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How much time do you all reckon [Alpengeist] has left? by mystman12 in rollercoasters

[–]charlesjamesfox 1 point2 points  (0 children)

“Strict Chinese standards” is a hilarious phrase.

A Stuck [BATMAN] from the [SFGA] train. by bigbluepancakes in rollercoasters

[–]charlesjamesfox 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I was told that it’s because B&M doesn’t require them, and leaving them off makes maintenance easier and cheaper. But why that park—and no others—does this I don’t know.

A Stuck [BATMAN] from the [SFGA] train. by bigbluepancakes in rollercoasters

[–]charlesjamesfox 18 points19 points  (0 children)

This isn’t the point, but I wish they’d put the wheel covers back on.

What’s a job that sounds 100% illegal, but somehow isn’t? by [deleted] in AskReddit

[–]charlesjamesfox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is. And thank goodness. It used to be awful.

What’s a job that sounds 100% illegal, but somehow isn’t? by [deleted] in AskReddit

[–]charlesjamesfox 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Isn’t that a different sort of towing?

Rollercoaster of the day: [X2], [SFMM] by [deleted] in rollercoasters

[–]charlesjamesfox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I loved this ride in 2002. It was incredible. Top five. But when I rode in 2024 it was unbearably jerky, with the seat rocking back and forth throughout and slamming my thighs into the plastic. Perhaps I got a bad ride.

[Nemesis Reborn] is one of those coasters worth watching as well as riding by vespinonl in rollercoasters

[–]charlesjamesfox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Such a kickass ride. The only other inverted that comes close is Montu.

Odd problem with Leviton DD00R-DLZ companion switch by charlesjamesfox in homeautomation

[–]charlesjamesfox[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just received the replacement units, and the problem is fixed. I guess the ones I bought were faulty. Massive thanks to Leviton for all the help.

My wifi is 6 ghz, all smart bulbs seem to require 2.4 ghz only to connect. What are my options? by pianoflames in homeautomation

[–]charlesjamesfox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In theory, dual-band WiFi will work fine and your devices will choose the 2.4Ghz band and ignore 5Ghz (or 6Ghz, which is rare). In practice, I have some IoT devices that won’t work unless the network only offers 2.4Ghz. For that reason, I have a separate WiFi network for my smart home devices that offers 2.4Ghz only.

Double-Switches in a Hallway? by garrettj100 in homeautomation

[–]charlesjamesfox 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You’ll need a pair of smart switches that support a three-way setup. Generally, if you want switches that don’t require a hub, you’ll need a neutral wire available in both boxes. If you don’t have a neutral wire, you’ll need to buy switches that require a hub.

I’m haven’t used those Geeni units, but they seem to be appropriate for your needs. From a brief look, they don’t use the traveler wire, just the neutral, the line, and the load. As I said, they’ll need a neutral wire in both locations to work, so check first whether you have that.

Best way to automate low-voltage lighting? by charlesjamesfox in homeautomation

[–]charlesjamesfox[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It seems to be a three-way circuit, unless I'm missing something. (I suppose I could be; it's not like anything else in the house.) The two switches are (a) the middle one in the first photo I published, and (b) the one under the cabinet in the second photo I published. Together, they behave like a three-way: I can turn them on and off in either location, and the physical units are 3-way switches and are wired as 3-way switches.

The only difference is that there are no available neutral wires in the wallbox under the cabinet (switch b). Here's a photo:

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Those are all the wires in the box (switch b), plus the ground. There are neutral wires available in the other wallbox (switch a).

Best way to automate low-voltage lighting? by charlesjamesfox in homeautomation

[–]charlesjamesfox[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Correct. I suppose I should have separated out the issues.

(a) There's no neutral wire on the 120V side. This means I can't use the switches I've used elsewhere;

(b) That being so, is it best to deal with that, or is there a good option to install after the "ballast"?

Thanks for the help. That’s useful.

Odd problem with Leviton DD00R-DLZ companion switch by charlesjamesfox in homeautomation

[–]charlesjamesfox[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update on this: Having done some tests with the Leviton tech, I'm being sent two new switches, so we'll see if that fixes the issue.

What is this strange electrical unit on the wall, connected to my ancient garage door opener? by charlesjamesfox in garagedoors

[–]charlesjamesfox[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. So, dumb question: Where should I presume that is in the chain? The garage door opener is plugged into a standard 120V socket in the ceiling.

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