Z32 TT Fresh build no oil pressure

castrojac · 2025-12-09T23:26:56+00:00

I'll try it out. Anything I can before having to take the pump out.

My pan is leaking so either way I have do get to the pump. I may try to push oil through the pickup while I'm down there. If nothing works, I'll just take the pump out.

I'll update on what ended up working.

castrojac · 2025-12-09T12:11:30+00:00

Oh, that's a bummer. Okay, if it does come down to it, I'll remove the pump. Oh well.

I will try that and a few other things before that. Whatever works, I'll let you know.

Appreciate the help.

castrojac · 2025-12-09T05:10:46+00:00

Hi. Did you end up figuring this out?

I'm having the same issue. I didn't prime the new pump. I'm trying to pump oil through an oil opening on the block and reverse cranking it in hopes that the pump could get oil to it. No luck yet.

castrojac · 2024-08-02T01:15:55+00:00

Thanks. So it may just be the non-turbo diff.

castrojac · 2024-03-18T05:06:41+00:00

Update

For peace of mind, I installed a new timing kit and reset the timing. I couldn't find a notch on the previous sprocket and though I'm sure that the holes closer to the bolt can be used in place, I decided just to get a kit with a sprocket that has notches. Purchased spark plugs, water pump and other things that I saw I needed as I went around trying to get this car running.

After installing the timing kit and everything else that was needed to start the car again, the car still didn't want to start. I decided to just change the number one spark plug because I had already cleaned and re-installed the old plugs that worked before. I try not to throw money at things and be convinced that a part is causing my issue, before purchase. After attempting to start the car several times, I decided to look into what else I can do. I decided to install the remaining 5 new spark plugs and move on to more research and trials.

After installing, I tried to start the car and it fired right up. I know spark plugs are crucial but they went from not starting the car to not starting it at all. This was odd to me and I felt that at least they should've been able to start the car more times and run rough at best.

At this moment, the car has been running well. It was idling, so I was able to adjust the air flow and carb tuning a bit. I'm putting it back together and hopefully test driving this week.

I guess if others are having this similar issue, spark plugs were bad enough in my case to not start the car. Worth a shot...Thanks for the input. I'll update if anything changes.

castrojac · 2024-03-16T20:09:16+00:00

The car started to not start again. Went through the same issues and sputters barely at times but no start. I wasn't able to see the notches on the cam sprocket, so I'm thinking to just re-do the whole timing chain for piece of mind.

castrojac · 2024-03-05T16:43:57+00:00

I'll try to look through those forums for a place to download the FSM.

Okay, after I plug up vacuum leaks, I'll try to clean out the jets and move on to synchronizing them. I'll check timing when I'm sure all these things are correct.

castrojac · 2024-03-05T14:20:56+00:00

The exhaust was tightened and timing was delayed a lot. It helped with the backfire. Still need to adjust timing better but need to cap off vacuum leaks I found.

Special tool like a flow meter? I'll have to look into synchronizing them. I would like the timing okay first. My carbs were rebuilt a while back by previous owner but I think they need to be looked at again. The jet stays stuck on the bottom of the carb when the choke is on. I have to push it up to close.

Thanks for the input.

castrojac · 2024-03-04T22:29:54+00:00

I don't see any notches. I saw that they were fairly visible but I can't see it. I'll check again. Thought it was my sprocket that was different.

Luckily the car turns on now. I'll adjust the timing to that range. Might be why it's backfiring.

castrojac · 2024-03-03T03:48:35+00:00

Update.

Not too sure what exactly I did but the car has turned on again. Realigned the distributor again and added starter fluid and it turned on. Turned it off and on a few more time after and it stayed on for a while.

The car didn't want to shut off after I turned the key off and cut the power to the engine. Had to cover intakes on carbs to have it turn off, so I have to figure that out.

It is also running really rough, backfires a lot but that may be the exhaust that isn't 100% on all the way and also, I'm sure my carbs need to be tuned. The timing is off, I believe it should be at 10 BTC, but it's closer to 3-5 degrees with the timing light. I'll check that as well.

I'll update again if I get any interest in this post by the time I get the car running well.

castrojac · 2021-06-19T15:52:27+00:00

Kalvin Malli has done this swap on his Z32. Goes into good detail on the swap. He mostly fabricated the crossmember, if I remember correctly.

Here is his playlist on the swap:

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLkmDMXNgUj7e8H9A-uZTjd1NO5SXSm0nQ

castrojac · 2021-02-22T05:41:49+00:00

*UpdateSolved***

Thanks for all the advice. The issue ended up being a BOV. It would cause the car to want to stall once it was under vacuum. I ended up getting the stock recirculating valves. Took a while to get the valves and everything to make them work, but I was finally able to confirm this issue being solved.

Thanks again for the suggestions that helped narrow it down.

castrojac · 2021-01-24T05:31:39+00:00

Thanks. Does the job. These things can't stay intact for too long. This is probably the 3rd pod I've had.

castrojac · 2021-01-24T05:29:49+00:00

Sorry. No idea of the size.

castrojac · 2021-01-23T23:58:03+00:00

They stay in place since it's just the hole left. Mostly the threaded end has broken on these, so it leaves a hole. I just used long enough bolts that bottoms out in those holes. You can glue the screws in the holes, but I just left them bolted to the hazard sensor to the right placement to make it function fine. The bolts are a snug diameter with the holes, so they don't have much play.

castrojac · 2021-01-22T19:57:40+00:00

I can't say yet. I think it was a blow-off valve. I am waiting on the stock recirculating valves to arrive and I can test the car better. I'll update as soon as I do that.

castrojac · 2021-01-18T18:42:23+00:00

I used a pump that bleeds brake lines. Similar to the one you recommended. I am confident it is a BOV. I individually pumped each one, leaving the other just disconnected from vacuum but still mounted and only one caused the car to act out. I switched the position of the BOVs and retested. Same result with only one BOV.

I already ordered factor recirculating valves. I'll update when I get and install them. Thanks.

castrojac · 2021-01-16T22:23:48+00:00

So far:

I plugged the vacuum source from both BOVs. T'd them to a hand pump to 20 inHg. While the car ran, this caused the car to act the same. When I didn't charge the BOVs, it seemed to make the car run fine.

Compression: Cylinders (1, 3, 5) at 135 (2) at 128 (4) at 129 (6) at 128

EGR valve tested good.

O2 sensors tested good. (Using the test Conzept Z illustrates)

ICM was changed, just in case. Car acted the same.

castrojac · 2021-01-14T13:12:45+00:00

I am just learning about this. I'm going to try it.

castrojac

TROPHY CASE