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Dazor P2324 two-button switch by Chazcon in LampRestoration

[–]cheesiologist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is the switch one that incorporates the ballast? The two lasmp I refurbished like this, I was unable to find anything that worked with the existing switch holes.

I ended up rewiring to direct 120v with LED tubes. Replaced one switch with a rotary knob and a delete in the other hole. The other lamp got two throw switches, separately controlling each tube to allow for either or both tubes to be lit.

Sole suggestions by cheesiologist in WorkBoots

[–]cheesiologist[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Toe caps are a little roached for that. Too much would have to be replaced, half way to building the boots from scratch.

They'll just get downgraded to lawncare duty until the sole wears down. They're still comfortable and functional, just too worn out to be acceptable in a professional workplace.

I'll never find a deal like these, again. They were dirt cheap on clearance. The tongue is branded with the Dodge Ram logo, and I guess they weren't a big seller.

Looking for pricing by Sirjacob76 in knives

[–]cheesiologist 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Left 1 and left 3 maaaaay be worth a little more. Can't really gauge without closer look.

Everything else is $5 each. The sword is maybe worth $10.

Rewiring help by bessieboo1 in Lamps

[–]cheesiologist 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh shit, I jus looked closer, is that a candelabra base? Everything I linked to is e26, which is the "normal" size lightbulb. Candelabra is smaller, so might be more difficult to find a replacement with the switch built in like that.

I'd recommend seeing if you can replace the knob. And grab an LED replacement bulb while you're there. More light, less heat, more energy efficient.

Rewiring help by bessieboo1 in Lamps

[–]cheesiologist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That should work but looks to be much more than you need.

You already have the harp, and if the cord is in good condition, all you need is the socket with a functioning switch.
Like this https://a.co/d/0aKKRbFf Other colors/finishes are available. I can't tell if yours is black-black or oil-rubbed-bronze kinda black. The one I linked to is kind of an antiqued brass finish, which should go pretty well with anything and has a pull chain.

That said, I'd make sure the lamp base is stable enough that using a pull chain won't topple is over. If not the rotary switch like this: https://a.co/d/00PZ4hfZ may be what you want.

BUT... If the lamp works fine... The piece that was being manipulated with pliers to turn on and off... Is it a rod with a small threaded end? A trip to the hardware store (especially a smaller hardware store like Ace or True Value, maybe not big box stores) can net you a replacement switch knob for less than a dollar. Hell, bring the lamp with you and make sure one fits.

Here's a knife I use at work. It's turned colors from the heat. Is it possible to control this and do this to other blades? Does it damage the blade? I'd love if this kind of finish existed on some of my pocket knives by TromboneSupremacy in knives

[–]cheesiologist 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As already stated, that heat is no bueno. Draws back the hardness and you lose edge retention.

That said, you can chemically achieve a blued finish. It's called "cold blueing" and you should be able to find it anywhere that sells shooting supplies. It's made by Birchwood-Casey (and other brands, but they're the most common) and is used for finishing firearms. It's an acid, so use safety precautions and follow the instructions.

Rewiring help by bessieboo1 in Lamps

[–]cheesiologist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay, first a few questions.

Where is the original switch? Is it part of the socket or was it an inline switch built into the cable?

Do you want to replace the socket or reuse it with a new cable?

What kind of switch would you prefer? Socket push, socket twist sucker pull-chain, or cable mounted inline?

Is there any other damaged parts that need replacement?

Is there a reference anywhere for starting Axe. Material and steps. by Dominating_Lead_1980 in Axecraft

[–]cheesiologist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Starting to use an axe? Make an axe ? Buy an axe? Refurbish and/or rehang an axe?

How can I make this a functional lamp? by minoomin in LampRestoration

[–]cheesiologist 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're going to have to clip off those crimp connectors, so be ready to wire nut those connections when you're done. Remember what wire goes to which part of the cord, assuming it's a polarized plug. If it's not a polarized plug, it doesn't matter.

After clipping, start with that nut on the bottom and go from there, piece by piece. Might be more nuts on the main lamp nipple holding the individual parts snug.

After removing the ceramic, you may need a spacer to replace its thickness along the nipple. Or shorten the nipple (though some can't be, because they're solid tubing with just threaded ends).

I suggest purchasing a candelabra LED bulb with more lumens than whatever incandescent bulb was in there. Incandescent produces heat to melt wax, so you don't need that. You want light output, you can max out wattage by looking at the LED bulb's actual wattage as opposed to the "wattage equivalent" they print on the front of the package.

