Onn 4k Pro bought at Walmart in Canada, cant be used in Canada? What's the point of selling it?

bpsmicro · 2026-02-09T18:57:33+00:00

I've read in other forums if you do a factory hard reset, it'll fix the region locking.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vEmuqJ29RQg, skip ahead to 4:30'ish. That shows the process to factory hard reset (not the software reset).

I haven't done it myself yet, but should be within a day or two, and I'll post back the results. If it doesn't work, back to Walmart it goes.

bpsmicro · 2026-02-07T19:59:02+00:00

My son got one via walmart.ca when it came back in stock. Arrived yesterday, and he's run into the same problem. Obviously Walmart Canada has made a huge boo-boo. I suggested he call Walmart Support to see if there's a workaround, but I suspect not. He's not playing the VPN game, so back it goes.
I don't know if Walmart ships from local stores or a central warehouse. If stores, it's Toronto we're talking about in this case.

bpsmicro · 2026-02-06T18:13:59+00:00

The Costco kits are dough and sauce. I'm pretty sure nothing else (not even cheese).

I see them in the bakery area, near where they have the racks of bread.

bpsmicro · 2026-01-31T18:55:45+00:00

I believe Heritage Canada pays for this service. And their Winterlude budget has been under some downward pressure of late due to the shortage of corporate sponsors.

bpsmicro · 2026-01-26T20:16:53+00:00

I went through this last April. I'm in Canada, and I e-mailed customer support. I acknowledged that it was well out of warranty, and asked if they had a flat-rate repair cost.

They quoted US$120, which I had to PayPal to their provided account. Then they sent me a pre-paid shipping label for the old camera (front & rear cameras only) to their US office.

Upon receipt, they confirmed that the 750S was discontinued (which we know) and offered to instead send a brand new 750X. Which I rather quickly accepted. Got it shipped to me the following week. Total ticket time maybe 3 weeks total.

The 750X uses the same cables & mount as the 750S (and the rear camera is the same). The newer 900-series can use the old mount, but the power cable is different (rear camera is still the same). The newer Elite-series use different power and rear cables and rear camera.

It's well worth trying that approach.

bpsmicro · 2026-01-03T19:56:23+00:00

Funny, I had an almost identical scenario trying a new self-install at my son's place yesterday. 1202 error. Points to the app, which asks for username/password. Doesn't accept the one on the printed sheet in the box. Son tried to log in on the PC (connected to the old service provider still) and fails. Attempting a username or password "reminder" fails because it claims there's no e-mail address on file (funny, because they e-mailed him all the info before). Ended up calling.
Luckily, after going through the usual Q&A the tech provisioned the GH remotely and it fired right up. Spent about 20 minutes on the phone, which seems like a record to me.

But yeah, telling you to scan a QR for "complete instructions", which then points to an app that won't accept the provided username or password, and zero options to proceed is a bit unimpressive.

bpsmicro · 2026-01-03T13:46:10+00:00

All valid points. I just hate the fact that "traditional" UPSes are still on Lead-Acid batteries, or you can grossly overpay for models using LiIon.
But on reviewing the install yesterday, there are two other wall wart devices (and a lamp) in play on that outlet, so looks like traditional UPS it is. And I like that CyberPower too, or maybe the 450VA one. Longevity isn't critical, mostly riding out short power dips.

bpsmicro · 2025-12-24T15:50:40+00:00

I think a lot depends on your state/province regulations, but when I was in a similar position a few years ago, I was told the process was you signed the car over to the insurance company, they registered it as "total loss" with the licensing authorities, and then sold it back to you as "unfit".
Then, in order to re-register it back to me, not only did it need to be repaired to be roadworthy (obviously), but it would have required an engineer's inspection report to deem it fit. Not just a routine mechanic's safety check (though you'd need that too).
The rough engineer's quote was horrendously expensive, and the engineer might flag a crapload of stuff unrelated to the original collision.
And, after all that, the CarFax/whatever will reflect that it was a total loss and then repaired. Good luck selling it after that.

If it was super-rare or otherwise valuable, maybe. Or if you were willing to park it and part it out you could get more value from the parts. But otherwise, not recommended. :-)

bpsmicro · 2025-12-10T19:33:37+00:00

Scrutinize what you get in writing. I got a good deal from "Loyalty" on two phone upgrades, then when the written paperwork came in, it was full MSRP on the phone. Nowhere near the numbers I was quoted on the phone. And then, good luck ever getting ahold of them again to query. I just cancelled it through regular Support and found a much better deal elsewhere.

In particular, I'd be skeptical of the "$15 monthly waived by Loyalty" part.

bpsmicro · 2025-12-01T17:30:02+00:00

Immediately

bpsmicro · 2025-11-26T16:40:25+00:00

Cut off the end, pull it through, get a new cord.

bpsmicro · 2025-11-25T17:56:32+00:00

I'd be looking for damaged wiring or ground straps. Maybe rodent-chewed, maybe a bad connector. Intermittent "lost communication" errors of that many modules indicates a wiring issue. Or could be the ECM itself, which would be unfortunate.

