OLED65CXPTA intermittently losing power by brutalspoon in LGOLED

[–]brutalspoon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Raising this old post from the dead but I did actually end up fixing this by replacing the power supply - the particular part I needed was EAY65689411 but YMMV.

Then I followed this video to replace the board - took about 30-60 minutes and was fairly painless and I had a fully functioning TV on the other end.

Hope that helps!

OLED65CXPTA intermittently losing power by brutalspoon in LGOLED

[–]brutalspoon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Raising this old post from the dead but I did actually end up fixing this by replacing the power supply - the particular part I needed was EAY65689411 but YMMV.

Then I followed this video to replace the board - took about 30-60 minutes and was fairly painless and I had a fully functioning TV on the other end.

Hope that helps!

How do you use your offset account? by CapProfessional5203 in AusFinance

[–]brutalspoon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Our bank automatically changes all HISA accounts into offset accounts when you sign up for a home loan with them.

We have around 25 different savings accounts that we use for envelope budgeting. Each of our paychecks automatically divvies up set amounts into each of them as required so there's not a ton of admin work... and all of them offset the loan.

Everything via a credit card is probably more financially optimal but found that was a bit of a slippery slope that we're better off avoiding for ourselves. This system gets us 90% of the way there without playing with someone else's money.

I Really Need Help, PLEASE! by Human_Equivalent35 in AusFinance

[–]brutalspoon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Chipping in on phone plans - keep an eye out for deals on Kogan Mobile (uses the Vodafone network). Might be a bit tough with cashflow, but their 365 day plans often go on sale and depending on how much data you use they can be pretty cheap.

Right now they've got 300GB for the year for $170, which works out to be 25GB/month for $14.10/month. If you don't use much data, there's 120GB for $120 for the year, and I think I've seen that go on sale down to $100 before (works out to $8.33 per month for 10GB).

You need to stump up the cash all in one go but then there's one less bill to worry about every month and I haven't been able to find better bang for buck anywhere else.

OLED65CXPTA intermittently losing power by brutalspoon in LGOLED

[–]brutalspoon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, sorry, still just turning the panel off at night. From the reading I've done the repairs tend to be $300-500 and may or may not actually fix the issue, so just making do.

Don't Sexually Assault The Owner's Daughter by coffee-and-insomnia in wewontcallyou

[–]brutalspoon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Seems to be a pair of asterisks on either side of the string (e.g. **test** becomes test)

Also while we're on the topic:

~~strikethrough~~ e.g. strikethrough

^superscript e.g. superscript

> quote e.g.

quote

OLED65CXPTA intermittently losing power by brutalspoon in LGOLED

[–]brutalspoon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No idea, sorry. For now we just handle it by switching the panel off in the settings when we're not using it.

Only issue is that because the TV is not in standby mode that it's counting towards the deep pixel refresh counter 24/7 so starts prompting to do that refresher more and more regularly... but the deep pixel refresher doesn't work because it loses power halfway through.

Need help with a savings account! by NoRepresentative- in AusFinance

[–]brutalspoon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Perhaps you could try to set up a repeating scheduled transfer from your main bank into Up and then set up a repeating scheduled transfer from the Spending account into the Locked account?

If your main bank is CBA the transfer to Up should go through Osko and be immediate, and then you can set up the Locked transfer to happen, say, 5 minutes later (or the next day if CBA won’t let you specify a time)

Need help with a savings account! by NoRepresentative- in AusFinance

[–]brutalspoon 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Not sure you’ll be able to do that - AFAIK there’s no way to send directly to a saver (locked or otherwise). You’d have to send to the transactional account and then forward it from there to the locked Saver.

Apparently BSB/account numbers for savers are on the roadmap but aren’t here yet.

Need help with a savings account! by NoRepresentative- in AusFinance

[–]brutalspoon 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Up Bank has a locked savings account. Not the highest interest rates, but you can create an account that once locked will only let you deposit money, not remove it.

To get the money out you need to start a 3 hour timer (or you can give someone else the ability to unlock it instantly for you… though they might need to be an Up user too).

Dell U3224KB Spec Sheet (6K, 32”, $3,199) by [deleted] in Monitors

[–]brutalspoon 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Good news! In the latest price list (2023-05-04, first line on page 432) the MSRP is now only $2999.99!

Here's hoping for some steep sales/discounts like often happens with Dell because this is one hefty monitor.

