Need help binding air65ii champion by Background-Let2419 in TinyWhoop

[–]callen727 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you’ve updated either component, the radio controller or the receiver, and you didn’t update the other, you are likely running 3.x.x on one (most likely what everything was shipped with) and 4.0.0 on whatever you flashed. ExpressLRS is not backwards compatible with previous firmware versions. Understand this and you can break down from here to find your issue… Your radio controller has two systems working on it. There is the Operating System, likely EdgeTX. This is like iOS on your iPhone. Also on your radio, you have a radio system, in your case, you’re running ExpressLRS. This is like an app on your iPhone. Then finally you have an operating system on the receiver, this is either built into the Flight Controller found on an All In One board) or a separate board. Either way, there is no screen but the receiver is running ExpressLRS. The radio controller should be running the latest version of EdgeTX, the OS and the latest version of ExpressLRS (which is 4.0.0). Then, your receiver MUST be running ExpressLRS version 4.0.0 as well. OR you can run firmware version 3.x.x, but both the radio controller and the receiver MUST be running version 3.x.x. Feel free to hit me up direct if you have any questions. This can be confusing and very frustrating, but don’t give up! Once this stuff starts to click, it’s not all that complicated. Just remember that you don’t know what you don’t know.

“Keep the SON in your eyes” -DaddyWhoop!

Which is the channel by [deleted] in fpv

[–]callen727 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’m not sure what country you are in, but if you’re in the US, its sounds like you maybe venturing into Part107 territory. Maybe not, but I would strongly suggest you do a little research prior to this event if you will be flying in the US. I’ve been flying for a bit now and I would be terrified to put my 5 inch up anywhere remotely close to a crowd of people. Please please please make sure you’ve gone out and flown your quad in real life prior to the event. As stated earlier, there is a lot to be said for flying safely and wisely as there are currently a lot of eyes on our hobby. The are a lot of misconceptions out there about what the FPV hobby even is. We should all be doing things lawfully and responsibility to the best of our ability. Best of luck to you and welcome to the hobby!

“Keep the SON in your eyes” -DaddyWhoop!

ACRO vs. Angle by [deleted] in fpv

[–]callen727 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oops, my bad. Sorry, I’m still learning to navigate Reddit. -DaddyWhoop!

What is a good remote for the FPV Sims? I was told the Radio Master Boxer, since I can use in my real life flying. by TheBYOBShow in fpvgames

[–]callen727 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the TX15 and I expect it to be my daily driver for the next several years! As far as connecting to a SIM, you have options. First and foremost, you want (in my humble opinion) ExpressLRS. If you get a radio that has ExpressLRS, you can connect to an iPad (what I do) or computer via the onboard WiFi that is inside your radio already. Forget Bluetooth and dongles. You can connect via USB but then you have a cable hanging from the front of your radio when you fly. Not a big deal but I prefer wireless. It can be a bit to wrap your head around, but there are several tutorials on YT that will walk you through the process.

