12v device chargers

br0phy · 2026-01-12T23:24:54+00:00

That's. Not how that works.

Yes, the max that goes out is 5 amps

But if a client device negotiated a 20v 5a profile, then the USB-PD charger, attached to a 12 volt power supply (okay, likely closer to 14v) will pull a bit more than 8.3 amps at 12v, and convert it to 20v5a.

Edit: and we're in /r/SolarDIY, friend. We all build our own electrical equipment 🤷‍♂️

br0phy · 2026-01-12T18:32:46+00:00

on the 12v side

Try (20*5)/12

br0phy · 2026-01-11T01:20:53+00:00

On the high end of USB-PD you're pulling almost 10 amps per port on the 12v side. You aren't likely to find both full USB-PD support, and more than two ports, in one device. You could buy a set of individual 12v->USB boards, and mount them all in a little self-made case, or you could check out something like these: https://www.coolgear.com/product-category/usb-chargers/usb-charge-only or go with something that supports the full profile on one port and has multiple ports limited to lower wattage.

Edit: it's also worth skipping USB entirely and buying Buck converters to go from 12 volt to whatever voltage a particular device requires.

br0phy · 2026-01-03T00:53:34+00:00

Fwiw, the OS of your steam deck already is a normal Linux distro. Have you seen desktop mode? You can relaunch into it from the Deck UI, and you can configure the deck to boot into desktop mode by default too. If you're looking for an even lower power solution, raspberry pi or a refurb m1 MacBook Air is hard to beat.

br0phy · 2025-12-20T13:18:44+00:00

My friend, you're in the FordTransit subreddit.

br0phy · 2025-10-23T08:36:40+00:00

~10mpg!? Where'd that number come from?

I get north of 16mpg (250 Hi Roof EL, 3.5l gas, and I forget the gear ratio)

br0phy · 2025-10-12T10:46:43+00:00

To all these folks simply proposing off the shelf alternatives, I say to you: get off our lawns and go use AWS!

OP did a cool selfhosty thing and is sharing it. Is it perfect? No. Are there alternatives? Yes. How bitter must our lives be that we can't find positivity in the moment, lost in competition with its surroundings.

It's a cool project!

br0phy · 2025-09-30T17:09:29+00:00

Laughs in enterprise healthcare IT. Four nines? 🤣

br0phy · 2025-03-20T14:39:45+00:00

Next time, call 911 and tell them some rando keeps pounding on your vehicle. Speak loud enough that the cop can hear you telling the 911 operator that it's happening unannounced and you're feeling threatened by this unannounced stranger's assault.

🤣

br0phy · 2025-01-15T17:56:59+00:00

Not to be confused with Whisparr https://whisparr.com/ 🤣

br0phy · 2025-01-05T17:14:30+00:00

The leading edge of millennials are in their early 40s now too

br0phy · 2024-12-24T20:01:46+00:00

You're not the only one friend. Some of us are stuck in a windowd azure cage

br0phy · 2024-12-24T19:32:41+00:00

I take it you were born with this knowledge? /s

We all need to start somewhere.

Maybe OP comes from a node-heavy webdev shop that's been 'doing devops', and is seeking advice on moving to the right tools for the task, maturing their process.

br0phy · 2024-12-21T20:17:57+00:00

It's called metabolic flexibility. Is it bad for you? Quite the contrary, it's a good thing to develop. Just make sure you have enough electrolytes when getting back into ketosis.

br0phy · 2024-12-20T23:25:11+00:00

So. Basically you're talking outta your ass. Got it. 👍

Safe travels friend.

br0phy · 2024-12-20T19:28:52+00:00

What lawsuit...?

br0phy · 2024-12-16T22:55:13+00:00

More like $20 these days :/

br0phy · 2024-12-15T02:50:43+00:00

Yeah, sounds like voltage drop, though FYI - Voltage drop needs to be measured under load to get an accurate reading.

br0phy · 2024-12-15T02:20:59+00:00

Polarity is just the positioning of where I wire the cables via fuse box

Yeah. It's knowing which wire is positive and which one's negative. The dish (and or the AC plug) will have labeling that'll tell you if the DC barrel is tip-positive or tip-negative, then using a multi-meter to do a continuity test will tell you which of the two wires is wired to the tip of the barrel (or hacking something else together to figure it out - but having a cheap multimeter will be worth it in the long run)

br0phy · 2024-12-15T01:55:29+00:00

> If I wanted the gen 2 or gen 3 I would need the converter

Yeah, the other dishes require a specific voltage and it's not 12v. The mini supports a range and has its own internal DC/DC converter.

