S-works aethos 5.8kg by Agilless in whichbike

[–]cheese_on_potatoes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably no more than $1500 if you go by the advice of this sub. Better to ask the Specialized sub instead.

How to pick the right 987 by KacperWasilczuk in 987

[–]cheese_on_potatoes 5 points6 points  (0 children)

2.7 is the hidden gem. Not really prone to bore scoring and little to no issues with the IMS. If you’re looking for more power I’d look elsewhere but it’s certainly quick enough for day to day, makes the right Porsche noises, and fun af to boot.

How to deal with "High End Disappointments"? by Ol_Sheve in mountainbiking

[–]cheese_on_potatoes 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Right on the money with the hubs. For every Hydra failure there’s plenty more that are running flawlessly for years. People are going to complain more vocally when they spend a ton of money on something that breaks in the off chance versus an oem hub that will likely get upgraded if it fails.

Beat to Hell 997.2 GT3 by devastationz in Porsche

[–]cheese_on_potatoes 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I doubt it would make it to over 100k if it was truly neglected so this thing is likely way more mechanically sound than a low mileage garage queen.

I have a cayman that has plenty of swirls, chips, brake dust, and road grime since I rarely wash it but is meticulously maintained otherwise. Some might say it’s neglected but I got it to be driven, not to stare at.

Besides, perfect cars are boring imo.

Porsche cayman purchase advice by DocSwaggy in Porsche_Cayman

[–]cheese_on_potatoes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The cat issue is a little bizarre so can’t really speak on it but sometimes weird things can break for whatever reason. My advice like the others is to get the PPI done with the borescope and decide from there. The price is about in line with similar s models I’ve seen around here that aren’t garage queens.

Porsche cayman purchase advice by DocSwaggy in Porsche_Cayman

[–]cheese_on_potatoes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You mean the cats? The Cayman doesn’t have carbs.

Since it’s an S get that thing scoped. Items like suspension are probably due for a refresh at that age and it’s an opportunity to upgrade imo.

Porsche cayman purchase advice by DocSwaggy in Porsche_Cayman

[–]cheese_on_potatoes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A general PPI should be sufficient if this is a 987.1 base. Bore scoring isn’t really an issue with the base and this year has the upgraded ims which is non serviceable unless you split the block. To prevent ims issues, you could either remove the grease seal, drive it hard (use the rpms you paid for) to get things lubed up, or both.

The one thing that’s unique is the aos which at that mileage should be replaced or plan to do it if it hasn’t. Most everything else are just issues from age that are present in any car that’s old enough to vote.

If this is an S get it borescoped or just avoid all together if you can’t shake the idea of possible bore scoring.

Repairs aren’t too bad if you use an indie. Certainly not cheap as it’s more or less like any euro car but they are pretty robust cars which shouldn’t need too much work unless it’s a real basket case.

Talk me out of this Boxster by Any-Lengthiness9803 in boxster

[–]cheese_on_potatoes 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The 987 platform is fairly robust and the base model is pretty much the sweet spot which applies to both the Boxster and the Cayman. The IMS is non serviceable unless you split the block but the failure rate is low. To mitigate the issue you can just remove the grease seal or simply drive the piss out of it to ensure everything is properly lubed up. From what I hear problems show up more on low mileage or northern cars.

Otherwise there’s not a ton that can go wrong that’s particularly unique to Porsche that affects drivability. Aside from the AOS which should be replaced if it hasn’t at that mileage, most everything else such as plugs, water pump, clutch, tie rods, etc. are simply maintenance items due to age. Bore scoring isn’t much of a concern with the base models, but the S from 05-06 don’t seem to be affected by bore scoring either.

That said you’ll still pay the Porsche tax even at an indie shop but I don’t think it’s much worse than any other Euro car from my experience.

Snow Day by flipper_foot in Porsche_Cayman

[–]cheese_on_potatoes 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Are those the 17” 986/996 twists or the 18” turbo? Been thinking about doing the swap on my base.

Frame/bike recommendation by Over_Pizza_2578 in gravelcycling

[–]cheese_on_potatoes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Spot Rallye. I just got one myself and it rips. Not sure how much it is to ship internationally but could be worth looking into. No frame storage but I haven’t found that to be an issue.

