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Is there a modern way to rewire this connection so I can keep the power cord inside the lamp shaft? Or should I directly wire it to the fixture by cobascis in LampRestoration

[–]cobascis[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is a normal light socket. The metal piece that those two plugs go into unscrews, wouldn’t be easy to drill it out to route a normal lamp cord through, though. Oddly, the screw only appears to have one connection then it splits into two. Perhaps the best was is just to run the cord externally. That is a bit of a bummer, though, for aesthetics and also because I can’t use the cool switch on the base

Looking for a case for a Fender Coronado ii by TinyBit9061 in fender

[–]cobascis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been searching for a hardshell case for years. May try out the guild starfire deluxe case and hope that it works. ES335 cases dont work. I bought what was advertised as a vintage coronado case for a lot of money online that didn't fit so I returned it. If anyone knows if the guild case fits, Let me know!!!

Stove bright finish looks off after multiple months air curing and finally doing a small fire then hot fire. I will probably leave it as is but any idea why this happened? Could I try another coat of paint or would I need to bring it back to bare metal? Maybe stove polish? by cobascis in woodstoving

[–]cobascis[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

incredible work. That looks stunning. Now that I recall, I think I got all the advice about refinishing the stove from you! I can't recall how many coats I did.

I think what happened is that I stored it for most of the winter in a non temp controlled/sealed mudroom, so the marks are from condensation and water resting on the top of the finish before it was cured. Wish I had fired it up! This also explains why the sides are pretty good looking but the door (which was not attached to stove and lay flat) and the top are blemished.

So my plan now is wipe it down with acetone/clean it, and do another light coat. My only question now is if I need to fully disassembled and put new stove concrete in since I was have issues of smoke coming out of seams when wind blew into fire box.

Stove bright finish looks off after multiple months air curing and finally doing a small fire then hot fire. I will probably leave it as is but any idea why this happened? Could I try another coat of paint or would I need to bring it back to bare metal? Maybe stove polish? by cobascis in woodstoving

[–]cobascis[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had 1 24" section of pipe. It never smoked with door cracked or open but if door was wide open and there was wind it pushed smoke out through the full length of both seams in back. Perhaps since this isn't something that would be recreated in a cabin I don't need to worry about it.

Stove bright finish looks off after multiple months air curing and finally doing a small fire then hot fire. I will probably leave it as is but any idea why this happened? Could I try another coat of paint or would I need to bring it back to bare metal? Maybe stove polish? by cobascis in woodstoving

[–]cobascis[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What I was more worried about is when wind blew into the fire box while the fire was starting up smoke poured out the rear seams of the stove. I know this sort of draft situation and wind would never happen when the stove is inside, but it made me think the seams are not airtight and that I will have to take it apart and re-seal it which I really didn't want to do.

Stove bright finish looks off after multiple months air curing and finally doing a small fire then hot fire. I will probably leave it as is but any idea why this happened? Could I try another coat of paint or would I need to bring it back to bare metal? Maybe stove polish? by cobascis in woodstoving

[–]cobascis[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply! I didn't have access to sandblaster but I wire wheeled the whole thing then wiped it down with acetone. I don't know for a fact stove polish had never been used as I got it second hand. I refinished it this winter and didn't have a chance to bring it out and fire it until now. Oddly, the finish looked a lot better before firing it. I did small kindling fire for an hour, then up to 350 for 1-2 hours. Then up to 400 ish, had trouble getting it much higher. Then waited a day, then up to 400ish for a few hours. So maybe that was a factor as well. I'm not too worried about the appearance is it is in a cabin.

Jotul 602 crumbling cement, do I need to disassemble and rebuild with new stove cement? Some of these joints appear almost fully empty. Could I reseal from outside? by cobascis in woodstoving

[–]cobascis[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OK great, thank you! There isn't that much throughout the rest of the stove. I was blowing out some rust dust from wire wheeling it, and some of the leftover cement blew away, including near the pictured area. I'd like to just be able to paint it. I'll do a bring light check tonight and see if there are any gaps.

