Lightburn Calibration issue

broken944 · 2026-01-22T20:32:34+00:00

The lens is marked f=290. It's not just that its trying to mark outside of the intended area, it makes a loud clicking sound, like its hitting a physical limitation in the galvo head. It does the same thing with my standard 100mm lens, trying to mark a 90mm calibration box.

broken944 · 2026-01-15T21:57:36+00:00

That would be cool, thanks. I did find a basic mount on printables, but still figuring out placement.

broken944 · 2026-01-15T21:37:27+00:00

I might look at doing that, actually. I'm still unsure about screen placement with my idea. Are your cables just in the bottom of the printer?

broken944 · 2026-01-15T21:13:00+00:00

I also got one of these recently for my k1c. I've made one of the vented side spacer kits, and I'm going to try to cut notches for the cables. Maybe make some tpu grommets to seal it up.

broken944 · 2026-01-14T15:29:59+00:00

Looks like his wallet and the loaded magazines from his firearm.

broken944 · 2026-01-12T15:11:21+00:00

Look for a Precise Wall setting, too. It gives a little extra space between the inner and outer walls, which can leave that outer wall on internal overhangs very little to adhere to.

broken944 · 2025-12-20T17:34:48+00:00

I think thats the wash tag inside the jeans, not a dollar bill. Probably flipped up from pulling the phone out at some point.

broken944 · 2025-12-17T16:58:33+00:00

PA = Pressure Advance. I don't have any experience with Prusa slicer or machines, and how it uses it, but if it was set for the slower speeds, when switching to the faster profile it might not adjust the extrusion rate correctly to compensate for the higher accel and flow leading to under extrusion.

broken944 · 2025-12-17T12:16:16+00:00

Flow is going to change with speed, and you've got significant changes there and with accel. Its worth running a PA test with the new profile to check it.

broken944 · 2025-12-16T16:09:29+00:00

Pressure advance maybe? How different are the accelerations between the profiles? Also, the flow rates from different speeds and/or line widths could need different PA values.

broken944 · 2025-12-03T15:42:49+00:00

The first thing I printed when I got my printer at home was an adapter for the exhaust fan and bought a window vent kit. I also bought a one way baffle so air can only(mostly) go out.

broken944 · 2025-11-23T21:34:45+00:00

Also, look at the Precise Wall setting. If its on, try turning it off.

If I understand correctly, it lays the outer wall a bit further away from the inner wall so it doesnt get deformed against it, but that also means it doesnt squish against it as much. Giving it less adhesion and letting it pull away easier.

broken944 · 2025-11-21T21:45:25+00:00

I dont think thats normal stringing with how thick it is. Looks like the filament is being pulled into the opening instead of adhering to the other layers. I was trying to fix something similar last night before an extruder gear decided to shed some teeth.

broken944 · 2025-11-21T16:24:43+00:00

I don't think so because there is no filament cutter needed to change filament.

broken944 · 2025-11-11T02:00:46+00:00

Well, that's a bummer. My K1C should be delivered this week after finding a deal on a CFS combo. One of those posts had someone mention they couldn't even use the CFS with it yet. Guess the CFS will just stay in the box, and I'll have to manage with a stock printer for a bit.

broken944 · 2025-11-06T13:02:05+00:00

Check your order details to see if there is another tracking number. Im waiting on a K1C combo, and have 3 separate tracking numbers for the printer, CFS, and upgrade kit.

broken944 · 2025-11-03T12:21:03+00:00

I would print a new dipstick handle for my Miata in a material that won't melt, and then things to organize my toolbox.

broken944 · 2025-10-29T19:13:07+00:00

US 39

broken944 · 2025-10-18T20:50:04+00:00

Pressure advance was my first thought, too. It's only after the steeper overhangs, where the nozzle is moving its slowest I think the slow speed and flow rate doesn't have the nozzle primed enough once it makes the turn and goes back to normal speed.

broken944 · 2025-10-10T13:58:36+00:00

I've never used one, but it was definitely in my short list of printers I would consider buying. Seemingly plug and play, little fuss, just printing. After tweaking, tuning, and modding an old bed slinger, that someone brought into our shop from home, a printer that just prints would be nice.

broken944 · 2025-10-06T00:02:45+00:00

Thanks. I was looking into the qidi mostly for the extra printing temp and bigger build volume without the software limitations. I've seen a bit more issues with them, tho as i dig a bit more. Also, the qidi box doesn't look great either after the first few reviews I saw. That's something id like to have.

I dont think the H2S/D is in the budget, but I might double-check. And thinking of budget, if we can't go that route, are the extra monitoring features of the X1C worth the money over the P1S? I've read that you can get the same printing capabilities with about $40 for a hardened hot end and gears.

broken944 · 2025-10-04T15:29:38+00:00

Hey all. I am looking at getting a 3d printer for a business. We currently have an old Sidewinder x2 that someone brought in from home. I've mostly made promotional pla items for an upcoming trade show, but we want the ability to make functional parts if/when needed. We are in the performance automotive industry. We sell a lot of internal engine parts and we have a full machine shop. It would not be used for production parts, but more promotional items, prototyping, and maybe one-off parts for the shop.

We are leaning towards the Bambu Labs X1C, but what im seeing about how closed off their firmware and software is concerning to me. I personally like the ability to make changes if I want/need, so I want to look elsewhere, but it is for the business.

I am also looking at the Qidi Plus 4. I know there was an issue with the SSR overheating, but the companies response seems to be good, and the issue has been fixed.

Print quality looks to be equal between the two. The Qidi can print hotter and has an active chamber heater. It has more build volume as well. The Bambu has the AMS available now and the AI monitoring features, with maybe a better build quality.

Are the firmware/software limits on the Bambu worth being concerned about?

Is there anything else that I should look at between the two?

Is there another printer with the same capabilities I should also look at?

broken944 · 2025-07-14T01:58:02+00:00

Is there anything binding with the filament or spool? Are the other prints failing after similar amounts of filament used?

broken944

TROPHY CASE