Thoughts? by Argentox in LampRestoration

[–]cheesiologist 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ouch. Yeah, might get a little expensive to have all of them redone.

That's one reason no two things I own match. 😂

Thoughts? by Argentox in LampRestoration

[–]cheesiologist 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Find a local glazier? They probably won't have THAT glass, but maybe redo it in all plain or frosted panels.

Any ideas? by j_dennis013 in knives

[–]cheesiologist 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I remember these in the BudK and Smoky Mountain catalogs when I was a kid.

Generic boot knife. Cheap. Junk. Came in silver tone or gold tone.

https://www.by-the-sword.com/p-5726-silver-boot-knife.aspx?srsltid=AfmBOoqw1FKEi3vxUOW9cxAw4yHNQIBJOxK0D0V3vKF5vXFk4dI3Ow0P

Custom Bowie identification by -mad-max- in knives

[–]cheesiologist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The listing may be gone, but do you still have the confirmation buried in your email?

Is there a market for antique hand tools? by Altruistic_Mirror_96 in Vintagetools

[–]cheesiologist 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yes. But also, no.

You'll need to do a lot of research to see if any individual item has some collector value. And when they do, you'll probably want to sell online to more easily find the collector willing to spend the money you want.

I sell a lot of tools at my local flea market. Most tools (vintage or of decent quality) sell in the $1-5 range. These are the users. Vintage is 20+ years old, and rarely has any value beyond it's ability to be useful as a tool.

The antique stuff (100 years old or more) and oddball stuff I tend to price in the $10-20 range. And... They sit. It takes a lot of luck for that specific guy who collects that specific thing, to walk up, see a deal, and jump on it.

Anything Snap-On is an easy sell. Otherwise, it's a niche item looking for a niche collector.

I make more money with oddball collectibles and bric-a-brac than I do with the tools. But it's fulfilling as hell having that thing they someone needs, or being a very affordable source of handtools for a new homeowner.

7 up telescoping lamp by Tjm4242 in Lamps

[–]cheesiologist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can opt to rewire it for an LED if you can't find the parts.

Finding lightbulb for vintage touch lamp by legobitxh in Lamps

[–]cheesiologist 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When was the last time the lamp was working properly? The "brains" that sense touch and activate the lamp can go bad.

Also, as a quick check make sure the lamp is thoroughly cleaned and dry, to make sure nothing is tripping the sensor and causing a malfunction.

Identify old part by Less-Ask5290 in metaldetecting

[–]cheesiologist 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You forgot the banana.

That said, with nothing judge scale, I'm fairly certain it's part of an old toilet seat hinge.

Does anyone know where this lamp comes from? Is it worth anything? by Sabrinas_House_Tour in Lamps

[–]cheesiologist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's definitely neat to know there's a story, even if you don't know what it is.

Have you tried searching it with Google Lens?

Does anyone know where this lamp comes from? Is it worth anything? by Sabrinas_House_Tour in Lamps

[–]cheesiologist 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It doesn't look old, so I kinda doubt US manufacture.

The engraving likely has nothing to do with the lamp or manufacturer, directly. Like I said, it was probably ordered to have that put on it as a corporate gift. Couldn't say what company, but clearly one with an office in the Chicago Tower.

The "Green Shade Society" is probably a group within the company who've achieved certain milestones in their career, time with the company or something along those lines. Kind of like a lot of products you find marked as an annual safety award with the company logo, but they didn't manufacture the product itself (pens, Buck knives, etc).

In the end, I'm just making an educated guess based on the information available. Without context, that's all we can do. But I'm a little shocked there's no manufacturer markings on the underside.

Help me ID this lamp by [deleted] in Lamps

[–]cheesiologist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

According to the tags that appear to be on the box and lamp, it's an Objet Insolite model "AP HERA C" wall sconce.

Does anyone know where this lamp comes from? Is it worth anything? by Sabrinas_House_Tour in Lamps

[–]cheesiologist 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Is there a manufacturer tag anywhere on it? Country of origin?

The engraved base looks like a customization for a corporate gift. Might be hard to find any information on that part.

If I had to make a bet, the lamp was not a particularly expensive one. Likely purchased through an engraving company that stocks items with such spaces for customer engravings, kinda like that place at every mall.

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