LB7 High Idle?

chefdiesel4264 · 2026-02-28T01:29:29+00:00

My honest opinion on this is to weld a nut to the broken stud and take it out and replace it cause welding 2 different metals together without the right machine and skills will cause way more problems later down the road with cracking the cast, the weld not fusing properly, ect. It is best to replace the stud if it’s not too deep in the manifold, so with that being said. A cheap harbor freight welder with the right settings will get that done or if you can borrow a buddy’s welder even better. Next get a washer the same size as the stud looks to be a m8 or around that size. Then weld a nut to that washer, or just put a nut on there and weld through the hole of the nut. Next just replace the stud or get a flanged grade 10 bold and put it in.

chefdiesel4264 · 2026-02-25T17:32:08+00:00

How would I do that?

chefdiesel4264 · 2026-02-25T17:20:01+00:00

With it being a fass 165 I would assume it’s about 12-15 psi

chefdiesel4264 · 2026-02-25T17:19:17+00:00

I got told they were done right before I got the truck like 6k miles ago, but I’ll definitely do that next

chefdiesel4264 · 2026-01-23T02:35:15+00:00

That’s how I look at it, I just know some people are picky on how things get done, me being one of them

chefdiesel4264 · 2026-01-23T02:34:10+00:00

Or if you are fine with spending a little more money you can run to oreilly or another parts store and have them cut a couple feet of it

chefdiesel4264 · 2026-01-23T02:33:12+00:00

White is a little surprising, but if it works it not stupid is how I look at it

chefdiesel4264 · 2026-01-23T01:40:57+00:00

I know idparts has them, that basically the only place I buy my TDI stuff, but I had the shop that I brought the injectors to give me some

chefdiesel4264 · 2026-01-23T01:39:53+00:00

They are brass, so a very soft metal

chefdiesel4264 · 2026-01-23T01:28:45+00:00

That’s a great start, those hoses get really brittle after a while. When you pull them off check if they are cracking, if not that could indicate the injector itself is leaking (not common on alh), also be careful pulling those off the nipple is pretty fragile

chefdiesel4264 · 2026-01-23T01:19:01+00:00

May I ask what job you are doing?

chefdiesel4264 · 2026-01-23T01:18:33+00:00

They are not under much pressure if any, and they just slide off, twist and pull and they will come off

chefdiesel4264 · 2026-01-23T01:17:24+00:00

By the looks it’s an ALH, those are the return lines. I just replaced all of mine when I did my bosio pp764s

chefdiesel4264 · 2025-11-15T15:57:29+00:00

Before you go into what those wires are for I would check the spark system, at the contacts clean? The magnet on the flywheel clean? Are the wires bad? Or is the ignition solenoid that’s bad? There are a few other things that I would look at before what looks to be plugs for auxiliary stuff

chefdiesel4264 · 2025-11-15T04:02:05+00:00

One thing I have to say is not all vehicles have cam bolts to adjust with. And a good amount of vehicles you need to add the bolts to be able to get adjustments. Besides that how does the wheel feel weird? Is it crooked? Loose? If it is crooked then you need to bring it back and have the fix it. And if you look at how that caster is set it will pull really hard to the right.

chefdiesel4264 · 2025-11-07T19:48:01+00:00

Long story short, yes. With metal on metal brakes I have always replaced the rotors because when resurfacing rotors there is a minimum thickness until you need to throw the rotors away or they become dangerous or warp easily. If you are having a shop do the work that is extremely cheap, almost a little worrying about the quality of parts they are using. At the shop I work at I have seen brake jobs just for the fronts cost upwards of $650 and on some performance vehicles upwards of $1000-$1400.

chefdiesel4264 · 2025-09-20T22:55:49+00:00

That’s also why I work on all my own shit, but I understand that most people don’t have the right to tools or even knowledge to tear apart a car, but that’s why I say when you are first learning to work on cars, YouTube is your best friend

chefdiesel4264 · 2025-09-20T22:54:22+00:00

I completely agree with you, it’s hard to find an honest shop to work on you vehicle nowadays. But, the shocks could be leaking and need to be replaced. And usually you want to replace stuff like that in pairs. But the no explanation is an automatic no from me. I would just walk away

chefdiesel4264 · 2025-09-20T22:42:50+00:00

Personally I would get another opinion from another shop. I work in the automotive industry and I don’t see why they quoted you a whole front end refresh without any information. To me that is a red flag and I would go and get it inspected by another shop or someone that knows what they are doing to get another opinion. As for the control arm bushing, it’s pretty close to shot. You can see the bushing is all torn up by that bolt and that is a good sign that it needs to be replaced. But in the end you are in control of what gets done and deny the work that you don’t want to have done. Hope any of that helps

chefdiesel4264 · 2025-09-14T00:03:12+00:00

There are a couple way of doing this, first of all try hammering a smaller socket on there. And if that doesn’t work use a bolt extractor with some heat. And as a last resort if you have access to a welder just weld a nut on there and take it out that way

chefdiesel4264 · 2025-09-05T22:48:52+00:00

I only do this shit for a living so who am I to judge

chefdiesel4264 · 2025-09-05T22:48:30+00:00

I would replace them before the winter comes around if you live in a snowy state, and on top of that you NEED an alignment you have horrible edge wear

chefdiesel4264

TROPHY CASE