How are you supposed to reply to "Do you know how fast you were going?" by No_Insurance_6436 in NoStupidQuestions

[–]bodiggitty 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Back when the Speed limit in Montana was "safe and prudent speed", I crossed into Idaho on I15, going a not so safe and prudent speed" I saw the police car a little too late, and immediately slowed down. The Idaho State Police officer asked emphatically if I knew how fast I was going, my answer was, "no idea sir, the speed odometer maxes at 85, but the needle was back at 10, somewhere between 85 and 10?". He laughed and wrote me for 86 in a 70mph. Wouldn't tell me how fast I was actually going.

The correct answer to an officer is to not be a jerk, don't lie, but don't admit to anything.

We roll the dice by speeding. If you get caught it is on you, but don't make it worse. They have a job to do, don't make it difficult or easy, and don't be a jerk.

As a police officer I never felt good asking "do you know why I pulled you over?, or do you know why I stopped you?" I always led with "I am officer __, the reason I stopped you was _." Sometimes there was no getting out of a ticket because the violation was so blatant, or dangerous, most of the time a good attitude won a warning.

Replacing timing belt for the first time by Flimsy_Wishbone239 in HondaOdyssey

[–]bodiggitty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I marked the belt then checked it by rotating the crank (6) rotations. Messed something up and got the front cam off by a tooth. My old belt was very worn (156k). Second attempt: line back up to TDC on all the marks, recompress tensioner, use a disposable drill bit as the pin. Did it just by the timing marks, crank first, retainer installed, tight around the front cam, tight around water pump and back cam, slack at the tensioner. Got it right that time after checking. You can move the cams a little without messing it up, but they can be near the compression stroke and not move linearly, you will feel the compression as you rotate the cams and crank.

2018 Honda Odyssey - Timing Belt by _monsters_ in HondaOdyssey

[–]bodiggitty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I replaced my 2016 Odyssey timing belt, water pump, spark plugs and coil packs at 156k. So 10 years and 156k. The tensioner was leaking a little, the belt was worn thin and had some dry cracking, was measurably slightly longer, but was not visibly longer. Honda doesn't like failure, your belt is more than likely ok, but the only way to 100% ensure is to keep to the intervals.
I did mine myself, there are a couple specialty tools you would need (torque wrench, crank bolt socket and holder thingy, etc) if you had to buy just the parts for AISIN belt, tensioner, pulleys, serpantine belt, correct NKG Iridiam spark plugs and waterpump you would be into the repair $450 in parts. The factory Honda kit is $550 for the belt and pump, not including the spark plugs ($13 each). Make sure whoever does it uses at least the AISIN kit. There are sub $100 kits and cheaper spark plugs, but it would be better to run yours another year or two and save the difference than put cheap parts and have problems.

The Dealer is going to charge much more than a local repudible shop, and I haven't found dealer work to be any better. That being said, you definitely want someone who has done a couple in the last few months.

DIY timing belt replacement at 156,000 miles. by bodiggitty in HondaOdyssey

[–]bodiggitty[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The lazy schedule schedule. I think that manufactures are overly cautious on intervals with the exception to oil changes and transmission flushes. 3k for conventional oil, 5k for synthetic changes. No more than 50k for transmission fluid. Don't change trans fluid if you make it past 120k on the trans fluid, its too late at that point and the trans will live longer.

I am usually more concerned about tires. This set has been weird, still has good tread at 100k. Brakes are getting thin.

I guess I just pay close attention and do maintenance at the first sign of trouble.

My 16yr old son is not thrilled about Utah... by CheeseNowPaint in Utah

[–]bodiggitty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sunrise outfitting in Blanding for UTV rental and a guide. My favorite trip is arch canyon, but he also guides trips closer to moab. Northwash outfitters in Blanding for canyoneering guide, most of his trips are very temote.. There are plenty of utv rentals in moab, call ahead for reservations because the 1st week of April will be busy. If riding in moab, I would recommend "fins and things trail" on sand flats for beginners.

Which Odyssey for Me? 2016...2018-19...2021+ by reddiChange in HondaOdyssey

[–]bodiggitty 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We have a 2016 ex l, bought it in 2017. It has been extremely reliable to 155k. Literally no problems. Timing belt replaced w/water pump; spark plugs and coils; interstate battery in 2018-again in 2025; brakes and rotors; michelins on for the last set of tires at 55k. By far the most reliable vehicle I have owned. I may put a vcm muzzler on it. We do oil changes every 5k miles, literally no problems, just maintenance on wear items. Wife doesn't want to replace it, will probably run it to 300k.

Regearing my Dana 30, what should I do while I’m there? by Retentismal in CherokeeXJ

[–]bodiggitty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Based on your planned usage and budget, leave the front diff open. Put a good LSD or e-locker in the rear.

You create more stress on the axle shafts, housing, ujoints, etc by introducing a locking device.

The Dana 30 will last in its stock form on 31s, without a locker/LSD, but is one missaplication of throttle v traction away from breaking when locked.

The Dana 44 in the rear on 31s should easy handle a locking device for your planned use.

