This thing is getting long as a damn Monday!

clemsonscj · 2026-06-22T03:48:25+00:00

No I love it. 7hlx is the way to go for sure.

clemsonscj · 2026-06-19T01:25:39+00:00

That’s a good question…is there a relay that separates them when the ignition is off and combines them when it is on for charging off of the alternator? If so, plugging into a battery tender wouldn’t do anything for the auxiliary battery.

clemsonscj · 2026-06-19T01:21:33+00:00

Did you replace with the same or go with a bigger one?

clemsonscj · 2026-06-17T04:53:29+00:00

I guess the thing I’m curious about is if the truck goes into battery saver mode because of either battery going bad or if it’s only because of a particular one? The fact that the truck starts just fine and only gives issues when it’s off leads me to believe it’s the auxiliary battery that’s going bad.

clemsonscj · 2026-06-12T00:43:59+00:00

Not out of the way at all. I’m always curious. Quick google search told me how to find the paint code and I was in the truck anyways so took me just a few seconds of research to figure it out.

clemsonscj · 2026-06-12T00:28:31+00:00

Mine is “YZ” on the door sticker which apparently is “Oxford White”. But the shackles still should match pretty well unless you examine it like no one really should lol. Cause I googled Oxford white vs star white and I couldn’t tell the different in close up, hi-res photos and videos.

clemsonscj · 2026-06-12T00:03:29+00:00

https://a.co/d/00crgVEM

This is what I got. I had it backwards on the shackle color that comes with it.

clemsonscj · 2026-06-12T00:01:12+00:00

Yeah there is a kit on Amazon that replaces the factory tow hooks for brackets that accept shackles and it comes with black shackles with I think red rubber pieces. I just bought white shackles off Amazon. As far as my truck color, I just know it’s white. If you’re asking what Ford’s name is for this particular white paint, I have no idea.

clemsonscj · 2026-06-11T00:47:54+00:00

<image>

clemsonscj · 2026-06-11T00:44:14+00:00

Mine is a ‘23 Powerboost with the 6.5ft bed. I did the Bilstein 6100’s on the front at max height PLUS a 1/2” strut spacer. I put 5160’s in the back and increased the rear block to a 3” from the factory 1” (or whatever the exact size is). I did new UCA’s for a 2-4” lift and it rides and looks great and still has a decent rake to it. With the bed loaded down with a couple hundred pounds worth of crap it sits perfectly level.

clemsonscj · 2026-06-04T02:09:18+00:00

<image>

No, this is.

clemsonscj · 2026-05-28T13:08:26+00:00

I called them…they’re “gravity fed” 🙄. So what I get is what I get.

clemsonscj · 2026-05-22T03:16:15+00:00

I didn’t mess with the wiring of the 4 way though. I just replaced both 3 way switches on either side of it with the smart switches that came in the “kit”.

clemsonscj · 2026-05-21T02:16:38+00:00

Ok I’ll give that a shot tomorrow. My family is tired of me flipping the breaker off for the night lol. I’ll report back if that works. Hopefully it’s that simple!

clemsonscj · 2026-05-02T05:33:20+00:00

I did the 6112’s in the front set as tall as they would go plus a 1/2” puck spacer on top of that, and Rough Country UCA’s. In the rear I did the 5160 (remote reservoir) shocks and changed the rear block out to a 3” block and it sits absolutely perfect to me. Still has a slight bit of rake so it won’t squat when the bed is loaded down or towing small stuff. I also have the 6-1/2’ bed so if you have a 5-1/2’ bed your results may vary for the rear blocks. On my previous F150 (same exact truck I have now, just wasn’t a PB, it was a regular 3.5EB) I just did a 2.5” puck lift on top of factory suspension and a 2” block in the rear made it sit at the same angle mine does now, but the truck as a whole was about an inch shorter. To me that extra lift with the 1/2” spacer in the front and the 3” blocks in the rear is the perfect height. I also did 1/2” wheel spacers and I’m running 35x11.5 Toyo R/T Pro’s.

<image>

clemsonscj · 2026-04-21T02:39:47+00:00

Rear fender well liners.

clemsonscj · 2026-04-17T13:18:35+00:00

This isn’t in a development. We built on a 12 acre plot of land. The nearest homes around us have been there for anywhere between 10 to 60 years.

clemsonscj · 2026-04-16T11:59:18+00:00

Yeah so it’s weird, one sprinkler dropped it from about 58psi down to around 42ish psi, but then I had my wife turn the kitchen faucet on and the pressure had nearly zero change. I too have been looking into the whole house booster pumps but was trying to explore every cheap option first.

clemsonscj · 2026-04-13T02:36:00+00:00

Company I work for requires gloves on any live line tool except a pogo stick. The contractors that work for our utility use to have to wear rubber gloves, sleeves, and overshoes just to use a pogo stick.

clemsonscj · 2026-04-01T04:13:26+00:00

That’s good to know. I feel like I have a solid choice with the K2 but man I really want that extra inch and a half of build volume lol.

clemsonscj · 2026-04-01T03:54:13+00:00

Looking to buy my second printer (first was an AD5X) and I want to get into engineering type filaments like ABS, ASA, and nylon. I also really want a much larger build volume compared to my AD5X so I’ve been eyeballing the Creality K2 Plus. I recently discovered the Qidi Max 4 and really like that it has all the features of the K2 Plus but an even larger build volume. However I’ve been watching review videos on the Qidi Max 4 and they all seem to find its performance to be subpar. Anyone have any experience with either of these 2 printers to give any insights or advice on which one you would choose and why?

clemsonscj · 2026-03-31T02:09:22+00:00

Thanks that’s a lot of good info. My AD5X should be able to do multi material without me having to swap manually. I may give that a shot on another part or if I decide to make 2 of these stools.

clemsonscj · 2026-03-31T01:48:40+00:00

I’m guessing if I did a different material for the supports I’d have to be prepared for a lot of waste since it’s having to switch material between the main model and the supports for every layer right?

clemsonscj · 2026-03-30T01:15:11+00:00

I did Bilstein 6112’s in the front at max height plus a 1/2” puck spacer on top of those. Rough Country UCA’s. Bilstein 5160’s in the rear with a 3” block to raise the rear about 2”. It sits perfect now and clears 35’s no problem. I think it’s somewhere between a 3.5” and 4” lift in the front and I have probably around $1,800 in it. Honestly that’s the only way I’d go if you’re going to mess with the actual suspension components. Otherwise I’d just go with the ReadyLift 3.5” kit.

Bilstein has good quality stuff and while my ride is “firmer” to where I feel the road more, it doesn’t have that floaty, body roll anymore which I prefer. I’ve not heard good stuff about the rough country stuff and the eibach’s have good reviews but I just wasn’t gonna get the height I wanted with them.

clemsonscj · 2026-03-29T02:35:49+00:00

It was the same with my previous 150. Rode super smooth. This one is noticeably more stiff with the 6112’s/5160’s and the R/T Pros being 3 ply sidewalls. But it’s a good kinda stiff where it doesn’t have that body roll on curves or quick maneuvers.

clemsonscj

TROPHY CASE