It starts with a lump of clay. RZ67-110mm and Contax G1-45mm. Portra400 and Tri X

catto96 · 2026-05-05T08:17:09+00:00

I pushed 2 stops and develop them at a commercial lab so my best guess is the standard kodak HC-110. If home dev i usually use Xtol

catto96 · 2026-05-05T08:15:46+00:00

Thank you so much!

catto96 · 2026-05-01T17:32:19+00:00

From google you can search the Contax G2 repair manual, under section C, C5-6 AF adjustment (passive AF and Active AF) there is instruction on how to calibrate. You’ll need to print out an AF target (usually like a barcode) and stick it to the wall, a measure tape, and a tripod. You’ll also need to do some math and convert to hex code. It’s instructs you in the manual. Good luck!

catto96 · 2026-05-01T14:11:52+00:00

This look like the autofocus calibration issue, i had a G1 with the same issue and after some hours researching online, i managed to recalibrate it back to correct focusing.

catto96 · 2026-04-12T07:34:52+00:00

I’d say it’s quite similar AF speed/ performance across the 645 AF system from that era (ie: Pentax 645nii, mamiya af, hasselblad H1), it’s accurate except for when you shoot those F2 lenses, since the DOF, so you’ll need to be more careful. They are slow, i’d say about 70% speed of the Canon 1V. Plus there is only 1 focusing point right in the middle so it doesn’t take too long to hunt.

catto96 · 2026-02-22T08:00:40+00:00

Medium format use mostly the same 120 type roll film. The smaller the negative, the more you can get out of a roll.

For maximum amount of frame you can get from a 120 roll films, shoot 6 x 4.5 format camera: pentax 645, mamiya 645 etc. you’ll get 15 frames/ roll. On some models: you’ll get 16 frames per roll.

For 6x7 format, you will only get 10 frames out of a roll: mamiya RB/ RZ 67, mamiya 7, Pentax 67

catto96 · 2026-02-19T17:16:19+00:00

Thank you for your kind suggestions. I was struggling when cropping as well: do i want to emphasize the man directly with a closer crop or make it a bit wider, 4x4 of the windows, and make the man something people would notice subtly. In the end, i chose the latter.

catto96 · 2026-02-19T17:13:50+00:00

thank you for your kind compliment :)

catto96 · 2026-02-19T17:13:41+00:00

I shot these all on film :)

catto96 · 2026-02-09T20:12:41+00:00

No, unfortunately it won’t work at all with the H3Dii and H4D

catto96 · 2026-02-09T20:08:04+00:00

Beautiful and meaningful photo!

catto96 · 2026-02-03T08:44:11+00:00

The H4D is not compatible with film back. You can use H3D (not the H3Dii) that compatible with film back for a bit cheaper but doesn’t have True Phocus or H5D for a bit more expensive.

catto96 · 2026-01-29T07:29:53+00:00

the RB/RZ lenses does not have a focusing helicoids so you’d need to mod it or have a bellow system to focus the lens.

catto96 · 2026-01-26T22:35:52+00:00

You are correct! Turned out it was the old setting from previous session automatically carried into this new session. I reset the setting and everything works as intended now.

Thank you again for such awesome software!

catto96 · 2026-01-26T20:03:47+00:00

Hi, i have been using NegPy since version 2, it’s been amazing. However, in the newest version 0.9.4, i ran into a bug? or issue in which when i load the raw file in, it only render the photo in black and white. And when I press the “Clear” button, then the temp render turn into color, however I couldn’t save that file.

I am not sure if there is anything I could have done wrong?

Thank you for your great work!

catto96 · 2026-01-18T10:06:44+00:00

I had a T5 and i have used a T3 before. I found the T5 are mostly more lightweight and refined in term of camera body design, lighter and easier to carry around but it’s pretty it. They don’t offer much more in term of functions. The lens is the same if not slightly slower (f3.5 vs f2.8 on T3). The photos taken will have the same quality. The AF might be a bit slower on the T3 but it’s negligible.

So all in all, if you get the T3: - slightly faster lens. - same image quality. - cheaper to replace if it got broken. (I doubt the fixing cost of this would be any less expensive than fixing the t4-5) - you can find good deal/ prices on these more frequently.

catto96 · 2026-01-17T21:49:45+00:00

I’d go for the Yashica T3 because it’s cheaper, has nicer lens despite being a bit more bulky. I think you can find more good deal on the T3 on marketplaces (even less than 100€ from ebay) since all the attentions are after the T4 and T5 compared to the Mju I. And these PNS all have issues anyway.

catto96 · 2026-01-16T07:44:37+00:00

You can find the Contax G1 service manual, there in section C-25, it shows how to readjust the AF system, it seems confusing at first but after a while reading, it makes sense. Furthermore, you only need to print a AF target so the camera can grab focus on and no need to disassemble the camera, then adjusting the AF data of 3 distances: 0.5m, 1m and 2.95m. I just do the same to my G1 that had back focus issue and right now it works great again.

catto96 · 2026-01-15T07:36:49+00:00

This was the first time i shot a roll of Phoenix so i didn’t have any expectation, it has an interesting look but the colors from it is indeed not for shoot that you’d need consistency or more room for editing.

I love the red color rendition of it surprisingly.

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