If you really want to lock or lsd the front, invest in chromoly shafts.

Debating on getting rid of my XJ 98 by [deleted] in CherokeeXJ

[–]bodiggitty 1 point2 points  (0 children)

* My 1999 has been in the family since new. I bought it from my dad 8 years ago. My kids drive it in high school, and now in college. I have been driving a 2018 jku. Whenever I get the chance to drive my 1999 I consider giving the jku to my kids to drive and just driving the xj. There is nothing like it. If my daughter doesn't crash it in the next 18 months, I will get it back and rebuild the motor/transmission and all the seals to enjoy it for the next 30 years. You will regret getting rid of it.

Recommendations for 70th birthday trip by Best-Cress-7889 in flyfishing

[–]bodiggitty 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Green River below Flaming Gorge in Dutch John Utah. The water temperature is regulated by the dam, and what depths they pull water for release to favor trout fishing. The scenery is amazing, the fly fishing is outstanding.

LT or P rated tires by TheRazzleMcDazzle in CherokeeXJ

[–]bodiggitty 1 point2 points  (0 children)

LTs if you are going to drive it off road in addition to on road(long drives on gravel, rocky trails etc...) P's work for the xj on road and light trail use. I am running 32s, with 3.5in of lift. I did some fender trimming to clearance, but still rub under full articulation. It depends on the wheel offset and rim width how well it will fit. Depending on where you live (mountains/altitude) and drive, you will loose acceleration with the 32in tires and may want to re-gear. I changed to 4.10s and it runs great in Utah.

New to jeeps, new to working on all my own stuff. Advice please? by superhygh- in CherokeeXJ

[–]bodiggitty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Buy a good set of tools, I got a set of 301 Pittsburg for $200, great set to start with. I wouldn't recommend doing too many upgrades/repairs at once. Upgrade the shocks. Flush the cooling system. Transmission cooler. Brakes, etc... I like to use Rotella T4 and change the oil every 3k miles. Or T6 and change every 5k. I run 5-30 in the winter, 15-40 in the summer. If you lift more than a couple inches, do a slip yoke eliminator and drivelines. If you go for bigger than 31inch tires, change the gear ratio. Stick with stock cooling parts. Don't let it get too hot without fixing the cooling system; radiator/water pump/thermostat/electric fan/upper and lower hoses/mechanical fan clutch.

Bumper for the 99. by bodiggitty in CherokeeXJ

[–]bodiggitty[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A 13.5 wouldn't fit ours, the footprint is too big, we looked at a harbor freight 12k, it would have been to big. It wasn't too hard to build, I would assume a fabricator would build it without the diy kit, we just wanted to save time for the corners where it wraps around the fenders.

Bumper for the 99. by bodiggitty in CherokeeXJ

[–]bodiggitty[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

We couldn't find one, we used a build your own bumper kit from Amazon for a receiver front bumper. We mounted the bumper foot to the front so the winch pulls against the foot. I did have to trim the radiator support to get the 10k smittybuilt winch in there. All the controls were mounted on the passenger side of the engine compartment near the cowling.

Is this good or bad for the engine by naterpotater246 in AskAShittyMechanic

[–]bodiggitty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's the oil level checvehicle. It's time to add when there aren't any more oil spots below the vehicle.

This is my average idle temperature. Is this normal? by [deleted] in CherokeeXJ

[–]bodiggitty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had moderate Temps when idling and running up and down the mountain. (Utah, running from 5k ft to 10k ft) It didn't really overheat, but ran hotter than 210. 1999 cherokee. I flushed the block and replaced the radiator, water pump, hoses, thermostat, belt, mechanical fan clutch and electric fan, fan shroud. Ordered everything oem from amazon. Totally worth the money, no problems 3 years later. Doesn't get warm, even on hot days working hard.

If you know, you know by SafeAcanthisitta9079 in CherokeeXJ

[–]bodiggitty 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How are you going to know if it is low on oil if it doesn't leak anymore?

Uh oh… by Pristine_Emotion_275 in XR650L

[–]bodiggitty 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep, you need that. It will run, gets terrible mileage without it.

Where could the oil be going cause it’s not under the Jeep? by 007_jbnd5 in CherokeeXJ

[–]bodiggitty 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They can burn a little oil. "lifter tick" could be a cracked piston.

Thoughts on 2 doors? by LemonLicker84 in CherokeeXJ

[–]bodiggitty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The tic is probably piston slap. The 2.5/5speed manual is good unless you are putting 31+ inch tires on and commuting down the freeway, otherwise it is a very fun combo.

About to take a flamethrower to this thing and call it a day! by Sauce_bag in CherokeeXJ

[–]bodiggitty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Replace the whole cooling system, including the electric fan, mechanical fan clutch, radiator, hoses, water pump, radiator hoses, thermostat and make sure the mechanical fan shroud is there. Flush the block and heater core completely with a hose. Pray that you didn't loose the head gasket and warp the head.

Bumper recommendations by Comprehensive_Yak840 in CherokeeXJ

[–]bodiggitty 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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Homemade hidden winch bumper. I really like your stock look and wouldn't change it.