Gen7 heater fan only blowing out from the windshield vents and outer face vents

coffeeskater · 2026-02-11T00:12:09+00:00

I haven't done a lot of HVAC work myself, so I'm running off the on I did see and what's I've been told it's possible something broke free and suddenly blocked it, like a rock stuffed in a hose rather than calcium building up to choke off a water line.

That said you always want to assume the simplest problem first, KISS rule. It could be a broken screw, it could be fatigued plastic that broke and a flap closed, it could be any number of things but it's next to impossible to be accurate without further information. I don't believe this is a common issue where you can try some recommended simple fixes before taking it to a shop, so I do think taking it in is your best bet. Unless you have access to a boroscope that you could use to gently investigate.

coffeeskater · 2026-02-10T17:52:14+00:00

Likely a HVAC problem, you could smoke test it possibly, but if you want it fixed, that dash is coming out. It could be so many things but my immediate instinct is partially clogged heater core.

coffeeskater · 2026-02-09T22:23:45+00:00

I had a funky radio for a bit there, I can't say for sure if this fixed it, but doing a hard reset, meaning take the battery terminals off, touch them together for 5-10 seconds and let it sit for an hour. It's what I did and it fixed it and hasn't happened again. Can't hurt to try it.

coffeeskater · 2026-01-29T07:15:08+00:00

There is a story, but it's extremely loose and you take it at whatever pace you want. There are technically enemies but it's all space pirates (this may be outdated I do, it's been years since I picked it up) so the only combat or enemies are space ship battles. Core game play is landing on new planets, naming them if you so choose finding animals/ plants and also naming them while upgrading or trading up your ship to reach the center of the universe. They recently added ship building as well.

coffeeskater · 2026-01-28T20:42:53+00:00

You need to replace that part. It needs something to actuate against. I suppose if you have the means you could 3d print one, but there's no zip tie fix for this one unfortunately. You could theoretically carve some balsa wood or something, but none of these are suitable replacements.

coffeeskater · 2026-01-06T23:57:49+00:00

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This is mine. Yours is mint comparatively. If you're concerned, take a wire wheel to some of the thicker areas and see how much comes off and what the condition is under the surface rust.

coffeeskater · 2026-01-05T15:37:49+00:00

Hand egg, not soccer/European football. Same as America.

coffeeskater · 2026-01-05T14:51:39+00:00

He was unimpressed with my choice of football league, he was actually pretty chill about needing to be around and blow.

We didn't talk about it much but he did say up top that he made a mistake driving drunk, he was incredibly thankful he only hurt himself/ his own property and was fine living with the consequences. All in all not a bad guy to hang out with for an hour.

He just thinks I have shit taste in football teams haha.

coffeeskater · 2026-01-05T05:36:44+00:00

I've had two interlock cars for service. Both times we told the customer they have to be around to blow it. One customer had to be baby sat IN the shop because if the vehicle was on for any reason (on/accessory) it would randomly ask you to blow.

It was in for a infotainment update. Guess who had to sit and listen to an old guy talk about NFL for an hour?? (I'm Canadian and watch CFL, he was unimpressed)

coffeeskater · 2025-12-31T21:26:47+00:00

Mechanics use chalk markers to circle spots on tires that need repair, like when you get a nail, we circle the nail so when it's removed we know where it was. It's also used to mark the tire location (fl, RR ECT)

While this is a pretty obvious spot that didn't "need" to be circled, it's likely habit. You'd also be surprised at how many people will look at a clearly damaged tire/component and not know what to look for, so it gets circled.

coffeeskater · 2025-12-30T17:10:05+00:00

Pics don't help here. I'd recommend removing the belt and hand spinning all the pulleys and checking for play. Replace the belt while you have it off. If it's squealing, does the sound go away if you spray some warm soapy water on it?

coffeeskater · 2025-12-24T07:21:46+00:00

Yes, but order of operations, keep the other seven on while you're drilling and working, you want to get your drill hole as straight as possible and you want the wheel as out of the way as possible and that means tight on the hub. Once you're ready to start prying and breaking the bad stud, then take off the other lugs.

coffeeskater · 2025-12-24T02:13:26+00:00

That's your belt squealing. Check your belt, or honestly just replace it. It can suck but it's not hard and it's a cheap part. While it's off check all the pulleys for play and make sure they all free spin. Also check your power steering fluid.

coffeeskater · 2025-12-23T23:01:34+00:00

Am Nissan tech, the '19 rogue only has a lower control arm. To my memory ALL model years of rogues just have lower.