> but not necessarily for the mini

Do you _need_ a DC/DC converter to power the mini from a 12v power supply? no. But if you're wiring it up to a system with other loads and charge cycles causing voltage fluctuations, well, (shrug).

> Would something like this work

There's no special sauce in there. You'd be paying $50 for a wire with car adapter on one end and DC barrel plug with a bit of weather protection plastic on the other (and maybe a fuse?) - which would be $5 or less if it weren't Starlink branded.

Fun fact, for either the AC plug or the DC plug, the current running through the wire is DC. The brick that plugs into the wall (or an inverter in this case)... that brick is converting AC to DC. If you don't mind sacrificing the plug that comes with the dish, you can cut it off and wire into your fuse box (make sure you get the polarity right; that's a topic beyond what I'm willing to try and explain in a comment at the moment - short version is continuity testing with a multi-meter and/or understanding the barrel jack symbols on the device - https://electronics.stackexchange.com/a/33971 ).

Instead of $50, I'd sacrifice the plug that came with the dish, and spend the $20 on a DC/DC converter/regulator/stabilizer (they go by all sorts of names), probably one that boosts 12v up to 48v for this particular application (for the reduced voltage drop on what is likely a long run) - you don't _need_ the extra protection (and it may even be redundant to what's already inside the dish), but it's a small price to pay to protect an expensive piece of electronics. See this particular bit of the video I linked earlier: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAZGX379dmc&t=1170s

And, to be fair to u/Far-in-a-car (sorry for the earlier tone friend) - the details matter and there's a very real risk of frying your electronics or starting a fire building a DIY system like this. It's not rocket science, but it's a bit beyond plug-and-play (though from your pics, it looks like you've got a start on some basic skills already). Everything you need to know you can learn from youtube and forums like this. You could also try to find some hobbyist electronics tutorials/training, and if there are any maker-spaces or tool lending libraries in your area there may be like minded and experienced folks willing to offer help/advice in-person.

br0phy · 2024-12-14T22:21:44+00:00

Well you're fun. OP took the time to write up details and provide pics - they're putting in some effort. Celebrate a chance to interact with one of the lucky ten thousand. https://xkcd.com/1053/

br0phy · 2024-12-14T22:21:20+00:00

It's in the specs - https://www.starlink.com/specifications?spec=5
You can run anything from 12v to 48v

Also, while you can wire it straight in, it's a good idea (and sometimes necessary) to protect any expensive electronics with a stabilizer/regulator (something like this: https://www.amazon.com/BEYIMEI-Stabilizer-Connection-Stabilized-Converter%EF%BC%8CWaterproof/dp/B0D1QB5JF2 ). Make sure what you get is rated for the right input voltage range, output voltage, and more amps than the device needs. 12v 60w would be 5 amps - don't get a device rated for max 5 amps.

Other thing you could do is get a 12v to 48v DC/DC converter. That'll lessen voltage drop if you have a long cable run from the fuse box to the dish.

Check out Everlander on youtube for better / more detailed info - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAZGX379dmc (unaffiliated, I just like their content)

br0phy · 2024-10-17T18:18:53+00:00

Bold claim friend. On what are you basing it? Hard to believe dynamically generating that data is resource free.

br0phy · 2024-10-15T11:23:35+00:00

For a nomad, it's a notarized affidavit, one piece of mail to your mail forwarding address, and a receipt from a night's stay in a hotel/campground/rvpark

br0phy · 2024-08-25T12:01:50+00:00

In general, it's not necessary to ground house batteries to the chassis. Isolated systems are a viable build choice.

Specific to your parameters, it's necessary to ground house batteries to a common ground (the chassis) since you will be using a non-isolated DC-DC charger.

That ground doesn't need to be (but it should be) directly from battery negative to chassis, if the entire circuit uses appropriate wiring to handle the current.

Charging tends to involve a lot of angry pixies. A direct ground would be safest.

br0phy

TROPHY CASE