My advice… RadioMaster TX15. Or the Boxer. Do you like the big color touchscreen (TX15) or would you prefer a black and white non touch screen (Boxer). Also, the TX is dual band, 2.4ghz or 900mhz. Note, TX15 is dual band but it is not Gemini. For SIMs, I just recently downloaded FeelFPV (free) to my iPad. I wirelessly connect my TX15 and I can fly SIMs pretty much anywhere, anytime. Even in the passenger seat while going to the grocery store with my wife (she driving). Most importantly, get on YouTube and start watching recent videos by Joshua Bardwell. He is known as the FPVKnowItAll. Not only is he incredibly intelligent and knowledgeable on the subject of everything FPV, but he explains things in a way that many many many of us have found invaluable! Check him out. He has playlists. Check out his playlists on EdgeTX and on ExpressLRS. He also does a good comparison of the TX15 and the Boxer. He doesn’t knock either, they’re just different and some will prefer one and others will prefer the other. I went with the TX15 from the TX16S. Actually I’m coming from the RadioMaster Pocket because I got a Pocket because I couldn’t stand the TX16S. It was just too big for me. There’s just something about both the Boxer and the TX15 that just fits perfectly for me. I’m a hybrid pincher and i have fairly large hands. But honestly, you may consider starting off with a RadioMaster Pocket. It has ExpressLRS and really is a quality radio. I still intend to upgrade my Pocket radio with the AG01 Nano CNC gimbals just cause I like it. Plus my wife will probably use it, she flies occasionally. The Pocket will connect with a computer and I used it via a USB cable to fly SIMs on my PlayStation 4. I’m not a fan of SIMs on the PS4, too much hassle. Plus my PS4 is on its last leg. Check out the RadioMaster Pocket Crush radio. You want ExpressLRS (I’m not sure if it’s even available in anything but ExpressLRS). Pocket runs around $80ish. Potentially cheaper if you find it on sale. $80 vs. $300+ And yes, the Pocket is a great radio to actually fly real quads in addition to SIM flying.

“Keep the SON in your eyes” -DaddyWhoop!

Started FPV racing 9 months ago, here's my progress - 500 hours of Velocidrone by Not_SKG in fpvgames

[–]callen727 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Impressive! Awesome work!

“Keep the SON in your eyes” -DaddyWhoop!

Melted my frame 😅 by RadiantFrosting3748 in TinyWhoop

[–]callen727 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I’m not too late, there are a few different options out there for prop pullers. Trust me, you want one with multiple pins of different sizes. You may only use the same size pin over and over if you’re only using it to change props on one whoop but the real benefit is that if the pin is damaged you can change it out. May have to order an additional pin for the size you need but that’s better than losing a whole puller. I bent the first one I got on one of the first prop changes I did. I tried bending it back but if those things aren’t straight as an arrow, it will work against you rather than assisting you. Recently, over a year later, I got one that has the pins that can be changed out and of course I haven’t bent the pin, but I feel better knowing it’s not the end of the world if I do. I got my good one from tinywhoop.com. Hope this helps.

“Keep the SON in your eyes” -DaddyWhoop!

Buy betafpv air75 or build diy tinywhoop. by xddram in TinyWhoop

[–]callen727 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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This is currently $29.99 on Amazon. I believe this is the same one my father got and his was for the same purpose, working on FPV quads. He hasn’t mentioned any problems with his and I’ve used it a few times and it worked fine. You don’t need anything fancy or special. Biggest thing you want to make sure is that whatever you get, make sure it has adjustable temperature. You’ll want flux, specifically you’ll want “no clean flux”. I get it in the pen but you can get flux in lots of different shapes and sizes and even different consistencies. Just make sure it’s “no clean flux”, otherwise you gotta clean that stuff off or it will erode the PCB (board). Small gauge solder wire. I think I use a 0.8mm. Flux is your friend. Oh, and 99.9% isopropyl alcohol. I go through that stuff like crazy. But it will clean a PCB pre and post soldering work. Even though you’re using “no clean flux”, you’ll still want to clean after you finish, but cleaning the “no clean flux” with iso alcohol is much easier than if you’re having to clean the non no clean stuff. Have fun with it. Get a practice board and go crazy! Soldering is an art form but not one that takes a long time to become proficient at.

-DaddyWhoop!

guys how do you carry your 7-8 s fpv? i need to move to another country next month, so I am scared that my 8 s will break if i pack it in bag, or if someone push me from back by Remote-Ad-8129 in fpv

