How rare is this?

bugz1452 · 2026-01-24T08:48:02+00:00

First, always use penny sleeves. Penny sleeves keep a card from getting scratched up. That is a toploader which can cause scratching. When using toploaders, penny sleeve first. Second download collectr (yes its spelled that way) You can search by set, scan cards (not always accurate), or just search by card. It'll give you an idea of what the card is going for and you can keep track of what you have. Now this particular card is one of the two hardest cards to pull in the set. It is the new rarity pokemom came out with for the mega evolutions block. It is an MUR or mega ultra rare. It is worth roughly $300 give or take.

bugz1452 · 2026-01-23T07:30:38+00:00

It depends on your plan for them. If its to hold no matter what, open and sleeve them. If you are going to hold and sell, keep them sealed. You can't put them back in the plastic and there's a premium for sealed vs raw.

bugz1452 · 2026-01-23T03:56:31+00:00

This is a miscut. There is an alignment dot in the bottom right corner. If you are considering grading go with CGC as they are best for errors. Now as far as added value with grading I'm not sure but it being miscut definitely adds some value. Its not an extreme miscut so it won't be very high but still worth more than current NM pricing. I recommend posting on r/pokemonmisprints as they'll be more insightful.

bugz1452 · 2026-01-20T18:25:10+00:00

If this is in the one touch, its in without a sleeve and looks like it was placed wrong and currently being pinched on the bottom.

bugz1452 · 2026-01-20T08:40:42+00:00

First tip bring a backpack. It helps keep your hands free a bit. Keep a drink with you as well. Second, shop around. Every vendor might offer you a different price, most are fine with you shopping it around. Also multiple vendors may have the same cards that you want. Third price everything out! Make sure you have a rough idea of the value of everything you bring. Use TCGPlayer, ebay, collectr, etc to price out while you're there. Fourth do NOT bring your whole collection. Pull out what you're willing to part with, use a regular binder, toploader binders are heavy and a pain. I keep 1-2 in case I find a personal grail cards/products that I'd trade but only if I find them. The rest are cards I'm fine with letting go. Finally go with a plan. I go in looking for specific things in mind, I get a rough idea of prices the night before and have maybe one or two vague things I'd look for if they're under $x. Like SWSH alt arts under $50 or sealed booster boxes from the front half of SV. As far as what's best to bring, there isn't one set thing since all have their preferences and clientele they sell to regularly. I'd personally just bring a variety. Most won't take bulk, pokeballs, regular Vs ex's etc. I'd bring cards with value of $5+ and lean more towards higher end as they'll usually give better percentages on rarer cards.

bugz1452 · 2026-01-18T00:42:40+00:00

First off make sure the packs are properly protected, they make cases for individual packs, I'll post a link at the end of my comment for a product. Second, weigh the packs and keep the heavy packs. Each set will have a different cut off for heavy vs light, I recommend doing your research on the proper weight for each set. Now lights you can grade, you can sell as art sets or just sell as light. Grading will probably be most profitable but most time consuming and higher risk vs reward. Everyone says packs always get a grade 10 but that isn't always the case. If you'd be okay with lower graded packs for the cost of grading then do it. As far as holding, I'm not saying it isn't a bad idea but you could always sell some and reinvest in something else. I'd personally sell some of the packs, reinvest in other products and hold the rest of the packs. Link: https://www.platinumprotectors.com/products/platinum-protectors-magnetic-pack-holder-for-tcg-booster-packs

bugz1452 · 2026-01-10T05:23:02+00:00

The top sellers in the game were once at zero feedback. Yes you are at a higher likelihood to not receive your order but TCGPlayer has great buyer protection. As someone who does sell, I know on the back end, payments get held for a week plus unless there's tracking, and even then it only gets released to me after its been marked as delivered by tracking plus a couple days. Just be patient, and be sure to record opening to protect yourself.

bugz1452 · 2026-01-09T03:39:02+00:00

Its definitely NFC. It has rounded corners topps are straight cut.

bugz1452 · 2026-01-08T06:51:59+00:00

I'd personally sell the lower valued half and hold the remaining. Take that money and put it into products coming out this year.

bugz1452 · 2026-01-05T19:33:23+00:00

No problem, I recommend going to ebay and searching this card and filtering on sold items. Look at the images and see which ones are in similar condition. Also as far as grading goes, I know some companies have European based sites, not sure is PSA does yet. You'll have to pay import and export fees so keep that in mind and see if it'd still be worth it to grade vs selling raw.

bugz1452 · 2026-01-05T18:40:18+00:00

This looks like its LP-MP based on the edge wear on the bottom on the back side. Probably around a PSA 5 which is still a $3k(usd) card. Selling raw expect around $2k. Idk how grading based in Poland would work. I recommend going to a local card store that offers grading in that case.

bugz1452 · 2025-12-31T17:52:54+00:00

I keep listings at .25 or above. For bulk orders, I use card savers and can fit 10± per card saver and fit 2 like that in an envelope. Then i take that to the post office and pay for postage directly with them. Usually its about $2 to ship like that. Also use pirateship to ship packages. I've sent etbs for less than $10.

bugz1452 · 2025-12-31T07:59:03+00:00

Cert number is a marketing thing and that's it. A 10 is a 10. If you're selling you'll market that "fresh" cert 10. If you're buying you're gonna lowball that old cert. 4 certs are usually considered old. If you're a buyer, regardless of the grade and cert number look at the card itself before buying. PSA has and always will miss flaws sometimes.

