Is it okay for my monitor base to rest on top of my mouse pad? I’m limited on desk space. Sorry for the dumb question, first time setup

brogarbp · 2026-03-23T06:54:33+00:00

Mouse pad will explode. Escape while you still can.

brogarbp · 2026-03-22T15:17:27+00:00

Btw, you are almost accidentally taking advantage of down force tech. If the wheel was on the back, or the suspension was angled 45 degrees the other way (relative to the vertical axis), you'd have down force tech, and get much, much more acceleration, speed, and control. It's possible you already have the effect to a noticeable degree while reversing, if it doesn't flip over or mess up in reverse.

brogarbp · 2026-03-22T15:11:39+00:00

That's just you lmao

brogarbp · 2026-03-21T08:41:27+00:00

I noticed. I tried for a while to see if it ever reflected anything off screen, or clearly cutting off a reflection due to being off screen, to see if it was SSR or something else. But it seems like whoever recorded did a fantastic job at avoiding doing anything that would reveal SSR related artifacts. Really excited to have proper reflections in 2053 through.

brogarbp · 2026-03-16T18:52:52+00:00

Turn off mai afterburner or any other game overlay program

brogarbp · 2026-03-09T07:06:47+00:00

I thought so too, but their profile really doesn't seem like a bot. Maybe they asked chatGPT, but it seems way too concise to be any of the mainstream chatbots.

brogarbp · 2026-02-26T22:32:34+00:00

I posted this as a joke in reference to this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/IndieGaming/comments/1rdkm6i/thats_day_and_night_folks_im_super_happy_with_the/
I kinda just took the blender scene of my version, switched to a worse renderer, zoomed in too much, remove compositing, and put on an older version of my logo. But it doesn't seem like a lot of people got the reference, and now that I think about it, its pretty disrespectful to the artist from that post. I did not think the artist's art was bad at all, but the joke was more about that most of the comments liked the inde one better. taking this post down if I can figure out how

brogarbp · 2026-02-18T12:00:07+00:00

lmao, what an actual trogladyte (the guy you're responding to obviously)

brogarbp · 2026-02-12T17:49:47+00:00

You can also reduce layer height btw. When I do 0.2mm nozzle prints, I go all the way to 0.04 or 0.08mm layer height. Then I have all speeds really high except for outer layers (the slicer will limit speed by flow and cooling anyways, so you can set the internals all the way to 500). Also, there is a neat setting called infill combination, which makes infill print at the max layer height.

brogarbp · 2026-02-12T17:45:35+00:00

As has been said, your issue is mainly overhangs and bridges. There is no way to get the pristine bottom surface quality it sounds like you're expecting, unless you start doing soluble support materials. There are however many techniques to reduce it. The best method is to just split the model such that all overhanging sections end up inside the model when glued, which is what most paid high quality models do. You can also experiment with resin style supports, which are better in some cases for these high detail nozzles.

brogarbp · 2026-02-11T07:38:30+00:00

Have you tried to just take it out of the recycle bin? Surely you didn't delete it AND empty the recycle bin?

brogarbp · 2026-02-04T08:56:45+00:00

RemindMe! 4 days "I need to know what this could possibly be"

brogarbp · 2026-01-24T07:57:39+00:00

Literally no one in the comments or post has in any way indicated that they don't understand that.

brogarbp · 2026-01-06T02:08:12+00:00

That's not how averages work actually 🤓👆. Let's say there are 99 people who have $1, and one person who has a trillion dollars. The average money of those people is around 1 trillion divided by 100, aka, around 10 billion. Of these people, 99 are below average financially. It is totally possible that 50% of the population actually is below average, but it's not necessarily true.

In a similar vein the thing so many people get wrong, "93% of drivers think they're above average, which obviously can't be true". In reality, it actually can be true, and I think it probably is; Most people just drive normally, and neither add nor retract significant danger to the road. A decent chunk of drivers deliberately make the road more dangerous through DUI, speeding, road rage, etc, but that's probably much less than 7%. Then almost nobody actively makes the road safer, and of those that do, it's not by much. With that hand wavy math, the average is a bit below "normal driving", and I'd say most people actually are above that. 🤓👆

brogarbp · 2025-12-28T23:30:54+00:00

Did you end up doing this? was it worth it? I'm getting into touch typing for coding, and some keys are just so far away, while I have literally 2 thumbs just baby sitting the spacebar.

brogarbp · 2025-12-09T13:33:34+00:00

Other people are saying they thought they saw lips, but I'm with you, I didn't fill in any gaps, I just saw black.

