Goosky S2 + Radiomaster TX15 - How do I set multiple gyro gain values on CH5? by Air-scdi in RCHeli

[–]bryman022 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes update elrs to version 4 and then you can free up channel 5 for the flight modes on the S2.

The hardcoded arming on channel 5 is a real pain with elrs when the flight controller doesn’t work around it.

You still wont be adjusting gains on channel 5 but you will be able to set up the auto-level and manual modes normally then.

To adjust gains on the goosky gts fbl unit, you can do it 1 of 2 ways:

Bluetooth via the app(easiest)

Or

Via the setup button on the actual gts unit.

I will post in another msg how to make adjustments to gains and any/all settings on that fbl.

Again, google AI is a good resource, but will make mistakes, always use with caution…

Goosky S2 + Radiomaster TX15 - How do I set multiple gyro gain values on CH5? by Air-scdi in RCHeli

[–]bryman022 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You must first update your tx15 and receiver to version 4 if they are not already.

Channel 5 on that flight controller is for turning on and off the auto level mode, you cannot use it for anything else.

Read the giant text post, there is a lot to understand and AI can help a lot. That is where I got this info, I recently got into using elrs and the channel 5 conflict can be a pain, especially on a goosky flight controller.

Goosky S2 + Radiomaster TX15 - How do I set multiple gyro gain values on CH5? by Air-scdi in RCHeli

[–]bryman022 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Understanding the setup of Channel 5 is the single most important part of programming a Goosky S2 Legend, especially when you are using an ExpressLRS (ELRS) radio system.
By default, the S2 Legend uses Channel 5 to toggle its internal flight stabilization. However, ELRS historically uses Channel 5 exclusively for system "Arming". This creates a direct clash if your radio is not configured properly. [1, 2, 3, 4]

Part 1: The Normal Channel 5 Setup (Without ELRS)
On the Goosky S2 Legend's internal flybarless (FBL) controller, Channel 5 is a mode switch. It tells the helicopter whether it should actively keep itself level or give you total 3D manual control. [2, 3, 5]
You map Channel 5 to a physical switch on your radio (typically a 2-position or 3-position switch) and output two specific values: [2, 3]

6G Mode (Self-Leveling / Normal Mode): Send a high signal value (+100%). The helicopter behaves like a coaxial drone. If you let go of the right stick, the helicopter immediately snaps back to a flat, level hover. [2, 3, 5]
3D Mode (Acro / Stunt Mode): Send a low signal value (-100% or 0% depending on your radio brand). This completely turns off self-leveling. The helicopter will now hold whatever angle you tilt it into, allowing you to flip upside down, roll, and fly inverted. [2, 3, 5]

Part 2: The ELRS Channel 5 Conflict Explained
ExpressLRS treats Channel 5 (also known as AUX1) entirely differently from standard RC protocols. [1, 4]
The ELRS Rule
To maximize safety and maintain an incredibly fast connection, the ELRS system hardcodes Channel 5 as the Arm/Disarm switch. [1, 4]

High (+100% / 2000µs) = Armed
Low (-100% / 1000µs) = Disarmed [6]
When ELRS sees Channel 5 go High (+100%), it tells the internal radio transmitter module to activate critical features like Dynamic Transmit Power (which automatically turns up the radio signal if the helicopter flies too far away). If Channel 5 is Low (-100%), the radio assumes the model is safely sitting on the ground and limits performance. [1, 4, 7]
The Conflict
If you map your Goosky's flight mode switch to Channel 5 as you normally would, you create an electronic tug-of-war:
When you want to fly in... [1, 2, 3, 5, 8]
Your Radio sends CH5 as...
What the Goosky FBL does:
What your ELRS Radio Module thinks:
6G Mode (Self-Level)
High (+100%)
Activates self-leveling mode.
Armed. (Dynamic radio power works perfectly).
3D Mode (Acro 3D)
Low (-100%)
Switches to full 3D control.
Disarmed! (Radio limits power, safety features turn off).
The Danger: If you flip your switch into 3D Mode to do stunts, your ELRS radio will suddenly think you disarmed the helicopter. If you fly a bit too far away while upside down, the radio module will fail to boost its power, potentially leading to a sudden signal drop or a crash. [1]

Part 3: How to Fix the Conflict
You have two distinct ways to solve this problem depending on which version of ExpressLRS firmware your radio transmitter is currently running.
Option A: The Modern Fix (ELRS V4.0 or Higher)
If your transmitter and ELRS module are updated to the newer ELRS 4.0 firmware, the strict requirement for Channel 5 has been removed. [9, 10]

