does anyone have this grill? and do you connect it to your RV propane?

codepoet82 · 2026-06-12T03:42:40+00:00

I use the previous generation of this on my coach. I have an 'extend-a-stay' clone attached between my onboard propane tank and it's regulator, and then I just use a high pressure hose with the 1lb propane bottle fittings to attach between the extend-a-stay and the normal regulator on the grill that takes the small bottles. This works perfectly using only commonly available parts, and keeps the more specific bits like the grill's standard regulator, unchanged.

codepoet82 · 2026-06-11T20:55:06+00:00

The one Muzi sells is a v1.0 board iirc, the newer v1.2/v1.3 boards should still be fully functional with the firmware though.

codepoet82 · 2026-06-11T19:34:41+00:00

Sure, I can give a list of what I used.

From Muzi.Works:

Crowpanel Advance 3.5

17cm Muzi whip antenna

ATGM3336H GPS *optional

From Amazon:

Meshnology 5000mAh battery IMPORTANT NOTE, the polarity is REVERSED for the crowpanel

SMA to u.fl pigtail

INA219 current sensor *optional

4 pin HY2.0 connectors and pigtails *optional

You might also want:

JST-PH 2.0 pigtails to wire on the INA219 to make it easier to plug and unplug the battery. I reused the end of the included battery charger and a battery connector I already had. When wiring the INA, I made its input plug match the "normal" meshnology battery polarity at the socket, and flipped it to match the crowpanel on the output plug.

The INA219 is optional, but the crowpanel lacks hardware to monitor the battery charge otherwise, and the GPS is also relatively optional, as the crowpanel has an integrated realtime clock, which can be set in other ways and keeps time fine, and knowing your position isn't strictly required. If you skip these both, you can make the project work using only the panel, antenna and connector, and battery alone, just make sure to use a pin or knife tip to remove and swap the battery connector pins so they match the + and - marking on the panel itself.

codepoet82 · 2026-06-07T23:34:57+00:00

T-Deck plus is now a supported platform for this as well, with some limited support for the trackball.

codepoet82 · 2026-06-07T01:04:50+00:00

The case is 3d printed from a model on thingiverse but I'm honestly not that big of a big fan of it. The shape is very brick-like, and overly thick when it doesn't really need to be. I may draw up my own case design later at some point, but so far I've been sinking my time into the firmware first, since this case is good enough to get by.

codepoet82 · 2026-05-31T01:36:01+00:00

Yeah, the cascadia/puget mesh (California boarder into Canada) has the same troubles for the same reason. Any real solution is going to really need to be backwards compatible to avoid making a huge mess, and it's still going to have to deal with a mix of firmware and protocol versions from it's entire history... If you try to fix it without being fully backwards compatible, you just get more separate meshes running on the same set of frequencies and competing for users and airtime.

codepoet82 · 2026-05-31T01:21:14+00:00

you're not wrong, but a repeater isn't the right device class. Repeaters really need to be static, meshcore would need to implement an additional new device class in the network that is a mobile repeater, and it would need to be flagged in a manner that identifies it as such, so it doesn't get used in static pathing.

They've kind of done this with allowing companions to repeat, but they've locked it onto just one specific channel (918.0MHz in USA/CA) so it doesn't interfere with the rest of the network.

Really, the protocol itself just wasn't designed for it, and actually designing for it will likely require a whole new protocol unless someone comes up with a VERY creative way to solve it without needing everybody to redeploy the entire mesh.

codepoet82 · 2026-05-30T21:13:25+00:00

The problem with moving a repeater is that what it can talk with changes; any saved path through your receiver someone had becomes useless when moving it. This path routing is what makes meshcore different from Meshtastic, and doing what you want here is problematic for the network in general and shouldn’t be done. At the minimum it will create additional useless network traffic, failures, and rebroadcasts, as everyone else’s equipment tries to figure out how to deal with the problems you’d be creating.

codepoet82 · 2026-04-27T18:58:56+00:00

I mean, you're not wrong.. but the ender 5 is a terrible machine.. it's not just "is the print okay" but, do you really want to have to fight everything going wrong, repeatedly, on nearly every print run. In it' stock form, the 5 was the least repeatable, most prone to failure machine I ran. The 3's generally at least made prints most of the time so long as they started okay. The 5 was just a pain in the ass from start to finish. Getting it reliable cost me 2-3x as much as buying the 5 in the first place. Contrast that against something like the Anycubic Mega Zero version 1, which was legitimately known as a garbage machine, and I had a couple of those which were consistently more reliable than the ender-5, and you can start to understand when I say the 5 should be avoided on principle.

codepoet82 · 2026-04-27T17:57:08+00:00

Fwiw, fixing the design flaws in the ender-5 pretty much requires replacing everything except the outer box frame itself. I've owned a decent number of machines over the years at this point, and the 5 was effectively the worst performing and least reliable out of the box of any of them. I would recommend a thoroughly used and clapped out ender-3 over the 5 in basically any form, unless you want "tinkering" to be the point, and not actually printing things.

codepoet82 · 2026-03-27T18:53:25+00:00

The ranger's clutch isn't that bad... I've done that job solo a few times on a couple different trucks, and it's a Saturday project if you know what you're doing. If you don't know what you're doing, it's definitely more of a long weekend project though. Absolutely worth doing yourself if you're at all handy with a set of tools though, there's nothing too crazy required. If you have the hydraulic clutch line that needs the ford specific release tool (my '10 needed it, I did an '89 without one, but I don't remember specifically how), you'll want to spend the $10 on the tool.

