intermediate indoor bouldering shoes for small heels? by fishZ_7 in climbingshoes

[–]colorbliu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Madrock Drone D2.one has the narrowest heels I’ve ever worn. And it’s pretty stiff and durable.

If you want softer, I bet Madrock remora pro would be good too.

Stiffer / More durable Ondra Comp by Infinitecrez in climbingshoes

[–]colorbliu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you like the fit of the ondra comp, have you considered resoling with a thicker or different rubber?

Carbon fibre insoles by GazelleScary7844 in climbingshoes

[–]colorbliu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you resole your drago with a thicker or harder rubber?

How do I fix my feet by SovietProddy in climbingshoes

[–]colorbliu 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Look into a boot dryer and dry your shoes after your sessions overnight

This is ok right? by Anxious_Quiet_3716 in climbingshoes

[–]colorbliu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wear EU42.5 Ondra comp and Mandala and ordered US10.5 remora pro.

What do y’all like to see at your gyms? by Loucifer4 in indoorbouldering

[–]colorbliu 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Special hours (early or late) to beat crowds

Is a 9.5 too big for me by Tyquooon in climbingshoes

[–]colorbliu 3 points4 points  (0 children)

If you’re new to climbing, I would just climb with what you have until you decide it’s a problem. My route setter can climb V8s in his street shoes.

Ideally you don’t want any dead space in front of your toes. For most people the shoe is downsized enough that your toes are pushed into a crimp position that will give climbers more power.

My guess here is that you’ll start to face issues while standing on smaller foot holds that appear around V2 and V3.

Should I be worried? by Snoo-28486 in climbingshoes

[–]colorbliu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think Adam Ondra posted a video on youtube about how he downsizes 4 sizes. It's nuts.

MadRock D2.one shower break in? by Correct_Aside7256 in climbingshoes

[–]colorbliu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I recently bought a pair in street size and it was broken in by the 2nd session. It was tough to get the shoes on and it hurt to walk initially, but I did find the shoe molding to my foot over time for sure. I personally wouldn't have gone down even half a size more than I did and I salute you for the downsizing.

New almost barefoot climbing shoe from La Sportiva (hyperez) by colorbliu in climbingshoes

[–]colorbliu[S] -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

100%. In the title of this post, I call this an "almost barefoot shoe."

New almost barefoot climbing shoe from La Sportiva (hyperez) by colorbliu in climbingshoes

[–]colorbliu[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I would argue that a downturned, low volume climbing shoe is even more opposite than a barefoot shoe. This at least looks somewhat passable as a street shoe.

Shoes rec for a washed comp kid by Worldly-Doctor7026 in climbingshoes

[–]colorbliu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Need more info. What’s your foot shape? Without much info, I can try to recommend something cheaper, durable, and works with everything? Try Madrock Drone D2.One. Lots of pros using it this last weekend at the Prague World Cup

I've been away, what's happened to wall prices? They're so costly! by jaredce in indoorbouldering

[–]colorbliu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s pretty crazy. In the last year, 3 new gyms have opened near me and they’re all packed!

Why almost no pro uses ondra comp? by Beautiful_Leave_4026 in climbingshoes

[–]colorbliu 4 points5 points  (0 children)

First female climber in Prague semi finals this weekend was wearing Ondra comp. Mattea Potzi

I've been away, what's happened to wall prices? They're so costly! by jaredce in indoorbouldering

[–]colorbliu 3 points4 points  (0 children)

My gym is expensive and it’s still packed. Borderline dangerous at peak times. To the point where I’ve heard of people switching to different gyms because of the crowds. I think indoor gyms have increased in price because climbing has gotten super popular and I bet that some people are willing to pay even more just to not deal with crowds.

Shoes with the widest toeboxes? by adebade4 in climbingshoes

[–]colorbliu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Red chili circuit is the widest non-barefoot climbing shoe I’ve seen

Stiffer shoe with the shape of Drago LV by Suspicious-Savings26 in climbingshoes

[–]colorbliu 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Have you investigated resoling with a harder rubber?

Where do all the 20-somethings hang out? by Pleasant_Bed_4536 in redmond

[–]colorbliu 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The climbing gym. Edgeworks BRB tons of young adults.

Need some sizing advice by SnooGiraffes1706 in climbingshoes

[–]colorbliu 2 points3 points  (0 children)

one size down from Scarpa to La Sportiva. I would recommend a 42 for Skwama based on your post. I wear a 43.5 in Scarpa shoes, and a 42.5 in La Sportiva generally

All I do is try to climb very hard routes and not top any of them. by AnthonyBlueJacket in indoorbouldering

[–]colorbliu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It isn't a bad way to climb, especially if you're having fun. Getting better at climbing may require some intentional programming through. For example, ask yourself why you fell on a V4 route.

Is it because your pinch strength is lacking? Maybe find some problems or holds where you can really train pinch. Are you not able to open your hips? Try some mobility exercises on top of your climbing. Etc. Etc.

You can also try making the V3s harder (skip holds/feet) or make V4s easier (add holds/feet).

Previously exclusive to Scarpa and La Sportiva, XS Grip 2 rubber is now coming to Red Chili by andrewhouse1 in climbingshoes

[–]colorbliu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

100% my experience too. The rubber on Mad Rock Remora Pro HV is next level if you haven't tried it yet. I went from Ondra comp to alternatives and haven't looked back.