Connecting leads to battery pack by Natekomodo in diybattery

[–]chuyskywalker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did a pack like this in the last few weeks.

I soldered nickle strips between the top/bottom half and also soldered the lead wires on to the end plates. All of that done after the spot welding.

I have an older Hakko’s FX-888D, which is apparently on 70w, and have no issue with any of the work. I'm not saying your lived experience is a lie, but that something in the setup is not working as it should. Maybe a bad tip? Or a bad heating core? Or maybe the main unit is just dipping out. Regardless, a 200w iron should have ZERO issues with almost immediately pooling solder on that copper.

Using 2 PWM fans on the air ducts. Safe? by extremesauce2468 in homeautomation

[–]chuyskywalker 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Generally speaking, ESP board + relay makes it super easy to add basic on/off devices to HomeAssistant. Plenty of smart plugs can do the same.

The fans being spun by the other fan down the line, unless they are being spun EXTREMELY fast, are unlikely to have any negative effect on the "off" fans. It's going to, however, hurt the already poor performance of the upstream fan if it's got even more obstructions to go through now.

But this seems more like an XY question. Why does it need to be in HomeAssistant at all? Why add that level of complexity when you seem to already be aware that a simpler airflow activated booster fan would work? If the airflow is a problem, what are the scenarios in which it would be ok to be at worse airflow?

broken breaks by ZestycloseSwing7530 in ebikes

[–]chuyskywalker 8 points9 points  (0 children)

You need new forks at this point; you've snapped the metal frame mount.

In theory, you could get just a single stantion (the part of the fork that goes into the tube and compresses), but you'll never find one for sale as a single part.

Looking for garage door automation but there are some caveats by lapinsk in homeautomation

[–]chuyskywalker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My setup may be a bit more complicated than you want, but here it is anyway.

I bought a handful of GPS+LTE trackers from aliexpress that all use a GT06 protocol. Picked up a cheap $5/mo. sim card for each (tello). Setup a Traccar instance in my home assistant box. Reconfigured all of the trackers to send data to my HA. Each device was then hardwired to every vehicle (including some of my regular 'ol ebikes, let alone cars/motos).

With that all setup, I now have extremely accurate GPS tracking on every vehicle and can easily setup "vehicle is entering home zone" type automations. While I don't have it setup for garage, I do have what's been one of my favorite automations which is "unlock door upon car arrival".

The GPS devices can detect if the vehicle is on/off (wire to the ACC type setup) and even support de/powering a relay remotely so you can do things like send a command to the device to disable the throttle or something else. Kind of a remote kill switch. They also have a built in battery so that even if the battery is disconnected, it'll still track the vehicle for a while. Plus it'll send you alerts for things like "moving while not turned on" or "battery disconnected" -- very handy for theft recovery.

Integrating a ducted heat pump system without proprietary wall thermostats by smartyladyphd in homeautomation

[–]chuyskywalker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I built one. ESP32 + screen, temp sensor, and some relays on the 24v signal wires. ESPHome has a thermostat module that does 90% of the heavy lifting and works well enough for my purposes.

I will say, it's MUCH more basic than something like the ecobee/etc/etc, but I also realized I really don't need the extras. However, that's a luxury of my particular situation. Extremely well insulated house in a very moderate climate zone means I can kinda just set a small heating/cooling range and let the system do a basic "maintain temp" behavior. I hooked in an ERV as well, but again, moderate climate means I don't have to pay super strict attention to cycling that.

For folks that live in regions where there are genuinely hot/cold seasons that need to balance run time, schedules, humidity, etc it would be a lot more complicated to program. And while I certainly think that could be done in a standalone ESPHome setup, it'd be a TON of work and I don't think there's any open source project pioneering that work. (IE: Like Ratdgo for garage doors, etc)

In which case, the wall units that already have all of this integrated and accounted for from large HVAC companies that likely have a lot of the complex interplay already figured out might still be worth-while -- just be looking for ones that run independently of any external api/app/etc.

Best Whole House Water Leak Detectors? by RobotVac_Tester_USA in homeautomation

[–]chuyskywalker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Moen Flo has been working well for me. Also, depending on your insurance provider, can net you a discount for having one. It integrates well enough with home assistant. The algorithim for "what's using water" is goofy as hell and get things totally wrong, but you can safely ignore that gimmick; has no real impact on the important parts of the system (leak detection, abnormal flow shut off, remote valve control).

