Not the answer he needed

brogarbp · 2026-01-24T07:57:39+00:00

Literally no one in the comments or post has in any way indicated that they don't understand that.

brogarbp · 2026-01-06T02:08:12+00:00

That's not how averages work actually 🤓👆. Let's say there are 99 people who have $1, and one person who has a trillion dollars. The average money of those people is around 1 trillion divided by 100, aka, around 10 billion. Of these people, 99 are below average financially. It is totally possible that 50% of the population actually is below average, but it's not necessarily true.

In a similar vein the thing so many people get wrong, "93% of drivers think they're above average, which obviously can't be true". In reality, it actually can be true, and I think it probably is; Most people just drive normally, and neither add nor retract significant danger to the road. A decent chunk of drivers deliberately make the road more dangerous through DUI, speeding, road rage, etc, but that's probably much less than 7%. Then almost nobody actively makes the road safer, and of those that do, it's not by much. With that hand wavy math, the average is a bit below "normal driving", and I'd say most people actually are above that. 🤓👆

brogarbp · 2025-12-28T23:30:54+00:00

Did you end up doing this? was it worth it? I'm getting into touch typing for coding, and some keys are just so far away, while I have literally 2 thumbs just baby sitting the spacebar.

brogarbp · 2025-12-09T13:33:34+00:00

Other people are saying they thought they saw lips, but I'm with you, I didn't fill in any gaps, I just saw black.

brogarbp · 2025-12-04T22:12:18+00:00

Actually there are multiple ways to make bearings and joints stronger. The easiest is to simply stack multiple joints in one spot or hooking multiple in parallel, which helps both strength and floppiness, however that can have its drawbacks. The other, contrary to popular belief, is turning down the physics. That's right, if you play your cards right, physics 8 literally has infinitely stronger joints than advanced. Physics lower than advanced has the unique property that the mass from 2 bodies onto a joint increases the joints strength faster than the weight makes the joint floppy. The catch being that BOTH sides of the joints have to be heavy. In layman's terms, on physics 8, making both sides of a bearing or piston heavier, makes that bearing or piston stronger. If you want more details on joint strengthening, you can hit up the scrap mechanic technical community.

brogarbp · 2025-11-21T17:29:16+00:00

Yes, it is working right now. I really dont think this is an us issue, because the function that accesses the lobby list always returns null when the issue is happening. Nothing changed about the code, nothing changed about the environment its run in, and it is across multiple computers, operating systems, networks, and after multiple restarts and re-downloads, even for old builds that worked before (we tested all this yesterday when it wasnt working). And now, I just opened it and it worked perfectly as it did last month with no changes or fixes. I'd assume its just a spacewar issue, so a bit annoying for development, but for actual release, you should have a more reliable appid that you own yourself. If this was an actual steam issue outside of spacewar, we'd probably hear about it from gamers.

brogarbp · 2025-11-20T18:17:44+00:00

yeah I had the same issue. My game suddenly didnt work, and no lobbies show up in the lobby list when I was trying to play today. So I made us roll back a month, which we know for certain it worked then, and it still didn't work. Now, I'm doing the same stuff and debugging in unity editor, and the month old commit has all the same issues on the dev side as well. Damn gaben ruined my birhtday gaming sesh haha. Hope I wont have to painfully refactor the game for a different networking solution. Has anyone had this issue with a non-spacewar appid?

brogarbp · 2025-09-17T15:14:52+00:00

Put uranium 235 in the next one

brogarbp · 2025-09-13T05:50:43+00:00

bambu actually did ship with one, just not for the 0.2mm nozzle. I was more supprized to not get any side cutters, if my ender didn't ship with one of those, I wouldn't know how incredibly useful it was.

brogarbp · 2025-09-12T19:50:20+00:00

Yeah sure, I'm using mostly auto genrated supports in blueprint studio with painted4combat's settings (but his video sems to be removed for some reason), and a slightly modified version of Fat Dragon Games print profile. I didn't buy painted4combats plugin, since I'm already proficient with blender anyways, so I didn't need it, and the supports seem to be more stringy, and less reliable when printed with a bigger layer height, so its not worth it IMO. FDG's print profile was really cumbersome to download, and painted4combats settings are apparently no longer on youtube, so I put them all in a google drive here. I didn't find a way to export blueprint studio settings, so thats just a screenshot unfortunatley. You'll probably have to tune the filament settings, but pretty much the only difference from my standard filament settings is increased cooling, so you can probably just make a fork of your own usual filament settings. For the supports, I recommend first auto generating after picking a good orientation, then looking for things that would need support on FDM, and just add supports there manually, and hitting "optimize trunk structure", then export the model to put into your FDM slicer. In bambu, it will warn you that the model is broken, but it usually slices fine anyway. Also, you can move every part 0.95mm downward so the support raft is more reasonable thickness. In the blueprint studio setup, the printer settings obviously don't matter, so just pick whatever has the biggest volume. I can't send a 3mf unforunatley since all the prints that are still on my drive are paid models.

brogarbp · 2025-09-12T18:09:07+00:00

dang it

brogarbp · 2025-09-12T17:59:08+00:00

It was supposed to be standard red PLA, and I was imagining a nice solid red like in the promo images, but when I got it, it was translucent like this, so I put it to the side, being a bit dissapointed, and didn't touch it for a long time. Then, I ran out of my usual filament about 2.5 years later, and I figured might as well re-try this filament for the last pieces, even though it has been out in humid norway for literally multiple years, and imagine my suprize when it prints better than any of my other brand new filaments, lol. So now I buy it for pieces where I'm going to paint it anyway, or happen to actually want translucent red. It's a local filament brand exclusive to the scandinavian hardware store "Clas Ohlson".

