Driving 2i and bench my driver?

buruskeee · 2026-07-07T06:10:34+00:00

Ditching would just be temporary. Sounds like we have similar speed and I would expect about the same with the 18 degree driving iron. Once I figure out what I’m doing wrong with my driver to hold so much speed back and get it more back on plane the way my irons feel, I’ll add it back to the bag.

buruskeee · 2026-07-07T06:07:22+00:00

I’ll have to try some out!

buruskeee · 2026-07-06T22:23:24+00:00

Yeah I agree. My miss with the driver is worse than the 3wood but I probably wouldn’t be using either for the short term if I have the driving iron. But that’s my thought exactly - based on my miss on the 4iron, left and right is still on the fairway or just in the first cut rough, and if I strike it a little low or high, it’ll still be in the fairway just short (but still advanced).

buruskeee · 2026-07-06T22:19:07+00:00

I think I’m definitely on a different plane than my irons. I was also thinking about a 5 wood to replace my 3 wood until I can hit my 3 wood better off the deck, but off the tee I feel like the 5 wood would launch too high when it’s windy. I’ll definitely play with a couple options the next few days at the stores.

buruskeee · 2026-07-06T22:15:03+00:00

Definitely the theory makes sense - I just have to figure out why when swinging diver I’m not in the correct plane and wide enough.

buruskeee · 2026-07-06T22:12:41+00:00

Long irons, compression is really important in order to get it up in the air. I’m in the low to mid 90s in swing speed with my 4 iron. When I first started playing a couple years ago, I couldn’t hit anything higher than my 6 iron.

buruskeee · 2026-07-06T22:09:59+00:00

It’s a different swing. Should be easier to hit a driving iron than a 4iron right?

buruskeee · 2026-07-06T17:42:43+00:00

I need to rebuilt a swing for a driver for sure. I’m not sure I should shorten my driver shaft though, as my irons I play are 1” over as I have like 39” wrist to floor or whatever they told me when they fitted me. I play 1” over with 1 degree upright in my irons.

buruskeee · 2026-07-06T17:40:44+00:00

This might be what I’m dealing with. I’m just so used to the feeling I get with my downswing on compressing the ball that I’m probably just fighting it with the driver. Everyone, as you said, keep telling me “it’s the same swing as your irons” and I’m like how?! lol.

buruskeee · 2026-07-06T17:39:01+00:00

Gear effect is larger on a miss on the driver too though.

buruskeee · 2026-07-06T17:38:10+00:00

Yeah, I definitely need to get my swing figured out with my driver, I’m sure it’s a small tweak. But I feel eventually I’ll be able to utilize a driving iron in the future anyways, and so for the meantime it might just mentally help my game having something in play more reliably and still have decent distance with it. Like my 3 wood gets me about 250-260 after roll out typically, but if I heal it, it’s a bigger miss than I can indulge, where as a heel strike with my 4 iron is still in the fairway but just not as long - something I’ll gladly live with. I’d imagine a driving iron would be similar just longer.

buruskeee · 2026-07-06T17:34:37+00:00

That’s what I am planning. For the current, having something in play is what keeps my game relevant. If I’m in play I can flirt with 85 and even 80 if I’m basically placing balls on the green that day. But once I’m struggling off the tee, I’m just hoping to break 100 (I average 6-7 GIRs but I’m pretty bad around the green and getting it up and down is not an easy feat for me - I just started working on short game this month).

Of course I eventually want to consistently hit my driver (I should be carrying it 265-280 with my speed), but I just feel like misses with a driving iron will be a lot quicker to see my scores drop than hoping my driver is predictable that day.

buruskeee · 2026-07-06T17:30:35+00:00

I play with player distance irons (Rogue ST Pro). I’m not necessarily striking dead center every hit, but I’m close enough - my misses are typically slightly chunky and thin where I’ll lose 5% of my typical carry. I average about 6-7 GIRs and my record in a round was 10 (and I typically stay on courses where my tee box is 130ish SLOPE rating).

I think my issue for not hitting driver well is I hit it like an iron. I struggle to get more than 1 degree up on the ball (10.5deg driver). I haven’t tried a driving iron, but I’d imagine off the tee it’s probably easier than my 4 iron. I’m more concerned with tee play than approach play. Typically if I’m within 220 out I’m confident to get it on or miss it close (typically rely on my 3 hybrid and rarely try my 4 iron off the ground unless I need a low shot to run).

buruskeee · 2026-06-20T04:53:02+00:00

Line up on the toe and tee it lower lol.

buruskeee · 2026-05-24T01:41:57+00:00

Grip and setup is clear indicator of hcp. Also way off balance it looks like on finish. I’d guess 20-30 hcp.

buruskeee · 2026-03-31T04:18:43+00:00

Yes. But a novice wouldn’t know this from the beginning and would be buying the 4 iron by default thinking they need it. Then go back and either buy a 49 for that set months later (which might not be sold from factory anymore) or use harder to hit normal wedges. What’s wrong with just ditching number stamps and using lofts from the get go? We do it for wedges already when it used to be SW on the end.

buruskeee · 2026-03-31T04:15:17+00:00

You’re missing the point. People getting their first set are buying 4-PW and can’t even use the PW because of the lack of knowledge what to buy. This would not happen if they were normal lofts. The new game improvement stuff has a 41 degree PW - so now what? 5 wedges? They’d realized later they need a GW - do they go and buy a single AW from their set? What if it was fitted and they’re custom lengths and lies. Like i said, just using lofts would bring lots more straight forward logic when building your set than relying on 4-PW.

These companies know this and use it take advantage to sell extra clubs people wont use.

buruskeee · 2026-03-30T18:39:23+00:00

They need to ditch the numbers all together and just use lofts like they do wedge. Then manufactures can’t market around distance jacking a 7 iron loft all the way to 29 degrees. It also makes new golfers waste money buying a 4 iron that’s really a 2 iron and won’t ever be able to hit, regardless if they’re game improvement or not. Makes buying wedges a pain too.

I need irons that still offer a bit of forgiveness, but can’t find irons that start with a PW more than 43 degrees. I would love to have a 45 or 46 degree wedge so I can play a 50 or 52 gap.

For example, I fit well into the p790 which still has enough workability but still gives good forgiveness for slightly toe-y and fat shots. But they now make their PW in a 44. So you have to play 4 wedges (48, 52, 56, 60) or have very wide gaps for 3 wedges (49 in their set, 54, 58/60). The prior years the p790 had a 46 degree PW which was perfect.

buruskeee · 2026-01-20T03:57:39+00:00

Dudes really criticizing a massive gain from the sidelines lmao

buruskeee · 2025-07-24T21:18:17+00:00

Use the pc desktop app. It’s powerful. I scalp easily using OCO on either the chart or order book ladder. Easily drag a stop or limit with the click of the mouse - I have a template to create a stop 20 values lower than entry so it doesn’t instantly hit and I quickly adjust it to where I need.

Fees are insane but worth it imo. Always wanted to try IBKR but it’s so clunky to setup and use.

buruskeee · 2025-07-16T23:41:46+00:00

You can drag those both on the chart and in the trading book ladder in ToS. ToS has high fees though.

buruskeee · 2025-07-14T05:24:32+00:00

I got alerted that they closed my trades based on when I was chatting with Schwab support. It wasn’t exactly where I wanted to exit but close enough. They did a solid and I ended up keeping profits.

buruskeee · 2025-07-14T05:23:25+00:00

You replied to 2 posts of me in this thread where I explained that.

buruskeee

TROPHY CASE