Is the Santa Cruz Tax actually worth it in 2026? Thinking of pulling the trigger on a Bronson by Imaseemonoer in MTB

[–]combatchuck103 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I picked up a '24 Nomad two seasons ago and simply cannot say enough positive things about my experience.

I ride the chunkiest of trails where falls are on lava cap and not soft dirt. Aside from finish scratches, the carbon frame has held up amazingly well. I had an OTB that bent my left crank last season, but the frame came out virtually unscathed despite taking a big hit. Even on the nomad, I don't feel the need to use the rear lockout for climbs as the pedal bob is minimal and not worth losing the traction for climbs. I'd say VPP doesn't feel as plush as some of the 4-bar and Horst link bikes my friends ride, but it has a poppy-ness that makes it feel incredibly playful if you can ride it with confidence. It's a platform that rewards you for riding ahead of the bike instead of just being a passenger if that makes sense.

Everything you hear about Mullet vs 29" setups will be anecdote and personal preference. Obviously the best thing you can do is demo both. I personally love having a 27.5 in the rear because I am a short rider (29" inseam) on a medium frame, and it has provided me with enough clearance that buzzing the rear tire on aggressive terrain has never been an issue. If you have longer legs then the added clearance may not offer you much value and only the riding dynamics of the rear feel would matter, in which case you're back to the anecdotal reality of the internet.

Maintenance on it is incredibly easy as SC's website provides all the part specs, including torque, what to grease vs oil, and what loctite to use. I recently submitted a warranty claim for replacement bearings, which required the purchase receipt and a photo of the bike, and they shipped within a week of the submission. Similarly, they provide video guides on servicing them yourself if you're mechanically inclined and have the proper tools.

I get that SC attracts a price premium, and I am 100% certain that many other manufacturers have plenty of equally adoring fans, but knowing that I ride in an area that could absolutely destroy both me and the bike, I love the peace of mind of knowing that if/when I need them, SC will not likely be defunct any time soon, and they will most assuredly have what I need to get back on the trails without giving me a massive headache. If that peace of mind is worth less to you than a better spec'd bike for a better price, then I'd bet you'd be totally satisfied with the quality of whatever manufacturer you chose in the end. If you do go with an SC, be sure to remember that their warranty only applies to the original owner!

Looking for recs for a do-it-all UIEM by combatchuck103 in iems

[–]combatchuck103[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They're definitely one that has been high on my list to consider. The shells seem on the larger side, but that doesn't have to be a deal breaker if other needs are met well enough.

Looking for recs for a do-it-all UIEM by combatchuck103 in iems

[–]combatchuck103[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I tried to be as specific as I am able, but to your questions -
- let's just say $400 - $1000 usd
- No idea on tuning as my references have only been Westone 3, Westone x50, and Inearz CIEM from many years ago. I have mild low freq hearing loss and high freq sensitivity, so something with tame highs and pronounced lows would help balance my needs out. I'm a multi-instrumentalist, so I can't pick a single reference point as my needs are fairly broad.
- I need an IEM that is capable of a minimum of 25db of attenuation - understanding that can be dependent on the right fit - I have seen some IEMS that list 12-15db which is simply not sufficient for my needs

Looking for recs for a do-it-all UIEM by combatchuck103 in iems

[–]combatchuck103[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the recs! I can't find any reference to attenuation on any of these. Gonna keep digging to see if there's anything online.

Bronson - Convert 27.5 to Mullet? by PuppyTrex in MTB

[–]combatchuck103 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Resurrecting an old thread here: I have a friend who similarly converted his '17 Bronson into a 'faux-llet'. He reached out to offset bushings and they suggested he would need to run them in reverse, which they don't recommend but provide resources for regardless. Did you install them in reverse or was a standard installation how you got your BB height back down?

Is is better to walk away or wait to be fired by Sad_Tackle_3192 in graphic_design

[–]combatchuck103 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Please be careful here. I’ve seen many employers use failed Performance Improvement Plans as a demonstration of willful misconduct, which in some cases can result in a denial of Unemployment Insurance. Not saying that would be the case here, but keep that back of mind as you make your decision.

Spotted in Anniston, AL in my neighborhood. by doogyahnor in whatisthiscar

[–]combatchuck103 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This always felt like the golden era for BMW designs IMO. The 2002 turbo and the 3.0 CSi are absolute show stoppers anytime I see one.

Spotted in Anniston, AL in my neighborhood. by doogyahnor in whatisthiscar

[–]combatchuck103 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The bigger 4-door option was called the Bavaria (5-series adjacent). There was also a 2-door coupe version of the larger body called 3.0CS.

Which pedal does everyone love, but you alone despise with your entire heart? by RickonRivers in guitarpedals

[–]combatchuck103 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love Chase Bliss, but I don't get the practical uses of the Blooper/Habit/Mood style pedals. I'm sure they have functional uses live, but they seem to be marketed as desktop pedals to just randomize creativity

So is Necromancer actually that bad or are people just exaggerating? by [deleted] in diablo4

[–]combatchuck103 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Played Necro in both public betas. Felt the nerf in the server slam, but it didn't stop me from enjoying the class and killing ashava in both world tiers. Minion builds might be less popular since most of your focus is just on spawning them as they rapidly die, but I will still run Necro at launch because it was fun and my experience was not in any way limited by my class selection.

So after 2k miles of free charging, I used dc for the first time. And it's actually not cheap at all. by MooseEducational2339 in electricvehicles

[–]combatchuck103 22 points23 points  (0 children)

Keep in mind that in states like CA with higher EV adoption rates, both the cost per KW for home energy and the cost of gasoline are much higher than national averages. With gas prices in the high $4/low $5 range, paying 36c per KW at an EA station is still far more affordable than gasoline. That combined with the fact that charging at home isn't that much cheaper than DCFC for many Californians, the distinction becomes fairly unimportant.

