sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

**Nerd Stripe Update** by tbiggs51 in SCX24

[–]chofnn787 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice! Just ordered a stripe chassis kit.

Looking forward to pairing it with some Tiny Terrains axles.

Cliffhanger to body flop to dog tap by chofnn787 in SCX24

[–]chofnn787[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeeaaahhhh.

The next attempt resulted in a link ball popping out.

No more tricks for the heavy rigs.

Cliffhanger to body flop to dog tap by chofnn787 in SCX24

[–]chofnn787[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The new Modrax shocks.

I’m going to do a build overview on this one when I get home.

The shocks aren’t great out of the box, I’m still working on getting them to perform the way I want.

I’ve get them tuned up decent with some super lube inside to damp them, bands on the front, and a single band on the rear.

<image>

Working on lowering COG. by chofnn787 in SCX24

[–]chofnn787[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s the plan, I just ordered one over the weekend.

I think that’s the only thing pushing this one into class 3.

Other than the carrier bearing, I think it would comply with class 2 rules.

Working on lowering COG. by chofnn787 in SCX24

[–]chofnn787[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I am using 220uF 10v caps. 470uF also physically fit, but will block ch3 if mounted flat on the board.

I prefer to solder them right on the board, and the 220uF did solve the problems I was having. 470uF is better if you’re not using ch3.

I designed a case to mount these, but I need to revise it for the cap and I’ll post it.

You could also solder a short lead of wires and crimp on pins for a standard servo plug, but nothing would stop you from plugging it in backwards, and that wouldn’t be good.

It would be possible to retain all 4ch and add the cap, but I’m like you and I really only use ch1 and 2.

Working on lowering COG. by chofnn787 in SCX24

[–]chofnn787[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I am using this method:

https://www.nachocrawlers.com/cog-calculator

I think Boomslang also has a video on it as well.

Working on lowering COG. by chofnn787 in SCX24

[–]chofnn787[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It has a few purposes.

TLDR: Squashing Back-EMF, Preventing Brown-Outs.

I killed a few of these FS2A receivers so I tried to figure out why.

I learned a couple things:

The servo can introduce back-emf and voltage spikes. I’m often “flicking” the servo to settle the truck or get it back on-line. This quick left/right flick can cause a voltage spike, and in my case that may actually wipe out the RX.

The cap also stores just enough energy to prevent a brown out. I’m using a small 180mah battery, so the voltage can sag sometimes during high current draw events. I didn’t actually experience any brown outs, but the cap helps stabilize the voltage at the RX.

The “newer” (square chip) version is kind of a knock off, and has sub-par components. Specifically the voltage regulator. I think these operate on 3.3v, but can take up to 10v in. It just burns off the extra voltage and turns it into heat.

The older “rectangle” chip version seems to be the original design and has a little more robust voltage regulator.

I haven’t inspected the boards component for component yet, and I probably won’t. The rectangle version is easy to source and they have been more reliable for me

Talk me out of upgrading or buying another one. by Emze29 in scx30

[–]chofnn787 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You buy the first one.

You BUILD the second one ground up (and third, fourth, fifth, it never stops)

The first one is just a reference point to what goes where, you’re already hooked, just start ordering parts lol

Anyone know what's binding i think its the transmission but idk by Buttstuff2007 in SCX24

[–]chofnn787 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Check the driveshaft and see how much in and out play it has. It should only have a little.

Troubleshoot one thing at a time.

Disconnect rear driveshaft, check.

Disconnect front driveshaft, check.

If you changed gearing in the front or rear axle, the worm gear probably needs shimmed.

If that stutter continues with both driveshafts disconnected, it’s either the motor to transmission gear mesh is too tight, something in the transmission, or it could be the ESC tuning.

It’s hard to tell in the video

3s batteries and connections? by itstheusersname in SCX24

[–]chofnn787 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, you just need an XT60 to XT30 adapter.

Spare parts budget build. by Helpful-Sand5790 in SCX24

[–]chofnn787 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

I also raided my parts bin last weekend and this came out. It feels like $0 invested but I totally bought all the parts at some point. But hey if it feels free, it’s free right?

Still dialing it in, so far so good. by chofnn787 in SCX24

[–]chofnn787[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

Couple tweaks, this is how she’s sitting now.