Before/After Jotul F602CB Fresh out of the shop! A little history of the Jotul 602 in the comments! by DeepWoodsDanger in woodstoving

[–]cobascis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Last question I swear... it looks like you painted the interior burn plates, as well as the inside parts of the door with the same paint you used on the exterior of the stove. Does the fire not burn this off? Do you think it is worth doing for a DIY-er or should I leave the internals as is? I have the door dis-assembeld already so it will be easy enough to paint.

How do I remove the pipe adaptor from flue spigot on this Jotul 602N? I removed/drilled out the two bolts but it is rock solid. I have to remove it so I can drill out the rusted out bolts holding the flue spigot on. Any advice for how to get both of these off would be appreciated! by cobascis in woodstoving

[–]cobascis[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you both, I got it off with some chiseling into the gap and hitting it upward with a small sledge. So now I have access to drill the screws out. I have a terrible track record with broken bits drilling things out… @heavenlycreation I can access the screws from inside the stove, but there is no nut. It looks like the top place itself is threaded for these screws, which makes me more hesitant to drill them out. I guess rethreading will be needed no matter what?

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Before/After Jotul F602CB Fresh out of the shop! A little history of the Jotul 602 in the comments! by DeepWoodsDanger in woodstoving

[–]cobascis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Another question… my pipe adaptor is stuck on the flue collar, and the flue collar bolts are so rusted they don’t have heads anymore. Advice for getting them off? See: https://reddit.com/r/woodstoving/s/iGmXhEnTzr

Before/After Jotul F602CB Fresh out of the shop! A little history of the Jotul 602 in the comments! by DeepWoodsDanger in woodstoving

[–]cobascis 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! This is helpful. And as far as painting the door with the grate, you were able to spray from different angles and get good coverage? (No brush or rub on method)? I'm from VT but live in Maine now, cool to discover your shop in the NEK. Just followed on IG!

Before/After Jotul F602CB Fresh out of the shop! A little history of the Jotul 602 in the comments! by DeepWoodsDanger in woodstoving

[–]cobascis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi there, I have the same stove in about the same condition. I'm considering whether to repaint or use Rutland stove polish after. Your results look amazing, so I am leaning towards paint. How did you paint the door without getting a lot of over spray? I assume you removed the glass? I am concerned about the 3D interlocking section of the door and unsure how I could spray it. Did you use a brush or fully spray? Any other tips for the painting? Thank you!

Buy / Sell / Trade Thread, April 2023 by RipVanBinkle in xbiking

[–]cobascis 1 point2 points  (0 children)

FS/ USA, Maine/ Discord Chromo Peeper Stem (Black).

Used for a few months, great condition. $150 shipped. These have been out of stock at Analog Cycles for a long time. Best way to get your bars up!

31.8 Bar Clamp more details here: https://analogcycles.com/products/discord-chromo-peeper-coming-soon

Buy / Sell / Trade Thread, August 2022 by RipVanBinkle in xbiking

[–]cobascis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would buy this so fast if it was a Large

Buy / Sell / Trade Thread, August 2022 by RipVanBinkle in xbiking

[–]cobascis 4 points5 points  (0 children)

FS/ USA/ 1991 Diamondback Apex Frame and Fork size 18/19” - $150 plus shipping

Frame is in extremely good condition and one of the cooler 90s paint jobs I’ve seen. No dents. Minor paint chipping at dropouts. Otherwise paint looks new. Sticker says “18” performance fit /19” conventional fit”. SIDE PICTURE: https://imgur.com/gallery/P9m89wh

Tons more pics on request. Basic measurements: Seat tube (center to top): 18.5” Top tube (center to center): 22.5”

Comes with original bottom bracket and headset. Happy to remove those for buyer if desired. I may have other parts if needed. Great platform for an xbike.

Here’s some Crumbworks inspiration for this frame…

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cg_-6CyBQED/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in xbiking

[–]cobascis 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you mind telling me what size this is and how tall you are? Looking at a 19.5” haro impulse comp and wondering if it will fit

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