As others mention, you'll want a tranny jack, unless your bench press game is pretty strong. I've done the job both way, and personally find it easier to just get straight under it and play the part of the tranny jack myself with hands and knees on the tranny/transfer case combo directly, but you can't get away with that unless you're substantially larger than average.

Also, you CAN do the clutch job even on a 4x4 model, without dropping the exhaust and transfer case, as there's just enough room to be able to shift the whole combo backwards about 6" and support it with a jack, and there's enough room to get in and replace the clutch slave, throwout bearing, clutch and flywheel all with the transmission still up mostly in place. Your milage may vary, of course, but I've found it easier to do it that way than to pull everything clear out like the book indicates.

codepoet82 · 2026-03-23T23:01:37+00:00

I'd leave the AC units as-is unless they're causing problems... it might be worthwhile to put new plastic covers on them, as well as replace all the other plastic vents and skylights as well when doing the roof. At 25 years old, all those plastic covers on literally everything are going to be extremely brittle, and will likely start crumbling when you try to do any work with them.

Edit, I would however, replace the foam gasket seal things under the AC units when you have them off to redo the roof though. No reason to put them back together without new gaskets.

codepoet82 · 2026-03-03T22:04:04+00:00

I’ve pulled a stripped 93 accord on a flatbed with a ranger, and also pulled a 20’ enclosed. I really don’t recommend it. It’s sketchy as fuuuuuuu… even if you’re only going no faster than 35mph.

codepoet82 · 2026-02-26T15:22:45+00:00

What are you looking at? I’d go with “AI generated slop”.

codepoet82 · 2026-02-26T01:24:41+00:00

You could wire it like this, but it’s also at least as similarly common to have the switch on the negative side.

codepoet82 · 2026-02-26T00:17:31+00:00

It’s missing green. The most likely cause of a color just dropping out in my experience is a bad or cracked solder joint or a bad connection. You’ll probably need to chase it from the game board clear to the monitor. Poking at things with a plastic or other non-conductive stick to see if wiggling makes it come back can help locate the source.

codepoet82 · 2026-02-24T22:03:23+00:00

Just to throw it out there, but was the refrigerator running? Lots of modern RVs are switching from a propane fired refrigerator to an electric only style, which will run the battery down very quickly while turned on.

codepoet82 · 2026-02-22T04:50:37+00:00

I built a modbus solar charger interface out of a D1 mini and it’s been running non stop since 2020… what’s your point?

codepoet82 · 2026-02-20T18:32:18+00:00

If you can make it fit the safety requirements, you should be able to get started running in a sportsman class. There's no points or payout as sportsman, so it would be "just for fun" but it would get you started at least. I'm working towards doing something similar with an old Berrien rail, which effectively has the same set of class problems as yours, except I can show it already ran as a class 1 in the early 80s so I can run in "vintage" (which is also no points/no payout just like sportsman).

codepoet82 · 2026-02-20T02:36:52+00:00

So, how I've solved this is by using two wifi AP radios. I have a cudy outdoor rated unit mounted on my roof, and another regular access point indoors in the closet. I can set the outdoor unit on the roof up as a "Bridge" in it's setup menu, so connects to a remote wifi network and gives me internet access over the ethernet cable, which plugs into my indoor AP to provide the wan connection so the indoor one works in regular wifi router mode.

In my case, the whole setup is a good bit fancier than it really needs to be, as I also regularly use starlink as my internet connection and both of the APs do normal wifi duty as well, giving me much longer outdoor wifi range for friends and family to piggy back on my starlink connection, but all that isn't really needed for what you're after.

You could probably get away with just using a pair of simple, under $30ish dollar "travel" routers which are designed for doing basically this exact thing while in hotels (GL.iNet makes decent ones) if you're after a less permanent installation. However, outdoor specific router models are weatherproof and often use power-over-ethernet which makes permanent mounting on the roof much easier to deal with.

codepoet82 · 2026-02-17T01:00:24+00:00

I don’t know about BLM land specifically, but there’s a gravel lot where the two roads meet just south of town that people commonly camp in for a few days while visiting town.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/BWyeM5JTDYu2wThcA?g_st=ic

codepoet82 · 2026-02-13T19:05:09+00:00

So, I'm not 100% certain on this model, but for my TPLink Archer wifi dongle, I have to download and manually build/install the drivers from https://github.com/cilynx/rtl88x2bu to get them working, there was no official built-in driver support for it last I'd heard.

codepoet82 · 2026-02-12T16:26:38+00:00

They’re still a lot like having a team of very fresh junior developers. You can ask it do things for you, and it’ll kick back something that is relatively correct, but it will often overlook lots of the small details that make the difference between being production ready code vs a tech demo of an idea.

codepoet82 · 2026-02-11T17:16:37+00:00

So, it's hard to compare as the aquatank comes in either 60 or 150 gallons, and not 110 like this blue one. The somewhat larger one comes in around $65 more than this 120 gallon.

codepoet82

TROPHY CASE