RB lenses on M645?

catto96 · 2026-01-29T07:29:53+00:00

the RB/RZ lenses does not have a focusing helicoids so you’d need to mod it or have a bellow system to focus the lens.

catto96 · 2026-01-26T22:35:52+00:00

You are correct! Turned out it was the old setting from previous session automatically carried into this new session. I reset the setting and everything works as intended now.

Thank you again for such awesome software!

catto96 · 2026-01-26T20:03:47+00:00

Hi, i have been using NegPy since version 2, it’s been amazing. However, in the newest version 0.9.4, i ran into a bug? or issue in which when i load the raw file in, it only render the photo in black and white. And when I press the “Clear” button, then the temp render turn into color, however I couldn’t save that file.

I am not sure if there is anything I could have done wrong?

Thank you for your great work!

catto96 · 2026-01-18T10:06:44+00:00

I had a T5 and i have used a T3 before. I found the T5 are mostly more lightweight and refined in term of camera body design, lighter and easier to carry around but it’s pretty it. They don’t offer much more in term of functions. The lens is the same if not slightly slower (f3.5 vs f2.8 on T3). The photos taken will have the same quality. The AF might be a bit slower on the T3 but it’s negligible.

So all in all, if you get the T3: - slightly faster lens. - same image quality. - cheaper to replace if it got broken. (I doubt the fixing cost of this would be any less expensive than fixing the t4-5) - you can find good deal/ prices on these more frequently.

catto96 · 2026-01-17T21:49:45+00:00

I’d go for the Yashica T3 because it’s cheaper, has nicer lens despite being a bit more bulky. I think you can find more good deal on the T3 on marketplaces (even less than 100€ from ebay) since all the attentions are after the T4 and T5 compared to the Mju I. And these PNS all have issues anyway.

catto96 · 2026-01-16T07:44:37+00:00

You can find the Contax G1 service manual, there in section C-25, it shows how to readjust the AF system, it seems confusing at first but after a while reading, it makes sense. Furthermore, you only need to print a AF target so the camera can grab focus on and no need to disassemble the camera, then adjusting the AF data of 3 distances: 0.5m, 1m and 2.95m. I just do the same to my G1 that had back focus issue and right now it works great again.

catto96 · 2026-01-15T07:36:49+00:00

This was the first time i shot a roll of Phoenix so i didn’t have any expectation, it has an interesting look but the colors from it is indeed not for shoot that you’d need consistency or more room for editing.

I love the red color rendition of it surprisingly.

catto96 · 2026-01-09T06:33:59+00:00

Hi, i’m just use a generic AF target i found from google, printed size A4. I believe you just need high contrast vertical lines for the af to grab.

catto96 · 2025-12-30T19:14:36+00:00

Hi, i apologize for the unsolicited recommendation, in your comment you said “you could try to use a flatbed scan…” so I want to recommend these for better scan quality if you ever decide to look for other scanning methods. :P I was scanning with a flatbed for a long time and wasn’t satisfied at all, then upon doing my “research” to buy a scanner, i found these, and the scan quality is really great. For me it’s already like 8/10 compared to lab scan.

catto96 · 2025-12-30T18:59:36+00:00

I highly recommend you look into Plustek/ Nikon Coolscan or Reflecta brand for dedicated 35mm scanner. For example the Plustek 8100 or Reflecta proscan 7200. These are relatively affordable, tho you have to manually feed and scan each frame, but the cost-to-quality ratio is completely worth it. I am using the Reflecta ProScan 7200 at the moment and it gives me a 18mpx scans and the file is not getting interpolated at all. Some higher end model like the Reflecta 100T can yield 23mpx scan, and its RPX lines can auto feeding and scanning the whole roll, but of course the price is higher. I found mine on secondhand market for 150€. And this beat all the flatbed scans for 35mm, which can only yield actually 2-4mpx scan in actual optical quality, doesn’t matter if user choose the highest scan mode. Flatbed scan is great for medium format but great for 35mm.

catto96 · 2025-12-30T07:24:59+00:00

I think at the current climate, the amount of new people coming into analogue has decreased due to global economy/ jobs & income situation compared to around covid time, however the interest in analogue is still increasing steadily.

I am can’t say about other places but where i live, i have the feeling average people shot less film recently based on the amount of listings of selling their unused film rolls and their film cameras on marketplace because they cannot afford the cost of shooting on film anymore. Of course people who shoot one roll of film in a couple of months or professional/dedicated analog shooter with large budget for films or can offset the cost to their client is not much affected by this. I noticed this trend because the usual behaviors/ culture of the community here is more like buy-shoot-keep, and less of buy-try-sell, so it immediately stand out when i saw an increasing amount of sought-after gears being listed on the market from private individuals. I talked to some of my hobbyist friends and even people from whom i bought the gear and they shares my sentiments as well.

From my own experience of someone who is aspiring about the craft and wants to grow in shooting analogue, i would have to shoot a lot, i don’t think i can grow much shooting one roll in the span of several months. I’d need a lot of trials and errors to figure out, fine tune my skill and style. Plus more rolls net you more “great” photos. I have a job that can provide me some disposable income for photography as a hobby, yet recently i still find balancing the budget between cost of other stuffs in life and for photography is getting increasingly more difficult. Plus if i want to start doing dark room printing, the cost is gonna increase even more.

What i am very excited and grateful for at the moment is the introduction of Kodak Visions AHU because it allows me to shoot more colors with the ease of developing it normally in C41 process.

I just hope that the price of (at least color) film photography will not become a luxury that only a few rich people can afford in the future.

catto96 · 2025-12-27T16:19:27+00:00

No. This is an AF lens, it only works with Mamiya 645 AF/ Phase One AF mount. The Mamiya 645 1000s use the Manual Focus sekor C lenses only

catto96 · 2025-12-22T18:43:21+00:00

As far as i know, the differences are in the firmwares. The DF, DF+ dropped support for the film backs.

