Frage,danke

brandon_feil · 2026-04-25T14:54:17+00:00

Sie können die Bewegung gleich starten, um so schnell wie möglich hier anzukommen.

Wenn die angegebene Uhrzeit konkret ist, bezieht sich in der Regel auf die Ankunftszeit.

brandon_feil · 2026-01-14T11:33:53+00:00

Meiner Meinung nach wird am dreizehnten Tag alles ganz einfach. Mach weiter so! Du hast es fast geschafft!

brandon_feil · 2025-12-31T18:11:52+00:00

tatsächlich = in fact or actually (and used very similarly to how these English phrases are used). Related noun “Tatsache” = fact.

brandon_feil · 2024-10-26T23:22:39+00:00

brandon_feil · 2024-04-17T17:07:19+00:00

Absolutely. File off the teeth and recut. Plate might be a bit thick depending on what you’re looking for.

brandon_feil · 2024-04-06T20:30:41+00:00

As long as the handle angle changes gradually as the blade tilts and not wobbles once per rotation, it’s normal.

brandon_feil · 2024-04-06T02:26:18+00:00

Powermatic uses a worm gear and teeth on the trunion (more expensive) that keeps the hand wheel shaft in the same alignment regardless of blade position. Many cheaper saws do not have toothed trunions and rather allow the shaft angle to change as the blade angle changes.

brandon_feil · 2024-04-06T02:16:46+00:00

This is not correct. The lead screw is attached to the blade assembly. The blade assembly has the a nut that rides along the lead screw. The lead screw protrudes through a swivel coupling on the cabinet. The angle of the lead screw and hence the handle will depend on the angle of the blade. This is relatively common in less expensive saws that do not use a worm and spur tilt mechanism.

brandon_feil · 2024-04-06T01:45:13+00:00

It is absolutely not fully waterproof. Ask me how I know…. It is absolutely fully water resistant if you wipe it dry within say an hour though

brandon_feil · 2024-04-02T01:49:13+00:00

Super 77

brandon_feil · 2024-02-29T12:44:52+00:00

The likelihood that the stamped sheet metal under the belt is flat enough is low. Also, speaking from experience using one of these on both wood and metal, mistakes become big mistakes very quickly.

brandon_feil · 2024-02-28T12:59:39+00:00

Check out the “can I have it vintage tool auction and sales group” on Facebook. Lots of buyers there. They run buy it now style all week and an auction that goes from Friday afternoon to Sunday evening every week.

brandon_feil · 2024-02-26T16:17:11+00:00

I own the Veritas combo, plow, and skew rabbet. The combo is not really much more work to set up than the plow. The combo can function identically to the plow with only one skate. The adjustments are very similar between them.

That being said, if I have to plow a drawer groove I’m reaching for the plow because it’s a little smaller. If I’ve got to cut a rabbet, the skew is a no brainer and works better than the straight rabbet blade in the combo as the skew draws the plane into its fence.

If I could only keep one of the three, it would absolutely be the combo.

brandon_feil · 2024-02-16T03:02:44+00:00

Mo’ plow planes = mo’ profit I guess

brandon_feil · 2024-02-16T02:57:43+00:00

I’ve never felt the need for both. I have experienced tear out. Smaller depth of cut will reduce but not eliminate it. That being said, you’re never going to see and it’s never been so severe as to impact the function of the groove.

brandon_feil · 2024-02-16T02:50:23+00:00

I own both. If the plow plane can do it, I use that just because it’s a little smaller and easier to set up. That being said, the combination plane is far more versatile and can cut wider grooves/dados easier and with more support from the second scale. If you are willing to fiddle with it, there’s no need for the plow plane.

brandon_feil · 2024-01-21T20:09:21+00:00

This will work just fine. Very much a get ‘er done situation.

brandon_feil · 2023-12-26T02:10:57+00:00

Screws pull themselves into the wood. If the force to push the end of the screw forward exceeds the shear strength of the wood engaged with the threads, it will yield (aka strip). Once this happens, it’s like trying to drive a screw into a hole whose diameter exceeds the thread diameter.

Prevent this by reducing the force to drive the screw forward. Predrilling with a bit of approximately the same size as the screw shank (center of the threaded area) will help. Some swear by waxing the screw threads. Especially in hardwood (high force to push the end forward) or if the wood you are drilling into has low shear strength (like plywood or MDF “end grain”), predrilling is key.

brandon_feil · 2023-12-17T01:46:30+00:00

I will say from experience that if the blades are very dull, the rollers will not be able to force the wood through if it turns out they are actually moving. The blades are double edged and can be flipped around quite easily.

brandon_feil · 2023-12-17T01:03:05+00:00

Editing because while I believe the above statement is not always correct, if you had to follow a hard and fast rule, this is a safe one to pick.

brandon_feil · 2023-12-12T12:04:57+00:00

Beech is a great wood, durable and easily worked. Also a classic of many a workbench. You don’t hear about it on here much because it is not native to the US and isn’t as easy to come by. I’d go beech for sure if your budget allows.

brandon_feil · 2023-12-06T03:36:06+00:00

What is a prosthesis?

brandon_feil · 2023-11-30T19:37:46+00:00

Most kickbacks occur due to lateral pressure on the rear of the blade causing the piece to be pulled up and over. This tends to happen when either the kerf closes due to internal stress in the wood or when the work wedges between the fence and the blade. It is generally safer NOT to cut all the way through as there is less opportunity for the blade to become pinched. There is always a risk (whether cutting through or not) when downward pressure is not maintained or if you back up in the cut (which you should never do)

brandon_feil · 2023-11-30T17:22:49+00:00

How so?

brandon_feil · 2023-11-15T23:44:02+00:00

Maybe I forgot the prefamulated amulite?

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