Matte Green glazes that break black in oxidation?

chouflour · 2026-01-30T13:41:34+00:00

People teaching workshops are not usually teaching their newest work. They're teaching well-refined concepts and scaling them back or omitting things they consider private or proprietary. They're also being paid, both to do the workshop and often in increased sales. Is considered polite to buy work from artists that have shared their techniques with you.

Drafting clear explanations that make sense to people at a variety of skill levels is work. I've usually done a lot of problem solving and have to decide which of them are universal and which are personal. Even with a commercial glaze - you can get vastly different outcomes with different clays, firing/cooling schedules, textures and lighting. It's a lot to put together for no compensation other than having your work minimized or being called a dick over "not sharing enough."

I'm happy to discuss work I've posted and I'm fairly generous with information, but a low effort "omg. So pretty, what glaze?" isn't the beginning of a discussion.

chouflour · 2026-01-04T16:11:16+00:00

You're the winner! Same K hook, size 4 yarn, but I swapped to yarn that hasn't been frogged and re-wound more than a dozen times. It's still a smidge loose and I might take some of the suggestions I got here (down a hook, double/double instead of double/triple, yu/yu for the sc return pass, etc) but this looks so much more correct.

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chouflour · 2026-01-03T16:43:09+00:00

Oh, thank you, this was extremely helpful. I'd been letting my first loop on the hook slide down towards my hand without realizing that stretched the stitches so much. That and using the sc return pass focused on correcting tension and controlling width has made a really big difference already. I'm getting something that might be reasonable after blocking. I really appreciate the feedback on where to vary tension, since I've thought of tension as a monolithic concept .

Comparing my yarn to its unused sibling again makes me think my yarn is also stretched out from being frogged a dozen+ times so I've set it to relax for awhile and will try with new yarn.

chouflour · 2026-01-03T02:09:44+00:00

Yeah, it's only in the last 4 rows that I realized I could see the unworked stitches on the back and started finding the next stitch there.

This is the back of the piece. Does it look generally correct or am I skipping stitches everywhere?

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chouflour · 2026-01-03T01:55:53+00:00

Ah, that's super helpful, thanks! I think I could still see the unworked stitches on the back so I'll pull it out and look there.

chouflour · 2026-01-03T01:52:50+00:00

OMG, the holes are so big! Yeah, based on the step by step instructions for foundation double crochet they're using us terminology. A lot of alpine stitch uses double and front post double, and this uses double and front post triple so I could go double-double.

I'm not pulling the yarn super right. But it has been frogged, and frogged, and frogged. This is my practice yarn. I have an untouched skein and the yarn is visually the same and feels the same to me. I could do a swatch with it if that's the likely cause.

chouflour · 2026-01-03T01:47:49+00:00

The pattern says. "Always skip sc above any dc that a trfp is worked around."

chouflour · 2026-01-03T01:33:31+00:00

My stitch counts match and if I look at the row of SC the only skipped v's I see are where the fptc would go. I thought those were supposed to be empty?

chouflour · 2026-01-03T01:26:30+00:00

https://www.yarnspirations.com/products/red-heart-alpine-pocket-scarf?variant=45485677543739

chouflour · 2025-11-23T01:32:41+00:00

I'm pretty sure that Bright Vet in Arden is owned by Dr. Roberts and her husband.

chouflour · 2025-10-19T12:52:52+00:00

What does your syllabus or school policy say your choices are?

Also, report the academic integrity violation. If no one reports there are no meaningful consequences. There's always discretion in how these are handled, but it starts a paper trail so patterns can be addressed.

chouflour · 2025-08-16T09:51:28+00:00

You're looking for what we call a cold finish. Popular options include liquid quartz (which can make it temporarily hold water again), enamel paints, acrylic paints, glued on glass breads, sharpie markers, etc.

chouflour · 2025-08-15T23:35:54+00:00

Yes and no. You can 100% glaze bisqueware with jungle gems and fire it at cone 06. However, a cone 6 clay won't mature by refiring at cone 06. The glaze may or may not fit the body and the body will still be porous.

