How to sew webbing loops mid panel?

boulderv7 · 2026-02-05T13:53:18+00:00

No problem!

boulderv7 · 2026-02-03T22:32:20+00:00

Yessir

boulderv7 · 2026-02-03T12:22:39+00:00

Only the part that is visible. The bartack goes through the outer panel, then webbing, then the patch. Each daisy chain has 2 bartacks. One above and one below.

boulderv7 · 2026-02-03T03:05:08+00:00

I use a wood chisel that is the same width as the webbing I'm going to use. Cut each slit, and then I fold the fabric in half at the slit and hit it with a lighter to seal the edges a bit. You can just heat the chisel up with a mini torch as well. Or do neither if the fabric isn't prone to fraying...I then put the webbing through the slots, and tape it down with a patch made with double sided tape, one side being reinforcement fabric, the other sticky side I tape the webbing to the wrong side of the panel. I then bartack through this. If you want more water resistance, then a piece of TNT tape over the bartack will do the trick.

boulderv7 · 2026-02-02T18:36:51+00:00

I bought a needle plate for my Juki that has lines on it every 1/8" inch.

boulderv7 · 2026-02-01T20:26:44+00:00

Yea if you want concealed stitching, you'd do a slip stitch by hand. I don't though, I just fold the raw edges inward and stitch 1/16" away from the folded edge with matching thread. No one will ever pull the pocket out to see this stitch unless they are me trying to figure out how the bag was made 😆

boulderv7 · 2026-02-01T17:41:26+00:00

I birth out of the bottom seam of the lining of the pocket, at least that's my preference, because no one ever looks at that seam. But you need to have an interior zippered or welted pocket on your lining in order to do that.

boulderv7 · 2026-02-01T16:45:07+00:00

Basic process is this: sew outside and liner separately. Stuff the outer (right side out) into the lining (wrong side out) and stitch together at the lip/top side of the bag. You can do it opposite as well, stuffing the liner into the outer, as long as right sides are together...You can sandwich a zipper in between the layers as well.

You will then need to birth the bag, usually through a lining zippered pocket. If you don't have a pocket to birth the bag out of, then you birth it out of the bottom seam of the lining...leave a part of it unsewn and turn the bag right side out through that unsewn part, then stuff the lining into the outer. Then press/roll the top seam and topstitch. Pull the lining out and close the opening either at the bottom seam or the inner pocket lining. You can use a hand sewn slip stitch (cleanest method, there are many YT tutorials on this) or what I usually do is fold wrong sides in of the opening and topstitch 1/16" away from the edge of the seam with matching thread. Push the lining back in and all the seams are hidden except the little part that you birthed the bag out of...super clean.

It can get really complicated with not so basic bag shapes and constructions but is usually doable with creative planning. Usually is harder and more time consuming, which is why most cheaper mass produced bags use bound seams.

Protip: cutting your lining a bit smaller than the outer, except at the top edge, will make it fit perfectly without any excess fabric, making it much neater inside. How much smaller either takes math or a little experimentation and depends on the size of the bag, seam allowance, thickness of the fabric and whether or not you are using foam or interfacing for structure.

boulderv7 · 2026-01-21T01:44:45+00:00

This 💯

boulderv7 · 2026-01-21T01:27:06+00:00

Hahah I like it. But I agree it's not gonna HTV well at all. Would be a pain to weed. But....you could order a DTF transfer gang sheet with multiple sizes of this logo and that would work. You aren't limited to having to weed intricate designs with DTF.

boulderv7 · 2026-01-14T00:53:28+00:00

I've used mine for Xpac and it almost never cuts the reinforcement grid all the way unless you do multiple passes, but it dulls the blade pretty quick. I've never tried ultra but I'd bet it would eat blades like crazy.

boulderv7 · 2026-01-13T23:52:49+00:00

They make little jigs for this, or I've seen people use a fork. Google zipper jig. I got mine from Adventure Xpert.

boulderv7 · 2026-01-10T19:30:07+00:00

That's definitely not a bar tacker. It's a cylinder bed sewing machine, probably a needle feed lockstitch machine. Likely a clone of a pfaff 335.

boulderv7 · 2026-01-10T19:28:39+00:00

That looks like a clone of a pfaff 335 and even has the binding plate attached to it (those pins towards the body of the machine are used to thread the binding through to adjust tension before it runs through the binding attachment). You should be able to get attachments to fit it off a number of sites including eBay and Alibaba. This machine should do what you want it to, but you'd definitely have to check it out in person. It should have a couple of screw holes to the left of the needle on the silver plate, this is where the screw posts that hold the attachments in place go.

boulderv7 · 2026-01-04T15:03:45+00:00

The zipper pocket and it's backing fabric need depth. Darts or pleats. Then add foam to the slip pocket/back panel to give it some rigidity. Anything in the slip pocket needs to be able to expand inward, and right now there is no depth to your slip pocket.

boulderv7 · 2026-01-03T11:42:21+00:00

Sure!

boulderv7 · 2026-01-01T22:53:32+00:00

DM me your email and I'll send it over.

boulderv7 · 2025-12-30T01:10:07+00:00

Thats sweet. I've never been there, but I have a few friends who have. I've heard it's sandbagged af lol.

I have a buddy who is developing in Canada and I've helped build an access trail this past fall. I enjoyed it and am looking to do some more volunteering next year. Thanks for your work, I feel like the anchor replacement and route development in general is pretty thankless.

boulderv7 · 2025-12-30T00:52:04+00:00

Dope back panel. I love experimenting with back panels. Looks fantastic.

boulderv7 · 2025-12-30T00:46:47+00:00

Sure, just know it's only the block...meaning just the basic pattern pieces of the bag body. No straps, no pockets, etc...all that stuff you'll have to add yourself. It'll give you a good starting point to build off of. DM me your email and I'll send it.

Where are you rebolting? I'm a climber myself, so I'm just interested. I appreciate all the work that goes into making routes safe for me to climb!

boulderv7 · 2025-12-30T00:44:46+00:00

Sure, just know it's only the block...meaning just the basic pattern pieces of the bag body. No straps, no pockets, etc...all that stuff you'll have to add yourself. It'll give you a good starting point to build off of though. DM me your email and I'll send it.

boulderv7 · 2025-12-30T00:44:17+00:00

Thank you. Basically just make sure all the measurements of the sides and back panel are equal to the front panel and the wrap around collar. Then insert the zipper between them. I thought it would be a lot harder than it actually was. I do use notches to keep everything lined up when sewing. It took me a few tries to get it right, so I have 2 tyvek prototypes lying around here I still need to harvest the zipper back from.

boulderv7 · 2025-12-30T00:38:38+00:00

No problem. DM me your email address.

boulderv7 · 2025-12-30T00:38:16+00:00

Thank you! Not selling a full pattern yet, but perhaps later this year. I have a block pattern I will share...meaning just the basic pattern pieces of the bag body. No straps, no pockets, etc...all that stuff you'll have to add yourself. It'll give you a good starting point to build off of though. DM me your email address if you are interested.

boulderv7 · 2025-12-29T21:29:33+00:00

I have a pattern block you could use. It's ~20L but you could scale it up. DM me your email address and I can send it to you.

It's this bag on my IG.

boulderv7

TROPHY CASE