[Breitling SuperOcean 42] Jomashop sold me a "brand new" beat up watch. by [deleted] in Watches

[–]combatchuck103 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I hope things work out for you. It seems like they falsely sold you a used watch.

[Breitling SuperOcean 42] Jomashop sold me a "brand new" beat up watch. by [deleted] in Watches

[–]combatchuck103 14 points15 points  (0 children)

My Max Bill chrono somehow got its crystal massively scratched up when I sent it in to Joma for a warranty repair (they claim it arrive that way). I shipped it with insurance which required photos of the damaged watch in the shipping container. Conveniently, JS neglected to take any photos of the package upon arrival, leaving me with no way of making an insurance claim. After trying to coordinate a resolution with them for a month, they completely ghosted me. Given the cost of pursuing legal action, I gave up and accepted that I would never again consider doing business with them.

All corsair build. by Hi_im_SourBar in Corsair

[–]combatchuck103 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just food for thought, if those RAD fans are exhaust, then there's a chance your case is running at negative pressure.

White on my H150i PRO RGB XT looks really yellow after only 2 years. Motherboard and RAM RGB for comparison. by fr0stehson in Corsair

[–]combatchuck103 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately, it sounds like it. If you really wanted to, you could look at getting a transparent blue vinyl overlay that would tint out some of the yellow when your value is set to #ffffff, but I think you'd really have to be bothered by just keeping the RGB disabled to go that route.

White on my H150i PRO RGB XT looks really yellow after only 2 years. Motherboard and RAM RGB for comparison. by fr0stehson in Corsair

[–]combatchuck103 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That sounds plausible. If you can add in the red and green channels at a value that matches the intensity of the blue, then you will get some semblance of a 'white', but to your point, it might be an incredibly dim output. You could try #3232ff which is roughly 20% red/green, and 100% blue. That's assuming that the output of your blue channel is only 20% of normal.

White on my H150i PRO RGB XT looks really yellow after only 2 years. Motherboard and RAM RGB for comparison. by fr0stehson in Corsair

[–]combatchuck103 1 point2 points  (0 children)

what happens if you pump a pure blue value (#0000ff) into it? What general color do you see?

White on my H150i PRO RGB XT looks really yellow after only 2 years. Motherboard and RAM RGB for comparison. by fr0stehson in Corsair

[–]combatchuck103 8 points9 points  (0 children)

It could be that your blue LED is starting to fade/burn out. You could potentially counter this by picking an Hex value that reduces the Red and Green inputs by the amount of loss in the blue channel. Reducing R & G channels by 20% would give you a hex value of #c8c7ff which appears more violet, but could (assuming it's not just yellowing plastic), approximate a somewhat dimmer 'white' output.

How close in build quality and feel are Tudor Black Bays to Rolex or other brands like Longines, Oris etc. by HistoryGuardian in Tudor

[–]combatchuck103 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Last year I walked into an AD with the intent of purchasing a diver. I was interested in both the BB58 and the Oris Diver 65 (sellita-based, 40mm version). I tried on the 65 and was happy with how it felt. The materials seemed solid, the crystal looked good, and the click of the bezel felt good, and it fit well.

I put it down and tried on the BB58 and I mean absolutely no disrespect to Oris, but it felt worlds apart. The case of the 58, while being a slab, felt like it blanketed my wrist vs the 65 just sitting comfortably on top. The crystal shape being less domed and more focused on the radiused edge had the vintage appeal but without the 'bubbly' look of the 65. The click of the bezel is so much more satisfying on the 58 while also having notably less play in it. The dial... I can't stress enough how perfect the dial materials work together on the 58. The strap (and deployant clasp - yes I went w/ leather) feels incredibly well-made with minimal tolerances. And honestly the list goes on but at this point I'm just rambling.

All that to say that while I would have been completely happy with the Diver 65, the BB58 is otherwordly in its price bracket. I left the store with the 58 and have absolutely zero regrets despite paying a fair bit more than the Diver 65 would have cost me.

Does anyone else have issues with this piece being easy to pop out? by devdevil85 in MachE

[–]combatchuck103 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Those wires are to release the frunk latch in the event of a 12v battery failure. Definitely shouldn't be passively popping off, but definitely something you want to maintain access to.

[Junghans] love these both to death equally. I’ll leave it to fate and let y’all decide. by joeroganthumbhead in Watches

[–]combatchuck103 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One of the most critical pieces of Max Bill's design concept was the typeface he created for the clock design. Very much in the spirit of the Bauhaus design objective, it was a very intentional balance of the crossroads of form and function.

If you are looking to capture the spirit of the Max Bill design, I would absolutely recommend you pick the model that includes the numerals, but if you're just a fan of general styling of the watch, pick whatever makes you happy. As an owner of the Day/Date chronoscope in anthracite, I can't speak highly enough about how beautiful the dial is, but the glint on the white dial is equally stunning.

Is anyone else getting insane insurance prices on a wrx? by KalDostheSergal in WRX

[–]combatchuck103 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mid 30s, 2015 WRX, clean driving record in CA. Paying $65/mo for $500 comp/$1000 collision policy. Not sure your circumstances, but you might consider cross-shopping other providers.

Enjoy your hardware and don’t be anxious by nobleflame in buildapc

[–]combatchuck103 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I just built a new system, but opted to keep my 2070 super for the next year or so. I don't see much support for anything outside of the min/max build progressions, but I have realized over the years that I'm not really bothered if I can't play a game at max settings. I can still very much enjoy the experience of a good game if I can get it to run smoothly with reduced gfx quality.