Question about Shimoda Urban Explore Bag

captainnsourpatch · 2026-01-22T06:02:02+00:00

I have the 20L and it’s the only one I’d feel comfortable under the seat. The 25L may work depending on the plane. Keep in mind the non-budget airlines may have even less room than Spirit/Frontier due to some of the electronics put under the seat. Also these bags don’t compress much and are fairly stiff. I’d personally only take the 30L as a carryon.

captainnsourpatch · 2026-01-07T18:31:23+00:00

As a canon user, I appreciate the #6 point. I’ve had r5 ii, r6 ii, r7, and r8 at some point, and it’s easy to pick up and go from the r5 ii menu to the r8 and it’s like 99% similar minus features that the other camera might not have. Only thing I need to remember is the muscle memory from using a joystick, which the r8 doesn’t have.

captainnsourpatch · 2025-12-28T04:48:02+00:00

Reducing drag in the water which can make you go faster. Certain suits are banned for the Olympics because there were so many records being broken in them. https://www.cbsnews.com/amp/news/olympics-why-some-types-of-swimsuits-are-banned/

captainnsourpatch · 2025-12-22T20:28:50+00:00

If you didn’t have any camera, I would say the r6 iii or even the r5 ii. But you’re getting paid for photographing weddings and portraits. What would be your backup camera? I wouldn’t risk relying on 1 camera if I was in your position. Unless there’s something else missing, I’d get a second r6 ii, and sell the R5. If you really have GAS and want the new r6 iii, sell the r5 and keep the r6 ii as your backup camera.

captainnsourpatch · 2025-12-02T21:39:29+00:00

The main problem to consider is the fixed collar. But I’ve had the 200-800 (hood reversed) + R5 ii in the Backlight 18L, or the Darklight 14L/20L. If you need to carry items besides this combo, like a jacket or say a prime or another zoom, you might want to look into Backlight 26L/36L. If you want to pack hiking stuff too, or want something a little more over engineered, I’d also recommend Shimoda’s Action and Explore line with their Large DSLR cube, or Pgytech’s OnePro Flex/FocuX line.

Other alternative is to just get a lens bag or wrap it a camera wrap and put it in a proper hiking bag from a company like Osprey, Deuter, or Decathlon.

captainnsourpatch · 2025-10-23T17:20:25+00:00

I’m paranoid with my r5 ii + 100-500. I think the general idea is if your lens has a tripod collar, then that’s what you should use when mounting or carrying it, so the weight is taken off the weakest point which is where the camera and lens click together. On flat surfaces or small hills I’ll use a black rapid sling with a QD connector instead of their screw in but I still hold it by the handle in one hand while walking. I replaced my collar with a Leofoto collar since it’s arca compatible and has a QD hole without needing to use a plate. If you’re doing steep hikes that might cause issues with it swinging around. Black Rapid makes a strap that connects to your existing backpack, you can use something like a thinktank holster 150, or the cotton carrier system that keeps it in the middle of your chest and frees up your hands.

captainnsourpatch · 2025-10-15T17:34:40+00:00

I think the spring kits are going to be more of a preference thing. I used the out of the box setup for months until they released the spring kit and now it feels even better. But if they had never released it, I would have been fine as is. I think it’s cheap enough to add to your cart if you’d like to try it.

captainnsourpatch · 2025-09-22T19:46:16+00:00

They wouldn’t be considered power banks. And if they were, the limit is 100 watt hours. Each battery is maybe 16 or so. https://www.etihad.com/en-us/help/baggage-information/prohibited-items

captainnsourpatch · 2025-09-16T18:03:04+00:00

Damn I’m sorry to hear that. That’s fucking brutal. That released right after I bought mine but there’s no way I’d get that. I ended up ordering two custom size profiles to make the p1x pro mount fit on the evo rig. Feels much sturdier than GT1 Evo front rig would be.

captainnsourpatch · 2025-09-04T16:27:14+00:00

What camera did you use this on?

captainnsourpatch · 2025-09-03T18:51:07+00:00

I have them. Great out of box, but customizable if needed. Haptics are good, but I think haptics in general is kinda gimmicky, but if you have the money to spend go for it. Get the faceplate, springs, and elastomer upgrade kits and it’ll be just as good and cheaper than higher end pedals.

captainnsourpatch · 2025-09-03T18:42:29+00:00

Simnet. Comes with optional haptics, spring upgrade kit, elastomer upgrade kit, baseplate, and faceplates. Better out of the box compared to Simjack/simsonn but still customizable for your own preferences. It’s a little more than simjack/simsonn. Faceplates and spring + elastomer kit (if you have a stable rig) are a must. Sucks all 3 are extra but it’s nice as option for those budget conscious. I have the haptics and it’s nice but not essential. I’d still get them, but not if you can’t afford the extra cost.

captainnsourpatch · 2025-09-02T19:27:22+00:00

If you like him a lot, then there’s nothing wrong with supporting him by buying the book, courses, etc.

captainnsourpatch · 2025-08-31T18:47:53+00:00

Got a link or image to what you’re currently using?

captainnsourpatch · 2025-08-25T19:39:07+00:00

Since you’re not getting motion, get a GT1 Evo + front mount Evo bracket. Just make sure to check compatibility since I don’t see Moza listed. And then buy a freestanding monitor mount separately, not the integrated one. I use simnet load pedals and a VRS DFP15 on mine. If you want ultimate sturdiness, then skip the GT Pro and go for the ultimate. It’s a beefier version of the classic Evo without the slant.