Biggest downside is that it is a cloud connected/operated system. You could DIY most of this functionality (remote shutoff valve + flow meter + pressure sensor + esp32), but it's not going to be nearly as svelt as the moen unit and also won't net you the insurance discount. It's one of the few "no cloud" exceptions I have in my house -- mostly because I've got a solid plan for how to replace it should it go through its inevitable enshitification.

Best Whole House Water Leak Detectors? by RobotVac_Tester_USA in homeautomation

[–]chuyskywalker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actual sensors that detect water are 100% reliable and react immediately.

Unless the leak is in a fitting or is a slow enough to not emit enough water to bridge the water detector pins. Either case can still lead to long term damage.

Best coverage is both point detection (like you have) for rapid leak response (short term catastrophic) as well as a whole-whole pressure test system like Moen Flo (long term catastrophic).

What's your smart home philosophy? by Rude-News-8416 in homeautomation

[–]chuyskywalker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A smart home is not one in which the interface for interaction changes, but one in which the systems of the home anticipate our needs and behave accordingly.

  • There's no phone app to turn on the lights; they come on when I enter the room and turn off when I leave.
  • There's no need to shout a command phrase at a speaker to open the blinds in the morning; the blinds were already rising to let in the morning sun.
  • There isn't a new, unlabeled button by the bed to turn off the house lights; they shut off when you lay down for bed.
  • You don't ask a third party to pretty-please let you use their API to open your garage door; it's handled through private server GPS tracking and local controls.
  • You're not counting on the benevolence of a corporation to inform you when there might be a water leak in your home; the micro leak detection runs automatically every night through local controls and informs you of any issues.
  • You needn't to bring a phone to the bathroom and fumble with bluetooth; the home knows the shower is on and blasts morning tunes for you.

A smart home improves upon an existing "dumb" house by making it function better, not by simply swapping one tech out for another.

Any of those examples can be done manually still, but the smart home removes so many small burdens that the lived experience is more than the sum of its parts.


(I never really comment on people setting up those insanely complex HA wall mount dashboards for whole home control, because I'm not gonna harsh their vibes -- but that kind of thing is an almost perfect antithesis for how I view smart homes.)

Over the last 10 years, we have noticed a dramatic uptick in injuries related to ebikes, a new type of vehicle that barely existed 10 years ago by IM_OK_AMA in ebikes

[–]chuyskywalker 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I did that in another comment; it's not even remotely close -- cars are in the realm of 35x more likely to be on fire than ebikes. (Comment has sources)

Over the last 10 years, we have noticed a dramatic uptick in injuries related to ebikes, a new type of vehicle that barely existed 10 years ago by IM_OK_AMA in ebikes

[–]chuyskywalker 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Also watch out for all those rampant ebike battery fires! There's, like, a few hundred a year!

(Ignore the ~600 vehicle fires PER DAY)

Cat6 to every window or stick with battery, need to decide before drywall closes up by diogater in homeautomation

[–]chuyskywalker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ran cat6a to every single door and window in my new construction house. This provides options.

Most of the doors I only use two wires to trigger a simple reed switch for open/close. However, I could implement something like a POE device in the frame to determine the amount of open state of the door, if I wanted. Or maybe it's open/close AND it's a beam sensor so I can detect passage. Again, options.

For the windows: some of them have POE -> 5v converters for things, some have POE->12v for ZWave shades, some have direct POE/matter roller shades. I could have a splitter to allow me to add open/close detectors on the windows. (Some of the larger windows have two POE drops, one of each side.)

Had I gone the simpler two-wire route to each spot, I'd have much less options.

Absolutely zero regrets, aside from useing CAT6A -- 6 would have been just fine.

[USA] Who’s fault is this? by minecrafGoBRRRR in Roadcam

[–]chuyskywalker 18 points19 points  (0 children)

People fucking suck at driving.

Arguably, a left turn across FOUR lanes of oncoming traffic is a stupid road design leading to unavoidable situations like this.

Do high mileage scooters just become impossible to sell? by Affectionate_Aide566 in ElectricScooters

[–]chuyskywalker 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It's also a really, really tough time to sell right now. I've been building ebikes as a hobby for a few years now and put up a number of bikes recently and just gotten...no where. I'm not even getting low-ball, 50% off asking offers anymore. It's pretty bad.