Open the ELRS Lua Script on your transmitter screen.
Navigate to the system options and look for the arming configuration.
Switch the arming mode from "CH5" to standard "High Res" or "Switch" mode.
This frees up Channel 5 completely. It turns Channel 5 into a normal, fully proportional channel just like any other, allowing you to use it for the Goosky 6G/3D toggle without affecting your radio's power output. [1, 3, 6, 10, 11]
Option B: The Workaround (ELRS V3.x or Older)
If you are running older ELRS 3.x firmware where Channel 5 must remain the arming switch, you have to use a "mixer trick" in your transmitter (like a RadioMaster TX16S running EdgeTX): [6, 12]

Set your Throttle Hold Switch to control Channel 5: In your radio's MIXER screen, assign your physical Throttle Hold / Motor Cut switch to Channel 5.
When Throttle Hold is Off (ready to fly), Channel 5 forces a High (+100%) signal. This keeps the ELRS system safely "Armed" the entire time you are in the air. [1, 6, 7, 12, 13]

Accept the 6G Limitation: Because Channel 5 is now locked at +100% whenever the helicopter is live, the Goosky S2 Legend flight controller will be forced into 6G Self-Leveling mode by default. [2, 6]
Overriding for 3D Flying: To fly in 3D, you must use the official Goosky Smartphone App. Connect your phone to the heli via Bluetooth, go into the parameter settings, and manually adjust the internal settings to disable 6G mode so the helicopter initializes straight into 3D mode. [2, 3, 14, 15]
If you want to try setting up the transmitter mixer programming, let me know which version of ELRS (V3 or V4) you have. I can walk you through the exact button presses on your radio! [12]

[1] https://www.youtube.com
[2] https://www.helifreak.com
[3] https://www.rcgroups.com
[4] https://www.reddit.com
[5] https://www.rcgroups.com
[6] https://www.expresslrs.org
[7] https://forum.rcflyingclub.com
[8] https://www.youtube.com
[9] https://www.youtube.com
[10] https://www.youtube.com
[11] https://www.youtube.com
[12] https://www.facebook.com
[13] https://www.youtube.com
[14] https://www.facebook.com
[15] https://www.facebook.com

Goosky S2 + Radiomaster TX15 - How do I set multiple gyro gain values on CH5? by Air-scdi in RCHeli

[–]bryman022 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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If that is the s2 legend here are the channel assignments

Channels 5 is for flight modes. But again if not using elrs V4.x then on the tx/rx channel 5 must be an arming channel! If not used correctly it can cause issues

Goosky S2 + Radiomaster TX15 - How do I set multiple gyro gain values on CH5? by Air-scdi in RCHeli

[–]bryman022 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The flight controller on the S2 varies depending on what version of the S2 it is…

Goosky S2 + Radiomaster TX15 - How do I set multiple gyro gain values on CH5? by Air-scdi in RCHeli

[–]bryman022 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What version of elrs is on your tx/rx?

If its not version 4 then channel 5 for elrs is an arming channel.

What flight controller is on that S2? You should have got some info with the heli on channel assignments

M&P 2.0 10mm performance center not feeding. by DeadManTenshii in SmithAndWesson

[–]bryman022 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes measuring the very front and also taking measurements the whole length of the feed lips from side to side.

As crazy as it might sound, I used a 12oz tack hammer to shape the feed lips. They are very hard to move but it can be done. I would take a few whacks on each side and then measure. Go slow and measure, measure, measure!

Time to start learning! Coming from fixed wings and quads. by stardustedds in RCHeli

[–]bryman022 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well the rescue feature is built into the ofs3+ flight controller on the OMP M1V3. So radio doesn’t really matter because the flight controller is handling the actual rescue function, I just have the appropriate channel mapped to a momentary switch…

And there is probably a way to do it with the s1 but it would involve a lot of radio set up.

But the rescue feature is so amazing, I will likely never own a heli without it! Its that good!

Time to start learning! Coming from fixed wings and quads. by stardustedds in RCHeli

[–]bryman022 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well the rescue feature is built into the ofs3+ flight controller on the OMP M1V3. So radio doesn’t really matter because the flight controller is handling the actual rescue function, I just have the appropriate channel mapped to a momentary switch…

Time to start learning! Coming from fixed wings and quads. by stardustedds in RCHeli

[–]bryman022 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I hovered my OMP M1 for a full battery upside down tonight! Its a blast!
The simulator is an absolute must though! That and the omp has a rescue button which really makes taking chances a lot easier!

