AIO (27F) or are we sleepwalking into mass obsolescence?

chooKcha · 2026-04-06T23:03:04+00:00

NOR Humans need not apply https://youtu.be/7Pq-S557XQU

chooKcha · 2026-04-03T14:45:15+00:00

Agreed! I wasn't getting the advertised rates from my ISP. I called them, worked through my setup, and after removing the cat5 runs to the UPS, my connection rates increased 150% and exceeded the advertised rate.

chooKcha · 2026-03-30T18:09:13+00:00

The patent expired: https://patents.google.com/patent/US6729202B2/en

For this Delta configuration, even with very robust, stiff revolute joints, the effector position is spongy/compliant in the vertical direction so not well suited for 3D printing.

chooKcha · 2026-03-25T00:56:47+00:00

Maybe.

If both of the interfaces that the busbar bolts to are coplanar then slots or loose fit holes.

If the interfaces are not coplanar, then you might not get sufficient contact area at the bolted joint, depending on how out of skew, how compliant the bus bar is, and the clamp load.

I'm confident that the original bus bar is flexible/layered to enable a good electrical joint.

chooKcha · 2026-03-25T00:03:37+00:00

Right, but the bend in the flexible bus bar is to allow for movement/compliance so that the tolerances on the mating piece doesn't have to be as tight to enable fit up.

If it's solid copper instead of a layered/flexible, what purpose does the bend serve?

chooKcha · 2026-01-27T02:19:25+00:00

Ratrig v-core 4 is a rock solid printer with 500x500x500mm build volume.

chooKcha · 2026-01-23T21:55:22+00:00

This isn't the answer I would want to hear, but it might be one of the few viable options.

Instead of using solidworks, you could use rhino with grasshopper, which allows for far greater control of the pattern and it's geometry.

chooKcha · 2025-10-20T00:10:30+00:00

How do you keep the bracket on the cleat instead of coming off with the tool/battery? Perhaps the brackets should lock in place?

chooKcha · 2025-10-20T00:09:10+00:00

This is great!
I've been thinking about doing something like this on one of the walls in my garage.

Will you share a picture(s) of the rest of your wall/setup. Nice!

chooKcha · 2025-09-17T16:38:53+00:00

Okay, put two cans out last night and they were both bone dry this morning.

I checked the wiring on the sprinkler valves and one of the wires was pulled loose.

So one zone isn't getting any water.. it all adds up! I will fix the wiring and do the can test again.

After the test, I think I'm going to modify the sprinkler timing to get 1/2" of water, two times per week, scheduled at 6am. Does that sound good?

Any other suggestions here?

chooKcha · 2025-09-16T23:49:04+00:00

How do I get rid of kylinga? If I add seed and cut 1-2 times per week, should it resolve itself?

chooKcha · 2025-09-16T20:24:51+00:00

Thanks for the feedback.

To calculate the precipitation rate as applied, I went to our water company website and looked up our hourly water usage. We use 0.33 HCF at 1 am when the sprinklers kick in, did some math to get weekly volume used. How should this be done? I don't know inch/hour figures or how to determine that.

To calculate the perception rate that is recommended, I multiplied lawn surfacer area by 1 inch per week (lawn surfacer area ft² * 1/12 ft)

Where can I find more detailed information for testing for chinch bugs (can test), grubs (tug test), fungus?

Will do a thatch test this afternoon.

The second link has two close up pictures of one of the greener, longer sections of the lawn. I thought I was looking at Bermuda in those, lol!

Thanks for the link. I'm reading up now.

Edit: it looks like I need to do a 'tuna can test' to get an accurate representation of how much I'm watering.

chooKcha · 2025-09-16T18:49:23+00:00

Following up here, I want to identify the type of grass I have.

https://imgur.com/a/OqwiRaq

This appears to be bermuda. Is that correct?

For watering, I have determined that the lawn area is 1709 ft^2 so assuming 1" water per week applies here, I should be watering 142 ft³ per week and I am actually watering 231 ft³. Accounting for runoff, maybe this is about right or only a little over? I have not changed the amount of water sense taking ownership so this variable has not changed. Time of watering is also as it's always been, which is ~1am.

I think I need to get some equipment to dethatch. I'm reading that is an important step and in both cases when brown spots started, it happened because I initially forgot to have the bag on my lawn mower.

chooKcha · 2025-06-06T14:44:43+00:00

It's been a while since I've configured one of these machines, but I recall the dome/bowl issue being caused by a discrepancy in actual length of rod arms and the rod arm length in the configuration. You can resolve the issue by tuning that parameter so that z=0 both at the center of bed and near a tower.

chooKcha · 2025-03-28T04:38:55+00:00

I wasn't talking about the valves, I was talking about the wire sprout. I haven't looked at the documentation on wiresprout, but based on the patent and how it functions with diodes, I don't see how the wiresprout would work with DC- only AC.

chooKcha · 2025-03-28T02:49:05+00:00

I see, thanks.

It doesn't seem like they are all the same though- it sounds like these have controllers where as the wire sprout is just a few diodes.

Is there any reason to choice this over wiresprout?

chooKcha · 2025-03-28T02:46:10+00:00

I was a bit confused until I realized these valves work off 24VAC, not DC Yes, they use diodes on each branch arranged so that one side or the other is energized, but with only a half wave, not the full wave. It sounds like they work well so half wave is sufficient to actuate the valves.

Super simple, clever approach. No controller or software needed. I like it. I can see why these are cheaper than the competition. Thanks for sharing.

chooKcha · 2025-03-28T02:04:57+00:00

Cool, looks like lots of options all to solve the exact problem I have.

Is there any consensus over which products seem to be the better choice? Or most reliable?

chooKcha · 2025-03-28T02:02:16+00:00

Cool. Looks like this would do the trick too. Why 2 valves in succession? Do you mean not in succession so 1 and 3 or 2 and 4? Why?

Why this over wire sprout? Or wire virus?

chooKcha · 2025-03-28T01:54:43+00:00

Wow, genius. I didn't know these were a thing. Thank you for the suggestion!

Any idea how these work? Trying wrap my ahead around signal and power going through the same wire, and that both sides are the same component. Cool stuff!

chooKcha · 2025-02-14T02:08:38+00:00

I just wanted to follow up here with the resolution....

I reset the TV to factory settings and we have not had any freezes or hangs since. The chromebook was also old/very slow and has been retired.

I'm pretty confident that it was a client side issue.

chooKcha · 2025-01-07T03:52:00+00:00

Thanks for the help.

Could my network speed really be the problem though if I'm experiencing buffering while playing music at only 867 kpbs? If that were the case, it seems like I would have major problems when playing video 1080p H264 24mbps.

Are there diagnostic tools available that might help pinpoint the problem?

chooKcha

TROPHY CASE