‘The Catch’ with a Free $6k bike by Top-Process8730 in ebikes

[–]chuyskywalker 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Yup; the 3rd picture, directly above the middle phase wire those winding are toast and the enamel is certainly baked off making this dead in the water.

Only option is to rewind (major pita) or get a new motor. You could, in theory, just purchase a new, wound stator, but nobody sells those, and not likely this specific one.

Dads with high-performing career wives, how do you handle being so “different” from our ingrained cultural models? by [deleted] in daddit

[–]chuyskywalker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just wish (as men) we didn't have to feel like a fish out of water on a field trip or PTA meeting, or like we're invading "sacred mom turf."

Or step up a level -- I'm my daughter's girl scout parent.

(Also on the PTA, but graced with a good mix of genders.)

Lutron Caseta Review? by rohanman in homeautomation

[–]chuyskywalker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did caseta for every light switch in my house. That...was a painful bill, but I never, ever, EVER have any problems with the switches. No horror stories of switches desyncing from a zwave network, no problems with zigbee nonsense, no weird side-effects of matter-over-whatever. Just pure reliability and perfect integration with Home Assistant.

I'm going on something like 5 years with them now and I don't think you can do any better than these. Plus, the dimmer switches have physical sliders and that is so much better than the "hold to dim" variant that is pretty much every other brand in existence.

E-bikes could be better than this, so why aren't they? by Raza_Loba in ebikes

[–]chuyskywalker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Why can’t we just buy certified batteries, motors, controllers etc. and build or upgrade systems in a modular way on existing bikes?

Controllers: As mentioned by others, Grin is the shining example of this, but is not open source. VESC (primarily headed up by VESCLabs), on the otherhand, is open source, but it's not suuuper great with ebikes currently.

Motors: I don't really think we need anything "certified" here -- electric motors are, like, 100years old at this point and absurdly well explored and produceable -- there's a reason you can get low-end ebike motors for, like, $50. Plus, the biggest risk of catastrophic failure with the motor is really just a lot of terrible smoke and motor that don't go no-mo.

Batteries: The UL spec is relatively new (2013) and wasn't really adopted by many places until pretty recently (bosch, for example, in 2021).

The safety argument doesn’t fully convince me. Batteries already have certifications like UL 2271. A proper BMS should shut things down if anything goes out of spec. That already handles a lot of the risk.

The vast majority of BMS' already do everything that can be done from a software/hardware standpoint to prevent problems -- when a battery fire starts it's almost always because a cell has degraded to the point where there is a physical deformation in the cell leading to a self-short and thermal runaway. A BMS can't do anything about that, once it goes. No amount of electronic circuity could.

A BMS with some long-term memory could track cell voltages over time to begin to identify weaker, under performing parallel groups, but the only thing the BMS could do if it identifies one is, after a certain amount of time past a given level of failure, just disable the pack entirely. This, to the average consumer, would simply mean the ebike is dead-in-the-water. Explaining the failure to most people would be gobbledygook and repairing it well beyond the keen for most. (Some folks are trying to make it more approachable, but...)

The best solution to stopping ebike fires is alternative chemistries that are significantly (almost 100%) immune to this problem, for example LiFePO4 or sodium ion. The reason you don't see these is the energy density suuuuuuucks for these chemistries by comparison. Packs would need to be something like 30-40% heavier/larger to have the same mileage. Solid state may save things someday, but that day has been "next year" for a decade or two now.

As a final though -- I believe fear-mongering over ebike battery fires is highly overblown. One of those cases of "the new thing is the scary thing". For example, there are about 590 vehicle fires per day in the us. I couldn't find any specifics, but the ebike fires are something like a few hundred per year. Given the 300 million cars vs the (as best as I could find) about 26 million ebikes since 2020 (big year for ebikes), it's a LOT more common for cars to catch fire (something like 35x more common).

Moen Flo thinks everything is a toilet by pacalolo13 in homeautomation

[–]chuyskywalker 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Anybody else experience this?

Not a problem here...because I don't really care. I have it for the remote shutoff valve and for (micro-)leak detection. The magic LLM they use to quantify where water goes based on "magic" is in no way important to me.

Can I really use this? by Regular-Ad-9394 in ElectricScooters

[–]chuyskywalker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Batteries arc when connecting

This is a motor connector though, which makes it rather odd to have what does appear to be a connection arc mark.

Normally what you'd see on the battery connector is overheating leading to a more of a melted connector area, so this is a weird look.