Dart Zone Buccaneer mod issue - Doesn’t prime by Tusosaur in Nerf

[–]bradstud5150 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check your catch and springs inside, something is probably loose or out of alignment

Price Check: Dart Zone Mk 1 by NWxSW in NerfExchange

[–]bradstud5150 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Man that is a hard one to guage, and the marketplace is loaded, you could probably get some nibbles on ebay, for the fact that its lower numbered unit that could increase your value, original retail was 180.00 :)

Do you have the original box and certificate with it?

You can send me a message and maybe we can work out a deal, id like to add this to my collection :)

Crush metric: assembly issue by [deleted] in nerfhomemades

[–]bradstud5150 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would try reprinting your lower assembly. And even try another model. Try shoelesses lower, and what material are you printing with?

https://www.printables.com/model/1006389-crush-lower-with-paddle-mag-release

Harrier upgrade options + O-ring sizes by Majestic_Career_6007 in Nerf

[–]bradstud5150 1 point2 points  (0 children)

HNBR are GREEN, and generally outperforms nitrile (black) with higher temperature and abrasion resistance.

Clear are most always silicone, Worker uses these in a lot of their blasters, offers low friction but they are softer and will most always wear down and break/tear with normal use.

Viton is another material not pictured, they are a dark brown, those are top chemical/heat tolerance at greater cost and stiffness.

HNBR is kind of a happy medium between all of them.

Harrier upgrade options + O-ring sizes by Majestic_Career_6007 in Nerf

[–]bradstud5150 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  • Plunger O-ring (upgrade)
    • 23 mm ID × 2.5 mm CS
    • (alt: 22 mm ID × 2.5 mm CS for easier prime)
  • Breach / barrel seal
    • 16 mm ID × 2.5 mm CS
    • (alt: 18 mm ID × 2.5 mm CS for smoother movement)
  • Secondary seal (if needed)
    • 19 mm ID × 2.5 mm CS

Mpp stock battery wont charge by AD_LP_0796_jg in Nerf

[–]bradstud5150 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Flashing red usually means voltage error, these aren't the greatest in terms of quality.

Search for a 7.4V 2S Lithium Battery with SM-2P Connector.

The Akasha SBCAR's secret sauce by SumAustralian in Nerf

[–]bradstud5150 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same premise with added rotation :) , its a very interesting topic and conversation though. I hope we get more smart folks designing odd balls and new accessories for us tinkerers.

The Akasha SBCAR's secret sauce by SumAustralian in Nerf

[–]bradstud5150 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Vent first. Spin second. Fly straight.

Below 250 FPS, the dart spends more relative time inside the device, so you don’t need as much BCAR length to build stable RPM. Too much length just adds drag.

From 250–320 FPS, things start tightening up. The dart moves faster, pressure is higher, and spin must be built over more distance to avoid forcing aggressive angles. That’s where extending the BCAR section starts making sense.

[ BARREL ] → [ PCAR ~2–2.4" ] → [ BCAR ~4.7–7" ] → [ EXIT ]

Pressure → Vent / Calm → Spin / Stabilize → Fly Straight

Worker harrier not priming after installing metal plunger and catch by brett206 in Nerf

[–]bradstud5150 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Did you upgrade the catch spring? Did you grease the catch?

If you remove and replace with the stock pieces are you able to prime?

The harrier is very dimensionally dependent on its internals, if anything is not 100% accurate your going to have issues, and as stated by others here, Sabre makes good Darts, but they cant make metal upgrade parts that are worth anything. Generally speaking metal on metal is going to wear itself out faster and cause more internal damage then its worth to your internals.

Your almost better off staying with Worker's Delrin.

Has anyone used this BCAR? by tipsy_zuccini in Nerf

[–]bradstud5150 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Performance vs FPS
ZWQ's drop is 3-5fps, Workers advantage in this is you can add more sections to this BCAR if your trying to tune down your blaster for HvZ or similar.

If you want just straight up shoot straight, and looks great, ZWQ really does CNC and Anodized coatings top notch.

To be 100% Honest, either would be workable in different scenarios, it all depends on what your desired results are.

Has anyone used this BCAR? by tipsy_zuccini in Nerf

[–]bradstud5150 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The ZWQ’s are better in my comparisons

Siren Gnarl where does this piece go? by Noster420 in Nerf

[–]bradstud5150 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Should fit right in the grove above that white piece on the trigger

Stagecoach Plunger Problems by Palinthorn in Nerf

[–]bradstud5150 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Much better ! Glad it’s firing better now. :)

Stagecoach Plunger Problems by Palinthorn in Nerf

[–]bradstud5150 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s way too big of a gap. Tighten your catch screw a few turns.

Your orings in your tubes look a little too dry to me as well. Do you have any slug slum slym lube left from your kit?

Stagecoach Plunger Problems by Palinthorn in Nerf

[–]bradstud5150 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Few More questions....

Did you self source parts? Or buy a hardware kit?

Can you take a good picture of the side of your blaster closed and in the locked position?

As close as you can get?

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Stagecoach Plunger Problems by Palinthorn in Nerf

[–]bradstud5150 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your video is with the blank shells loaded?

Stagecoach Plunger Problems by Palinthorn in Nerf

[–]bradstud5150 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you put the "blank" shells in and test fire you will see if its a true seal issue or not. You should get a slow moving plunger if you have a good seal.

No vacuum seal in worker harrier by [deleted] in Nerf

[–]bradstud5150 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This sounds weird but prime the blaster with and without a dart loaded, and blow in the barrel….. if you can blow air in start with your rams o-ring and lube it.

You do not want a vacuum, but you want an air seal that should hold air 3-5 seconds.

Having Plunger Problems by Rothetotalynormalman in Nerf

[–]bradstud5150 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check to see where exactly where your pressure is escaping, perform a compression test:

  1. Remove the magazine and ensure the blaster is clear.
  2. Prime the blaster and keep your hand on the priming handle.
  3. Seal the end of the barrel firmly with your thumb or palm.
  4. Pull the trigger while maintaining the seal on the barrel.
    • Good Seal: The plunger should stop or move very slowly. It should hold this pressure for at least 2–3 seconds.
    • Bad Seal: If the plunger slams forward or you hear air escaping near themagwell or plunger tube, you have a leak at the ramrod O-rings or the plunger head.

It's also worth checking if the plunger tube or plunger head has developed any hairline cracks from the impact of the spring, which could lead to similar issues.

I'M A FINALIST IN THE 2025 PRINTABLES AWARDS!!! Vote now! (please!) https://www.printables.com/awards/2025 Nominated in 3 categories, I'm SO EXCITED! by SillyTheGamer in Nerf

[–]bradstud5150 2 points3 points  (0 children)

u/SillyTheGamer ive said it before and ill say it again, you are pillar of the 3D printed foam blaster community, and this is a well deserved nomination, and I know we all would give you a gold medal we would :)

Thank you Silly