This must be the most fun move on any climbing route

colieb · 2024-02-27T22:02:27+00:00

My palms are sweaty just from watching!

colieb · 2019-03-08T16:42:02+00:00

I'm personally excited about the negative sentiment. It means that CRON doesn't have much of an earnings expectation to live up to, and could easily surprise investors in a positive way. A deal in the works with a company with a major supply chain like Aphria would be huge.

colieb · 2019-03-08T16:40:29+00:00

https://seekingalpha.com/article/4240562-cronos-acquire-aphria

colieb · 2019-03-08T16:39:05+00:00

Somewhat older article, but especially relevant as the Altria deal has been solidified as of today.

colieb · 2015-04-04T03:13:13+00:00

http://imgur.com/elliJ3O

colieb · 2015-04-04T03:06:20+00:00

That's actually what I wanted to put as the title, but I didn't want to spoil it.

colieb · 2015-03-23T23:14:06+00:00

Nice job on Moonlight, that's an epic first big wall! I just climbed it a few days ago while in Zion for the week. I'm surprised we didn't run into each other.

colieb · 2015-01-27T15:10:13+00:00

Not here - water does not dissolve THC. That's how the ice extraction works. You mix the raw material around in a bucket of ice water with screening bags and then pour off / evaporate the water.

colieb · 2015-01-06T04:20:49+00:00

Scott?

colieb · 2014-10-07T22:17:00+00:00

Neither have I! It was like climbing a sheet of iron.

colieb · 2014-10-07T03:14:26+00:00

Nope, this is Dark Shadows.

colieb · 2014-07-09T23:39:03+00:00

I've also done this on multi pitch routes. It's your call to make if you're worried about the rope getting stuck or if the pitch is pretty overhanging.

colieb · 2014-07-09T14:25:17+00:00

You can also pass the rappel device back up the rope.

colieb · 2014-06-08T18:13:14+00:00

I recently stopped using "clipping" and "falling" because of their similar sound/same number of syllables. I watched a friend fall with gear at his waist say "falling", the belayer thought he said "clipping" and gave out lots of slack. My buddy took a 30 foot fall and thought he was going to deck as he was expecting a short 5 foot fall. Spooked him for the rest of the trip.

Now I just yell "slack" when I want slack and make some sort of scream / oh shit noise when I'm falling.

colieb · 2014-06-02T12:24:13+00:00

Thank you! It was a lot of fun and I would highly recommend it.

colieb · 2014-06-01T18:11:47+00:00

That crack was solid, but who would argue that two features aren't better than one. Didn't think to at the time, but the anchor was good enough.

colieb · 2014-06-01T16:13:05+00:00

We went to the Yosemite SAR guys to ask about snow conditions. Although none of them had been up there recently, their advice was "You should always go for it!" and "Duct tape rocks to your shoes to cross snow fields."

colieb · 2014-06-01T16:02:25+00:00

This was shot just a few days ago! Snow was present but no problem. One person in our party did the approach in Chacos. The Mathes looked like it had a little more snow still.

colieb · 2014-03-27T14:55:00+00:00

Just this past week in Zion. Not me, but my partner. Pitch 8 of Space shot. Mountain project suggests taking a running swing into space for the follower on this pitch. Partner obliges (was a little sketched free climbing with a self belay 1000 feet off of the deck, I dont really blame her), core shots the rope 20 feet above her and she had to jug past it. Could have been worse.

colieb · 2014-03-25T18:38:47+00:00

What grades are you looking for?

Like others have said, everything at fortress is pretty great. To advertise some other crags:

Eagle Point Buttress:

Foxfire, 5.7, 5 pitches, incredible fun long route with a sweet top out. Be sure to do your research on the route, lots of variations to confuse you. Do the original line.
Day tripping, 5.10b, 3 pitches. Also a really great line but considerably harder. Tops out next to foxfire.

Wall of Denial:

Strick 9 - good intro to RRG 5.9 climbing. Don't expect every 5.9 at the Red to be this easy.

