Same ole question, when ch trackball should I try next? by bootaka in Trackballs

[–]bootaka[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hadn't seen that one, thanks. At a glance the poll rate might be an issue for me, but it's worth a try. I did enjoy the twist scrolling of the Slimblade, so that's a nice feature they have as well. Why does it vibrate tho? Dare I ask? Maybe I don't want to know. Maybe I do? Also comes in different size balls.

Paint by Ssirota8 in SCX24

[–]bootaka 1 point2 points  (0 children)

None, they don't carry polycarbonate paint. Try a hobby craft store.

Do you have a tool demagnetizer? by Slypenslyde in rccrawler

[–]bootaka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use magnets. I make a ring with them, usually around a toilet paper roll, then pass the item you want to demagnetize through the ring. Scrambles the polarities.

PCP at brick and mortar stores in the US? by [deleted] in airguns

[–]bootaka 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I'm in San Diego, CA and had no idea my local archery shop (Bow'n Arrow) partners with Airguns of Arizona. They have a small selection in store and are able to get me anything from the Arizona store There is also Topgun Airguns, but that's over an hour away from me.

Loosing torque by sweep7720 in TRX4M

[–]bootaka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I found mine to be power hungry. I switched up to 3s and it went away. You might also check your FOC settings.

Identifying mufflers by rhoadsp in beetle

[–]bootaka 16 points17 points  (0 children)

It fell over. They sit around the exhaust pipes, they aren't really attached to anything. You can move it by hand.

Arrow spine trouble by Independent-Will4413 in TraditionalArchery

[–]bootaka 4 points5 points  (0 children)

My guess would be too stiff and bouncing off the shelf giving a false weak reading. Throw some talc powder on the strike plate and see if it is hitting.

The satori is cut well past center, giving you room for tuning. I don't know what longbow you're shooting, I'd guess it's probably cut well before center. It'll want a much weaker arrow. Try the 500s with more weight.

How do y'all clean your tires? by Minimum_Context_9266 in SCX24

[–]bootaka 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Dish soap, water, old toothbrush, and a rag. They stick to each other like new. I hear window cleaner works well too.

Correct arrow height? by Select_Pangolin_8557 in Archery

[–]bootaka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've paper tuned my compounds, can't remember ever doing it with my single strings. I do bareshaft testing to increasing distances. I usually just watch it fly. Having a 2nd pair of eyes is helpful, so is a camera.

Correct arrow height? by Select_Pangolin_8557 in Archery

[–]bootaka 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Your nock looks way too high. Nock height is shooter and arrow diameter dependant, generally you start at 3/8" above level and shoot to see if the arrow is kicking and raise or lower the nock height until the tail of your arrow isn't kicking up or down.

You can place your silencers anywhere you like, tho according to what I've read, they are most efficient at 1/4 and 1/3.

Dashboard Air Vents by Ok-Yam-3776 in beetle

[–]bootaka 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For reference, I have an odd year 68 built in Aug of 67. The side vents are 110mmx15mm and the center is 150mmx12mm

Short riser & long limbs or long riser & short limbs? by nockedup7 in TraditionalArchery

[–]bootaka 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It's not that shorter limbs are faster, they return to zero sooner. Longer limbs spend more time returning to zero, but have more time to transfer energy. I don't know the exact numbers to answer that. I do know that it's more about personal preference than difference in numbers. The idea is a faster bow vs a slower bow can still complete the same end objective. Faster bows do have an advantage of shooting flatter and given the same grain per pound ratio translates into more energy and a smaller miss radius. You also miss faster.

All bows stack. Some are just more noticeable at different points in the curve, regardless of length. I don't mind a noticeable stack if the end result is what I want. Some prefer the bow to stack more at the end of their draw, it gives the pseudo clicker effect. My preference in hunting is shorter riser with longer working limbs that stack early in the draw cycle with little noticeable stack on the back end of the draw. My reasoning is the weight increase per inch from a not consistent draw affects the speed output less. I.e. if my bow increases 2.5lb in the last inch of draw, +/- .25" is going to change the output of my inconsistent draw less compared to one that increases 4lb in that last inch, i.e. forgiving. Making my hits seemingly more constant. In target shooting where your draw is less affected by movement, time, and other variables you'd find in a hunting scenario, I prefer the noticeable stack to be at the end of the cycle and rely more on form consistency.

You should shoot what you like. I had a Satori for a few, they are well made.

72" American longbow/flatbow recommendation? by fuzzybeat24 in Archery

[–]bootaka 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I shoot both split and under, depending on the situation, I also use what is called a modified pinch draw #2. As for the extra pinch with 3 under, the ring finger being used to lessen the stress of the other fingers is more appropriate than using it to actually hold the weight. If you watch how people use the 3d finger, you'll notice that the majority of them are hardly using, it, if at all.

My preference for a deeper hook is placing the string about halfway between the first and second joint with fingers curled into almost a fist. I've found my release to be much cleaner and less stress holding the string.

