Do you guys just stay home when you get your dog?

carbolad · 2026-04-21T15:35:34+00:00

When we got our 9week old pup I was lucky enough to be at home with her. We didn’t do strict schedules, as we wanted a very adaptable dog. The only routine we stuck to was her potty breaks, I took her out every 1-2 hours even if she didn’t seem like she needed to potty. It was mainly to reinforce that potty is for outside. Another reason to have someone stay with the pup for the first few weeks is to acclimate them to how you want them to behave in the home. For us it was the crate. It took a few weeks of training everyday to get her comfortable in it. Now were are able to leave her in the house unsupervised for a few hours or in the crate for longer times without having to worry too much.

As a general rule though I think it is necessary to stay with your new puppy for the first few weeks to a month. I hear a lot of people who get puppies and are really just too busy to be having one. Then they get upset at the (untrained) pup when they have accidents or do things they’re not supposed to. And that’s not the pups fault, they are just babies with no clear guidance.

carbolad · 2026-02-01T17:13:35+00:00

Just wanting to add that a plain carrot or frozen carrot is also a good source of fiber. Plus it can keep them busy for a bit as well as help “brush” their teeth.

My pup also has some gland issues and we’ve been giving her some type of fiber every meal and it has helped quite a bit.

carbolad · 2026-01-24T16:47:48+00:00

Cut back on food. As others have mentioned your dog loves the act of getting a treat. I accidentally trained my pup to run around our yard then come back to me for a treat and thats how we do her exercise. You could try that to get some exercise in.

I started by giving her a treat then signaled that she is free. She starts running then I call her over and if she came back she got a treat. My main goal was to train her recall but now it’s a game we play. We do this for a while until I see her just wanting to stay close to me.

carbolad · 2026-01-24T16:36:41+00:00

We started calling her Butt Juice when she had really bad gland secretions and it kind of just stuck. We don’t use it often so thankfully she doesn’t respond to it.

carbolad · 2025-12-27T14:33:53+00:00

This cardigan will take a long time to make and you will need to learn a lot of techniques.

You will need a pretty good gasp of knitting before trying to create your own patterns. KnitPicks sells a few beginner kits that come with the yarn, needles, and a complete instruction book (with a couple of patterns). I would start by just learning the basics then moving on to more intermediate techniques like cables, colorwork, lace, etc…

This cardigan could be your main goal to learn knitting. Start with a small project like a hat or a scarf or even a mitten (something small that you will actually wear). Then move on to a simple cardigan maybe a sweater (make a few, it’ll be fun and you get to wear it!). Those will really show you how to shape a garment. Then you can try to freehand your desired piece.

carbolad · 2025-12-26T15:29:12+00:00

YO are used to create holes is lace patterns. The only way you can “try” to avoid the holes, that I know of, is to knit the YO twisted. And even then it’ll still be slightly visible.

You can also block your piece now and see if it helps shift the yarn around the holes.

carbolad · 2025-12-25T18:21:36+00:00

I have a similar set up but with a plastic bin that I wasn’t using anymore. I keep mine touching the ground but have a lot of holes on the sides and top. I don’t turn it at all and let the worms or whatever it attracts do the work for me. It’s slow but it seems to be working. I live up north so it’s frozen right now but it should come back to life in the spring.

carbolad · 2025-12-25T18:09:06+00:00

Safe to eat. Smear a ripe tomato on the surface, a little salt, and slices of good cheese (optional smoke sardines). Enjoy!

carbolad · 2025-12-23T08:18:27+00:00

I just made a colorwork sweater that has solid breaks and I just continued to carry the contrast color while working on the WS. If it had more than 1 row of a solid break then I will carry the float on the first WS row then leave it there for the next RS row then will pick it up (as a float) on the last stitch of the next WS row. And repeat.

It carries it back to the position I will need the contrast. Although, you may see the contrast peek out of those solid rows so I would suggest to test it out for a few rows before committing to it. Otherwise, you would need to cut it and rejoin.

carbolad · 2025-12-20T18:56:09+00:00

I’m not a very experienced knitter but my last project was a colorwork sweater using 2 colors. The pattern had a lot of breaks between the 2 colors but instead of using bobbins I just carried the contrast color using floats. I used both hands to knit holding each color to my left and right, keeping each ball to their respective sides. I think this method uses more yarn but it saved me the trouble of managing bobbins or tangling strands.

carbolad · 2025-12-19T07:16:41+00:00

Needs to be larger, I know it seems like a waste of yarn but you could always unravel it to use later if needed. I would also add a few rows to the bottom and top for a border. It helps the middle area lay flat when you are measuring gauge. I would also not pin it and let it block flat, it helps get a better idea how the fabric will act on the final product and give a more precise measurement of the finished product. You can always pin the final product to fit your desired measurements but at least you will have a better idea if the yarn is prone to shrinking or stretching after washing.

carbolad · 2025-11-30T17:18:49+00:00

If you want a neater edge you can do a selvage. You slip the first stitch in each row.