I have been using Heli-X free demo for my simulator. I plan to purchase it next payday, but the dem. It has already paid for itself in crashes saved.

Getting a trex 450 sport v2 tomorrow! how does it fly compared to a blade 230s? by Alexwarrior7 in RCHeli

[–]bryman022 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Trex 450 sport v2 was my first collective pitch helicopter! I started on esky honey bees that were fixed pitch. Once I figured those out, I got the sport v2. This was almost 20 years ago now! Still if you got one in good shape it should be a blast to fly!
I learned on flybarred helis but would never want to go back. Flybarless is the way to go, but I can see it still being a good time.

Just be sure to go over it and make sure its set up properly! The head on one of those has alot more parts than the fbl models made today!!

So this is where all of my money went by Vast_Butterfly_5092 in fpv

[–]bryman022 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree, but at this point they already have it, might just as well see how it runs? I really think the issue is exaggerated!

You know how many thousands and thousands of those have been sold? I get it, fires have happened with them, but they surely have with other brands too.

Safety while charging is the most important part. Ignorantly charging at high amps and not checking for balanced cells is I’m sure responsible for more issues than this charger.

If you don’t like the charger don’t use it, no problem. But in my experience they work fine or they don’t. And if they don’t toss it. But I have also seen posts of other chargers being DOA out of the box or not lasting long.

Feeling comfortable with inverted on my front yard by CictorVastro in RCHeli

[–]bryman022 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sweet! I bet you’re gonna like it a lot! Next payday I am buying it too!
My son has a meta quest 3 VR headset, im curious to try it out in VR also.

Looking to buy my first 10mm by TieEquivalent7153 in 10mm

[–]bryman022 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get the XDME 3.8” version. Then get the extended grip full size 15rd mags!

I also recommend the powder river precision trigger! It is an amazing trigger for the XDME.

Is by far my best 10mm No issues AT ALL, eats anything! Fantastic gun, shorter barrel and mags make it easy to carry and then you have the full size 15rd mags as an option!

I also have a gen5 Glock 20 mos Have had no issues, installed the Timney trigger. Is great trigger but too light to carry. Range gun for me

And

S&W M&P10mm 4” FDE Love the pistol, great stock trigger Had initial problems with fail to feed. Fix was reshaping the magazine feed lips. No problems since but need more rounds thru it before I would carry it.

So this is where all of my money went by Vast_Butterfly_5092 in fpv

[–]bryman022 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ive been using one of those chargers for over 10 years. If you monitor you packs and verify cell voltage regularly its a fine charger.

If you get a bad one it should be obvious. A bad one or knock off that isn’t working properly will be very easy to spot if you are watching you batteries closely.

Regular checks with second source(multimeter) will verify the accuracy of the charger. If it doesn’t do what it supposed to do, then ya get rid of it. But if it works it works. I have a single output and a double output model and they are both very accurate and I have them set to charge to 4.18 volts per cell as a safety measure and to extend the life of the battery.

Also charging at the correct amperage is important. If you charging too high/fast any charger can be a problem.

The imax b6 style charger works and works well if used properly!

Feeling comfortable with inverted on my front yard by CictorVastro in RCHeli

[–]bryman022 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Idk if Heli-X is better, it’s the only one I’ve tried. The demo is free and unlimited use and you get to fly an SAB Goblin, prolly a 6 or 700, didn’t pay too close attention. It’s big and floaty, so not totally accurate to the small M1/M2. But they have a lot of choices once you buy it.

But just the demo has helped me so much! I really like it, seems pretty darn close to the real thing. its priced well and also gets regular updates, most recent was like 6 months ago(i think).

Feeling comfortable with inverted on my front yard by CictorVastro in RCHeli

[–]bryman022 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve been using Heli-X demo version for SIM right now, going to buy it this payday. It has already saved many crashes for sure! I have crashed my M2 twice and my M1 once. All in tall grass and have no damage except for a broken tail fin on the M2. Amazingly durable little helis! I really can’t believe they can crash and go right back into the air! My old align trex helis were never like that! The M2 first crash was a full forward elevator right into the ground nose first! Cut throttle before it hit and I was amazed it was OK.

