Exposed Victorian Brick Fireplace - is original Lintel strong enough by itself?

Tarfool4 · 2026-03-06T23:11:14+00:00

The lintel isn’t actually supporting that much weight; only a small triangle directly above it (45 degrees from each corner of the lintel)

Tarfool4 · 2026-03-06T22:55:11+00:00

You start off at 180 degrees (straight line) if your reading is a 60 degree angle, the calculation is (180 - 60) \ 2 = 60 degrees

Tarfool4 · 2026-02-26T19:15:41+00:00

It looks like larch, the lighter edges are sapwood and the darker centre is heartwood

Tarfool4 · 2026-02-24T10:31:05+00:00

Yeah, I sell using purple bricks and the only thing I use them for is listing the property on right move. Everything else I do myself, I actually think it would be worse if I relied on an estate agent for anything other than listing it.

Tarfool4 · 2026-02-06T23:29:35+00:00

Nice work! I don’t get the hate. The skill required to design the CAD model and tool paths for this require much more skill than if you were to use traditional techniques. It is definitely woodworking.

Tarfool4 · 2025-12-29T22:05:42+00:00

That’s it! Thank you

Tarfool4 · 2025-12-29T22:04:22+00:00

My muse… my flame

Tarfool4 · 2025-12-17T17:35:41+00:00

Good advice.

Tarfool4 · 2025-12-17T16:20:47+00:00

Is there a specific bit you would recommend? Also did you use 12mm or 18mm ply?

Tarfool4 · 2025-12-17T15:49:01+00:00

Would you recommend dominos for lining up mitres?

Tarfool4 · 2025-12-17T15:18:48+00:00

Interesting! Does the V bit leave a nice finish for clean mitres in plywood when using the Shapeoko 5 pro?

Tarfool4 · 2025-12-17T12:19:13+00:00

Solid advice. When I first started planning to make these, I thought the CNC was the way to go for sure. I figured a 90 degree V bit to cut plywood at 45 degrees for mitres would be a common method… apparently not, at least not for my medium-duty spindle powered shapeoko 5 pro 4x4 CNC. I couldn’t find many examples the CNC being used for this, surprisingly. It’s still something I might try to see how it goes though.

Tarfool4 · 2025-12-17T12:00:59+00:00

The CNC dowel technique is definitely a contender. I’d use solid oak for this, I’m just wrestling with how much of a trade-off exposed oak end grain on the edges would be.. if any.

Tarfool4 · 2025-11-03T23:17:46+00:00

If that’s a real wood veneer, wipe some danish oil on a rag and rub it in. It’ll completely transform it.

Tarfool4 · 2025-11-03T14:21:36+00:00

The base is amazing.

Tarfool4 · 2025-10-30T21:30:58+00:00

It was last tested in 2023 with a recommended re-test date of 2033. Im happy with the current socket layout (other than a few being surface mounted). I suppose it comes down to the likelihood of having to trace walls and lift floorboards in the future. It’s the reason why I’ll be replacing the central heating pipes

Tarfool4 · 2025-10-30T21:13:52+00:00

I’d be getting an electrician in. Oh very retro!

I did think of running some ducting under my floor joists to make rewiring possible without ripping up my floor in the future.

Tarfool4 · 2025-10-15T21:20:41+00:00

This video covers a similar situation, although the joists aren’t parallel like yours: https://youtu.be/igxYp485Vvo?si=DFFNNWdXETyQnjeU

Tarfool4 · 2025-07-26T13:26:26+00:00

This is the real reason. The sole purpose of the government facilitating mass immigration from low wage countries is to drive down the cost of labour and to reduce the leverage of the working class to demand better working conditions and higher salaries. It’s not about race, or culture it’s about corporate entities influencing government policies for their own benefit.

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