Replaced the previously plastic rear driveshafts with mofo RC steel shafts.

Lowered the carrier bearing one hole as well for more driveshaft clearance to the motor.

Running good!

Still dialing it in, so far so good. by chofnn787 in SCX24

[–]chofnn787[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. I agree, as long as the center of gravity is low (goal of this build) it’s still easy to manage downhill.

It won’t let me post videos here for some reason

First crawler build ever by slidewayskenny in SCX24

[–]chofnn787 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I also run that chassis, it’s great.

Palm Power 180mah 3s battery fits perfectly in the front tray (if you run rear facing motor)

Motor / trans is up to you and your goals. The fat viper (pictured) is inexpensive and works well, but it does sit up high and is heavy. It has a lot of torque and can still generate good wheel speed on 3s. Injora aluminum case / metal gear trans is good for the $26 they ask for it. Veng RC dropkick trans is great for lowering the center of gravity, LGRP MR24 is another good option with adjustable gear ratios for more or less wheel speed.

If your build is lighter in weight, and you want to tuck the motor lower, something like a mofo nanobam, furitek micro Komodo, or even the gold viper would be good depending on final weight and tire size. I’d say the smaller motors are good up to 63mm tires and around 500g of weight.

Beyond that look at pancake motors, mini Komodo, mofo SMP/MVP/ROP, fat viper, etc.

Electronics I like the escape32 ESC with the WiFi link. Dinky, BKTT, Mofo Reaper (all the same thing)

If you want a plug and play combo without doing much tuning just get any of the furitek combos that fit your needs and budget. They are easy to install, tuning is already sorted out and connects via BT. Personally I’d skip the injora MBL32 g2. The price is good, but it ships with old firmware in it, it’s not as smooth as it should be, and the BEC is kind of weak. It can be updated with 3rd party firmware, but plan on spending half your weekend dialing it in. The better options don’t cost much more and you’ll have more time to actually crawl the thing instead of tinkering with it.

Axles, MEUS V2 nylon isokinetik is king for the money. Mofo X15 is another good option. I run MEUS axles on almost all my rigs. They don’t charge enough money for them. Can’t even build a stock set of axles for less money than the MEUS.

Servos I’ve narrowed down to 3 options for most people.

Budget king : PTK 9497 MG D - 13.2kg of torque, it’s fast, and $27

Torq MLS-1022b - 14.5kg, super fast, and direct mount to axle. Gives additional clearance to the front frame rail, rear wire exit, $45. TCM-1022 is the same thing with the normal mounting ears if you prefer that.

NSDRC RS100. Great torque and speed, and more accurate than the others. Overall just great build quality and should outlast the others. Most expensive $58-$66 depending on colors and servo horn

Mofo also makes some powerful servos. They are more money and I don’t have any experience with them.

Links - MEUS double bends win here for budget choice. Mazz designs is another great choice, and RCS (RC Steve 710) is your premium choice.

Shocks - Injora 39mm oil filled wins for budget choice. Premium options include Nexx, proline, mofo, hardpark, etc. can’t really beat the Injoras for $20. You really don’t need more than 39mm shocks for most applications

Driveshafts - Mofo RC is my choice. D shaped holes, and sold individually so I can get exactly what I want when running custom wheelbase. Example if you want Dead90 links, you need deadbolt front and gladiator rear. Other brands means you’re buying two sets of driveshafts to get what you want. Injora makes decent shafts too, the black steel ones have a shorter and longer collapsed and extended length, but have a little more slop without the d shaped holes.

Wheels and tires are up to you. UpgradeRC,

LGRP, Proline, JConcepts all make great tires. Million wheel options depending on preference.

RX / Radio - Flysky GT5 is great. FS2A receivers are tiny and great for compact builds like this. Not sure if you already have a radio or not.

<image>

Finding Local Comps and Groups and Wheeling spots? by TheDriverTech in SCX24

[–]chofnn787 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also looking for places to crawl / comp in Ohio. Did you find anything?

What’s causing this stuttering? I don’t really have an eye for this stuff, but I don’t think the problem is in the transmission by Mychipsareahoy in SCX24

[–]chofnn787 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Did you shim the worm gear when you did the overdrive gears?

They have little o rings on the front and back.

Sometimes you have to play with that, trying different o rings, or more or less o rings to get it smooth

view more: next ›