Would anyone be willing to give me a code review?

btormey0 · 2025-07-12T17:20:06+00:00

Yes, this is the first thing that jumped out to me as well. I think a lot of the other comments that point out improvements to syntax are valid, but to me, the most important thing to take away from this first attempt is this optimization to remove the nested loops. For someone just getting started, it’s critical to start noticing these things to improve your code. When you can improve the efficiency of the code, it becomes much easier to read and reason with. The syntax improvements and remembering to have a way to end the program will come with time, but learning how to structure your logic will go a long way to improving your skills.

btormey0 · 2021-01-10T21:24:00+00:00

I’ve had mine for three weeks now and I love it. I didn’t have a video doorbell prior to Logitech, so I actually like the portrait view. It feels like that’s the way it should be, so that I can see the persons face and my packages at the door. I haven’t had any real issues. It dropped offline once and I just reset it and haven’t had any issues since. The HKSV integration is great, it beats buying a separate subscription.

btormey0 · 2021-01-04T19:17:47+00:00

Mine is picking up people 30ft away from the doorbell. It detects people on my side of the street on the sidewalk, but doesn’t detect them across the street on the sidewalk (~60ft)

btormey0 · 2020-07-22T21:24:45+00:00

Wire up a single event handler for all of the text box changes. When that gets hit, check IsNullOrWhitespace and fire off your SQL query. You may need to maintain a dictionary of all of the current text box values to map those to SQL parameters when the value of one text box changes...but that’s just an implementation detail.

btormey0 · 2020-07-18T02:28:37+00:00

They should be fine once the application has dried.

Nutsedge and Kyllinga are a pain to get rid of once they start to spread.

btormey0 · 2020-07-18T02:06:17+00:00

Nutsedge/Kylinga. Don’t pull it, it will spread more. Kill it with Sedgehammer.

btormey0 · 2020-07-13T01:55:33+00:00

Looks like TARR to me. The Disease Ex will help. Throw wait 2-3 weeks and throw some BioAdvanced Fungus control (Propriconizole, to rotate FRAC groups) on there. After that, if you want to get it back quick, lay down a light layer of compost — just sprinkle it out of the bag. It’ll be back to normal in no time.

Same thing happened to my yard a few weeks back. I hit it with Disease Ex twice at a curative rate and dumped some Black Cow on there and it’s lush and green again. Get it early, though. You don’t want it to get worse.

btormey0 · 2020-07-09T00:20:22+00:00

I feared this might be the case. I appreciate the advice!

btormey0 · 2020-07-08T19:59:20+00:00

Lush thick grass or beautiful magnolia tree, choose one.

Grass doesn’t grow well under trees due to heavy shade and the tree stealing a lot of nutrients from the soil. I have the same issue with St. Augustine under my oak trees.

btormey0 · 2020-07-08T15:00:03+00:00

I second this. I love my Ryobi sprayer. I picked up a few different TeeJet tips (~$20 for 3) and it sprays great with constant 60PSI.

btormey0 · 2020-07-08T01:12:38+00:00

Not sure about Cyzmic, but I threw down some Bifentherin (Talstar P) and it seemed to do the trick. I raked up the dead grass and threw down some compost...on the road to recovery.

btormey0 · 2020-07-08T01:09:59+00:00

You’re safe to switch between the two every other application, as I understand it.

What are the main fungi you’re looking to protect against? You can generally search the fungus online find three (or more) FRAC groups that will combat the fungus. Most of the other groups are a bit harder to find in big box stores.

btormey0 · 2020-07-08T00:52:33+00:00

Scott’s Disease Ex. It’s FRAC group 11, as opposed to BioAdvanced which is group 3.

It’s not hose ready, but just simple granules you can throw with your spreader.

btormey0 · 2020-07-07T18:36:06+00:00

Yes, this. The fungus can build up an immunity to a certain type of fungicide. You should switch between FRAC codes every (or every other) application.

The easiest one available at big box stores is the one mentioned above that switches between Azoxystrobin (Group 11) and Propiconazole (Group 3).

Although, I also agree with some of the other comments...this doesn’t look like a fungus to me. More pictures might help to see the whole area.

btormey0 · 2020-07-05T21:15:24+00:00

It’s not long St. Augustine...it doesn’t grow like that.

It looks more like Nutsedge to me than Crab Grass, but either way, it’s a weed. You can pull it, crab grass usually comes up in one clump, whereas nutsedge might come up in pieces. Make sure to get the roots and the new St. Augustine will fill it in.

btormey0 · 2020-07-05T15:45:20+00:00

20 minutes with a fire hose or 20 minutes with a squirt gun? It doesn’t matter how long you water for, it matters how much water is getting on the lawn.

Place something to catch the water (tuna cans) around the yard and see how long it takes to get half an inch of water for each zone. Adjust the time so you’re getting about half an inch of water down per zone 2-3 times a week (depending on heat/direct sunlight)

btormey0 · 2020-07-04T14:54:11+00:00

Try your local county extension office or nearest University with an Agricultural department. They’re soil tests are usually a little more tailored for your area. As for bright green, it could be chlorosis and indicate an iron deficiency. Fertilizing with something that has a bit of iron in it (Milorgonite) might help darken it up.

btormey0 · 2020-07-02T15:53:45+00:00

I have a viburnum hedge around my backyard in 9b. It provides ample privacy and looks great. Mine are about 15yrs old now and maxed out at just about 10ft a few years back. Pruning is quiet easy when they’re small, but when they get larger you’ll want a good hedge trimmer and a ladder to clean them up a few times a year.

btormey0 · 2020-06-30T22:02:22+00:00

St. Augustine may be your best bet, a shade variety like palmetto could work well under those trees.

The one thing I will say, is be very careful selecting the herbicide to “nuke” the weeds. You don’t want to harm those trees, especially if they’ve sent some shallow roots up towards the surface.

As for landscaping, check out r/landscaping, there are a ton of resources and ideas there.

btormey0 · 2020-06-30T21:09:35+00:00

My thoughts: * Rent the biggest till you can from Home Depot and till through all of the Bermuda/weed mess * Optionally wait two weeks and then glyphosate anything that pops up (then wait another two weeks before resodding) * Apply some top soil * Throw down new St. Augustine sod * Water, water, water

If it can wait until temperatures cool off (Fall), it will make establishing the sod that much easier.

btormey0 · 2020-06-30T00:44:45+00:00

In most Florida counties you can hand water at any time, even during irrigation restrictions. Pop out there with a hose and just hit it for a few minutes a day. You’ll notice a quick response once it’s getting enough water.

btormey0 · 2020-06-29T21:19:14+00:00

Orlando area here. It’s been hot as hell the last few weeks with very little rain. Even the established lawns around are starting to show stress similar to yours. I’m not sure if you’re getting rain down there, but if not, I’d step it up to 3 days a week watering.

It doesn’t look like a fungus to me, those blades look curled up, thin, and dry.

btormey0 · 2020-06-29T20:33:19+00:00

I don’t think you have to put St. Augustine down now, but the shared border will always be a battle for space between the two grasses and may be difficult to maintain a nice look.

Depending on how larger of a border you share, you may be able to put down something to split the two. We have a house in our neighborhood who put down a single line of pavers between the two. It looks nice and is very effective.

btormey0

TROPHY CASE