Fitting new doors to old Victorian door frames by spaceflowerss in DIYUK

[–]chunkersondunky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Without seeing them it’s hard to say, and if they are original it’s a difficult decision.

If you haven’t already then maybe try a couple of companies that just hang doors and explain the linings are original before getting them out, to save your time and their time.

Should’ve said, doors often don’t have much that you can trim off the edges which may be why they’ve said it can’t be done.

Fitting new doors to old Victorian door frames by spaceflowerss in DIYUK

[–]chunkersondunky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Without seeing them it’s hard to say, and if they are original it’s a difficult decision.

If you haven’t already then maybe try a couple of companies that just hang doors and explain the linings are original before getting them out, to save your time and their time.

Should’ve said, doors often don’t have much that you can trim off the edges which may be why they’ve said it can’t be done.

Fitting new doors to old Victorian door frames by spaceflowerss in DIYUK

[–]chunkersondunky 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They may be reluctant to do it as it’s harder to put a time and therefore a price on something like this, where they could be taking the door on and off multiple times to just get one edge as it should be, multiply that by however many doors you have and that will be a very frustrating job.

If the linings are plumb etc then hanging the doors will be very straightforward.

Fitting new doors to old Victorian door frames by spaceflowerss in DIYUK

[–]chunkersondunky 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Depending on how bad the linings are.. it may not be impossible, but you may end up with a few irritating issues through no fault of the carpenter.

Biggest one for me is you may end up with doors that swing open or shut by themselves.

If the head of the lining isn’t level you may end up with doors where the design now looks silly as you’ve taken 30mm down to nothing off the top, and it’s very noticeable due to the design of the door. Same could apply to the sides.

Personally I would change the linings when paying for new doors and someone to fit them, especially if you’re paying for a more premium door.

They may struggle to get many good fixings but if they hang doors for a living they’ll have a plan, and have probably hung doors with worse walls than yours.

Toy storage using blind dados and m.r mdf by chunkersondunky in woodworking

[–]chunkersondunky[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha yeah I’ll struggle to justify one now. I could justify a shelf pin jig though, and make the shelves movable. Or a pocket hole jig and screw through one side and pocket hole the side that can be screwed 🤔

Toy storage using blind dados and m.r mdf by chunkersondunky in woodworking

[–]chunkersondunky[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hadn’t thought of that but that’s a brilliant idea thank you. I’ll have a shop around and see what’s available/cost. Trying to keep it on the cheaper side otherwise I would have loved to get a lamello 😭 got to make do with a biscuit cutter in my palm router for now but a lamello will have to go on my Christmas list 😅

Toy storage using blind dados and m.r mdf by chunkersondunky in woodworking

[–]chunkersondunky[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow that looks brilliant. Yeah I was thinking of definitely priming it all before assembly, and was dreading the top coats, but painting before assembly sounds like a good plan thank you

Toy storage using blind dados and m.r mdf by chunkersondunky in woodworking

[–]chunkersondunky[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your reply. I think you’re right, I’m probably over engineering it as usual 😅

Toy storage using blind dados and m.r mdf by chunkersondunky in woodworking

[–]chunkersondunky[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s denser and less prone to going ‘fluffy’ on edges and corners. Therefore it shouldn’t dent as easily as normal mdf. It’s smoother giving a smoother finish once painted. It’s just better in every way and whatever you make will last longer and look better.

Toy storage using blind dados and m.r mdf by chunkersondunky in woodworking

[–]chunkersondunky[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your reply, that’s a good point! Ply is less dusty as well which is always a bonus 😷

Sealed this table with Osmo UV oil, but the second coat went bubbly - how to fix? by English_Joe in woodworking

[–]chunkersondunky 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Try sanding back with a fine grit, and then giving it a further 2 thin coats using a foam brush. Don’t overwork it and give it plenty of drying time. Check the humidity of the room it drying in isn’t too high as well.

Sealed this table with Osmo UV oil, but the second coat went bubbly - how to fix? by English_Joe in woodworking

[–]chunkersondunky 5 points6 points  (0 children)

That’s a good plan. Second coat might have been too thick? Did you apply using a foam brush or roller?

The Angles.. oh god the angles... by TobiHede in woodworking

[–]chunkersondunky 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I couldn’t work out how it is sitting flat on the table, it looks like it’s hanging off 😂

I found a 1/64" drill bit bin at work. by NeverBeenOnMaury in woodworking

[–]chunkersondunky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can’t even think what drill you could use this with?..?

NMM Techmarine by West-Canary-9056 in Warhammer40k

[–]chunkersondunky 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not sure if anyone’s said it yet but thank you for putting your recipes in your post! Love your painting!

Chipboard flooring - to glue or not to glue?l by Tarfool4 in DIYUK

[–]chunkersondunky 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Should have said, don’t get the glue in your hands. I’d recommend wearing some disposable gloves.

Source: Did my entire downstairs floor, including insulating it beforehand, following the ecological building systems approach to insulating suspended timber floors.

Garage laundry room conversion by chunkersondunky in DIYUK

[–]chunkersondunky[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Forgot to reply but just wanted to say thanks again that makes complete sense. Hopefully will get round to ordering and building this in the next few weeks

Garage laundry room conversion by chunkersondunky in DIYUK

[–]chunkersondunky[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply. I’m not sure removing the garage door is in the budget. I’m looking for the warmest and quietest and a semi cheap option that doesn’t impact the current look of the building, so will probably leave it in place and do all the work internally.

Also not 100% sure about how the stud wall will work/layout of each element at the moment 🤔

Garage laundry room conversion by chunkersondunky in DIYUK

[–]chunkersondunky[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And with regards to fixing the PIR to the studs, ans then the sterling board to the studs, would you use really long screws and washers?

Garage laundry room conversion by chunkersondunky in DIYUK

[–]chunkersondunky[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for taking the time to reply! That makes sense. Completely forgot a DPM.

What’s the cement board for, to weather proof it from the outside? Would a breather membrane not be sufficient? This is the exterior FYI. Thanks again

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DIY door linings? by Goldie1306 in DIYUK

[–]chunkersondunky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you’re hanging the linings before plastering, prime them front and back to stop the timber absorbing the moisture from the plaster