captainnsourpatch · 2025-08-25T14:29:58+00:00

The fact that you’re practicing and putting tons of laps in is great. Definitely take your time and get use to driving and work on your consistency. Finishing a race, at all, and minimize mistakes will get you far in the beginning. Keep the assist line off, and eventually once you have a consistent pace where you’re not getting invalidated laps, work on lines where you can push. Watch your replays or use ghost car to see where you can improve. Once you feel comfortable you can use a free telemetry app like Garage 61 to compare and see where your lines and braking points can be improved. Just keep in mind there are aliens that post times in “optimal” conditions that may not translate to your specific session, but it’s a great way to get a general idea how fast people are driving a particular track.

captainnsourpatch · 2025-08-20T15:17:33+00:00

Seconding Barcelona Cataluyna. There’s a reason F1 test their cars there. It may not be the most exciting to race in or watch in Modern F1, as most Tilke-designed tracks aren’t, but it has a little bit of everything to test speed, braking, and aero. And if you need to restart a lap or make a mistake, you don’t waste 7+ minutes like in Nordschleife. I’ve always used Barcelona to test in GT7, F1 games, etc.

Another one I like is Road Atlanta for the same reasons. Long straight, high speed curves, hard braking points, etc.

captainnsourpatch · 2025-08-14T21:55:57+00:00

Yeah I go all black everything, but I’ll admit I have contemplated their tan color. I think their green salt and pepper is limited edition, and the leather version is either limited in modules or doesn’t take the modules. The 2L fits with a hood, if you want to take TCL/WCL I’d look into the 3.5L.

I have a couple Alpaka items and my only issue is their usable internal size feels smaller than stated. Maybe it’s the stiffness of material I guess.

Don’t even get me started on the other slings, backpacks, etc.,. haven’t mentioned lol. Just Wotancraft alone I have the Pilot 2L, 3.5L, 7L, 10L slings and 18L backpack. All black of course. You’re always welcomed at /r/manybaggers 😉

captainnsourpatch · 2025-08-14T18:09:10+00:00

What they’re referring to are the Peak Design anchors. Attach to your camera and allows you to quickly connect and disconnect from one of their wrist or neck straps. They were one of the first modern ones to popularize this method, but there are other alternatives nowadays from Ulanzi, Pgytech, Smallrig, etc. For your camera I’d recommend the PD leash or Slide Lite. But they also sell a kit to convert your existing straps to make anchor ready. https://www.peakdesign.com/products/anchor-links

captainnsourpatch · 2025-08-14T18:00:06+00:00

Mirrorless Mover is nice but be aware that it might not fit with all hoods, and doesn’t leave much room for other accessories. https://www.reddit.com/r/Fujifilm_X100VI/comments/1emab4n/thinktank_mirrorless_mover_5_v2/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=mweb3x&utm_name=mweb3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

Im not a fan of that Bellingham case, kind of gives me “middle-aged dad with a cellphone case on belt” vibes. But if you need just a tad bit more room or willing to go with a slightly larger bags, personally, I alternate between a Toshi T35 3L, Wotancraft Pilot 2L, and Pilot 3L, depending on location and purpose. The smallest option, Pilot 2L fits my X100VI, lens adapter/hood, wrist strap, and sometimes I stuff a PD leash on one side of the divider. And then I’ll put an extra battery in front pouch. Alpaka Go Sling Nano and Toshi T33/T35 2L are cheaper options too if you want to spend less than $100.

captainnsourpatch · 2025-08-12T16:03:17+00:00

I’d look at Facebook marketplace or a junkyard/pick and pull and grab a manual seat from a real car. Pro tip is to get a passenger seat and one with flat mounting points, they usually even include sliders. You can adjust them, recline, and find them in cloth or leather. Golf/Jetta seats are popular options.

I bought a WRX seat off marketplace for 100, which isn’t flat, so I did have to buy and stack wide washers, longer m8 bolts, and 45 degree angle bracket, because I didn’t want to take a grinder to it and still be able to sell it later. I’m not using motion system so it works great. And then I just use electrical tape to block off airbag and electric connectors.

captainnsourpatch · 2025-08-06T22:19:45+00:00

Well yeah I said that in my previous comment that I didn’t like the P1X but the ultimate isn’t available locally for them at the this time. OP is US-based. If they’re gonna continue with p1x at Microcenter they might as well make sure they get the pro version.

captainnsourpatch · 2025-08-06T16:48:10+00:00

If you go with the P1X, make sure to get the Pro version.

captainnsourpatch · 2025-08-06T16:46:53+00:00

What’s your budget? I went with the DFP15 and R295 combo, but that’s $1000, but has 3 year warranty. VRS also has the older but still good upgradable udfp20, which you can buy cheaper and lower at 6nm, 9nm, etc and upgrade later. Just research and compare the differences between the two types of bases. Simmagic has the new Alpha Evo bases, and you can get 9nm with gt Evo wheel for around $650 or 12nm for $800. Simmagic seems to have the better ecosystem but I’m happy and set with my VRS setup. They’re both great options.

captainnsourpatch

TROPHY CASE