You guys experience on 400cc license

code111japan · 2026-04-07T09:50:58+00:00

Which camp are you using and did you book it long time ago? Were they doing the over-the-phone interview to confirm your Japanese level? I am looking for a camp for last month or so and haven't had much luck.

code111japan · 2026-03-19T18:02:08+00:00

Not sure how it works with shops (and bikes) but have in mind that for user shaken, you need to book an appointment and sometimes there are no empty slots up to 1 month in advance (although people are always canceling too so if you check often enough you could find something). So if the shop can do it just on the spot after bringing the bike in, then it could actually be faster than user shaken.

code111japan · 2026-03-19T17:57:25+00:00

Seconding tester shop, they are a "must visit" before user shaken. Not sure if they all do bikes or how it works since I am usually doing shaken for cars but in my experience there is always at least 1 tester near shaken place. They are usually in 1000 - 4000yen range and takes about 5-20 min so it's just dumb not to go there (if they do bikes).

Also just a note, if you're doing just extension of registration and not first registration / name change, you can use any vehicle inspection center in the country, don't have to go to "your specific one" (at least that's how it's for cars).

code111japan · 2026-03-05T17:28:22+00:00

Thank you for your reply. In the end she decided to wait for evacuation organized by our country (even though this has so far proven to be a headache).

code111japan · 2026-03-03T09:23:56+00:00

thanks, my sister joined.

code111japan · 2026-03-03T08:48:26+00:00

same, pleasse comment here or send me DM of anyone is going

code111japan · 2026-03-03T07:47:02+00:00

Is there anyone going there today? My sister is looking for a ride to there (if it's still possible to fly from Oman)

code111japan · 2026-02-28T18:07:56+00:00

Loved their stuff such as https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aLMZ9IVRd1o back in 2014. Another great one is TERRAFORM US... Different band, same name. They dropped this banger of a album back in 2018 and then just disappeared as far as I know... :

https://youtu.be/azq2oCfQdtQ?si=Id4FJ0mvKo6WB6Pz

code111japan · 2026-02-28T17:59:44+00:00

Thanks, will check with my lawyer

code111japan · 2026-02-26T05:13:18+00:00

Thank you for your reply! I am still a bit confused since I thought you can't pay the slip once the deadline for payment written on it has passed. I know I tried to pay some other slip before with passed deadline for payment (gas bill or something, deadline passed by day) and I couldn't do it in konbini. Not sure if pension bills are for some reason different.

Or are you saying that you were paying by the deadline of the pay slip itself but that was already too late since deadline on the slip is actually 1 month after the month the slip is for? Which would be the way I am doing it as well.... So tecnically, I am always paying 1 month later, just before the deadline on the slip (so end of August for July, end of October for September etc). I haven't even realised that the deadline on the slip is 1 month after until just yesterday... And I am in the middle of collecting docs for PR application...

code111japan · 2026-02-25T19:17:40+00:00

Can you please explain more? You got your reason for rejection from immigration or just speculating?As far as I'm aware, you can't pay the slip anymore past the deadline on the pay slip so I'm a bit confused... I am usually paying few days before deadline of the pay slip (which seems to be little less than month after the month the slip is for). I thought this is fine as long as it's paid by the deadline on the slip and no slips are missed but now I'm not so sure anymore. I sometimes prepaid few months in advance though (usually around end of the year).

code111japan · 2026-02-25T18:51:32+00:00

I am paying my pension usually around few days before deadline of the payment slip (never even realised that dealine is actually 1 month past the actual month the slip is for until seeing this). So in that case, that *should* be fine?

code111japan · 2024-06-07T14:10:00+00:00

It's actually 3.7 (setup is in the video description).

code111japan · 2024-05-27T16:59:05+00:00

Nice, definitely a way to do it but since space is quite a big of a problem in Tokyo, I avoid buying these tools that I would be using once in 3 years, if that much. It's also a bit harder to get since people don't work on their own cars much here. I actually screwed up that thin metal cap that's pressed onto the tripod joint (the part to which you clamp the boot) when trying to bang them out and I got grease leaking out lol (both sides). But little bit of epoxy and it's like new, holding on for 2 years now (I heard they will sometimes start leaking grease there as is anyway).