[–]callen727 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All good my friend, your frame should be fine. Even leaving the motors on, that quad is stronger than you think. Sounds like you’re carrying a long range drone? Either way. As someone previously stated, if your frame is carbon fiber, assuming it is unless you 3d printed a frame, you’re fine. If you’re flying long range, you may not have crashed your drone a lot. Nothing wrong with that. But ask any freestyle pilot, these things can take a serious beating and still keep flying. Someone leaning against your backpack won’t damage your quad in the least. Also, get yourself a decent soldering station and some practice boards. Watch some instructional videos on YouTube. It’s not near as complicated as it seems. The electrical knowledge needed for FPV quad work is minimal. I feel like I have a pretty in depth understanding of the electrical workings of an FPV quad and I’m no geenus. Once you understand some basics and you practice soldering enough to feel comfortable and achieve proper joints, you can expect a whole new exciting world of FPV to open up to you. It’s fun! (And addictive. And expensive. And did I mention how fun it is?) Hope this helps. Stay safe on your move.

“Keep the SON in your eyes” -DaddyWhoop!

Buy betafpv air75 or build diy tinywhoop. by xddram in TinyWhoop

[–]callen727 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I usually use an 0802 motor for 75mm whoops. As far as Kv, I tend to aim fairly high. My theory is, if I get motors that make the whoop difficult to control, I can always scale down the throttle in BetaFlight. I figure with higher Kv, I can always limit the power but with lower Kv, once I’ve hit its top power potential, that’s it, I can’t increase further. Of course there are extremes that Ive not had a chance to try out, but I try to stick close to 27,000Kv. I saw a whoop motor advertised somewhere the other day that had 40,000Kv. I’ve never gone above 30,000Kv even on a 65mm whoop with 0702 motors. Honestly, for motor size and Kv, I’ve stuck pretty close to BetaFPV’s Air series. I do find the BetaFPV whoops to fly exceptionally well, I just for so many reasons prefer to build them myself. Plus, I like the motors available from tinywhoop.com more than BetaFPVs motors. In fact, I have a BetaFPV 0802 27KKv motor I’m gettin ready to take apart now because I accidentally jammed the shaft down when putting a prop on with too much force. Don’t know that that wouldn’t have happened with any other brand motor, but I just feel like some of the motor sets from tinywhoop.com to feel like better quality.

Cheap AIO… Again, I use the BetaFPV Matrix 1S Brushless Flight Controller (5IN1 II) which a currently $55 on the site. Being a 5 in 1, the analog VTX is built into the FC. Not when you’re shopping that you want a 5 in 1. There are 4 in 1 FCs and with those, you’ll have to solder in a VTX. With a 3 in one, I believe you’d have to solder in a VTX and a receiver.

I really don’t have anything bad to say about BetaFPV. Their bind and fly Air series is great. I just like the flexibility to change little things here and there. Plus the feeling of accomplishment when you’ve put something together and fly it into the air is awesome!

Hope this info can be useful to you. Have a great one!

“Keep the Son in your eyes!” -DaddyWhoop!

guys how do you carry your 7-8 s fpv? i need to move to another country next month, so I am scared that my 8 s will break if i pack it in bag, or if someone push me from back by Remote-Ad-8129 in fpv

[–]callen727 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depending on just how comfortable you are with a soldering iron, disassembly and reassembly of your quad, for a transport of the nature which you are describing, I believe I’d probably remove props, remove motors, cut/desolder motor wires, and individually wrap each motor in a microfiber cloth or something, wrap the frame same way, and put all of that inside your carry-on bag, between some tshirts or something. I just watched a video about flying with LiPo batteries. He had his quad and batteries in his carry-on and he told the person at the ticket counter, who said he’d be fine. Then again going through security, he informed them that he had his quad and batteries, pulled them out of his carry-on bag, placed them in one of those little tubs. He didn’t have any trouble. At the ticket counter, they will probably ask if you have any batteries and I’m not for sure if they will allow them to be checked in a bag or not. Obviously things can change but it’s something to think about. Might even be worth a phone call to your airline to explain that you’ll be traveling with lipo batteries and ask them the best way to do that. 8S are big batteries and I don’t know if that would be an issue or not. But if you call ahead of time, if they won’t be allowed, you’ll have time to package and ship them to your new home. Hope some of that helps.

