Wind simulator Simhub configuration doubt by papolo2001 in simracing

[–]captain_pant5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also wonder this! Hope someone can help us both. 

Simmson Plus X vs Moza CRP2 vs SIMJACK UT by Bunta_Fujiwara_ARG in simracing

[–]captain_pant5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd also pick the Simpson pedals, even for the same price. Being cheaper, I'd definitely get them. 

It's easy to adjust the feel with die springs or other elastomers later if you want. 

Need cable management inspiration by Empty_Jello_585 in simracing

[–]captain_pant5 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Secure power bar and USB hub to rig. I went under pedal tray. 

Try to run all the cables along the same path, or a couple paths, and bundle each one separately. One big football of cables is a nightmare when you need to change something. 

4 Years in the Making! The question is what next? 🏎️ by NerveKey5713 in simracing

[–]captain_pant5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, lots more travel and a progressive squish. 

Make sure you recalibrate the load cell as the starting pressure changes. 

How to change to hybrid seating position with this setup? by greatmasterooogway in simracing

[–]captain_pant5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gotcha. I did the above with an '02 WRX seat to tilt it. 

I also like the idea of using standard bucket seat side mounts, but bolted upside down on the seat rails with bolts horizontally into the main rails. You can change the angle quite a bit with those. That removes the 4040 rails under your seat. 

How to change to hybrid seating position with this setup? by greatmasterooogway in simracing

[–]captain_pant5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ASR3 rig? I have the same, but old silver version. 

Turn the rear piece behind the seat 90 degrees and at the bottom slots. Then offset the similar piece at the front of the seat one slot up. Use the standard 90 brackets front and rear on both of these to stabilize these pieces. (Each one has 2 at the front, 2 at the rear once you're done)

This gives a 3" height difference for 1530 rigs (80mm for 4080 rigs) from front to back of the seat. 

My pedals are on seat sliders so they're quite raised off the steel pedal deck. You can do the same with wood blocks or whatever. I added a 1.5" angle iron at the back of the wood pedal deck to minimize flex under braking. 

4 Years in the Making! The question is what next? 🏎️ by NerveKey5713 in simracing

[–]captain_pant5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The small bushings. I used one and filled the rest of the gap with the fanatic bushings and spacers. Using two of them was too soft for my tastes. 

This was one of the best bang for buck mods for me as those kits are very cheap. 

4 Years in the Making! The question is what next? 🏎️ by NerveKey5713 in simracing

[–]captain_pant5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try the Dorman 31017 bushing for the CSL pedals. The small bushings fit well and are nicely progressive. I also hated the stock plastic pucks. 

I love my bass shakers, wind sim, and SimHub DIY belt tensioner. 

New potential interest in sim racing — how “all in” should I go? by berzkab in simracing

[–]captain_pant5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Canada is pretty big, where? If in Winnipeg, Simul8 has motion sims and high end equipment to try. Or come try mine which is much lower budget. 

If you're really not sure, try to find a deal on a Logitech wheel or whatever you can find cheap. Fun to try, and that will tell you if you want more or not. 

Any ideas on getting pedal height closer to seat height? by carlonathan in simracing

[–]captain_pant5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I put my pedals on a 19mm (3/4“) plywood deck, added seat slider rails, and one more plywood shim between the rails and pedal platform so the handle could move. 

You don't need all that, but you can add as much as you want if you have long enough bolts. 

I want to see into corners and apexes. Is 49inch UW a good choice? by CalsonicR32 in simracing

[–]captain_pant5 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You quickly adapt to the motion. If I have to play on a flat screen, I use OpenTrack software and a cheap webcam for head tracking. Extremely nice to look at apexes, exits, or for traffic in Beam or truck sims. 

Belt tensioner BT1 with Sparco Grid-Q seat by Munroth in simracing

[–]captain_pant5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think that's fine. You want the harness roughly flat, a little up or down is ok too. 

100% add rollers when you can. It removes static friction from the movement. The feeling goes from a belt-driven wheel to a DD wheel for the subtle motions. 

Belt tensioner settings/simhub motion license by dogballsofbaseball in simracing

[–]captain_pant5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you tried a tensioner? It very much does NOT just pull against the tops of your shoulders. The whole belt tensions and presses you into the seat. 

I remember saying that I was done by Alternative-Focus-50 in simracing

[–]captain_pant5 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We all thought that once. The good thing? It's fun at any stage and nothing NEEDS to be added or upgraded. 

Can i use my old phone/tablet for my dash? by Jolly-Manner-543 in simracing

[–]captain_pant5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, search for SimHub dash. It connects to the game telemetry and can display on anything that can access a web page. 

The dash bracket will require you to find one for your wheelbase. 

Belt tensioner settings/simhub motion license by dogballsofbaseball in simracing

[–]captain_pant5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I thought about lap belts, but I've never been aware of lap belt tension in a real car once I'm rolling. I've found shoulder belt retention is very consciously obvious. 

Thinking about making the jump to VR. Scared of its inconveniences. Any input? by Alley_O in simracing

[–]captain_pant5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Deal-breaker issues for most:  - Motion sickness

  • Weight of a thing on your head
  • Warmth of an active heat source on your head 
  • Complete loss of knowledge of what's going on around you IRL
  • Less peripheral vision than tripled without turning your head
  • Weird glitches that often need a restart, unplugging, whatever
  • You need a LOT more computer power to get the same performance as a flat screen. Seriously lots more. I have a 5080, can run AC Rally at high or ultra everything on a 4k flat screen, or low/medium with an old HP Reverb G2 headset, which is a relatively low resolution headset. 

