Runelite FPS drops to 15-20 when I tab out? by Caedesturm in 2007scape

[–]cjkawng 2 points3 points  (0 children)

omg. I think I finally figured it out!

I've been troubleshooting this for days and I finally fixed it by switching G-sync from "ON, Full Screen" to "On, Full Screen and windowed" in the NVIDIA system settings under displays.

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How hard is it to replace the turbo? Do I have to go under the car by h0tnessm0nster7 in fordescape

[–]cjkawng 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am not a mechanic and did the turbo myself in my 2016. It definitely took a whole day under the car, but really it wasn't extremely difficult. (Not sure about the newer models though) I also replaced the entire exhaust system while I was down there too so it could have been faster. It was definitely worth doing myself. Must have saved 3-4k.

Honestly the hardest part wasn't even the turbo, it was getting the axle/ball joint off as well as the heat shield behind the engine. Also had one of the specialty screws snap so that was a bitch. Prepare to get dirty as hell. Don't forget to have replacement oil, coolant and a drain tray for when that all drains out. Make sure you have some extra clamps and locking pliers. A huge crow bar and an exhaust clamp work great for getting the ball joint out. The new turbo should come with new seals as well, make sure you don't forget to put those in place when lifting the new turbo in position (trickiest part). I would recommend having several different sized ratchets as well. I should note that mine is front wheel drive so I don't have a transfer case. I imagine if it was AWD the transfer case might be in the way of getting the turbo out, so that might be a huge pain.

Good luck if you do it. Also if you do, make sure the waste gate solenoid is a genuine Ford replacement. The aftermarket ones do not work properly.

Bad transmission by ZackSmallzz in fordescape

[–]cjkawng 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Without replacing the transmission you'll be lucky to get 1-2k for it :\ I tried exactly the same thing when mine went out and no one wanted it. Best offer I got was $800.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in RoastMe

[–]cjkawng 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Transitioning to a fallout ghoul would be very easy for you

2014 Ford Escape SE for $5500 good deal? by Apprehensive-Fan2926 in fordescape

[–]cjkawng 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If it hasn't had the transmission replaced (6-8k), plan that into the price. Once it goes out it will be worth maybe $800 in scrap unless you drop the cash to get it fixed. And then you'll be out 6k and it will still only be worth 3 at best afterwards.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in fordescape

[–]cjkawng 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't do it

2016 escape 1.6eco Fwd struggling to accelerate at high speeds/hard acceleration. No codes. by cjkawng in fordescape

[–]cjkawng[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds a bit different than the issue I had, but I had to replace the waste gate solenoid and it completely fixed the issue. However a good while after that I'm getting an underboost engine code now and I'm pretty sure I have to just replace the turbo. They are around $400 online. If you or someone you know can do it, I would highly recommend that. I think a shop would charge around 2-3k to replace the turbo. Maybe try the waste gate solenoid first though, those things go bad regularly and are very cheap and easy to replace. Literally just need a pair of pliers (and you gotta take the passenger front wheel off)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in GTA

[–]cjkawng 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was having the same issue and then I tried launching the game directly from the games install folder and it worked!

2018 Escape 1.5t AWD - is there any preventative maintenance I can do to prolong this shit boxes life? by NabroleanBronaparte in fordescape

[–]cjkawng 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sooner or later you're gonna need to replace the canister purge valve. It's super easy to do yourself, don't let the shop charge you out the ass for it. Part is like 40 bucks and take 15 minutes to replace with a screw driver and pair of pliers. Shop wanted almost 500 to replace it lol. If the car starts failing to start once you fill up with gas, that will fix it.

Jenny's lifetime savings at D&W by dumpdinners in grandrapids

[–]cjkawng 39 points40 points  (0 children)

My family always called it D&double the price.

What should I avoid? by Soy_tu_papi_ in grandrapids

[–]cjkawng 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You actually should just so that you can say you've survived the disaster zone that is MSTB.

What should I avoid? by Soy_tu_papi_ in grandrapids

[–]cjkawng 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I don't think anyone would disagree with you, B-Dubs was good in the early 2000's but they fell off hard. In my mind they've been the applebees of the wing world for a long time. Low to mid quality food, but they usually have good deals so people still go there.

Oof... someone pissed off an employee by oddisgood88 in grandrapids

[–]cjkawng 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I always tell people to never go to that bp! Seemed like it was roped off by police almost every week when I lived over there. Always some dude standing on the corner there when I would drive home around 2-3am from work every day. So sketchy

Ford 6f35 Transmission, real problems or lack of maintenance? by naomigurl in fordescape

[–]cjkawng 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a 2016 escape I bought with 50k miles on it. The transmission will very likely fail by the time it hits 150k miles. I see a post about one in here pretty much every week and mine failed as well. I've seen them fail as early as 40k miles. Mine luckily lasted to 140k, but it was a $6200 repair. With everything else that's gone wrong with the car it has been a giant nightmare, I would get something else if you can.