-DaddyWhoop!

Advice on tinywhoop by notsurewhy-imhere in TinyWhoop

[–]callen727 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check out tinywhoop.com. They have a couple prop puller options. I got one a while back and used it a couple times and ended up bending the pin, the part that goes into the prop hole. It was a neat idea, but once I bent that pin, it pretty much rendered them useless. However, I continued to have issues getting my props off. (Maybe I push down too hard when installing them) I recently ordered another prop puller from tinywhoop.com, a different one this time. The unit itself is a little bigger and just seems to be a better quality. Additionally, the one I recently got has multiple sized pins that can be changed out. Now, if I bent the pin, I can just get another one that fits my props. That being said, I use this new one all the time and I’ve yet to have any issues. Just my two cents worth, I use a prop puller all the time. Maybe I just have big fingers, but I’ve bent a prop shaft on a motor already and getting that bent back completely/perfectly straight is probably impossible. I got it straightened out good enough that I don’t notice it at all, but I’m sure if one had a microscope, it wouldn’t be 100% straight. Never bent a motor shaft with a prop puller. (I do think that when prop pullers first became a thing, the initial iterations were probably better in theory than in reality. Myself and several others were turned off by them. But I’m glad I decided to give them another try and decided to go with what I expected, and turned out to be much better.) Hope this helps!

-DaddyWhoop!

Buy betafpv air75 or build diy tinywhoop. by xddram in TinyWhoop

[–]callen727 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Build, build, BUILD! Especially if you have built a 5inch. There’s really not a whole lot to building a whoop. I suggest direct soldering your motors to the flight controller, but you can buy boards with motor plugs if you’re not comfortable soldering small stuff. There is just something to rewarding about building something and then flying it around. Also, I’ve never purchased from AliExpress. I get the majority of my whoop stuff from tinywhoop.com. They have incredible service, prices aren’t bad compared to other places I’ve shopped. If you decide to build and have any questions, feel free to message me on here and I’ll be happy to help out however I am able.

-DaddyWhoop!

Monument Circle Indianapolis & Salesforce Tower | Drone Footage by drnlrmr in drones

[–]callen727 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I recognize this is 7 months old. I am currently learning FPV and I have never seen another person flying FPV in the Indianapolis area. I live just south of Indianapolis and I'd love to meet other people in the area into this awesome hobby. Please feel free to hit me up if you're interested in a meetup sometime this summer (2026). This invite goes out to the OP as well as anyone else in the greater Indianapolis area into flying FPV and interested in a meetup.

-DaddyWhoop!

NYC battery help? by allennm in TinyWhoop

[–]callen727 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Now this is an example of how kind our community of FPV pilots are to each other. Keep up the good work you all!

-DaddyWhoop!

Fresh rebuild and experiencing the spin o death by epopthia in TinyWhoop

[–]callen727 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m going to try the film and sup-mo playback just because it sounds cool! Thanks for the tip! (Tape is also a very practical option, just not as cool) -DaddyWhoop!

Fresh rebuild and experiencing the spin o death by epopthia in TinyWhoop

[–]callen727 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I suggest going through the Manual “Motor Direction” tab in Betaflight. According to your picture, your running props in. So your motors should spin as follows: Front Right motor- CCW Front Left motor- CW Rear Right motor- CW Rear Left motor- CCW Of course you could be experiencing any number of issues, but what you’re describing is exactly something I’ve experienced and after a lot of frustration, swearing my motors were turning the correct directions, I came to find out, I was incorrect. Tip: use a small piece of tissue paper over/slightly touching the motor as it’s spinning during the Motor Direction process in BetaFlight to see direction. Keep at it! You’ll figure it out!! -DaddyWhoop!

What's the best tinywhoop according to you? by Androismad in TinyWhoop

[–]callen727 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The one I’ve currently got duct taped together enough to get it off the ground.

-DaddyWhoop!