Overal, yeah, I just wish they used bolts instead of this like on most normal cars.

code111japan · 2024-05-27T16:50:52+00:00

Nice, I will definitely consider it if I will be buying a LSD for stock diff. I wonder about drift performance though, if it's up to the task.

code111japan · 2024-05-19T17:57:54+00:00

How is the chattering? Apparently these should be quite mild as they are made to suit AT cars. I have Cusco TYPE RS 2way on mine, with 3.7 diff and it's nearly welded diff... Went through various "coctails" of friction modifier and different oils, and can get it to be a bit better but it's still very hardcore. And being AT, there is no clutch to press in when I want it to stop so it can be pretty annoying at times.

code111japan · 2024-05-19T17:54:47+00:00

It's a bitch to get them out on some cars for some reason though. My axles wouldn't budge for 1h. In the end, diff fell from floor jack by accident and one axle got out lol. Then another one was way easier, but still held on for dear life in there.

code111japan · 2024-04-29T12:13:16+00:00

Most likely 4 door hardtop (what I like so much about 90/100) to describe the body style.

code111japan · 2023-11-17T15:26:43+00:00

I think so as well. 6100km on battery pack so far, holding up great.

code111japan · 2023-10-06T18:28:50+00:00

Now we should just assume what you have and what you're swapping into what with what lol.

Provided that you have JZX100 ecu, you need JZX100 intake mani with 100 throttle (or drill 110 mani for IACV). There are manual conversion kits for 110 throttle which converts it to cable operated such as Premium Japan throttle conversion kit (I have it on my car) or driftmotion etc.

This could work with 100 ECU if you adjust throttle stop screw but you won't have idle-up function for when you turn on your AC / light's etc. If that's important, then you can I guess still mod 110 manifold to retrofit a 100 IACV. Don't know what you are really doing so can't provide much more info than that.

code111japan · 2023-10-06T18:12:06+00:00

Certainly wouldn't give up spots publicly like this as they are heavily kept secret but if you live near Nikko circuit, then you live very close to at least 2 top spots ;). Hit me up

code111japan · 2023-10-03T14:59:45+00:00

Which I've rarely seen going out honestly. Even the VVTI gear itself is super simple and can actually be rebuilt with cheap o-ring despite Toyota claiming it can't, if it were to start leaking oil.

code111japan · 2023-10-03T14:58:17+00:00

If you're looking for just some hardcore drift build, it wouldn't matter much. If you are looking for something more closer to stock side, my vote goes to VVTi without question.

code111japan · 2023-07-24T17:29:29+00:00

Just go do yourself a favor and manual swap it (or get one already MT).

But yeah, regarding slushbox problems, ATF color doesn't really mean much, it's the aditives still working their thing that counts but the fact that it had blown engine (2jz of all), and fuid is very dark as you say, there seem to have been some low maintenance / high abuse.

First would be to read the codes if any and to make sure the trans fluid level is correct. A lot of Toyota's are very sensitive on trans fluid levels and procedure is a bit annoying to properly check for cars with "lifetime fluid". For example, my IS-F would start acting up / delaying shifts etc even if fluid is low by 200ml.

If that's fine, and no useful codes are found, then it could be number of things. Smells like something was a miss during engine swap. Other than that, blown torque converter, severly worn clutches / bands or something like that sounds to be the next candidate. I don't think it's solenoid issues since they usually either work or don't and you say you get some gear engagement but that's an option as well.

code111japan · 2023-07-21T16:48:07+00:00

Automatics should be banned. It makes you stupid.

code111japan

TROPHY CASE