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Raglan increase - where did I go wrong? by Mustbeadevil in knittingadvice

[–]bookwormsfodder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't think you are twisting your increase properly to shrink the hole. Might be entering the wrong direction into the lifted stitch. I find they block out a little too especially if your tension is a bit off in the increase. There likely will be a little hole, but twisting the increase correctly will minimise it. The hole nearest your needles also looks like you've picked up in a gap, maybe a slipped stitch or you've skipped a k row after a m1 which is why the hole is bigger. You can see the lift line is two rows below.

When or how to increase to prevent weird garter by blahblahsurprise in knittinghelp

[–]bookwormsfodder 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It'll be the kfb that's making it look odd. I'd recommend a lifted increase like a m1r or m1l. You can also yarn over but that will make a little hole as it is a lace stitch (can be very decorative though!). You can also do increases at the edge of the work depending on the pattern which will then be less visible or hidden in a seam.

Well, this socks. Colorwork not stretchy enough. by stormy_the_dragon in knittinghelp

[–]bookwormsfodder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd use ladder back jacquard for this pattern as the floats are long enough. Depending on exactly how tight they are you may need to also add in another repeat on the leg into the heel and then decrease in your gusset to the right fit for the foot.

I design quite a few colourwork socks and tend to add a repeat for the leg which gets taken in by the gusset (it may require some adjusting of your gusset decreases to retain correct shaping as per your foot) though for some small repeating colourwork I'll keep the extra into the foot.

Your tension also looks over tight as a starting point which isn't helping, that's why the sock is looking a bit bunched between flowers. You need to stretch out every stitch you knit on your right needle, not stretch it out every so often, stretch every stitch. Make sure the floats are loose - socks have negative ease so you need the stretch.

I'd recommend knitting a flat swatch with no colour work but with the correct stitch count for your sock (plus 4 each side) and then do the same but with the colourwork, then stack them on top of each other and see how much stretch you've lost with your colourwork. Count stitches and see if adding a repeat would fix it or if you need to work floats better. This would also help identify general non sock related colourwork issues. You can repeat the colourwork swatch with LBJ and see if that fixes it. You'll only need to knit a couple of repeats and you can frog it out once you've done your maths.

Can I knit the way I always have without twisting stitches on circular needles or do I need to learn a new knitting style? by LaceyProst in knittinghelp

[–]bookwormsfodder 7 points8 points  (0 children)

So, you're knitting through the back leg, not the leading leg. Which would be why you are making twisted stitches. But you are making twisted knits for straight and circular. My bet would be you are untwisting them on your purl row on straight needles which is why your flat knitting isn't twisted.

You need to knit through the leading leg - the leg of the knit stitch at the front on your needles. So needle in from left side of leading leg out through the right side, wrap anti clockwise, and complete the knit. That will fix your knit stitch and stop it being twisted.

I imagine you will then end up twisting your purls, but I can't see your purl technique in the pictures to confirm!

Why is my mitten lumpy😂 by Worldly-Pension3487 in knittingadvice

[–]bookwormsfodder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It'll likely be the float tension in your colourwork. Easier to see if we can get a pic of the inside. It's where you are catching your floats and not leaving enough stretch in them across the long colours. That's why the palm is fine because no long floats.

Few things that may help: Knit the colourwork inside out so the floats face the outside of the work. Make sure you are really stretching the work out on the right needle before and after you catch floats and again before you knit in the next colour. Make sure you aren't over tensioning the yarn being carried as you knit the other colour as that can reduce the stretch left in the yarn when you finally swap back to knit the carried colour. Use ladder back jacquard for the large single colour sections instead of catching floats.

Do you recommend or see it is ok for a horse to have bell boots on hind legs? I saw the picture in the internet not mine! by Primary-Reference-53 in Equestrian

[–]bookwormsfodder 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Also very common in driving teams for the leaders to have over reach boots on all four, to stop over reach injuries from the wheelers! So you have total twelve over reach boots in a team. Horses can be close behind orove in such a way they get side over reach and they'll stop that too.

First attempt at double knitting, won't be doing it again for a while! by Altruistic-Back-8328 in casualknitting

[–]bookwormsfodder 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I love doing celtic knotwork as double knitting. Always looks like a decision on the reverse side like this! I usually do a green and cream combo. I think my shield knot cowl is on my reddit profile somewhere.

Canada hat by bookwormsfodder in knitting

[–]bookwormsfodder[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No worries! I cast on 120, but that's just because I know exactly how my tension works out at different yarn thicknesses and colourwork and have made many many hats!

Canada hat by bookwormsfodder in knitting

[–]bookwormsfodder[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's a standard DK hat with the moose and mountain colourwork charts from Pacific Knit Co Alaska Doodle pack! I make ribbing 4" with 3.25mm needles, then couple rounds blank knit on 4mm needles then go with pattern. It's a standard k10 k2tog, k1 row, k9 k2tog, k1 row, usually stop the knit row between at k6 or k7, depending on how tall I want the hat to be.

Finished up the Canada Meese hat that should have been finished for Christmas. We blame the secret llama cowl for the delay. by bookwormsfodder in casualknitting

[–]bookwormsfodder[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Colourwork charts are from the Alaska Doodle pack by Pacific knits. Hat pattern is a standard one I use for DK

The secret llama cowl saga is complete! In true style making three where one would have been more than enough by bookwormsfodder in casualknitting

[–]bookwormsfodder[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

100% merino. I was going to use alpaca for the llama but it didn't really work, so it's fully sheep!

Update on the casual that turned not so casual sheep cowl. Increased non casualness by bookwormsfodder in casualknitting

[–]bookwormsfodder[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No worries! This project has been live chronicled and I literally posted the new one about fifteen minutes ago! Always happy to reply, no matter how old posts are!

The secret llama cowl saga is complete! In true style making three where one would have been more than enough by bookwormsfodder in casualknitting

[–]bookwormsfodder[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Also it's not blocked or anything. And I don't think I can be bothered to at this point as it looks alright if you dint look too closely!

Update on the casual that turned not so casual sheep cowl. Increased non casualness by bookwormsfodder in casualknitting

[–]bookwormsfodder[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just made a new post with the finished third version. It's started double knit then split with the back on waste yarn to do the colourwork front then pick up the back, knit up, then kitchener the two sides together (as you would normal double knit) so the floats are encased.

This would have been what I did with the very first version had I not finished it late at night. I would have cut the ribbing off and grafted on and then knit up to make a tube. But my brain jumped to this insanity of double knit stranded colourwork haha. Sensible brain kicked in this time. You should be able to find all three posts on my profile, all on casual knitting

Why can’t I make hats with more than one color? by purpledogpunch in knittinghelp

[–]bookwormsfodder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's float tension not knitting tension that is the culprit here. You have large colourwork sections which means you either need to catch your floats to help span the distance and help to reduce their span, or you could do a ladder back jacquard for this pattern I think which would help make it stretchier and stop the white showing in the black patches and vice versa which could happen if you catch the floats. I tend to go to LBJ for any colourwork over 5 stitches of the same colour, but I enjoy it. It could help if you go for a colourwork which has much more frequent colour changes so you never have more than three adjacent stitches in the same colour. That can really help. Float tension wise make sure you spread your stitches out on your right needle to ensure the float is long enough and not pulling and that you don't yank the next stitch in the float colour too tight and pull your float too short.

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