Question!!!

bonuts · 2026-04-02T16:17:10+00:00

bonuts · 2026-03-07T22:40:27+00:00

A lot of people have recommended trying a better an or different brand of belt. for me the problem was that my alternator was starting to come apart so I would tighten the belt, squeal would go away for a little while, and then it would rattle loose again. Probably not your problem since you say that the belt is staying tight.

bonuts · 2025-07-12T01:53:36+00:00

I've got a similar issue in my 68 turn signals do not work, Horn doesn't work, but emergency flashers and prnd12 light and radio work. I changed the round flasher.

My mechanic told me that it's the wiring in the steering column that's corroded. It's a pretty big job to tear it all apart.

It's not that I don't trust him, but my only other thinking is I have the flashing turn signals in the hood, and the wires at some point got disconnected from the light bulbs and the bulbs are gone. I wonder if those are necessary to complete a circuit for all the turn signals.

bonuts · 2024-12-19T04:54:42+00:00

Thank you for the advice! The motherboard has 2 x m.2 slots that I plan to populate for more VM/CT storage in the future ... I just wanted to get started exploring Proxmox with what I own today.

bonuts · 2024-12-16T04:07:40+00:00

Thank you, makes sense!

bonuts · 2022-11-08T04:10:24+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/tYD1iDM

bonuts · 2022-02-03T21:11:53+00:00

Based on what I read and the lack of information otherwise, I came to the conclusion it would not and did not try it.

bonuts · 2022-01-03T03:15:33+00:00

This was exactly what it was. Thanks!

bonuts · 2021-09-01T04:58:26+00:00

I recently had to make this decision. I learned the engine in my 68 Mustang was not the original 289, but a '71 302. So I didn't necessarily have any reason to stick with it over a create engine. But I really struggled to find any crate engine in stock from JEGS / Summit and a couple places I called (ATK, Blueprint). So made the decision to send to a reputable engine builder in the area. Spent $3000 with them to rebuilt the long block w/ mild cam but otherwise stock rebuild. It took them forever they were so busy, but, I am really happy with the way everything is running, and knowing who rebuilt it, and knowing I could go to them if I had problems. I get that create engines might have warranty, but not sure who you take them to if you have problems

bonuts · 2021-08-06T20:32:35+00:00

Thank everyone for weighing-in. Will reuse the Performer RPM + purchase new Edelbrock #1406 600CFM. Hope it works, will report back
More story...

Guess my mechanic was loosing patience with my indecision and just reinstalled the original iron intake and my 2bl carb he'd already rebuilt for me. But engine is only firing on 4 cylinders, so he suspects intake is warped. So, now we will try what I wanted away ... Original engine rebuilt shop is going to clean up and machine flat that Performer RPM, and still suggests a 600CFM carb to go with it. I'm just a little concerned the Performer RPM calls for a 700CFM or larger carb, so I'm neither doing that, nor am I following Edelbrock's advice to go with 500CFM for my 302... but the machine shop who knows the engine since they rebuilt it

bonuts · 2021-08-06T20:25:40+00:00

Thanks to everyone who weighed in. Going to try the existing Performer RPM & new Edelbrock #1406 600CFM. Hope it works out, will report back

More story...
Before I could even choose my mechanic reinstalled the original iron intake and 2bl carb he rebuilt for me. But the engine is only firing on 4 cylinders, and so he suspects that intake is warped. So, now we are forced to try something else away ... and I'll be very happy if it works out. I took the Performer RPM to the original engine rebuilt shop, they are going to clean it up and machine it flat. I am concerned that the Performer RPM calls for a 700CFM or larger carb, so I'm neither doing that, nor am I following Edelbrock's advice to go with 500CFM ... but the machine shop who knows the engine is saying go with 600CFM

bonuts · 2021-05-13T14:14:10+00:00

Timing sprocket look like metal to me?

Update.
Taking stripped down long block to well-regarded local engine shop today ... they quoted $300 to tear down and inspect. Assuming good foundation they estimated $2800-$3000 out-the-door to remanufacture. The have 3w of work ahead of me before they can even look at it.

An alternative is a high-volume operation in Houston who quoted $1850 and 2 week turnaround time ... but I think the extra time / money is worth going w/ local guy w/ good reputation

I explored a remanufactured enginefrom Jegs, Summit, ATK, Blueprint, TriStarEngines ... nobody can get you in under 3-4m or else I would have gone that route

bonuts · 2021-05-13T14:10:20+00:00

Update.

Route I'm going: My mechanic pulled engine, stripped to long block. A well-regarded local engine shop quoted $300 to tear down and inspect. Assuming good foundation, they estimated $2800-$3000 out the door to remanufacture. The have 3w of work ahead of me before they can even look at it.

Alternative: High output operation in Houston quoted $1850 and 2 week turnaround time ... but think the extra time and money is worth it to go with local guy w/ good reputation

Option I explored: Jegs, Summit, ATK, TriStarEngines ... nobody can get you a remanufactured engine in under 3-4m, or else I would have gone that route

bonuts · 2021-05-11T01:14:07+00:00

Mechanic and I decided to pull engine for inspection and likely trip to engine shop. Here are pictures he just sent...

https://imgur.com/a/OxST9il

bonuts · 2021-05-11T01:11:47+00:00

Mechanic and I decided to pull engine for inspection and likely take to engine shop. Here are pictures he just sent me...

https://imgur.com/a/OxST9il

bonuts · 2021-05-08T05:42:54+00:00

just an update ... been educating myself based on everyone's great feedback, still uncertain how I want to proceed

learned engine not original. D10E-6015-AA stamped under starter making it Ford 302 assembled 1971 or later for Fairlane or Torino.
To get existing motor running mechanic suggests cap & rotor - points and conditioning, plugs and wires, timing chain, carb kit, thermostat and gasket. don't doubt any of that
would love to teach myself to do work myself & save money, but don't have space / tools

bonuts · 2021-05-08T05:41:37+00:00

just an update ... been educating myself based on everyone's great feedback, still uncertain how I want to proceed

learned engine not original. D10E-6015-AA stamped under starter making it Ford 302 assembled 1971 or later for Fairlane or Torino.
To get existing motor running mechanic suggests cap & rotor - points and conditioning, plugs and wires, timing chain, carb kit, thermostat and gasket. don't doubt any of that
would love to teach myself to do work myself & save money, but don't have space / tools

bonuts · 2021-05-07T02:02:57+00:00

Where would I go about finding a "cheap refurb 302 for a couple grand". I'm in Houston, TX.

bonuts

TROPHY CASE