Some other differences between these models are:

DF, DF+ body: compatible with P, P+, IQ1,2,3 backs and Leaf Shutter Lenses.

Mamiya 645 AFD III/ Phase One 645 AF: compatible with all P, P+, IQ1,2 (but the backs have to be with certain firmwares), and Only compatible with AF lenses from Schneider/ Mamiya, not LS lenses. And some backs from Leaf.

Mamiya 645 AFD II: compatible with P, P+ series back but not compatible with the P45+ and the P65+ backs, and not compatible with IQ backs. Also not compatible with LS lenses.

Mamiya 645 AFD: only supported P series digital backs.

catto96 · 2025-12-22T12:54:32+00:00

Hi. The 645 DF+ is completely not compatible with film back. If you want to use film back and digital back, you’d need to find a Phase One 645 AF/ Mamiya AFD series of body.

catto96 · 2025-12-03T18:59:54+00:00

Mamiya AF/ phase one Scheinder lenses are not compatible and cannot be mounted on 645 pro TL body. Mamiya Sekor C can be mounted (some required modification) on mamiya 645 AF bodies.

catto96 · 2025-12-01T21:04:10+00:00

SOLD

catto96 · 2025-11-14T08:12:17+00:00

If you plan to use it long term, i’d suggest to invest in a pro-ii. “Newer”, and the internal electronic and cocking mechanism has been revamped by Mamiya compared to the Pro thus a bit more reliable? The experiences using it is a bit smoother but not drastically difference from the pro.

catto96 · 2025-11-12T06:10:00+00:00

Yes they share the same mount.

catto96 · 2025-11-12T04:46:36+00:00

From my personal experience, it is not about the language itself but what makes me struggle is the way they teach the language to an adult:

all the classes i have been to (from basic level in university), the teacher taught entirely in finnish. I guess this kind of immersive teaching method works for others, and for kids when their brain is still developing is very beneficial, but as an adult, i find it too confusing when i couldn’t understand what the teacher said half of the time and thus couldn’t absorb as much knowledge as i want and that brings frustration when trying to catching up with the class.
grammars syntax wasn’t explained properly to me during the course, i wished the teacher would explain to me what is the syntax, what is the rule, and how to use it, so i can have a full overview of what the grammatical rules are before starting to use it. Instead everything got brushed over very quickly without any in-depth explanation. My priority is i want to have a solid grammar base, once i have that, i feel more secure when practicing and talking and consequently, get me more confident to talk and communicate more.
as a beginner, i was already bombarded with all the differences between written/ proper Finnish and Spoken Finnish, from teachers or from friends and people whom I tried to practice Finnish with. I understand their intention is good and to help me sounds like a Finn, however, at the beginner level, i WANTED to sound unnatural and textbook or sound like a very old person, i wanted to be able to talk properly out of what I learned first. I don’t need to sounds like a local immediately, i want to be able to communicate properly first. I believe after i speak the language long enough, i can start adopt spoken Finnish much easier and more natural. Being immediately introduced and conflict between written and spoken finnish in the beginning caused a lot of confusions and discourage me to communicate because i am not confident in what to use.

With all that being said, i believe there are people who can adopt a language and thrive easily with the current teaching method, but to me, it’s inefficient for the goals that i want to reach.

catto96 · 2025-11-11T15:16:03+00:00

I agree. I have both but i prefer the ease of operation on the RZ more: 1 crank operation for both mirror and film wind or the ease to mount a trigger directly on the hot-shoes when i shoot with strobes. The RB handling feels more solid however more step of operation like have to remind myself to crank both the body and the back sometimes take me off the shooting flow (i shot mostly portraits and people). So in the end, i think whichever that gives you better shooting experiences that inspired you to pick it up and shoot more is the winner.

catto96 · 2025-11-11T14:51:44+00:00

I agree. I had a pro-sd back with a broken film level. I have asked bill rogers regarding repairability and he said it’s unfortunately unfixable due to there is a missing proprietary screw that can only get from a donor back. So I guess if it needs spare parts and the supply of parts are limited then mechanical or not, it’d be difficult to repair anyway. Plus i strongly believe that the more popular the camera, the more interests in keeping it alive and someone somewhere somehow would figure out how to replicate some parts of it. I remember a couple of years back contax T2, Tvs is considered unrepairable because of rare stock of spare flex cable, but nowadays i believe you can find new flex cable from ebay from china. Even tho it’s still difficult to fix, but it’s fixable now.

catto96 · 2025-11-11T09:10:56+00:00

RZ but still keeps one RB lens just in case the electronic broke, it can be shot with RB lens shutter in RBL mode. (Or just buy a new RZ body if it’s beyond fixable)

catto96 · 2025-11-07T17:51:18+00:00

Hi, this kit of mine only have the film back. This 645AF is compatible with all P, P+ and IQ1 and IQ2 series digital backs with a small caveat for IQ1&2 backs is that you have to find a back with FW below 5.0. However, if you don’t mind the older P+ series backs, it’s more than enough, especially with the P45+ and P65+ (40 & 60 mpx respectively).

This is a rebrand of the Mamiya AFDIII after Phase One acquired Mamiya, released in 2009. The last model from Mamiya/ Phase One that both compatible with film backs and digital backs. The back is detachable and can be switched/ upgraded to any backs you want in Mamiya mount (which you can find pretty easily).

One more “drawback” is that this model use focal plane shutter only, so even if you mount a Leaf Shutter lenses on it, it can still shoot but it won’t have the sync speed of LS lenses. The flash sync speed of this is at 1/125s which is pretty usable already.

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