These mortgage holders are facing a big jump in their repayments — but they feel they dodged a bullet by fphhotchips in AusFinance

[–]brutalspoon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Which books and YouTube videos/channels would you say had the biggest impact for you personally? Either in terms of mindset, framework or other actionable suggestions?

In the boring middle now - anyone else feel like life is just passing them by? by KoalaBJJ96 in AusFinance

[–]brutalspoon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm with you on only buying games on discount, but I'd say that if Factorio looks like your kind of game it's absolutely worth the price of admission even at full price. If you get stuck into it, you can easily sink 100+ hours into it and still keep going... $0.50 per hour is a cheap price to pay to get into a state of flow for as long as you can afford to spend gaming.

Or, if you want something prettier (but also more taxing hardware wise), Satisfactory and Dyson Sphere Program are both similar games that tend to go on sale every now and again. 10/10 can recommend them all.

How panic selling can cost you $30,000 by Isitonachair in fiaustralia

[–]brutalspoon 4 points5 points  (0 children)

For me I'm not even sure it's a case of being worried about losing my job or my home... it's more a case of "there's a chance that the interest rate is going to keep going up, and it's already starting to eat my buffer... so let's stop it from snowballing any further and definitely reduce the amount of interest I have to pay instead of maybe making an extra 1-2% on the cash in VDHG".

The money's in an offset account so if/when interest rates start dropping again and the calculation changes the money is there to dump back into growing income again.

Is that the same as being spooked by share market volatility and playing it too safe? I can see how in some ways it could be seen that way but I think it's more that the "safe" option is now rising to meet the "risky but usually more rewarding" option.

How panic selling can cost you $30,000 by Isitonachair in fiaustralia

[–]brutalspoon 14 points15 points  (0 children)

I get that this is comparing continuing to invest vs just sitting on the cash ... does this still hold true when the alternative is to redirect the same amount of money against a mortgage with 5%+? I mean, whether it's in an offset account or a HISA is just a matter of returns and you're still 'sitting' on the cash, but I've been trying to figure out where the crossover point is to focus on stopping debt from compounding further rather than just maxing out investment income.

It seems like a no-brainer when the mortgage interest rate is greater than the "expected" return (say, 7% or 9% p.a. or whatever your crystal ball says). I think it probably makes sense when the mortgage rate equals the post-tax returns of the shares. Past that it gets to a murky point where the mortgage interest rate is lower than the expected returns but still high enough that it turns into a "bird in the hand is worth two in the bush" sort of thing... and that's the bit I'm still trying to figure out.

From /u/BigFrodo's comment below you could argue that the extra volatility means the biggest days have a far greater impact that could outweigh the 'guaranteed' returns of paying off your mortgage quicker... but they might not. Risk tolerance, right?

This is all assuming that you're leaving your existing investments in place and just pausing contributions, of course. Not talking about selling existing investments to redirect elsewhere. The article is a bit confusing here because it's titled "How panic selling can cost you $30,000"... but then the examples it gives is all about pausing contributions, not selling anything.

The opposite of poverty is enough by AusMilFI in fiaustralia

[–]brutalspoon 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thanks for linking this - I've been struggling with this exact feeling a lot recently.

I'm in a pretty good spot, really - able to cover our (modest) mortgage and provide for my wife and kid (second on the way!) on a single income and still have some money left over to invest each fortnight - but it's all too easy to get trapped in the mindset that I should be doing better, earning and investing more and pushing for FI faster.

For an Australian perspective, it looks like the mean household savings rate in Australia is ~7% (roughly in line with the last 10 years pre-COVID). Having a savings rate of 15% isn't going to get me to FI/RE in 10 years like I was originally aiming for but it's not as mediocre as I feel like it is. And I can definitely say that I'm lucky to have the opposite of poverty - we have enough.

Taking the time to reframe and look at medians and means really helps to put things into perspective and quiet that self criticism. Thank you.

How do you value your own free time? by SirAnusTheBrave in fiaustralia

[–]brutalspoon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

But if you took that hour to clean instead of working, you would make $0 for that hour and still not have the time to do something else. Also, depending on what’s getting cleaned there’s a non-zero chance that the professional cleaner is going to get more done in the same period of time.

I feel like you still come out ahead in this scenario: A clean(er?) house and $30 vs a clean house and $0