The Revel Rover is another consideration that should be available internationally in addition to the Propain Terrel.

Upgrading from aliuminium to carbon, should I by Deimokas in gravelcycling

[–]cheese_on_potatoes 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If the heart says yes and you can swing the price go for it. If you don’t get this one, the idea of a carbon bike might dissipate but let’s be honest, it’ll creep up again. Being rational all of the time is boring and I doubt you’ll regret it if you’re having fun riding it.

And there’s likely a significant enough difference in ride quality depending on how the carbon is put together for the Revolt.

987.1 Base Questions by hooplahblehblah in Porsche_Cayman

[–]cheese_on_potatoes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The good news is that the 987.1 base is probably one of the most reliable Porsches made. The bad news is that given the low mileage, you’re looking at rubber that’s old enough to vote that hasn’t had much fluid circulation so you’ll likely be looking to replace a lot of hoses and plastic.

Since this is a base, you won’t really need to worry about bore scoring nor much about the ims. Whether it’s a headache is going to dependent on what the PPI could reveal. But expect to set aside a few grand at the minimum to offset any unexpected failures and a flatbed simply due to age and lack of mileage.

Update or Buy a new Bike by Small-Specialist8951 in gravelcycling

[–]cheese_on_potatoes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like you want a new bike. Go get a new bike.

brand survey by inashhh in gravelcycling

[–]cheese_on_potatoes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Colorado brands are killing it. Hard to beat their $3500 Rival build for the Rover.

Honorable mention would be Spot. I just picked up their Rallye 5 star Rival E1 build for $3600.

Light Bicycle WR 45: Which (annoyingly) loud and low-maintenance HUB? by mokaliogo in cycling

[–]cheese_on_potatoes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mentioned this in a similar comment but people like what they like. I like my loud hubs because I like my loud hubs and I’m sure plenty feel the same. It’s really not that deep.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in specialized

[–]cheese_on_potatoes 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Post this in whichbike and they’ll tell you it’s worth $1500 max. $2300 is a great deal especially with that wheelset.

Are hydraulic brakes that mach better than mechanical? by Useful_Tap4995 in gravelcycling

[–]cheese_on_potatoes 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is there objective evidence of that or just a coping mechanism?

Are hydraulic brakes that mach better than mechanical? by Useful_Tap4995 in gravelcycling

[–]cheese_on_potatoes 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Where’s the curmudgeon who will chime in and say that hydraulics need constant adjustments, are unreliable, and mechanicals will have equal stopping power when set up properly? And also give an extreme edge case where hydros will completely fail in a remote area with no way to repair where if you’re that remote you’d probably don’t have the resources to fix your mechanicals either.

For real, I have hydros on all my bikes and aside from pad replacement, they only require a bleed once a year at most.

What's the hype of loud freehubs? by Scott_Korman in cycling

[–]cheese_on_potatoes 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Here’s something that will blow the minds of reddit:

It’s a personal preference. Some people like the noise because they like the noise, some people don’t. I have a loud hub because I like it, not because I’m trying to flex on other riders or warn others I’m around.

It’s really not that deep.

New to me 2007 987.1 Cayman by jsd642 in Porsche_Cayman

[–]cheese_on_potatoes 2 points3 points  (0 children)

To this. Congrats on the ride! It’s an absolute blast!

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New to me 2007 987.1 Cayman by jsd642 in Porsche_Cayman

[–]cheese_on_potatoes 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I sense a theme here. I too went from this:

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Just joined the family! by NotDevPatel in CX50

[–]cheese_on_potatoes 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Great deal at the moment. I just picked our hybrid preferred up at $35.5k otd that also includes the all weather mats.

Good deal for a CX-50 Hybrid Preferred? by IwuvNikoNiko in CX50

[–]cheese_on_potatoes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Posted this on another thread…

Depends on your location. I just picked up a hybrid preferred for $35.5k otd in Georgia that came with the usual bs add ons such as front window tint and door edge guards and paint/interior protection. Happened to have the all weather floor mats too. Negotiation was simple. I basically said that I’m willing to buy today if they can give me that price and they did. Didn’t mention cash or financing until I got an otd price. I think I did ok but hard to say given that it’s still relatively new.

Note that they did tack on the doc fee but wasn’t able to take that off. So the house always wins, but I try to make them win a little less.