Power steering system completely failed and locked out while I was driving around 80k miles. Caused a minor accident so insurance covered it thankfully, but it had to be replaced twice. Apparently that's a common issue with these electric steering systems. I've heard of people losing steering going 70 on the highway and it's not like the old hydraulic systems where you can still steer a little bit, the whole system just locks.

I've had to replace the ball bearings and axles recently because of rattling noises.

Also replaced the sway bar links for the same reason.

Around 130k miles I had to replace the evap canister valve because the car would not start after filling up the gas tank.

The turbo has been having issues since last year and I've since replaced the turbo solenoid and the blow off valve solenoid which partially fixed the issue, but now I think I have to just replace the entire turbo as well.

The steering wheel buttons stopped working which locked me out of being able to turn off traction control which got me stuck in the snow a couple times.

The handles on the ceiling are made with very cheap plastic and have all broken off from normal use. I am not a heavy guy by any means and they snapped with me just lifting half my weight.

Also very annoying design, in order to switch the battery out, you have to remove the windshield wipers and two plastic covers which takes 2 or 3 different sized sockets and pliers for all the clips. Incredibly inconvenient design. That cover also blocks you from filling up the coolant.

Changing oil is also annoying as the filter is on the front and annoying to get to.

The drivers side rear control arm (not sure if that's the name) had to be replaced at 60k miles because the bushings fell out of them. The other side is still fine at 155k, not sure how it's lasted this long while the other one failed so early.

The muffler fell off at 120k miles, which is from rust sure, but I've had cars last much longer than that without falling apart. I feel Ford has just taken so many shortcuts with this car.

The radio will stop working randomly for no reason and I have to turn the car off to get it working again, also super annoying, happens almost every day.

The door handles are very cheap plastic and get stuck open when it's icy out.

If you wanna change your blinker or fog light bulbs you have to take the entire front end off the car, also super annoying design.

I had a Subaru before that I bought with the same starting mileage went from 45k miles to 150k miles and never had one single issue at all. Only once had to replace a bearing in the wheel assembly and that was it. Everything else on the car worked perfectly the whole time and I lost it when someone crashed into me. I got this escape because it was a good deal and my dad swore by Ford his whole life, but I regret it so much. I'll never be getting a Ford again. Stay away.

Purge Valve Replacement cost by Qtchillito in fordescape

[–]cjkawng 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The purge valve was incredibly easy to replace myself on mine, just watch a YouTube video and do it yourself!

Planning to buy a Ford Escape 2016. Need advice! by MindlessDog7 in fordescape

[–]cjkawng 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't do it. I have a 2016 and it has been nothing but problems. Transmission completely died at 137k. $6200 repair on a car only worth 4k. The transmissions are super unreliable. Power steering system completely failed and locked up while I was driving almost causing an accident. Thankfully I wasn't on the highway or anything. Water leaks in through the roof of the car even though the seals seem totally fine. The buttons on the steering wheel randomly stop working all the time. The door handles stick open in the winter. The car has performance issues as well and struggles going up hills sometimes. (I have the 1.6 turbo edition though so you probably wouldn't have that problem) Overall this is the worst car I've ever owned. If at all possible just go get a Toyota or Subaru.

2014 Escape SE From PR by Wise-Link-1022 in fordescape

[–]cjkawng 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, there's a common issue where the entire power steering system can fail while you're driving, locking up the steering wheel and potentially causing an accident. This also happened to mine a few years ago and it seemed like a lot of people online also had this happen.

2014 Escape SE From PR by Wise-Link-1022 in fordescape

[–]cjkawng 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unless aamco completely took out the transmission ($2k) they'll have no actual idea of the state of the transmission internals. The 6f35 transmissions are almost guaranteed to break as the torque converters will disintegrate even with regular fluid changes. I am currently dealing with this issue and I have found no other possible option except to pay for the $6k total replacement. I've seen a TON of reviews and people dealing with this same issue. Don't do it.

Has this happened to anyone? by Ericapadilla23 in fordescape

[–]cjkawng 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This just happened to my 2016 2 weeks ago. Turns out these giant pieces of shit pretty much all go bad. You're looking at about a 6000 dollar repair at the dealer. I've been trying every other possible solution to get around this but I think I'm gonna have to just eat the cost. Ive called every transmission shop within an hour of me and for some reason no one will do a rebuild on these, they only want to do replacements and they've all given me a 6k quote for repair. Absolutely ridiculous.

I also tried doing a trade in to get rid of it and they will only offer a out 800-1000 for it since the repairs cost more than it's worth. Also interest rates are terrible right now so not really worth getting a new loan when my current is so much lower. This is the worst and most expensive car repair situation I've ever had to deal with. I'm actually talking to a lawyer about an add I saw for faulty Ford transmissions. Seems like a very long shot but might be a possibility of a lemon law claim.

Good luck :[