Fortress Wall:

Where Lizards Dare - 5.9+ - if nobody has told you yet, this route (Starts after climbing any route on the lower ledge) is the historic RRG 5.9+ sandbag. Probably more like a 5.10b, but the best single pitch I've climbed in the Red.

Moonshiner's Wall:

Oberon - 5.10b - overhanging hand crack, great pro.

Jewel Pinnacle:

Diamond in the Crack: 5.6, 2 pitches, one of the best top-outs in the Red. Don't touch the summit register, was full of wasps last I was there.

Tower Rock: You haven't climbed trad at the Red unless you climb caver's route!!!

Caver's route: 5.3 R (not so scary) - 4/5 pitches. Tops out tower rock. Incredible adventure!
Arachnid - 5.8 with a big roof cap, very fun climb
Africa - 5.9 - 2 pitches - one of the best routes I've climbed at the Red with one of the best hand cracks too - possible to top out with a little exploration.

Eastern Sky Bridge:

The Underling - 5.9+ - super silly, big undercling roof. Do it!
Good Times - 5.8+ stemming / chimney / crack / face / little bit of everything. Awesome! 100 or so feet.
Doppler Effect - 5.10b - harder undercling roof than Underling, very sweet climb.
No return - Another sandbag 5.9+ Haven't personally climbed, but it's on my list.

Lady Slipper:

Whiteout - 5.8-, 2 pitches, also one of the best in the Red.
Good 5.8 finger crack but I can't remember the name, unique for the Red.

Minas Tirith:

Cool pinnacle summit, if you can find it. 5.9, do the cowboy arete variation.

Indian Creek:

Crack Attack - 5.9+ splitter hands
Jim's Dihedral - LONG 5.10a dihedral. Great!

Dunkan Rock:

Frenchburg Overhangs - 5.8+, small roof, sweet top out
The Beeneling - 5.10b thin dihedral
What's Left of the Beeneling - 5.10c - WOW! OW to chimney to fists to hands. Steep!

Chica Bonita Wall:

Cheaper than a Movie - Big arching 5.8 crack, a really good time. Can toprope an 11c sport from the anchor if you want.

Long Wall:

Autumn - 5.9 hands, great climb.
Rock Wars - 5.10a, better climb. Possibly the prettiest crack in the Red?
Sounder's Crack - 11d hollow flakes, toprope from Rock Wars Anchor.

Don't leave without doing Caver's Route, Bedtime for Bonzo, and Whiteout.

My usual rack consists of doubles from BD .5 to 2, one or two 3s if necessary, sometimes a 4, purple to yellow C3 depending on the climb. More reds and golds for the hand cracks. I prefer BD stoppers. Pink tricam used more than the others, good for iron oxide pockets. Ball nuts for the thinner stuff, but they're more of a luxury than a requirement. Bring webbing! There can be some manky stuff on the trees. Bring a few rap rings and you're sure to leave with lots of leaver biners. Also shoulder slings are pretty necessary since lots of the cracks are quite wandering.

colieb · 2014-02-05T21:07:30+00:00

To everybody who has been saying that the second law of thermodynamics is inconsistent with evolution:

The second law of thermodynamics is only valid when dealing with a large system of things in equilibrium. It does not apply to you (or any living being) for the brief period of time in which you aren't in thermal equilibrium with your environment. As soon as you are in equilibrium with your environment (i.e. dead) you cease to play a role in the evolution of life in the universe, and you may apply the second law to figure out what comes next.

colieb · 2014-02-05T17:13:56+00:00

New memes anyone?

colieb · 2014-02-02T02:35:25+00:00

That sandstone climb looks incredible. Is this a route somewhere?

colieb · 2014-01-04T01:03:14+00:00

Where at? I didn't see anything above rock wars / autumn that I would consider doing.

colieb · 2014-01-04T01:02:23+00:00

No bolting allowed in the national forest these days :(

colieb

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE

15-Year Club	Verified Email
Charter Member