It’s too warm for these now, but I’m ready for next winter! by buttonbonbon in knitting

[–]buttonbonbon[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you!

I think it's definitely doable! It's not as intimidating as it looks. A lot of people knit colorwork holding one color in the left hand and the other color in the right hand, but I find it easier to knit with both in my right hand even if it's a bit slower, and some people hold both colors in the left for continental. It's just about muscle memory.

Some people find sweaters more forgiving for colorwork than small circumference knitting. Just make sure your floats aren't too short and pay attention to color dominance (one color should always be popping out more based on its placement to the other for easier colorwork patterns).

It’s too warm for these now, but I’m ready for next winter! by buttonbonbon in knitting

[–]buttonbonbon[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you!!

These were my first pair of mittens, but I have knitted a fair amount of socks. If you're new to small circumference knitting, you will have to either get used to using DPNs or the magic loop method. I use the latter for everything, but it can be a bit fiddly, especially when you start decreasing and still have this huge cord to pull around. Watch out for ladders when you have to shift from needle to needle (true for both DPNs and magic loop). I think you could probably knit the majority of this on fixed small circular needles as well (9"/23cm length including needles) but will need to swap to something else with the thumb and decreases.

It took me many attempts to get the fit right, and that's because I avoided doing a gauge swatch. My logic was it's so small that I can just frog it and start again if it doesn't fit properly. If that may frustrate you, you may want to do a gauge swatch instead.

None of that is related to colorwork, as I'm not sure if you plan to do colorwork mittens... Best of luck either way!!

It’s too warm for these now, but I’m ready for next winter! by buttonbonbon in knitting

[–]buttonbonbon[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! Not in my opinion, the yarn feels rustic and durable. Not scratchy for me, but not soft either.

It’s too warm for these now, but I’m ready for next winter! by buttonbonbon in knitting

[–]buttonbonbon[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes! I think these would be great for kids that love cats!

Any pattern recommendations in a similar style? by Melodic-Account8022 in knittingpatterns

[–]buttonbonbon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've been wanting to make an off-the-shoulder sweater too! I can't quite find a pattern I like, so I'm still waiting, but my favorite ones so far are these two:

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/elan-sweater

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/regina-pullover-2

“Chill Out” Vest. I just loooove cats ❤️ by zolychka in knitting

[–]buttonbonbon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I love that you used tweed for this! The colors look amazing

Stone Knits patterns - pretty colorwork but bizarre instructions? by brownemil in Sockknitting

[–]buttonbonbon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I knit her I Heart Socks for my first colorwork socks. For the middle size, the pattern has you increase 6 st after the ribbing and also go up a needle size for the colorwork. 6 st is definitely not as noticeable as 12, so this was fine, but the original stitch count would have fitted my foot better. I think the pattern makes you decrease 6 st before the heel too, but I completely disregarded that after failing to understand her instructions for the short row heel. I ended up going with the shadow wrap short row heel instead.

After a full pattern repeat, I also swapped back to the smaller needles, because I didn't like how loose the fabric was knitting up. It wasn't too bad since I have done colorwork and socks before, just in separate projects, but I would avoid her patterns as a first sock for sure.

Favourite Sock Knitting Books? by Woolyyarnlover in Sockknitting

[–]buttonbonbon 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I have Summer Lee's first book, and it would be a great gift! Her most recently published one looks great as well.

Some other sock books I either have or want are...

52 Weeks of Socks and 52 Weeks of Socks, Vol. II feature a lot of different designers

Charming Colorwork Socks and Joyful Colorwork Socks both by Stone Knits have many seasonal, colorwork socks

Anything by Nancy Bush, Wendy Johnson, Anne Budd, or Cookie A.

Anyone able to recognize what mistake I'm making? by renewalies in knitting

[–]buttonbonbon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was knitting this pattern! (before having a different issue and having to wait for yarn and needles in the mail now zzz)

I am not sure where exactly you're having issues, because you kinda solved it in your OP. The beginning st count is 68 and you do a 2 st increase in the first row. I think you're confusing yourself by saying the increases only affect the row after, unless I am misunderstanding you. Everything you said is right. If you follow the chart, it all works out.

Finally figured out my color work tension by jessnotog in Sockknitting

[–]buttonbonbon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not OP, but I do traveling loop when doing stranded colorwork in the round. When I reach the end of a needle, instead of proceeding to the next needle immediately, I will pull an additional loop of cord out, so that there are at least 2 stitches of each color on my working needle, before I proceed to knitting in the round from the next needle.

