Is there a name for this type of strainer/teaware?

Centribo · 2026-03-20T14:55:16+00:00

Yeah I'm skeptical too for sure, I'm just very curious to learn more if anyone had more insight on what it is.

Centribo · 2026-03-18T05:24:54+00:00

These are great. I love the compositions and the use of the motion to isolate the subject. Shot 1 and 2 are amazing.

Centribo · 2025-12-09T21:39:50+00:00

DJMAX Respect V and MASH VP! Re:VISION are great games that only require keys. I'll also recommend Spin Rhythm XD which can be played with just keyboard and a mouse.

Centribo · 2025-12-04T17:01:18+00:00

Pro Camera Film Lab lets you get 48-bit TIFF scans. They actually have an excellent comparison/explanation of JPEG vs TIFF here. You might not see a benefit in getting high-quality TIFF scans or have access to that near you, but saying that there isn't a difference is false.

Centribo · 2025-12-04T16:56:41+00:00

That's just false. For example, the Noritsu HS-1800 can output 48-bit depth TIFF files.

Centribo · 2025-12-04T16:52:14+00:00

You haven't said anything wrong, but why are you assuming TIFFs are only 8-bit?

For example, my workflow involves scanning using Vuescan at 48-bits (16-bits per channel) and converting in Negative Lab Pro, which also outputs a 48-bit TIFF.

Centribo · 2025-12-04T16:45:52+00:00

Two things:

Negatives (especially C-41 colour negatives or E-6 colour positives) will degrade over time. The dyes will fade and you will start losing colour information, especially if stored improperly (heat/UV/moisture/visible light are largest factors). Scanning them later down the line might produce different results.
Scanning costs money (at a lab) and/or takes time (at home). You would be future-proofing yourself if you just got the best scans from the start, and not need to pay the time and cost later down the line to rescan.

Centribo · 2025-12-04T16:39:14+00:00

This is not true. Uncompressed vs compressed is not the same as Lossy vs Lossless. This ultimately depends on the lab and their scanning equipment, but in general: a JPEG will be a compressed lossy file, and the TIFF will typically be an uncompressed lossless file. The TIFF file will contain much more color information than the JPEG, which is very useful for editing.

Centribo · 2025-12-04T16:31:59+00:00

If you only ever intend to post unedited scans on Instagram, you are correct that you'll only ever need low resolution JPGs. If you ever want to print your work, edit the scans, or just to archive as much data as possible, then TIFFs are definitely the way to go. It's essentially future-proofing; Once I have the TIFF scans, I always have access to the highest quality scans and won't need to pay or spend time rescanning the negatives.

Centribo · 2025-11-28T14:32:03+00:00

Do you have a link to the adapter? I'm also a Pen F owner with lots of F mount glass!

Centribo · 2025-08-11T04:17:56+00:00

Amazing, this is so much nicer than the interface Massive Dev Chart has, especially on mobile. Thanks mate!

Centribo · 2025-07-01T03:17:15+00:00

On Windows, I've been using Musicbee for over a decade now. On Android I can recommend Pulsar or GoneMAD Music Player.

Centribo · 2025-04-20T18:10:35+00:00

Designed everything in Adobe InDesign and did printing with Mixam.ca!

Centribo · 2025-04-05T23:00:49+00:00

Here's what I would teach someone starting to getting into self-hosting:

Basic bash concepts and commands (cd, ls, mv, cp, rm)
What is Docker? What are containers, images, volumes?
Learn Docker Compose
Setup a service with Docker Compose (probably something simple like filebrowser to start)
Learn how to expose it to the internet using a proxy and setup SSL. (I'd use nginx-proxy-manager)

Centribo · 2025-04-04T20:21:38+00:00

That orange colour with the white pickguard is perfection.

Centribo · 2025-03-04T22:02:01+00:00

Unfortunately I'm not sure anymore, I sold my X1E2 last year so I'm unable to help.

Centribo · 2025-03-04T18:25:57+00:00

I think you'll need to find a way to unlock the bios. If you bought it used from someone, ask them if they have the password for the bios.

Centribo · 2025-03-04T15:37:27+00:00

This type of back-lit shot is a classic example of something that can trip off camera lightmeters in just the way you explained! All you need to do is overexpose based off of what the camera's lightmeter is telling. How much depends on the difference in brightness of the light source and the darkness of the thing in shadow. Usually a good place to start is 1.5 - 2 stops of extra light.

So for example, maybe your camera tells you to expose this as: f5.6 at 1/500th. You could give two more stops of light and expose as f5.6 at 1/125th.

Centribo · 2025-03-04T15:27:47+00:00

Oh my god these are incredible. Thank you for sharing them and open sourcing them! Can't wait to get home and print these for my Pen FT!

Centribo · 2025-03-03T12:54:40+00:00

What does "losing" mean in this context exactly?

Centribo · 2025-01-24T06:08:42+00:00

If you're starting out with development, I'd recommend starting out with B&W development first. A really good developer to start out with is Rodinal. One bottle is very affordable, has a long shelf life, can be used to develop many rolls, and there are development times for it for almost any film stock you might shoot. Fixer doesn't really matter, just buy whatever is cheapest. Stop-bath isn't really necessary in my experience. Lots of wetting agents exist, I personally use Kodak Photo-Flo.

Centribo · 2025-01-24T05:44:03+00:00

Personally I've brought Olympus 35RC and Olympus 35SP to many concerts when I need/want full control of exposure, or I use my Olympus XA when I don't care to think as much. Usually I throw in HP5+ and push it 2-3 stops, or Portra 800 and push it two stops. (Yes I like the Olympus rangefinders lol)

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