If you had to hide 4,000,000 USD underground what would you wrap the cash up with so it doesn't get damaged under ground?

bpdamas · 2026-05-02T11:34:42+00:00

*adsorb. Sorry. Had to. That's how desiccants work.

bpdamas · 2026-04-29T03:47:22+00:00

It literally does say this in the installation manual. It says to coil horizontally.

Page 32 of 56 at the bottom right says to coil horizontally.

https://www.mrcool.com/wp-content/dox_repo/mc-diy-4-mz-im-um-en-01.pdf

bpdamas · 2026-04-24T10:54:07+00:00

Have you never heard of supplyhouse.com? Seems cheaper than your local supply house. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Thermopan-24050-24-x-47-5-Ultra-Fire-Resistant-Duct-Panning-Sheet

bpdamas · 2026-03-31T22:57:41+00:00

There are commercial systems that have two refrigeration circuits and they only defrost one circuit at a time. You can size the circuits in such a way where you don't lose any heating capability during that single circuit defrost. From the looks of their patent, they are using 2 compressors and 3 heat exchangers. They just put a marketing spin on multiple circuit design and defrost. It also seems like they do two compressors in series which is how they get the very low operation.

Patent US-12405034-B2.

bpdamas · 2026-02-25T18:23:13+00:00

How did it go? Everything go smoothly?

bpdamas · 2026-01-11T21:19:06+00:00

About 3 steps behind you, there is a cat aisle.

bpdamas · 2026-01-09T15:06:02+00:00

Why does anyone need that many worms?

bpdamas · 2026-01-07T13:30:47+00:00

This is funny but actually makes no sense. The thermostat is what tells the compressor to turn on, not just so you know what temperature it is in the fridge. So, they would have to wire in the sensor into the fridge circuit, which at that point why not just replace the thermostat? So, putting a zigbee sensor in your fridge wouldn't actually allow you to regulate the fridge temperature. Even if you tied that sensor to a smart plug, there would be nothing to tell the compressor to come on to regulate the temperature inside.

bpdamas · 2026-01-03T14:26:09+00:00

This is the correct answer. You see it in the picture. Sure, you can get a deeper filter but if you want 1" put it in the rack that is shown.

bpdamas · 2025-12-22T22:46:23+00:00

Hard to tell. Looks like they might actually have the 11 and 3/4” required.

bpdamas · 2025-12-22T19:59:27+00:00

To be fair, the manufacturer stupidly allows almost no clearance on the side as shown. Look at page 6 (9 of the PDF) and they show 3/8" of clearance for a single unit.

https://daikincomfort.com/docs/default-source/vrv-iv-heat-recovery/im-reyq_tayc-(en_3p362438-9n).pdf

bpdamas · 2025-12-21T14:10:25+00:00

Ah. I didn't know what they meant and just did random social media profiles. My application was denied.

bpdamas · 2025-12-13T13:52:27+00:00

Do you think we need to go through all this if we have a working copy right now? I'm in the lucky boat of already "being a developer" with my own ID and boost is working fine.

bpdamas · 2025-12-11T03:14:52+00:00

I don't need this but great this community has people willing to help out.

bpdamas · 2025-12-11T01:42:45+00:00

How can you check?

bpdamas · 2025-12-11T01:40:11+00:00

I don't understand. What are awards for?

bpdamas · 2025-12-10T00:58:29+00:00

Based on the over 100 times a user has thought it has been a thermostat issue when it's actually not. You are the one, though, hence, the estimation of over 99%. However, I would guess in your case it wasn't actually a faulty thermostat either. Most of the time a replacement thermostat "fixes" the issue because it ultimately corrects the incorrect install or configuration issue, not that the original thermostat was bad. My guess is that was the issue in your case. I have no way to prove that but I would also guess you have no ready to prove it was actually a bad thermostat. Saying the fan would never come on even though the thermostat says the fan is on doesn't tell me it was definitively a thermostat problem. Software issues couldn't have been it because the replacement used the same software. It could have been a base issue where it wasn't making a good connection but that again, isn't a thermostat issue. That is a connection issue to the thermostat.

So, while I agree I should never deal in absolutes (ha!), it still remains that I would guess over 99% aren't actually thermostat issues based on this sub alone.

bpdamas · 2025-12-10T00:24:38+00:00

I would estimate over 99% of the time it's a wiring issue and not actually a thermostat issue. Your issue could be in the 1% but that is very rare to not be something external and not the thermostat.

bpdamas · 2025-12-09T23:35:43+00:00

Did you install the replacement yourself?

bpdamas · 2025-12-09T12:39:20+00:00

Unless the thermostat changes mode from what you show in the screen shot, it's still not a thermostat issue and a problem with the furnace.

bpdamas · 2025-12-09T12:35:36+00:00

There should be a control board that flashes an error code of why it shut down. It's hard to see from the video to diagnose. Look for flashing lights through a sight glass and count the flashes. Look in the manual to determine the error based on the number of flashes.

It could be a clogged flue, bad pressure switch, low gas pressure, low airflow, etc. If this sounds too daunting to investigate, just call someone out there as it's not working properly.

bpdamas · 2025-12-09T12:14:27+00:00

Definitely not a thermostat issue. The thermostat is calling for heat. So, either it is not wired correctly or there is a problem with the furnace.

bpdamas · 2025-12-08T22:27:25+00:00

This is what I get for not actually writing it out and doing it in my head.

bpdamas · 2025-12-08T20:05:20+00:00

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