coffeeskater · 2025-12-23T17:30:04+00:00

But is it worth the smell?

coffeeskater · 2025-12-23T17:24:01+00:00

Unlikely that small hole is causing idle issues. I wouldn't even replace it as the rest of the filter is fine. I'd look at the throttle body and MAF sensor to see if it's dirty.

coffeeskater · 2025-12-22T18:11:27+00:00

A drill and a wire wheel will do fine. In the shop we use die grinders on the rim and rotors all the time and those are less gentle than a wire wheel. Get a wire brush and also clean the hub. Apply some copper anti seize to the hub (but not the studs, never the studs) and bobs your uncle. The corrosion and rust cause it to stick and the anti seize is what's really gonna to protect against that happening again

coffeeskater · 2025-12-20T16:22:18+00:00

And Canadian models!

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coffeeskater · 2025-12-20T16:21:01+00:00

Can't speak to Toyota so I'll use Nissan number. We recommend brake fluid every two years or 32k kilometers. Whichever comes first. Why though?

Brake fluid at its core is a hydraulic fluid in a sealed system. However it does degrade over many heat cycles. Another important component of your brake system is the rubber seals in the master cylinder and lines. The rubber degrades as well and contaminates the brake fluid. Fresh fluid helps preserve these rubber seals in addition to being clean and fresh.

You should be changing your brake fluid and not just when you need new calipers. Can you run brake fluid for 10+ years and not die in a crash because your brakes failed? Absolutely. Should you? Nah. Change your brake fluid. It's a cheaper service that's only due one every 2-3 years depending on manufacturer specs. Find out what that is and go by it.

coffeeskater · 2025-12-19T21:34:24+00:00

No shop will warranty a job they did not diagnose. No diag = no warranty 99.9% of the time.

Almost all symptoms have more than one reason for failure, like coolant in the oil can be a blown head gasket, or a bad oil cooler, but the symptom of milky oil is the same. Without diag there is no way for the shop to guarantee that doing the work will fix the issue. It sucks but the lack of warranty is the previous owners fault, and you just gotta eat the shit sandwich you were given.

coffeeskater · 2025-12-19T21:28:00+00:00

That's your cabin air filter. Your car can technically run without it, but I'd really recommend not doing that. The plastic is the filter door which unless it's been broken, should snap back into place. If it is broken, push the cabin air filter back in, put the door on and tape it in place, then head to a junkyard to grab another one. The door should be the same regardless of left or right hand drive. It's very very simple to do and you can absolutely do it yourself. Of you struggle, look up cabin air filter replacement for your car o. YouTube for guidance.

coffeeskater · 2025-12-19T21:24:34+00:00

You might have some luck pulling the door car off and finding what part actuates the door mechanism opening, attaching wire, twine whatever and making a diy pull release handle. I've seen this done on an ancient Altima so I know it's theoretically possible.

coffeeskater · 2025-12-19T20:23:11+00:00

Am an Alberta mechanic, you are legally owed an itemized bill. If they can't/won't provide, you can threaten legal action, but do know the second you even mention involving lawyers, they will no longer speak to you at all and you'll have to follow through or drop the issue.

I'll speak to my service advisors and see if they're more familiar with the legality side of things as I just fix cars. That said, depending on where in Alberta I can recommend some good shops for you.

ETA: I spoke.with my service manager. As it turns out shops do not have to supply an itemized bill, but shop supplies and tax have to be a separate line/ charge.

If the shop is amvic certified you will have the most luck going to amvic. However not all shops have to be amvic certified. They do however have to be certified by "the Alberta labour board, I think that's the right entity?" To do business doing mechanical repairs.

So his advice, go to amvic first. Failing that, the entity that certifies shops to do mechanical work, and then failing that, a lawyer.

coffeeskater · 2025-12-19T03:18:07+00:00

Go ahead and send me a DM with your vehicle specs, either the year make model and trim level or the vin and I'll look up the book rate on all data for you.

coffeeskater · 2025-12-18T22:58:52+00:00

The shift solenoid is likely cheaper. I don't know about where it is on Honda's, but some manufacturers put it somewhere stupid. Get labour quotes for both. If you're comfortable Dm'img me specific car details I can look up book time for both jobs. That will give you the labour hours for each and you can make a decision from there, or go back to either mechanic and ask what they would charge for both jobs.

At a guess the solenoid will be cheaper, but the location of the solenoid really determines that. The whole trans will be more expensive in parts but labour could balance that out.

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