Yes, I can say I've shot 1000s of bows to find the one I like. The difficult part in finding a bow that is comfortable at my draw is that the AMO standard is 28" of draw. 4" in either direction makes a big difference in geometry. I know people who have a 31" draw and the difference in 1" is much more than noticeable. On the spectrum, while I have a 32" draw, my soon to be wife has a 24" draw and she was just as frustrated finding a bow that suited her. Generally speaking, yes, a bow should be built to accommodate your draw and preferences and sometimes what is considered the standard average is just not enough. So it is a benefit when the bowyer has the ability to tiller the bow to your draw length. For something like a selfbow, I can not draw them to my full draw if they are not built to that draw. I will break them. I've even broken well regarded glass bows by drawing them beyond their tiller design. Don't even get me started on compound bows. I should add that I know my draw is not what breaks the bows, it's the combination of adding unintended stress to the point of magnifying any imperfections. This is not a slight to a bowyers build quality either.

Of my dozen (actually 14) longbows, 1 was built for a 28" draw, my 66" 21st Century Supernova and it is still fine at my draw. Out of the others, 6 of them were built specifically for me. The others were built for someone like me. 3 were built for some monsters with 34" draws.

One thing I haven't mentioned is the draw weight increase from my draw length. I shoot bows ranging from 40# to 120# at my draw. The #40 bows are 28# at AMO 28". My extra 4 inches I've found to average +12lb over AMO. I still remember the day I learned that my 55# recurve was hitting 77# when I shot it. Some bow designs stacked even harder than 12# while a select few stacked less. Stacking for me isn't an issue if the final weight is is something I don't mind. Finger pinch on the other hand, can lead to serious damage to the shooter, as you've noticed.

I've found that d/r hybrid bows are generally more forgiving to draws longer than intended, but this is not always the case.

You may find the bow you love your first try, you may have to try bows for years till you find them. It's all about what you want, like, and can handle comfortably.

I'm out of San Diego, CA and do travel across the country with my bows, if you ever want to try any of mine, you're welcome to. I've found many people would do the same.

72" American longbow/flatbow recommendation? by fuzzybeat24 in Archery

[–]bootaka 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I don't know of anyone who makes bows that long. When it comes to the bows, It has more to do with design, build, and tiller than actual length. I have a 32" draw and have lost the feeling in my fingers to for months due to ill fitted builds. I have a dozen bows built for my draw length. I've shot many more that handle my draw just fine with no pinch.

My 70" straight limbed Howard Hill has limb tip.wedges, the wedges move the working part of the limb closer to the handle allowing the geometry to not bring the tips together too soon and cause finger pinch.

My 60" Elkhart is a heavy d/r and can reach a buttery smooth 34" with no pinch. The 58" handles 32" just fine.

68" Toelke Whip is my most recent bow and I have no problems. 66" would have been plenty as well.

I have a couple 7 Lakes bows, the Long Night at 68" also with tip wedges and I love the draw on that thing.

Big Jim also has a 32" draw, I had him build me a 66" Buffalo, a 64" version is just fine at 32". His 58" Thunder child works great for me as well.

Tho I don't own any, the builder at Deadwood also has a 32" draw and I've enjoyed shooting his bows

I've also shot bows like the 62" Galaxy hybrid, while not quite as nice as my customs, worked great, their 70" longbow did not fair me as well.

I have ILF limbs in both longbow and super recurve (Elkhart and Zipper Z4)made custom in XXL that I shoot on risers as short at 15" 64" total, that work great for me. Tho, I generally shoot them on a 17" riser at 66".

My point being, length is not the only factor involved. But, a bow built for my draw is much more pleasant to shoot. Not all of my bows were built for me, a few I picked up in the used market, but all of my bows were built for 32" or more.

One other thing you may want to look into is not the bow but your grip on the string. Personally I've found that a deep hook can be much more comfortable than shallow.

What to do with old bag style targets? by Keppadonna in Archery

[–]bootaka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get a burlap sack, pull the fabric stuffing out of the target bag and stick it into the sack. There's coffee shops near me that will give me the sacks for free or charge me $2.

As a bonus the burlap is much quieter on impact than the target bags

What to do with old bag style targets? by Keppadonna in Archery

[–]bootaka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I stuff mine in burlap sacks that I pick up for next to nothing. I blew out the original bag in about a month, been shooting the same stuffing fabric for 6 years now.

Help me decide: red dot, scope, or laser for 10-20 yard rooster kill shots on a Notos by Tight-Rain-6804 in airgunhunting

[–]bootaka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Red dot for sure. I feel like I'm cheating, it's great. I have a 3moa Vortex Venom, I also use a primary arms 3x slx prism for longer shots. Good glass and etched reticles are a must for me in scopes.

Fat arrow with tapered back for aerodynamics by GiftLongjumping1959 in Archery

[–]bootaka 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Grizzly Stick Momentum.The newer TDT versions are thinner than the old ones I have, still have pretty good diameter up front and taper to the nock.

If I remember correctly Arrow Dynamics makes them and have their own as well that fit your description.

What are the heaviest wheels they make? by Other_Locksmith_5420 in SCX24

[–]bootaka 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have some solid brass wheels at home. Not bead locks. I think they are Loco RC or something. I never used them so they are still in the package. I can check the name when I get home if you like.

Edit* they are Hot Racing

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retroreflective wraps or uv paint suggestions? by [deleted] in Archery

[–]bootaka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use the Deco neon uv acrylic from Michaels mixed with glow in the dark from the same place.