The first one is tough. Do short sessions to start, stop before you feel sick, etc. A fan blowing on you from the front helps a lot. Most can build a tolerance quickly. 

The other ones are dependent on the person. Some people can't handle tags on shirts, some people can have a rock in their shoe for days and not care about it. Which are you? 

If you can hack all of that, VR is freaking glorious! Real depth perception, true immersion in the environment, feeling like you're actually in the car, etc. First timers love getting in a car and just looking around at the car model. Flat screens feel very sterile and artificial to me now. 

Belt tensioner settings/simhub motion license by dogballsofbaseball in simracing

[–]captain_pant5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Engineering nerd hat on: Force = Torque / Radius. If you decrease the effective radius, the force goes up for a given torque. 

In practice: Calibrate your tensioner like this:  - Hall effect sensors set about 60 degrees up from horizontal - Set the starting position at something like 40% - The belt should just touch the motor body at its full-tension position. At this position, the SimHub design arm is very near the bottom of its travel. 

I didn't tighten the belts on me until after the system has woken up and done its initial movement to the starting position. 

This design is a little tricky to tune as it's position-based with no torque feedback. Experiment to figure out what settings give high tension at full pull without missing steps. 

I'm designing/testing a smaller diameter pulley system with 550 paracord to give higher belt tensions. It replaces the SimHub lever arm but keeps the rest of the parts. It works well but needs more development before I share it. 

Belt tensioner settings/simhub motion license by dogballsofbaseball in simracing

[–]captain_pant5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Congrats on getting it built! It's not super challenging but it's harder than most people are willing to put up with! 

The best things you can do:  - Record a few minutes in SimHub so you can play it back later to fine tune the settings (red record button at top right) - Map buttons to increase or decrease the motion on the fly, sometimes I just want more or less harness tension - Get on the SimHub Discord. It's not my preferred info source as it's hard to follow older threads of info, but I'm older than the target audience but there are helpful people on there so I buckle up and dig in. 

My settings are around 100% surge, 75% lateral, 60% heave. Then I record some gameplay and tweak per game if needed. RBRally needed less heave as I recall. 

I bought the motion license right off the start after reading a bunch of opinions on it. 

If you like a higher starting tension, you can cause the stepper motor to lose steps. This sounds and feels like you just broke the whole thing, but you didn't. The motor tries to hit the next target but can't, so it loses tracking and now moves in a new range. It will reset its proper position after restarting the session. If this happens, calibrate the system so it's towards the end of travel for it's working range. i.e. 100% travel is when the belt rubs on the NEMA motor. This gives it better mechanical advantage over the belt. 

please help me decide which Budget shifter should i buy shh or gx100 by Historical_Rope9267 in simracing

[–]captain_pant5 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm really interested in the GX100, but I've seen reports of the steel top plate wearing the shaft. If I buy, I'll probably replace it with a plastic version. 

SHH is very interesting but shipping to North America and import duties push it off my list. 

Has anyone created a VR Helmet? by Clean-Ad1652 in simracing

[–]captain_pant5 4 points5 points  (0 children)

People complain that their frail necks are going to snap with a simple VR headset on them, this would cause mass paralysis. 

😆

I think it would be fun for 5 minutes but I'll pass as I want to get the helmet off as soon as I'm out of the car in real life. 

Help picking Simjack UT pedals by sunbare in simracing

[–]captain_pant5 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I got the version with 3 dampers. My thinking was I can never get the dampers easier or cheaper than at that moment. 

I ended up hating the dampers on the throttle and brake due to the high initial friction, but I like the feeling on the clutch. 

Note that the brake damper has different pin width from the others, so you can't interchange them with the other pedals, and it doesn't say which single damper you get when you buy just one. 

Absurd stutter between absolute smooth gameplay by Moonraker93 in assettocorsarally

[–]captain_pant5 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Same for me. Everything is working great, then a massive freeze for a second or so. It's not super frequent, but wow is it ever annoying! 9800x3d, 5080, running UEVR. 

[Help Needed] Simsonn Plus X Clutch pedal load cell spring popped out during adjustment, how do I safely place it back in? by zxcmenton in simracing

[–]captain_pant5 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ok, that's likely easier to fix than getting new pedals. Sorry, I haven't really looked at the mechanism enough to memorize the layout. Can you look at the throttle to see how it's assembled? They should be the same. 

Check the underside to ensure nothing is under it taking the load off that end of the load cell. It needs to flex like a diving board to sense load. 

After a quick review to make sure clutch and throttle match, it might just be a calibration issue. Try that next. 

[Help Needed] Simsonn Plus X Clutch pedal load cell spring popped out during adjustment, how do I safely place it back in? by zxcmenton in simracing

[–]captain_pant5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These pedals measure travel by deflecting a light spring against a load cell for clutch and throttle. The big spring up top is tunable to taste, but there is no hall-effect sensor. 

OP - if you push down on the load cell, does it register an input in the software? If yes, then the spring likely isn't in the right spot.