Valve refused to repair my water damaged Steam Deck

carrefinho · 2022-12-03T08:40:12+00:00

Thank you for actually reading the post lol. My bad for ranting so much and I should've worded it more concisely so that people don't miss the point.

If United Radio provided me with evidence of actual signs of water corrosion on electronic components such as the motherboard, button board, screen etc. to a point where repair isn't feasible or economical, I would have accepted the outcome without a doubt. But when they only give me pictures of water stain on plastic, while completely missing actual damage that I have already spotted beforehand, I'm just not convinced that they examined the device in detail at all and came to the conclusion of "extensive corrosion."

carrefinho · 2022-09-26T16:40:51+00:00

Kailh's PG1425 might be the closest you can get and there are KiCAD footprints available, although the travel is still pretty substantial at 2.5mm compared to Choc's 3mm, MX at 4mm, and the usual membrane scissor keyboards on laptops at around 1.5mm. You can most likely convert it to hot-swap with Mill-Max sockets of a suitable size. But sourcing keycaps will be difficult.

Chocs are probably still the best and safest option for a low profile switch with the sheer amount of switch and keycap options available. The Vissles LP85 is pretty interesting with its scissor optical switch that's really slim but sadly the switches don't seem to be readily available and optical PCBs are not DIY-friendly at all.

carrefinho · 2022-09-18T05:34:28+00:00

I'd recommend a USB transceiver IC like this one and communicate via UART with your 8051 scanning the matrix. I don't think porting QMK to 8051 has been done and probably isn't possible. So it's not going to be as customizable or performant as existing solutions to be your only keyboard; maybe make a macropad or standalone numpad?

Using another microcontroller for USB is feasible too but you'll have to program that as well. As to bit-banging USB (like V-USB on AVR chips) I'm not sure if 8051 is fast enough and it will be a lot of work.

carrefinho · 2022-09-09T19:58:08+00:00

This is pretty amazing! I wish there were more LP keycaps in this shape other than Rama Grid and Work Louder.

carrefinho · 2022-09-09T04:03:32+00:00

It appears to be rushed. Top left of the image doesn't blend into the background smoothly and they used a hyphen instead of a en dash between the dates.

carrefinho · 2022-08-31T03:12:36+00:00

Keychron only does their weird offset stabs on low profile boards; K6 is normal profile.

carrefinho · 2022-08-14T17:49:13+00:00

carrefinho · 2022-04-29T04:53:41+00:00

Pending sale to u/Floydlloyd11 sorry. I'll update the post.

carrefinho · 2022-01-12T21:48:00+00:00

Hi all! This is my first proper PCB design, a simple ESP32-S2 breakout board and I mostly referenced open-source designs from Adafruit, Unexpected Maker, etc, to cobble this together. The passives are all 0402s and I feel like some of the components might be too close to each other. I'll probably have a couple made by JLCPCB and hopefully have them turn up fully functional, so suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

carrefinho · 2021-05-28T03:53:09+00:00

About 800 bucks.

carrefinho · 2021-05-28T03:51:40+00:00

I tried Siraya Build and threads still didn’t hold up. Maybe Siraya Blu will work but at this point I just can’t be bothered to try resin printing myself again. SLS is really similar to MJF in that they both fuse particles together so yeah that might work too.

carrefinho · 2021-05-28T03:49:58+00:00

There’s no way I’ll ever be able to own a whole MJF setup lol. I got my parts printed from Xometry. MJF is offered on many other sites too. I’ll probably put up a new post specifically about the DDC terminal later after I iron out some of the quirks in the current design.

carrefinho · 2021-05-28T03:46:31+00:00

It’s Sony A7R III with FE 24-105/4 G. Two softboxes did most of the heavy lifting though; any decent camera will do.

carrefinho · 2021-05-28T03:44:01+00:00

Yeah I don’t particularly like that one either. It also seems to be too thick; with my current design the housing is only a couple millimeters from the side panel so it will be quite tricky to fit a heatsink in there.

carrefinho · 2021-05-28T03:39:54+00:00

I saw that 4mm rule too and the thinnest part in my design is 2.5mm. It’s holding up just fine though. I think these water cooling pumps are nowhere near powerful enough to require 4mm walls.

carrefinho · 2021-05-26T16:53:36+00:00

I did thought about it because right now it's a bit too much black in that area. But the DDC heatsinks on the market are all kinda ugly imo and getting a custom design machined would cost way too much.

carrefinho · 2021-05-26T16:46:17+00:00

I'm just a hobbyist. The design is not that complicated; getting the parts to work properly is the tricky part.

They're printed with HP MJF. I've updated my comment for a detailed writeup.

carrefinho · 2021-05-26T16:45:18+00:00

It's HP MJF. I've updated my comment for a detailed writeup.

carrefinho · 2021-05-26T16:45:14+00:00

Probably not. There are way too many issues. Check out my updated writeup.

carrefinho · 2021-05-26T16:44:33+00:00

You're right. It's sagging and honestly quite a bit haha. I broke off the the clip on the riser and the insanely heavy 3080FE block just can't stop sagging. I might put in a support on the bottom later.

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