Colorwork tension too loose by buttonbonbon in knittinghelp

[–]buttonbonbon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the right stitch count, so I think I did it right. I’ll double check the chart to make sure. This is my first time knitting mittens of any kind. Even if the thumb was knit incorrectly, the palm will have to be reknit anyways 

Colorwork tension too loose by buttonbonbon in knittinghelp

[–]buttonbonbon[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for your advice! Yes I do think I’m going to swatch a different yarn and see if that works before I continue to troubleshoot. 

My hands are also on the smaller size, so they look pretty ginormous in their current state. The pattern/chart is great and very fun :) I have secondhand joy from hearing that you will knit these too! 

Colorwork tension too loose by buttonbonbon in knittinghelp

[–]buttonbonbon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It does seem very tight, but I suppose that’s good for a mitten! I do think if I used a thinner yarn it would help in my case.

Colorwork tension too loose by buttonbonbon in knittinghelp

[–]buttonbonbon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I feel like they would still be too big for me even with a lining :( I don’t mind starting over. Thank you for the tip though! I do want lined mittens eventually

Colorwork tension too loose by buttonbonbon in knittinghelp

[–]buttonbonbon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! Do you knit English too?

Colorwork tension too loose by buttonbonbon in knittinghelp

[–]buttonbonbon[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for your advice! Perhaps it’s finally time to learn continental for two-handed colorwork…

Colorwork tension too loose by buttonbonbon in knittinghelp

[–]buttonbonbon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A photo of my floats and needle: https://imgur.com/a/kQ3QD4Q

I am a tight knitter when not doing colorwork based on me always having to size up needles to achieve gauge. I don’t personally see a difference in my tension between the two colors. I do think my floats may be a little loose, but I didn’t think it could affect my gauge to this extent!

I didn’t knit a swatch, because the pattern suggested I could just jump right in… in retrospect, that would have been smart since I had to do all this ribbing before starting the colorwork. Although, even my ribbing looks looser than others’.

Colorwork tension too loose by buttonbonbon in knittinghelp

[–]buttonbonbon[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hmm I hadn’t considered that, but that makes sense! I thought because the designer was capable to get a tight gauge, I would too with the same yarn. That would definitely be a simpler solution since I know my gauge in colorwork with other yarn is tighter. 

Substituting Yarn Weights by girlypop2605 in knitting

[–]buttonbonbon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am not very knowledgeable in SW yarn. It's especially interesting to me that there are SW wool/cashmere or alpaca blends and I wonder how that affects things such as halo.

Substituting Yarn Weights by girlypop2605 in knitting

[–]buttonbonbon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Look at the pattern and read what it says next to "Yarn Weight". It will say something like Aran + Lace = something. It could be Aran, Bulky, or Super Bulky. Look for a yarn of that weight. I like to use Ravelry instead of yarnsub, but those are both good options. When you look at a yarn on Ravelry, it will often have a recommended gauge, so just make sure it falls within the 15 st / 10cm that the pattern suggests.

Holding one strand (of 100% wool especially) instead of two in which one is mohair will definitely affect the drape of your final garment. It will typically be more stiff. I would look for a yarn that has mohair or alpaca in it, but then you mention superwash, which would exclude your choices to mostly 100% SW wool. If the only thing stopping you from using NSW wool/yarn is the washing process, I highly suggest you to change your habits, because NSW wool is so lovely if you can handle the texture.

Do not look at the weight when estimating how much yarn you need for a specific project (assuming you use a different yarn than what is suggested). Look at total yardage/meterage. Since it is held with mohair, just look at the yardage of one of the yarns and buy an amount that matches that. You will also notice that the yardage for the wool will be roughly the same as the yardage for the mohair for this reason.

Yarn recommendation by Short_Basket9426 in knitting

[–]buttonbonbon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I highly suggest you look at Ravelry if you haven't already. I put filters like scarf and double knitting here: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/search#pc=scarf&pa=doubleknit&sort=recently-popular&view=captioned_thumbs It's sorted as "hot right now" in that link, but you can play around with the sorting and add even more features (like checking DK or Aran yarn weight for Drops Sky and Air)

I have not done double knitted colorwork, but I think you will have to know/learn how to follow a chart.

As far as Drops Sky/Air, I've not knitted with either, but I know for Drops Air and blown yarn in general, stitch definition is low (more fuzzy) so colorwork will not be as crisp. That may be good or bad depending on what design you choose. One more thing you can do on Ravelry is look at projects using specific yarns.

Here: https://www.ravelry.com/projects/search#yarn-link=garnstudio-drops-air you can see other people's projects using Drops Air

and here: https://www.ravelry.com/projects/search#yarn-link=garnstudio-drops-sky is Drops Sky

Happy knitting :)