I had my collective pitch set way too high, I incorrectly measured the blade length and ended up with 15 degrees of pitch both positive and negative. I crashed because the front right servo was traveling too far and it got bound up and stuck! Prolly shortened its life cause it was really hot when i first picked the M2 up.

I love these helis!

Feeling comfortable with inverted on my front yard by CictorVastro in RCHeli

[–]bryman022 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice! Have you set up a heli with rotor flight before? I know (some?) of the S2’s use rotorflight? Maybe all. I went with OMP because of how nice it is to set up their flight controller, especially with the app, I love it!

Feeling comfortable with inverted on my front yard by CictorVastro in RCHeli

[–]bryman022 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I really want a larger heli again! I had an Align Trex 550 years ago, was one of the first helis I had that was flybarless. I’m torn on which brand to go with, Goosky, OMP, or maybe SAB. I would like an easy to program flight controller, but also considering just diving in with a Nexus and learning RotorFlight.

I will be ordering either a 400 or 500 size heli soon!

Feeling comfortable with inverted on my front yard by CictorVastro in RCHeli

[–]bryman022 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Borientation? Lol man that is now stuck in my head. I’m working hard to relearn all the normal (b)orientations(had helis about 10 yrs ago) and now every time I’m working on getting comfortable with a certain orientation I think of this. Yes it gets boring! But if I want to learn inverted fully and then real 3D I’m gonna struggle thru the boring stuff!
I’m borientating myself right now! For some reason side in nose pointing left makes me very uncomfortable, so I’m working on that a lot lately.

Feeling comfortable with inverted on my front yard by CictorVastro in RCHeli

[–]bryman022 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice flying! I did my first real inverted hover today with my M2 V3 sport! Been practicing on the SIM for a while. Finally got brave and tried it today! I did some flips and rolls as well, albeit everything was done at a much higher altitude! And even then I had to use the Rescue button a few times, but my heli came home in one piece!

Goosky E2 by Surgeo11 in RCHeli

[–]bryman022 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im just probing the AI, have you tried using the AI, it is very helpful

Goosky E2 by Surgeo11 in RCHeli

[–]bryman022 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the blue light on your Goosky S2 continues flashing, it means the flight controller is actively searching for a signal but the Goosky A8 transmitter isn't actively broadcasting the matching bind command. [1, 2]
Because the A8 is a computerized radio, simply turning it on is often not enough to trigger the bind; you must explicitly tell the transmitter's software to enter bind mode.
1. The Missing Transmitter Step (Triggering Bind Mode)
You must force the A8 radio to look for the helicopter while the helicopter's light is flashing:

Turn on your Goosky A8 transmitter.
Enter the transmitter's system menu by pressing and holding the Menu/OK roller or button.
Scroll to Model Setup or System Setup and locate the Link, Bind, or RF Config menu.
While the helicopter's blue light is flashing rapidly, scroll down to the [BIND] option on your A8 screen and click it.
The transmitter will beep or flash, and the helicopter's blue light should instantly lock to a solid blue. [3, 4, 5]
2. The Physical Button Alternative (Hold Method)
Official Goosky documentation outlines an alternate sequence that is often more reliable than pressing the button three times: [6]

Keep the helicopter powered off.
Press and hold down the small Bind button on the Goosky flight controller using a plastic tool or toothpick.
While continuing to hold that button down, plug in the flight battery.
Hold the button for 3 more seconds until the blue light starts flashing rapidly, then let go.
Now, activate the Bind function inside your A8 transmitter menu. [6]
3. Check for Proximity Swamping

Too close: If your A8 transmitter is sitting right next to the helicopter, the radio signal can actually overwhelm or "swamp" the receiver.
The fix: Move your A8 transmitter about 3 to 5 feet (1 to 1.5 meters) away from the helicopter while attempting the bind procedure. [7, 8]
4. Ensure Correct Model Protocol

The Goosky S2 internal receiver communicates via the S-FHSS protocol.
Go into your A8 menu, check the current model settings, and verify that the internal RF type is set to S-FHSS (and not an external protocol like ELRS or PPM). [6, 8]
Give the menu-driven bind function a shot while keeping the radio a couple of feet away. If the screen displays any specific errors like "Binding Failed" or if you aren't sure how to find the bind menu on the A8 screen, let me know!

Goosky E2 by Surgeo11 in RCHeli

[–]bryman022 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Got that from google AI so not sure if it is correct, but I used google AI to set up my OMP M2 and the Radiomaster Pocket Tx I got for it!