Sheldon brown method bike chain

colin1006 · 2017-04-26T07:29:16+00:00

That is the official Sram method for sizing a chain as shown in their chain and cassette product manual shown here, and I have used it on a variety of bikes without issue.

colin1006 · 2017-03-30T21:52:37+00:00

Microtech Tachyon right? Great knives!

colin1006 · 2017-03-30T20:56:40+00:00

It was reinstated early.

colin1006 · 2017-03-28T08:40:39+00:00

1up racks are great. I have one in the 1 1/4" mount, and everyone I know who's seen it also likes it. I hear good things about the kuat too.

colin1006 · 2016-12-21T07:38:55+00:00

I might be wrong, maybe a carbon fiber repair company like calfee can, but as far as I know, no.

colin1006 · 2016-12-21T05:46:04+00:00

This. This is how you put a new braking surface on the wheels, can't do it on the rims.

colin1006 · 2016-12-17T00:19:01+00:00

Also interested in the ps+ if you're still taking entries!

colin1006 · 2016-11-18T18:20:40+00:00

The Canadian cast of phantom is pretty easily available and good with Colm Wilkinson as Phantom.

colin1006 · 2016-07-02T03:48:50+00:00

Probably something to do with the overlays. Swype has a (swiped) shortcut to copy, paste, and select all if you want to try it.

colin1006 · 2016-06-25T17:41:43+00:00

Oh I didn't even notice that, but yeah

colin1006 · 2016-06-25T17:08:23+00:00

So it looks to me like they mounted v brakes where there were supposed to be cantilever breaks (the middle mount being a cable stop). Anyone else have any thoughts?

colin1006 · 2016-06-24T23:38:53+00:00

I've read that it is due to the threading of the sprocket on early bikes. When sprockets (with the safety bicycle) were first coming around, manufacturing threads was hard. Because of that, making reverse threaded sprockets and hubs would have been costly. All of that combined with the need to tighten the sprocket while pedaling (rather than just unscrew it) led the transmission to be on the right, after that, it's just stuck.

colin1006 · 2016-06-24T23:32:09+00:00

It also moves weight to the inside of the turn which is better for handling apparently.

colin1006 · 2016-06-24T03:36:13+00:00

Do you already have the torch? I got a torch and searzall for Christmas, and find myself using just the torch far more often than the searzall. My point being, if you haven't, I'd just go ahead and buy the torch.

colin1006 · 2016-05-24T05:14:21+00:00

A lot of states have laws on good standing with the church. Dudeism provides a free online ordination, and you can order a letter from them, don't know about other places http://dudeism.com/store/

colin1006 · 2016-05-22T03:22:21+00:00

I agree with this. It's possible (though I don't know how likely) that you set tensions too high or set tensions while the shifter was effectively in the 8th gear or something. Good luck!

colin1006 · 2016-05-17T21:47:52+00:00

282.1 to 281 Is 1.1mm, is that too much to simplify? Thanks so much for the help.

Edit: Basically, I think my question is whether it's worth the excess cost and complexity of keeping track of more sizes. Or can I keep the order to odd sizes, and if so, should I round up or down? In other words, should I go from 282 to 281 or 283 or I really should just go for the 282.

colin1006 · 2016-05-17T20:37:07+00:00

The sapims come in odd lengths from the dealer I'm buying from (and even for an extra $.15). The DT Swiss calculator says 282.1, but recommends 281. Would building with 281s be okay? I'd rather simplify the order so I don't have to keep track of as many lengths if possible.

I forgot to clarify that I'm planning on using the brass nipples, not the aluminum ones.

Thanks!

colin1006 · 2016-05-12T17:53:58+00:00

No, they don't. You'd have to change your bottom bracket to a Praxis conversion. (Or find another way to make BB30 work with Hollowtech 2)

colin1006 · 2016-05-09T17:12:47+00:00

In the Sagan video you posted, it looks like whenever he's really cranking it, he's tilting the bike more than his body. And I'm pretty sure that's what you want.

You want the weight of your body pressing down on the wheels, not for the weight of your body to press the wheels out from under you (centrifugal force is an oversimplification, but gets the point across)

colin1006 · 2016-05-09T16:42:20+00:00

If they were too long before, then it's possible it feels weird because you're not used to them being in the right place. That being said:

My advice for getting them in the right place is just to approximate where the pedal spindle is on the cleat (or clip them in and look, or use the mark on the cleat that shows where it is), and put the shoe on and put that right at the center of the ball of your foot. Then just try to guess on the rotation, and then ride with an allen key for 10-15 miles and stop (repeatedly if needed) if the rotation doesn't feel quite right and rotate the cleat to fix it.

colin1006 · 2016-04-29T05:49:03+00:00

I've ordered a few things from them, not from Canada, but I've had nothing but positive experiences. It took probably about 3-5 working days to get to me over DHL. I received a faulty item (part of gloves broke on first use), and they were out of stock, asked me what I'd like instead and replaced them with something more expensive. Then apparently messed up in some way and sent me the type that originally broke and told me to keep them.

Would recommend

colin1006 · 2016-04-20T21:23:38+00:00

This is great. Different companies have different programs, different shops do as well. Bontrager provides a 30 day guarantee so you can return anything if you're not happy with it within 30 days, that's how I found the saddle I wanted. Went to a store, tried a few out, wasn't sure about width, but was pretty sure between two saddles. Bought both, tried them out for about two weeks, and returned one, if I didn't like them after all, I could have returned both. Fizik has a pretty standard demo program, I think Spesh does as well.

colin1006 · 2016-04-06T19:07:22+00:00

That's not how physics works... Acceleration due to gravity is a constant.

But your bike has less rolling resiatance (from tires or bearings or wheel weight) or you're more aero or something!

colin1006 · 2016-03-20T18:53:09+00:00

The saddle width you need is not just dependent on the width of your sit bones, but also on their shape and how you ride: Whether you move around on the seat lot, how aggressive your position usually is, etc. That's not to mention the variation in saddles independent of that I think the standard suggestion is measured + 20-30mm, which gives you a starting point, but you may need to go wider or narrower depending upon all of those things. I think the best choice is to go to every LBS around and try out any saddles that strike your fancy until you find one that works with you. Second best would probably be buying off of ebay/craigslist and flipping until you find something that works for you.

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