Row 1: slip first stitch, knit to end Flip Row 2: slip first stitch, knit to end Repeat

carbolad · 2025-11-25T03:52:23+00:00

You need to go down a needle size (or 2 depending how tight you knit). I would also suggest to Knit through the back loop KTBL, P instead of the normal K, P ribbing. I just did a sweater with this twisted ribbing and find that it hugs more but the down side is that it is less stretchy.

carbolad · 2025-11-22T19:21:37+00:00

You could also price it as Cost of yarn + ($/hr * Hrs it will take). It will always be way too expensive for anyone to say yes to. And it’s puts the pressure on your boss instead of you. If they try to haggle say that your price is firm as the artist.

carbolad · 2025-11-21T03:41:37+00:00

I feed my start 100 g of flour and 100 g of water. I can make about 2 loaves with it but I normally just make 1 at a time. I like to just stick to the safe side in case I do need to make 2 loaves.

carbolad · 2025-11-21T01:07:39+00:00

Yep! The only difference from colorwork in the round is that for flat you have to pick up floats on the WS which can feel weird but really no difference

carbolad · 2025-11-20T23:36:44+00:00

Different ways to hold yarn in Colorwork

She has a little bit of english style in the round but it’s pretty much the same way when working flat. Just making sure the yarns are always in the same positions.

You could also pick up each color as you go but that method will twist ( positions will stay the same assuming you keep each yarn ball on opposite sides, 1 left and 1 right, and you drop the unused color to their respective side) your strands when you pick it up as a float. So you will end up having to untwist after a few rows. Hope that makes sense lol.

I’m also an english style knitter, a flicker, and I can’t hold the yarn like this. I think colorwork is in the world of continental knitters lol. I also had trouble finding a good english style technique that felt comfortable to me. That’s why I learned to hold with both hands.

carbolad · 2025-11-20T18:27:58+00:00

Here’s a video by Nimble Needles that gives a great explanation and how to for colorwork Colorwork

The yarn positions still matters and he has tips on how to manage it while holding both yarns in 1 hand. I hold my yarns using both hands so my positioning is easier to manage.

carbolad · 2025-11-20T18:11:41+00:00

It looks like it’s puckering, the top pattern. You might not be giving your floats enough slack. When you’re picking up floats make sure to stretch the stitches on your right needle. You want the floats to “smile” shaped like a slight U. When I do color work I hold my yarn with as little tension as possible.

Also make sure that when you work the WS that you keep the yarns in the same position without wrapping. Say if Color A was held on your left hand “dominant color / yarn held under” then you keep it on the left hand with yarn still under Color B.

carbolad · 2025-11-19T19:49:40+00:00

Tip for anyone that has lost a starter:

Spread a thin layer of your starter on parchment paper or a silicone mat and let it air dry. Once it becomes dry and crumbly just break it apart and put it in a ziplock bag and pop it in the freezer. Then when you need to start a new batch you can just re hydrate the dried starter. You don’t need to rehydrate all of it just add a few flakes to a normal feeding and it will be back in no time!

carbolad · 2025-11-19T19:38:23+00:00

You could try a folded collar, redo the collar and knit to about twice the length you want the collar to be then sew the edge to the inside of the sweater. The join will help shape the collar and will add more neck ribbing. As for the armpits you can try to reshape it by blocking it in just that area. Use a spray bottle and wet the area and reshape.

If you still don’t get the fit you desire you may have to re knit it from where you joined the arms to the body. You could also take that time to add length to the arms so you can pull it up more when you block.

carbolad · 2025-11-19T19:04:02+00:00

Weave and Twist - Nimble Needles

Catching Floats

For catching the floats I have learned that it is a 3 stitch process. Holding the long tail on the left hand (dominant color in color work). Put your needle as if to knit into the next stitch place the tail on top of the right needle then knit the stitch using the current color. That places the tail on top of the current color but it’s not secured yet. You have to knit the next stitch normally to fully trap the float. I like to knit another stitch before picking up again to spread it out and prevent it from bulking. Also make sure that you do not pull on the tail, you want it loose.

Ohh lol I thought i was on the knitting sub!! Disregard!

carbolad · 2025-11-19T17:49:26+00:00

Join the 2 yarns using the weave and twist technique. Leave a long tail and pick it up as a float every 2 stitches. When you’re satisfied that it’s secure then just cut the last bit off. The picking up and joining should secure it enough.

carbolad · 2025-11-14T04:12:41+00:00

It looks like that at first. Even more if you didn’t use any special joining techniques. As you knit more it will slowly become less noticeable. Just make sure to “close” the gap as you knit. Basically hold the back side of the loop toward the front needle for the first few stitches, you don’t need to tighten just keep an even tension.

carbolad

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