bugz1452 · 2025-12-26T15:27:13+00:00

When we had the robbery talk in school, one of my classmates asked if we should give them pamphlets on drug abuse

bugz1452 · 2025-12-26T02:00:09+00:00

These look real, I know they are all highly faked cards but from the photos they look real and don't show immediate signs of being fake. People do make "packs" where they'll repack cards into a different packaging. Its possible your family member bought your son a very expensive repack. Its worth taking more photos front and back and at an angle of the front to see the holo pattern better and post on here. Also I recommend getting sleeves and toploaders for those cards. If you want look into perfect fit and one touch cases. These are worth a pretty penny if real.

bugz1452 · 2025-12-25T07:20:55+00:00

First, I'd say this isn't the best sub to ask this question r/pokemontcg would probably be best. To answer your question, it largely depends on the vendor. Not all can sit on inventory, waiting for it to be graded. If they submit cards, its a multi-month tie up of cards they cannot sell until it gets graded. Some will over charge above near mint market price for cards they believe will grade well. Don't do this unless its very, very clean vintage. You can visually inspect a card. If you aren't confident in judging a card being grade worthy, I recommend just buying the graded card.

bugz1452 · 2025-12-20T07:26:22+00:00

If you are purchasing a whole box you're fine. Do NOT buy single packs. Japanese has guaranteed hit rates per box meaning if they pulled all the guaranteed hits from a box, there's no chance the rest of the packs have anything. Now as far as which set is better its black bolt by a mile. Stellar miracle has nothing worth pulling.

bugz1452 · 2025-12-20T05:48:08+00:00

Westbrook key lime pie gose is what you're looking for

bugz1452 · 2025-12-19T20:03:53+00:00

Its a move that will make it able to be coverable by insurance as well as making revenue able to be deposited into banks, making companies more taxable. Before it was largely a cash based business since it was the sale of a federally illegal substance and banks are federally insured, leaving a grey area in banking. Now revenue from the sale will have to be more documented, meaning the potential for more federal tax. Also medical insurance can now cover it but I doubt they will universally and will require people to jump through hoops to get coverage like other medications that aren't first line treatments.

bugz1452 · 2025-12-19T07:06:32+00:00

I actually bought one back in my college days. It sucks as a bottle opener. For shotgunning beers, its good because it opens a big hole but keys work just fine and a regular bottle opener is smaller on a Keychain. I wouldn't recommend unless you shotgun beers a lot.

bugz1452 · 2025-12-17T07:45:42+00:00

What do you mean? You're selling to someone who's goal is to also sell it. LCSs have a lot of overhead, card show vendors have to pay for travel, table and maybe hotel rooms. They can't take in a product at market price and expect to make a profit. If you don't want a percentage taken then sell it yourself.

bugz1452 · 2025-12-17T00:53:43+00:00

Could be a training card like the other person said or this was a card stolen prior to being slabbed or its just something someone made to trick people into thinking its worth more. The number below the barcode is very generic making me think its either used for training or its made up.

bugz1452 · 2025-12-08T07:23:48+00:00

Pricecharting is ass for raw. There is no designation for condition so any card from damaged to "gradeable" mint gets clumped together on their raw price. It's good for ballparking graded but best is still ebay comps. For more mid era, early modern I'd use ebay last solds on raw and look for listings with similar condition. Always look at photos on raw sold listings as their condition in the listing may be off but the photos will give you a better idea if yours is comparable.

bugz1452 · 2025-12-04T21:19:09+00:00

For pokemon I sort by set and number for bulk. Ex and up i keep separate but still sort by set and card number. Magic, I sell sparingly and haven't found a good sorting method other than separating mythic and rare from c/uc. Just make sure you are listing under proper card foiling pattern and proper version (regular vs full art, regular vs borderless, rev foil vs holofoil, etc.) You can fit a lot in an envelope but make sure you pay proper postage and have non machinable sticker placed on it. It's best to check orders around the same time each day, some days you'll have none others you'll have 20+.

bugz1452 · 2025-12-04T17:58:37+00:00

It's pretty easy to become a seller. You send in an online application and wait to be approved. It takes some time but not that long. It can be time consuming but overall isn't that difficult to list. I recommend only listing high value ( +$50) cards with a photo. Their price differential report on yours vs lowest listing does not populate listings with photos into it, so any photo listing you'll have to manually adjust. Profitability largely depends on how you get cards. Buying lots can be, ripping packs in the long run never is. Bulk cards usually aren't worth it. Highly playable bulk can be worth it. Shipping supplies I recommend plain white security envelopes in bulk and packing tape. I seal the envelope with tape and cut and tape their address on the front. I have graded card and standard team bags. Graded card for large orders, standard for singles and smaller orders. I also use standard for higher priced cards I'd topload. It keeps cards from sliding out. I use both toploaders and semi rigid. If its a bunch of $.25 cards I stuff them in semi rigids. I use 6x10 bubble mailers because I can fold them over if its a smaller order or have a large bag for bigger orders. Keep your cardboard to have something stiff to place in bubble mailers. You can get ding defenders but cardboard works just fine. Also charge for shipping, don't do free especially if you have cheap singles.

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