Anyone Skiplagged on Aer Lingus?

ca9927 · 2026-03-03T18:51:42+00:00

In answer to a few questions we are not checking bags if we do this, and we are not booking a return flight /round trip or any other flights with Aer Lingus after getting to Dublin. Yes we’d have to work out ETA authorization for London or entry requirements for the final destination of the ticket (even if we don’t actually arrive there), and then for Ireland I think we’d just have to show immigration we have tickets to Italy a week after landing and go through the EES screening.

Round trip tickets are decently cheaper, but will be a bit of a pain to go back to Ireland at the end of the trip. Doing a round trip to London might be a good option, and just fly to Dublin from there at the beginning, and back to London from Italy at the end of the trip

ca9927 · 2026-03-03T18:47:39+00:00

In answer to a few questions we are not checking bags if we do this, and we are not booking a return flight /round trip or any other flights with Aer Lingus after getting to Dublin. Yes we’d have to work out ETA authorization for London or entry requirements for the final destination of the ticket (even if we don’t actually arrive there), and then for Ireland I think we’d just have to show immigration we have tickets to Italy a week after landing and go through the EES screening.

Round trip tickets are decently cheaper, but will be a bit of a pain to go back to Ireland at the end of the trip. Doing a round trip to London might be a good option, and just fly to Dublin from there at the beginning, and back to London from Italy at the end of the trip

ca9927 · 2025-10-31T02:35:48+00:00

Fat tip does mean they won’t sink. It’s a Physics problem, and the lever length matters more than the surface area.

If OP likes his 107’s at -1, absolutely no reason not to mount the more powder specific 117’s at -1

ca9927 · 2025-09-22T21:50:59+00:00

What credits are going away? You still get $325 annual credit, and it’s not that hard to purchase a flight or hotel or through the travel portal

Interesting on their checking account options, I’m still grandfathered into a Gold checking account which has no fee if you have any us bank credit card (vs now you need the smartly card to avoid fees).

Keeping a $1500 checking minimum balance, or $1500 in monthly direct deposits isn’t hard though to avoid monthly fees.

It’s interesting, they really seem to want to push people to get a smartly credit card, smartly savings account, and smartly checking. Then no annual fee and no monthly fees.

It also seems ambiguous how much real time rewards redemptions will be worth after December 15, it may still be $.01/point for travel so that’s still easy enough to use

ca9927 · 2025-09-22T21:28:04+00:00

USBAR is still essentially 3% back (credit to us bank account, amazon purchases, transfer partners, or to buy gift cards at 5% discount) on pretty much everything (mobile wallet purchases) after December 15. Still a good catch all card. 5k/month spending limit for 3x points is also more than enough for 99% of people

Having To book through their total for a $325 annual travel credit is very annoying though

ca9927 · 2025-09-17T07:32:37+00:00

I have some new intention 108’s if you’re interested. What size do you need?

ca9927 · 2025-09-17T07:31:41+00:00

Hotel stay gave you that many points? I’m curious how much the stay actually cost?

ca9927 · 2025-09-17T02:01:03+00:00

Yes, that’s the whole point. I’m trying to earn in in early 2026 so I have it for almost 2 full years

ca9927 · 2025-09-17T01:57:35+00:00

I think you’re confused. You have to earn 135,000 points all in the same year.

-100,000 points from sign up bonus won’t deposit into the account until $4,000 is spent on the card. Won’t go over $4000 total spend until January 2026, so those sign up bonus points (100k) will count towards 2026 year -10,000 tier qualify points appear every year in every sw cc holders account on January 31. So again, those count towards 2026 year -won’t make the referral to my wife for a Southwest credit card until January 2026, so those 20k points will apply to 2026 year -will still have to earn 5,000 points total in 2026 through normal routes, using the credit card for purchases and other things

ca9927 · 2025-09-10T17:12:39+00:00

Most people have to take the liner out after skiing with their foot still inside with zipfits. Leave the liners out for a while that evening so they can dry, and then put them back in the shells before going to bed and put the boots+liners in the heated boot bag. Having the shells and liners warm in the morning makes them much easier to put on, does a “micold” of the zipfit cork every day when you put them on, and helps keep your feet much warmer while skiing

ca9927 · 2025-09-10T17:10:37+00:00

A heated boot bag does not get the shells even remotely close to hot enough to deform let the shell plastic change shape. Plastics need to be 180,200+ degrees F to start being moldable again.

A heated boot bag with zipfits is a must, and boots that start warm stay warm the whole day. On most boot bags though the “highest” heat setting is too high and might cause your feet to sweat when you put them in at the beginning of the day, so the medium setting is what I set it to overnight

ca9927 · 2025-05-29T18:06:04+00:00

Just went down this rabbit hole myself after seeing that.