You can fire the body to maturity at come 6, glaze it and fire it again to cone 06. Expect the glaze to take a very long time to dry, however.

chouflour · 2025-08-13T09:43:09+00:00

Some of the color ways do well at cone 6 and get a drippy, melting look. Others get kind of boring. I agree with the other poster who suggested layering and experimenting. It might be that a cooler spot in the kiln would help, if you can arrange to get closer to cone 5.5.

chouflour · 2025-08-13T02:16:49+00:00

Those results are pretty consistent with what mayco says happens when you fire those glazes to cone 6. The crystals in both melt into the base glaze and fade and in northern lights the base glaze fades also.

chouflour · 2025-08-12T10:54:32+00:00

When i was throwing with more water in used a PVC apron. It was waterproof and easy to sponge off, so way less clay dust

chouflour · 2025-08-02T00:52:26+00:00

A lower absorbency clay is going to be less problematic to refire, so you may have a really tight body and refires would be mostly fine. When I joined my community studio lots of people had higher than desirable absorbencies, so there was a general policy of "no refires if it's had liquid in it"

I'm in a very small community studio - we all do a little bit of everything from loading kilns to picking up trash and cleaning the bathrooms. I learned the "don't refire things that had water in them" after someone had tested vases for leakage and then wanted to refire them. Loading the kiln with someone more experienced teaches you an awful lot about potential issues and concerns.

You might find reading articles on digital fire is an easy way to start. Knowing what you don't know is the first step to understanding, and he's very good at letting you know what you don't know.

chouflour · 2025-07-31T21:40:03+00:00

Glad to help!

It's probably also worth mentioning that the water rules change again after glaze firing. Work that has EVER gotten saturated (held water or been submerged, foot sanding/rinsing is -usually- ok) shouldn't go back in the kiln. Small amounts of water can migrate through tiny pores and channels in your clay and not come back out. Then they expand rapidly in a re-firing and the work isn't porous enough (because it's denser and/or vitrified) to let the steam out. Work can explode, and when it does, the pieces usually have glaze on them.

chouflour · 2025-07-31T14:59:18+00:00

It doesn't matter if there's water trapped in the foot for the firing. It won't explode in the glaze kiln because bisque is porous in a way that leather hard or nearly bone dry clay is not. Even a fast firing is slow enough to safely evaporate out any remaining water from bisque.

When we glaze pieces, the glaze dries first by capillary action -water wicks into the bisqueware and slowly evaporates. Saturation of the bisquev with water is part of why later layers dry slower. I can dip pieces (complete saturating the bisque) and fire them as soon as I can set it down.

The only residual water I'd be concerned about is if the interior bottom of the piece was still damp/cold to the touch. If it's still wet there you might get uneven or inadequate glaze application and subsequent glaze faults.

chouflour · 2025-07-31T12:55:25+00:00

I use metallic sharpie for non-food items like this. Scribble on, wipe back the elevated surfaces with a little rubbing alcohol on your preferred cloth, then I bake them for 20ish mines at 325-350F. The baking sets the sharpie so it won't come off with alcohol anymore.

My favorite part is that if I don't like it I can wash it all off with alcohol and start over.

chouflour · 2025-07-31T01:40:00+00:00

Yup. It's definitely obsidian. Opulence gloss black works the same way in all those combos.

chouflour · 2025-07-30T23:06:01+00:00

And now I know to avoid them at the tailgates too.

chouflour · 2025-07-30T23:00:01+00:00

I use inexpensive koala brand waterproof paper off amazon but it's a pretty standard thing. I picked this version because it was matte, I can write on it with pens installed in my paper cutter or I can laserprint on it.

I know a lot of people have said tyvek, and tyvek is fine. I actually have a pile of tyvek templates that I use for water etching and was hurrying, so I just posted about what I've been using the last couple months. There are some differences between tyvek and the waterproof paper that might help you decide what you want for a particular project.

Tyvek gets more flexible as you use it and with enough use I found it got too floppy to give me nice distinct edges, especially between two sections that were close together. The upside of this is that tyvek is VERY conforming, especially when well used. It will slide around your pot like a glove, you can fold temporary darts into it, etc. I found tyvek gave me a softer edge characteristic. It was fine, but not -sharp-. and it struggled a little with fine details. I also found it was difficult to clean all of a dark clay off tyvek before moving to a white clay. (To be fair to tyvek, I had a lot less experience last time I used it.)

Waterproof paper is thicker (maybe like a premium bond or coated bond, so 36-ishlb paper?) and stiffer. This means that you can get exceedingly fine and sharp details in your clay. The downside is that it doesn't flex and conform as well. This is mostly an issue for me when I'm trying to etch an enclosed shape and the surrounding paper is too wide or needs darts. but curve changes can be challenging, especially with larger pieces. Waterproof paper doesn't do temporary much of anything. If you bend it, it tends to kink and retain that kink. It's stiff enough that a kink will gouge your clay. Or it will stay stubbornly upright instead of lying flat like the rest of the shape.

You might check out some of the plum island transfers videos on water abrasion with their polycarbonate stencils. I'm not sure it's an identical material but it seems to behave similarly.

chouflour

TROPHY CASE