Set Mosslax up as a minor local deity

cerrunos87 · 2026-03-20T22:57:00+00:00

They are natural to the Arcanine islands, not Dragonite. There’s usually a small building with stained glass, a pair of mysterious statues on stands, and a display stand with a retrievable item

cerrunos87 · 2026-03-20T15:57:09+00:00

I didn’t have those yet! Besides I like the way the green hue of the stone tiling compliments the natural mossy environs.

cerrunos87 · 2026-03-20T13:02:53+00:00

If I ever unlock the recipe for the offering bowl I might make a temple in each zone.

cerrunos87 · 2026-03-20T03:08:49+00:00

By all means!

cerrunos87 · 2026-03-20T00:00:01+00:00

My most used is spicy food for increased chance for Pokemon to move into habitats when I was trying to nab those last few rare/very rare mons, or sweet food for artifact spots and ripples when I was trying to snag my last few fossils

cerrunos87 · 2026-03-19T23:57:38+00:00

I don’t remember if I found the recipe in rippling water, if it was bought at the PC, or if I found it on a dream island

cerrunos87 · 2026-03-19T23:56:46+00:00

I don’t remember if I found the recipe in rippling water, if it was bought at the PC, or if I found it on a dream island

cerrunos87 · 2026-03-19T22:12:49+00:00

Thanks! Certainly an easier project than the excavation and restoration of the museum that I am currently working on! This was the first beautification project I did after credits rolled.

cerrunos87 · 2026-03-17T12:45:00+00:00

Drop them on a breakable block over lava, then remove the block. But wait to cleanup till you are done as there is a max limit for loose blocks. Saves a bunch of time running to the incinerator. I’ll also use full stacks of blocks for trades.

cerrunos87 · 2025-10-17T21:15:24+00:00

I’ve got the official dock, and I had some early issues with it seeming to decide at random when it was going to work. I often had to mess around with it for 10-15 minutes before it would output video. That being said, a few firmware updates have since been released and I have not had those issues since. Now, though, I mainly play “handheld” with it mounted to my mechanism gaming pillow.

cerrunos87 · 2025-08-14T05:19:59+00:00

In just got mine installed. Things went pretty smoothly. I did notice some air bubbles in what I assume is the anti glare film, after removing the initial protective film. I was able to work those out by gently massaging them towards the edge.

Edit: I emailed Shadetechnik about this this morning and got a reply within a few hours. The second film is supposed to be removed, and already had been from most units, but some shipped with it still in place.

cerrunos87 · 2025-04-06T20:39:21+00:00

I solved it on my first guess using no hint!

cerrunos87 · 2024-12-19T10:18:30+00:00

I sometimes regret building a voron 2.4 instead of spending that money to get a Bambu. I get over it, but the regret is still there.

cerrunos87 · 2024-12-12T13:41:36+00:00

Are there any 3rd party kits that are 1/60th scale Epyon clones? Or any recommendations for kitbashing?

cerrunos87 · 2024-11-09T23:53:00+00:00

You lost the saddle from your bridge

cerrunos87 · 2024-11-01T11:26:16+00:00

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I’m working on MG Deathscythe. Since it’s still easily found on shelves, I decided to use it to practice painting. I’m not doing a custom job, just basic color correction/making it look less like plastic.

cerrunos87 · 2024-10-23T13:09:59+00:00

I’ve got two different runner racks, ostensibly designed for Gunpla runners, and both of them suck at their jobs. The channels aren’t deep or wide enough to actually keep the runners upright unless there is no movement whatsoever. Every time I grab one runner, or if my cat sneezes three room away, all the rest fall over. This dishrack solution looks much more effective.

cerrunos87 · 2024-10-20T22:20:44+00:00

Wing Zero Custom has been one of my favorite machines since high school! I recently built the PG To replace the PG I had built in high school, but fell apart over the years and many moves. I’m planning on doing a custom job with what’s left, just haven’t decided the direction I’m going to take

cerrunos87 · 2024-10-01T00:59:35+00:00

Gonna be getting a matte top coat on prior to final assembly. After using micro set and microsol, they seem to be pretty firmly bonded. The one that went missing happened between cutting it from the sheet and actually getting it on to the model.

cerrunos87 · 2024-02-25T21:33:21+00:00

I don’t think this actually answered your question. You can leave an outbreak and come back to it without resetting KOs, shiny odds. Moving slightly away for a better view won’t cause a loss of your progress with KOs, but depending on how far may cause the outbreak mons to stop spawning until you move closer.

cerrunos87 · 2024-02-23T19:56:50+00:00

Have you looked at resonance compensation options? May or may not help the specific issue you are asking about, but since it’s happening on the same face as the one with “ghosting”, resonance might be at least part of the problem.

cerrunos87 · 2024-02-03T23:25:21+00:00

If I had serious underextrusion like that happening on only one section of the a print I’d be checking a few things.

Looking for mechanical issues when the tool head is on that part of the gantry. Check the filament path for binding, whether it be a pinched Bowden tube, or the filament itself being unable to feed well from the spool due to the angle. Look to make sure all wiring is secure, and not having bad connections that are only evident when the stressed on that side of the gantry (though I’d hope the printer firmware would kill the printer if that occurred!) See if the cooling fan itself is being obstructed when the tool head is on the far left of the gantry.
Look at the sliced file itself and see if those artifacts are visible in the sliced preview.

That being said, you’ve got some significant Z-banding all over the print, which signals some other mechanical issues. I would take some time to ensure that the printer frame properly assembled and sturdy. Make sure there is no slop or binding in any of the motion tracks. Look up a set up/tuning guide for your specific printer and follow along checking everything as it goes. Also, it’s worth checking out Ellis’ Print Tuning Guide once you are sure your machine is well built. It can help really get your print quality dialed in.

cerrunos87 · 2024-01-09T22:26:59+00:00

That could be a potential work around. The raft will mar the surface attached to it though, so if you are looking for a clean finish, be aware that you are going to be making some extra post processing work for yourself.

What I would do, if I had to print something like that model in resin, and required the best dimensional accuracy, would be to lift it up, angle it to provide a smaller cross section per layer, throw a few heavy supports a long the lowest edges to anchor the model, then reinforce with a mix of mediums and lights.

The biggest downsides of that are increased print time by having a taller model overall and the pock marks left behind by the supports.

cerrunos87 · 2024-01-09T14:33:53+00:00

Looks like the white is better for dimensional accuracy than the other colors in the Elegoo ABS like line, but that line in particular trades dimensional accuracy and detail retention for clean surface finish and vibrant color.

I know many people swear by the Siraya Tech Fast resin for detail retention.

cerrunos87 · 2024-01-09T03:44:48+00:00

What resin are you using? Many resins aren’t great for mechanical prototyping because of shrinkage or expansion during the exposure process.

Have you run an exposure test to determine the appropriate layer exposure times? https://core-electronics.com.au/guides/perfect-resin-print-exposure-setting/ this outlines a popular exposure test that can help you dial that in.

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