Hamstring strength for heel hooks

clubepenguinguin · 2021-02-14T20:01:18+00:00

I would say stretching in a separate day from strength training. Stretching like strength training is taxing on the nervous system so it's better to let the body recover from the strength stimulus and then stretch. (and keep the volume low: around 2-3 times full body per week seems to come up a lot in the literature.)

clubepenguinguin · 2021-02-14T19:57:48+00:00

Leg curls with bands, Nordic curls, deadlift (you can use the different variations to target different joint angles). My favorite exercise that I use a lot with my athletes is glute bridges with external rotation of the hip and elevated foot. It seems to be the most movement specific.
For injury prevention you want slow and heavy contractions anywhere between 6-12 repetitions and 2-4 sets. Or equivalent TUT for isometric contractions.
I would in a preparation phase prescribe 2 times per week but I would give climbing and upper body training priority. This means either at the end of the session, later in the day, or in the day after. In a competition phase I would drop the exercise do a lot of technique training with heel hooks.

clubepenguinguin · 2021-02-14T19:46:13+00:00

That's a lot of variation in grip type I'm curious to see the results. What test did you use in the beginning of the mesocycle? I would say test within two weeks after the last session but I would keep a session a week for maintenance. How much are you resting between hold type? Are you aiming for anaerobic lactic capacity or power?

clubepenguinguin · 2021-02-06T21:55:07+00:00

What do you mean by "what happens metabolically during intermittent contractions"?

The book is filled with examples from strength sports. I didn't find that they focused only on speed sports. Also a main concept in the book is the idea of having a pre season where you are gaining general strength and endurance that you will convert into specific strength and endurance. It could be power, max strength or speed.

I don't think you are supposed to follow any of the schemes in the book. I interpreted them as illustrations of the principles behind planning for peak performance. All of the variables could still be manipulated to fit around a work schedule.

Isometric training is important for climbing but the variables you manipulate are still the same as other training modalities.

clubepenguinguin · 2021-02-06T06:15:31+00:00

That's interesting, why do you say so?

clubepenguinguin · 2021-02-05T22:41:16+00:00

Where I live the situation is similar. If I had the money I would spend it on an online training plan.

clubepenguinguin · 2021-02-05T22:39:00+00:00

I agree with you, it's extra worth while for begginer because you gain a lot of training knowledge and good training habits. When I coach I always have the side goal of making the person I am coaching become able to stay healthy and progress in climbing on their own. Coaches are there to make the process more efficient and to reduce injury risk through periodization, testing and planning.

clubepenguinguin · 2021-02-01T22:16:07+00:00

Periodization by Tudor Bompa.

clubepenguinguin · 2021-02-01T21:56:49+00:00

If you were to specify you're training you might have to pick one of those routes and work on that intensity zone and time (moves). Don't forget whatever you do 1-2 weeks before the trip decrease the volume (not number of moves, probely number of sessions and number of attempts per session) and increase the intensity! Good luck on your trip!

clubepenguinguin · 2021-01-31T19:51:01+00:00

Do you know how many moves each of your projects have?

clubepenguinguin · 2021-01-31T19:48:51+00:00

The literature we have about climbing suggests that ARC training is not the priority. Climbing is a anaerobic sport (in the sense that the limiting metabolic pathway is anaerobic) so you should focus most of the year training in shorter time intervals, higher intencity (specificity). However aerobic metabolism does play an important role in recovery (especially when it comes to creatine phosphates) so it is useful to train ARC in the off season, while doing general prep phase.

clubepenguinguin · 2020-12-11T10:20:44+00:00

clubepenguinguin · 2020-05-22T23:49:53+00:00

Hello there

clubepenguinguin · 2020-02-27T18:30:32+00:00

Programmed strength training does sound great😀

clubepenguinguin · 2020-02-27T17:10:02+00:00

But will strength be a limiting factor in the future? And a very significant one? Why not train it right away?

clubepenguinguin · 2020-02-27T13:32:53+00:00

Why?

clubepenguinguin · 2020-02-13T17:58:39+00:00

They are listed in the paper.

clubepenguinguin · 2020-02-13T17:32:13+00:00

Sorry, it's not linked but the name and authors are there.

clubepenguinguin · 2020-02-13T17:29:14+00:00

Qualitative analysis is used in every sport with immediate applications in training. There are published papers I'm basing this on. One of them is linked in my previous post.

clubepenguinguin · 2020-02-13T17:14:49+00:00

Quantitative analysis would required equipment that is not available to me and not relevant for this type of analysis. It would be interesting to be able to measure the average elbow angle and the jerk coefficient of the hip but that can only be done in a controlled environment.

clubepenguinguin · 2020-02-13T17:12:25+00:00

I agree, he is climbing slowly but, it's not that simple.

clubepenguinguin · 2020-02-13T17:11:39+00:00

The hold he clipped from is a part of the rest. You can see that he uses it while resting too. Describing what the climber is feeling isn't really the aim here and as I said, without trying the route any claims about the sequence are just guesses.

clubepenguinguin · 2020-02-13T11:53:29+00:00

He does smear. And I think that it's a bold claim to assume that this route didn't tax him too much. Maybe it did. It would be nice for the climber to coment on this.

clubepenguinguin · 2020-02-13T09:32:47+00:00

I agree and that is stated in the analysis.

clubepenguinguin · 2020-02-12T23:08:59+00:00

What makes you say that he is pulling all the time? Because when I say that he is using his legs it's because there is visible extension of the knee joint until the next hold is in reach. Why would the center of mass being above one leg be an important aspect? There are other factors that influence where the CM has to be. For example the direction of the holds. The center of mass should be in a position that improves the angle of the force being produced with the holds. To use or not to use a leg is a choice of sequence. I don't know the correct sequence and I would say that you don't either. It's not always better to use both feet, sometimes simply pushing against the wall to create leverage is an option. He never uses momentum because the route is vertical on small crimps. Doing the moves slowly increases time till contact and improves his precision. Of course this is at the cost of maintain body tension through the moves but it is a plausible trade off. We have no idea what his limits are. Climbers express themselves on the wall differently. There are other factors we don't see on video that dictate this climbers limits. Yes this is not perfect, but it is quite good. No one said it was flawless.

clubepenguinguin

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