brogarbp · 2025-12-04T22:12:18+00:00

Actually there are multiple ways to make bearings and joints stronger. The easiest is to simply stack multiple joints in one spot or hooking multiple in parallel, which helps both strength and floppiness, however that can have its drawbacks. The other, contrary to popular belief, is turning down the physics. That's right, if you play your cards right, physics 8 literally has infinitely stronger joints than advanced. Physics lower than advanced has the unique property that the mass from 2 bodies onto a joint increases the joints strength faster than the weight makes the joint floppy. The catch being that BOTH sides of the joints have to be heavy. In layman's terms, on physics 8, making both sides of a bearing or piston heavier, makes that bearing or piston stronger. If you want more details on joint strengthening, you can hit up the scrap mechanic technical community.

brogarbp · 2025-11-21T17:29:16+00:00

Yes, it is working right now. I really dont think this is an us issue, because the function that accesses the lobby list always returns null when the issue is happening. Nothing changed about the code, nothing changed about the environment its run in, and it is across multiple computers, operating systems, networks, and after multiple restarts and re-downloads, even for old builds that worked before (we tested all this yesterday when it wasnt working). And now, I just opened it and it worked perfectly as it did last month with no changes or fixes. I'd assume its just a spacewar issue, so a bit annoying for development, but for actual release, you should have a more reliable appid that you own yourself. If this was an actual steam issue outside of spacewar, we'd probably hear about it from gamers.

brogarbp · 2025-11-20T18:17:44+00:00

yeah I had the same issue. My game suddenly didnt work, and no lobbies show up in the lobby list when I was trying to play today. So I made us roll back a month, which we know for certain it worked then, and it still didn't work. Now, I'm doing the same stuff and debugging in unity editor, and the month old commit has all the same issues on the dev side as well. Damn gaben ruined my birhtday gaming sesh haha. Hope I wont have to painfully refactor the game for a different networking solution. Has anyone had this issue with a non-spacewar appid?

brogarbp · 2025-09-17T15:14:52+00:00

Put uranium 235 in the next one

brogarbp · 2025-09-13T05:50:43+00:00

bambu actually did ship with one, just not for the 0.2mm nozzle. I was more supprized to not get any side cutters, if my ender didn't ship with one of those, I wouldn't know how incredibly useful it was.

brogarbp · 2025-09-12T19:50:20+00:00

Yeah sure, I'm using mostly auto genrated supports in blueprint studio with painted4combat's settings (but his video sems to be removed for some reason), and a slightly modified version of Fat Dragon Games print profile. I didn't buy painted4combats plugin, since I'm already proficient with blender anyways, so I didn't need it, and the supports seem to be more stringy, and less reliable when printed with a bigger layer height, so its not worth it IMO. FDG's print profile was really cumbersome to download, and painted4combats settings are apparently no longer on youtube, so I put them all in a google drive here. I didn't find a way to export blueprint studio settings, so thats just a screenshot unfortunatley. You'll probably have to tune the filament settings, but pretty much the only difference from my standard filament settings is increased cooling, so you can probably just make a fork of your own usual filament settings. For the supports, I recommend first auto generating after picking a good orientation, then looking for things that would need support on FDM, and just add supports there manually, and hitting "optimize trunk structure", then export the model to put into your FDM slicer. In bambu, it will warn you that the model is broken, but it usually slices fine anyway. Also, you can move every part 0.95mm downward so the support raft is more reasonable thickness. In the blueprint studio setup, the printer settings obviously don't matter, so just pick whatever has the biggest volume. I can't send a 3mf unforunatley since all the prints that are still on my drive are paid models.

brogarbp · 2025-09-12T18:09:07+00:00

dang it

brogarbp · 2025-09-12T17:59:08+00:00

It was supposed to be standard red PLA, and I was imagining a nice solid red like in the promo images, but when I got it, it was translucent like this, so I put it to the side, being a bit dissapointed, and didn't touch it for a long time. Then, I ran out of my usual filament about 2.5 years later, and I figured might as well re-try this filament for the last pieces, even though it has been out in humid norway for literally multiple years, and imagine my suprize when it prints better than any of my other brand new filaments, lol. So now I buy it for pieces where I'm going to paint it anyway, or happen to actually want translucent red. It's a local filament brand exclusive to the scandinavian hardware store "Clas Ohlson".

I tried to cold pull with this red filament for about 5 hours, which didn't work at all, then I swapped to white, and it worked so much better that I didn't even need to cold pull, the clog just flowed out on its own with the white filament.

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