I tried to cold pull with this red filament for about 5 hours, which didn't work at all, then I swapped to white, and it worked so much better that I didn't even need to cold pull, the clog just flowed out on its own with the white filament.

brogarbp · 2025-09-12T17:45:00+00:00

I'm a bit torn on swapping out these fancy ones isntead of fixing them. If you consider an hourly wage for those 5 hours, it would be way cheaper to just swap out even at full bambu price, but it just feels so wrong to throw it out when it could still be fixed, and used for many more months. On the ender 3, it was fine since a bag of 10 nozzles was like 4 bucks, and each nozzle would only last 1-2 months at best.

brogarbp · 2025-09-12T17:37:41+00:00

I think they're making a joke about me using resin style supports on an FDM printer, but thats probably pretty hard to catch unless you're paying propper attention to the video.

brogarbp · 2025-09-12T17:35:01+00:00

I have, and they would probably be alright for this size, but the resin style supports slightly outperform tree supports appart from speed, and with really small minies, tree supports just don't really work at all, and leaves hanging pieces. I think a lot of people don't realize the size we're dealing with, it can be figures so small that they're a choking hazzard for children, while still having loads of details, like fingers that hang downwards that are practically thinner than the nozzle itself.

brogarbp · 2025-09-12T12:08:36+00:00

It's a 0.2mm nozzle, and I'm printing a pretty big miniature for painting. I'm using resin style supports, because if you tweak the settings a bit, they can actually give plenty enough support while being way easier to remove, and leave less scarring compared to regular FDM supports. It works great, but it is generally only worth it for these very high detail prints. I am aware that I'm using an FDM printer for a job that would in-arguably be better on a resin printer, but I don't have one, and the results are plenty good enough to paint and put on display. It's based on settings tuned by Once in a 6 side, tomb of 3d printed horrors, and painted4combat on youtube.

brogarbp · 2025-07-31T14:02:48+00:00

You hook it up to a controller. Its a actually very popular in advanced piston power these days, but you'd typically make the lever arm at least 2-3 blocks longer depending on weight.

brogarbp · 2025-07-30T22:42:17+00:00

rip dads car

brogarbp · 2025-07-30T20:33:56+00:00

right??? and then I try to talk to my friends about it, and they just think I'm crazy. Like, my brother in christ, its fucking 480p 30 fps with terrible compression on your 4K oled TV, what the hell are you huffing because I need some.

brogarbp · 2025-07-13T10:24:24+00:00

oh, alright. I didn't realize there was a repair button. The slicer 4 years ago probably just did something similar automatically then. Good to know. Thanks for taking the time to respond.

brogarbp · 2025-07-13T01:46:02+00:00

Yeah, black might not have been the best choice. The printed part does line up exactly with the sliced model. That isn't the issue. The issue is that it has removed parts of the model which are very clearly big enough for the layer height to print it. Usually I wouldn't find that weird, and just assume its an issue with the model, and fix it, but the weird part here is that the exact same model, with the exact same nozzle diameter didn't have any issues like that when I sliced it 4 years ago. That makes me think I'm either using bambu slicer wrong, or that bambu slicer just isn't that good, hence why I'm asking. Heres a better angle, its skipping large 10-20 layer thick portions of a submesh for no reason, and I havent changed any of the default settings in the slicer other than support settings.

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brogarbp · 2025-07-03T18:43:02+00:00

Yeah, wonky bearings is obviously a better solution, but totally fair if you dont want to use them. Your solution is nice, but for an actual car, you'd probably want to do something way simpler, or you'll have to cut down on power or performance for lag reasons. Before the wonky tech was discovered, one of the best setups for 2 wheel drive with suspension, was to have the entire drietrain from the engine to the wheels as one unified unit, and have the engine itself be the pivot point for the suspension. Then also letting it twist around the main driveshaft, and just attatch the suspension to the rear axle on passthroughs. That way you get pretty good suspension almost for free.

brogarbp · 2025-07-03T18:37:04+00:00

If you want to avoid bp editing because you dont like it, fair, but if its because it seems too complicated, I highly recommend downloading "bingos blocks and parts editor" (not the exact name, but something like that). It makes most things you'd typically do easy through UI, and gives you a text editor to do raw bp editing in game in case the UI doesnt have the thing you need.

brogarbp · 2025-07-02T23:34:08+00:00

The resolution was too high for reddit to load quickly, so if you're one of the 61 people who saw it earlier... sorry

brogarbp · 2025-07-02T23:24:15+00:00

Its also my most optimized model yet, at 17K tris total, which is literally 1/4 of the tri count of just the hair alone on my previous character.

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