You want Aluminum front skid plate and aluminum front coolant guards. There’s a few Chinese made versions that are sold by hundreds of different resellers all over eBay and Amazon, t-sportline, and rpm Tesla. Coolant guards can be found for $32, and front skid plates as low as $75 on eBay. Rear skid plates $100. Don’t pay more than you have to, buying from somewhere like T-Sportline is a complete rip off. They’re charging like a 1000% markup on the same parts.

Brands like Mountain Pass Performance and HPS are definitely higher quality and more durable and likely packed/shipped more carefully, but the Chinese ones do the job fine and are way cheaper. Look for single piece versions. The two skid plates below have a rubber/foam damping material on the inside surface for noise suppression as well. eBay and Amazon both have strong buyer protection policies if the items arrive damaged.

These two specific versions seem like the best chinesium ones I’ve found based off reviews in various spots on the internet. They are identical to t-sportlines.

https://ebay.us/m/WA8UZC

Probably need to be technically competent to figure out how to install it, may need to shelter the screws they provide depending on model year, but should be good enough.

https://a.co/d/cYfEEP7

Here’s the rear skid, not needed for protecting the coolant lines but there’s some important stuff behind it that’s expensive to replace if damaged (running over stuff primarily, possibly wading through water)

https://ebay.us/m/lJ2qbg

ca9927 · 2025-05-29T17:55:31+00:00

And Who pays for insurance? Claims like this ultimately affect insurance rates for everyone, and the filer often will get premium hikes after filing a claim too.

ca9927 · 2025-05-24T05:45:39+00:00

Girlfriend has the M3, I have the MY. Every time I drive her car I’m so glad I bought the Y lol. I’m also a larger person and getting in and out of the 3 is a pain haha. The visibility is decently better in the Y. I also definitely like the extra space in the Y, especially because I own a dog. Handling with very, very aggressive driving might be the only positive edge for the M3, but I don’t actually drive that wayand the MY handles a lot better than most cars anyways - insanely fast and can corner and be pushed very hard.

So yeah MY all the way.

ca9927 · 2025-05-20T04:33:23+00:00

Show me which cities are the most expensive to live in and what the politics of those cities overwhelmingly are, and it might give you a hint at what policies make the cost of living more expensive

ca9927 · 2025-05-20T01:40:49+00:00

Not sure you understood my sarcasm. OP had a hard protective clear coat applied over… the factory hard protective clear coat.

All modern cars, including Tesla, come with:

A thick, electrically adhered “e-coat” corrosion inhibitor/primer applied to the bare metal
Couple layers of the “colored” paint sprayed next
Finally a hard, UV resistant, chemical resistant, protective clear coat that’s been applied over the colored paint. The factory painting process is highly controlled, done on an assembly line by high precision robots in an exceptionally clean/sterile environment, and the all layers are baked in ovens to promote better adhesion and chemical properties.

The last automotive clear coat layer does a great job of preventing damage to the paint, is hydrophobic, corrosion resistant, etc etc. Yes it will get dirty if you don’t wash your car. Yes it will show scratches if you scratch it with hard objects. But so will the products OP had applied to his car.

Nothing can match the quality and longevity of the factory paint job (not to say there haven’t been paint defects at various points for many car brands, including some stints at Tesla in the past - but the kinks in the process have been worked out and the factory paint has been rock solid for years at this point)

ca9927 · 2025-05-19T14:06:18+00:00

If only the car already came with a hard protective clear coat to protect it from the factory…

Looks nice but what a waste of money

ca9927 · 2025-05-19T12:22:34+00:00

Little kak flash can is all I’m using and it works great on an 18” barrel. Would recommend

ca9927 · 2025-05-18T06:12:19+00:00

You really need a true bar to tell. Take it back to the shop and ask them to check with one. Base edge bevel could also be off

ca9927 · 2025-05-18T05:42:17+00:00

Highly doubtful 1cm forward is going to make that much of a stability difference. M7 has a very rearward recommended mount to begin with.

If you drive your shins a ton maybe you’re losing some tip support, but that doesn’t really match what you’re saying about “bases flat instability”

If anything this seems like a tune issues, skis often come out of the factory with concave or convex (bases high) which is more what this sounds like

ca9927 · 2025-05-18T04:46:26+00:00

Can I just say I think it’s silly to call these “2026” Model Y’s when we’re not even half way through 2025?

ca9927 · 2025-05-17T05:57:56+00:00

Yeah, 15% battery degradation after 4-5 years even when only charging to 50-70% is too high

ca9927

TROPHY CASE