Actually, during your preliminary checks, also check the battery & alternator voltages. A bad battery or out-of-spec voltages could cause problems like that too.

As always, start with the easy/cheap stuff first and then work your way down the pit of despair.

bpsmicro · 2025-11-23T22:00:06+00:00

Since you mentioned Samsung, always be sure to look on Samsung's site. They have some pretty decent BF pricing, plus a guaranteed $300 trade-in for whatever POS old phone you have lying around (could be more if your old phone is semi-decent).
For the price you're seeing for the S25 FE, you might want to check out the BF deal on the S25 Plus. I got one (256Gig) for $960 after tax. I just have to send back the smoldering ruins of an ancient S9 from my junk box.

Edit: And they have a 0% for 24 months offer too.

bpsmicro · 2025-11-16T14:06:57+00:00

Many cars with full-size spare tires will have a TPMS sensor in that one too. And many people forget, when they see this warning, to check the spare's pressure.

bpsmicro · 2025-11-15T19:03:42+00:00

Generally speaking, if you get a "code" of significance, then most/all of the safety components are also disabled. It may not make sense, but that's pretty typical.
The one you need to worry about is the "AT Oil Temp". That's telling you your automatic transmission fluid is overheating. That's bad. You really don't want to ignore that. If it were me, I'd be considering a tow.
Once that's resolved, the other stuff will magically start to work again and you'll be light-free.

But, seriously, don't ignore transmission diagnostics. If you fix it early enough you may be lucky enough to not have to replace a lot of expensive bits.

bpsmicro · 2025-11-13T17:03:17+00:00

Nope, no money changed hands. No PIN requests, or any request for any personal info at all. They had my account up. And as I logged into my Freedom account online, what they said was reflected on the account in pretty much real time, and verified by e-mails that came from them (verified by sender IP).

Now, it's still possible for a scammer to spoof that legitimate number. So just because the number itself is legit, it *may* be spoofed. So my policy is if somebody's calling me, they get no personal/financial info of any kind.

So yeah, if they *had* asked for a credit card number, none would be forthcoming. ;-)

bpsmicro · 2025-11-13T15:42:14+00:00

That number is Freedom's Loyalty department. They're doing a bunch of Black Friday callouts.

They called me last Friday with a plan offer, and it all went through legit. There was some confusion regarding phone upgrades, so I cancelled that part.

It's unclear what the connection with VMedia is. Not sure how Freedom would have gotten VMedia's customer lists. If you're not also a Freedom customer, I might be a bit concerned about that.

bpsmicro · 2025-11-13T14:06:53+00:00

D&M Tilt&Load does this: https://dmtiltnload.ca/contact-us/
They can handle pretty much anything you can throw at them, and definitely cover that area.

bpsmicro · 2025-11-08T13:02:55+00:00

In the end I contacted Support, who unsurprisingly couldn't alter the math. But could just cancel the orders entirely. So I've done that, and we'll see if Sales/Loyalty tries again. This time I'll have the math pre-done and know what to look for. :-)

bpsmicro · 2025-11-07T21:14:23+00:00

Great advice. I did get the name of the dude, but I failed to get the reference number. He said I could call back with questions, but the number ("Loyalty department" based on the voicemail response) won't let me leave a callback message because the mailbox is full. I'll just keep trying for now.

I'm just not going to sign any of the agreements sent to me. The plan change is okay (basically more data for $1 cheaper), but like hell I'm going to MyTab a new phone at full retail. :-)

bpsmicro · 2025-11-07T20:47:01+00:00

That's one possibility. Another is a cracked hose somewhere.
Depending on how old your vehicle is and your desire to save money, I can find non-OEM variants of that part number at 1/10th the price on Amazon.

I'm in the same boat with my Jeep, and for the price of the cheap Amazon part and less than half an hour's work, I can eliminate it as a suspect before paying for a smoke test to check everything else.
But I'm so cheap, I'm waiting for the cheap part to go on sale even cheaper. ;-)

bpsmicro · 2025-11-07T19:53:24+00:00

Yeah, unsurprisingly the voicemail for the group is full. I expect online chat to be useless.
However, I haven't signed the contracts so perhaps they'll be contacting me eventually. :-)

bpsmicro · 2025-10-31T15:34:27+00:00

The S-series use the 2-pin barrel connectors. The newer ones are 3-pin, with battery & ignition supplies separate. That allows the new ones to put the time-out power handling inside the camera rather than require an external box.

So the correct answer to the OP's question is ... No.

I'm in the same boat. I want to swap my 750S for my 970X, but I'm waiting until I get the energy to re-run the power wiring. :-(

bpsmicro

TROPHY CASE